Do you have any pictures of this exhaust out side of the car? A parts list would also be great. I need to update my exhaust and I have some new exhaust horns but I need mufflers and should also install some high flow cats as well.
GT vs. notchback, I'm all about the fastbacks, but there is something profoundly awesome about the chopped notchback profile versus chopped fastbacks. If I had a choptop, I'm fairly certain I'd want a notchie.
Not huge on the lamps, but a great, aggressive-looking car all-together.
Do you have any pictures of this exhaust out side of the car? A parts list would also be great. I need to update my exhaust and I have some new exhaust horns but I need mufflers and should also install some high flow cats as well.
This is a 2.5" exhaust system. Made out of mandrel bent pipes that we fit & weld together on the car. Then we usually take it off & finish the welding & send them out for Ceramic coating. This exhaust does require that the bottom part of the trunk area be removed. We've done a similar exhaust system that is a bit louder (due to different mufflers) & doesn't require removing any of the trunk area. I can show you pics of that too.
On this car, I didn't take a lot of pics of the exhaust because we've done this exhaust several times & some of those swaps were documented better.
Here are some pics from this car, before the exhaust was coated (you can see where it was pieced together)
This is the only pic. I have of the exhaust off the car, when it was boxed up to go to coating.
Here is a real similar exhaust we did for Jim Albright's car earlier this year.
These are the parts heading out for coating....
Back from coating & back on the car.
And here is another similar exhaust we did last year..... Note: this one has an equalizer pipe between the left & right side pipes.
The parts list we needed to build the exhaust for the car that we have here now is:
GOAC 8822 Flex Coupling 2.5 (2) HED-12081 120* Mandrel Bend 2.5 Pipe (2 Req) MPE-59926 Spun Cat (2) SUM621008 'J' Bend Mandrel Pipe 2.5' (3 req) SUM621003 'U' Bend Mandrel Pipe 2.5' (1 req) WAHW 33226 2.5' Manderel clamps (4) WLK-41438 45* 2.5' Elbow (1 Req) WAD1-17715 Thrush Mufflers (2 Req) Plus whatever tips you want to use.
Thank you Archie I'm going to remove the bottom of my trunk, its not a big deal as its just a junk magnet. I have a true duel 2 1/2 system now but its very loud and the muffler is too low on the front bank. I have a 2 1/4 system going into a 3 inch muffler but not sure if I want to go that way. The tips I have are from a Corvette, they are sitting on my bench waiting for me to do something with. I have a lot of SS 2 1/2 tub already just wondering what the cat part numbers were as they look like they fit really well.
It always helps to see it installed on another car first.
Here is a picture of the exhaust set up on the LS3 E-Rod. Are those two catalytic converters per side? If not what is the other can? It also has holes for two O2 sensors per side. What are the two O2 sensors for?
[This message has been edited by gunnerdd972 (edited 01-11-2011).]
Here is a picture of the exhaust set up on the LS3 E-Rod. Are those two catalytic converters per side? If not what is the other can? It also has holes for two O2 sensors per side. What are the two O2 sensors for?
Yes it has 2 cat's per side & 2 o2 sensors per side.
According to our research, the pipes can be modified. The cats & o2 sensors have to say the same distances & order from the exhaust manifold outlet.
So far, I haven't got any pics of the exhaust from my E-Rod customers yet.
Do you have any pictures of this exhaust out side of the car? A parts list would also be great. I need to update my exhaust and I have some new exhaust horns but I need mufflers and should also install some high flow cats as well.
Here are some pictures of a completed LS3 exhaust off of the car.
That does look pretty cool. What is that "fan-looking" thing? Also, pretty sure that pic is a C5 or later. The C4's headlight door was fully encapsulated in the perimeter o the hood (clam-shell hood on C4 so there would be no fender line and the headlight would not cross onto the line of the facia).
That is interesting. What is the little fan looking thing for? Also, I'm pretty sure that pic is a C5 or later; the C4 headlight door is completely within the perimeter of the hood (not crossing onto the front facia).
That does look pretty cool. What is that "fan-looking" thing? Also, pretty sure that pic is a C5 or later. The C4's headlight door was fully encapsulated in the perimeter o the hood (clam-shell hood on C4 so there would be no fender line and the headlight would not cross onto the line of the facia).
That is interesting. What is the little fan looking thing for? Also, I'm pretty sure that pic is a C5 or later; the C4 headlight door is completely within the perimeter of the hood (not crossing onto the front facia).
Im sure the Fan is for cooling down the lights, they may be HID, so they would get hot. Also I beleive your right about them not being C4's, I googled C4 and this is what came up,but this is for sure a good idea.
While some have spent years trying to complete a LS 6 speed swap, we roll ot the 37th. LS swap today. 27 of them have been using the 6 speed.
This one is an LS3 with the G6 6 speed.
It's a low mileage '88 Notchie & had a 5 speed with a 4 banger.....
Archie
Congrats Archie, Rob and Chris. That ends the two that were in the shop when mine arrived. Any more in the hopper or is the Winter WX a bad time for folks to head to Chicago? If you don't have any to work on, now you get some time to work on that GT-40 or the Widebody Chopped Coupe. I love that coupe.
Archie, I see you've done another headlamp fabrication. Im wondering if your hesitation or reluctance to take on the C5 headlights is still there, or if with the time and experience you have may have some new insight to finally do the conversion. Have you thought about why or why not. Thanks!
Archie, I see you've done another headlamp fabrication. Im wondering if your hesitation or reluctance to take on the C5 headlights is still there, or if with the time and experience you have may have some new insight to finally do the conversion. Have you thought about why or why not. Thanks!
We have already taken on the C5 lights like you show.
I had a customer one time who photoshopped a set of those headlights into a Fiero & thought that because he could photoshop it in that we should be able to install it without pain. It was almost impossible to convince him that there was a lot of difference between doing a 2 dimensional photoshop & building a 3 dimensional car.
When we did the NSX-R headlights in Troy’s car, the lights were almost flat left to right. We made a pocket to fit it into & it looked good. But if you look at a ‘Vette nose in the area where the headlight sits & compare it to the headlight area on a Fiero.
Go to Google images & search for C5…. Find a good profile shot & a good nose shot. Look at the headlight door. Notice how much it drops in elevation from the back of the door to the front of the door. Compare that to the Fiero. Does the Fiero door drop off as much in elevation as the ‘Vette? Do the same thing on the inside vs outside edges on the “Vette compared to the Fiero.
That type of headlight has too much contour left to right & corner to corner to work in a Fiero nose. We determined that mounting it & getting it pointed in the right direction would require a total redesign of the hood, nose & front fender. Or we would have had to make a pocket to sit it in. The pocket would have looked like a home made “dust pan”. It would have had almost vertical walls on both sides & across the back & a little in the front.
ON the NSX-R lights we were able to use the back edge & inside edge of the light right up to the Fiero hood. We built a little pocket in the front bumper to fit the front edge of the light & we were able to build a nice smooth transition from the top of the fender to the outside edge of the light. All of this made the light look like it was made for the Fiero.
I tried to explain this to the customer, in several Emails & a couple of phone calls, but he just wasn’t getting the 3-D concept I was trying to relay.
This is only part of what I had to Email him before he understood what I was talking about.
Initially, we sat the headlight on the car just like it was photoshopped.
If you look closely, you can see that the lenses in the lights are not vertical, they are pointed up at about 15 degrees. When we turned on the lights to test against the wall about 20' away the beam was about 10 feet above level. (sorry didn't get a pic of that)
Then did a little cutting to get the light down into the car a little bit & held the back of the light up a little to try to bring the beam down. That brought the beam down to level. Notice how high the back of the light is being held & notice how deep the front of the light already is.
We would have needed to lower this light straight down into the car 3" or more to maintain the light level & to get the back end of the light flush with the hood.
That means that the "tray" in the bumper in front of the headlight would have looked like the end of a water trough in the front of the nose. It would have extended to just above the parking light opening & interfered with the grill opening.
This information didn't register with the customer. He had put those headlights in via photoshop in just a few minutes & wasn't understanding the difference. I explained to him to Google C5 just Like above but that didn't work either.
So I sat up a way to measure datapoints on the car on the lift.
On a 2" grid, I came up with datapoints on each cross.
Then I set up a 2" grid on the edges of the light & we sat it on the table with shims & adjusted the shims to level the light. Then took "Z" readings around the light.
In these pics, considering that the light is at the right attitude you can see how the contour of the C5 hood, in the area of the light door, is no where near the contour of the Fiero.
Are we hesitat or reluctant to take on the C5 headlights, not at all.
I can't say it can't be done. But I will say, I'm not doing it & it will be ugly as heck unless you don't mind the headlights pointed at the trees.
Archie, Great article, I can see and understand why it would not really look good, as well as take a lot of fabrication. I am sure it would be less expensive, easier, and quicker, to design custom flush mounts . Thanks for the post and explanation!
Thank you Archie I'm going to remove the bottom of my trunk, its not a big deal as its just a junk magnet. I have a true duel 2 1/2 system now but its very loud and the muffler is too low on the front bank. I have a 2 1/4 system going into a 3 inch muffler but not sure if I want to go that way. The tips I have are from a Corvette, they are sitting on my bench waiting for me to do something with. I have a lot of SS 2 1/2 tub already just wondering what the cat part numbers were as they look like they fit really well.
It always helps to see it installed on another car first.
I just noticed that you asked for the Cat pn's. I hope it's not too late.
I just noticed that you asked for the Cat pn's. I hope it's not too late.
They are Magnaflow MPE-59926.
Archie
LOL no not too late. Putting numbers together but I like to think a long time before I start my work. I like to have a final plan in my head before I spend money and start cutting. Thanks again Archie.
For the last several weeks in between other projects we've been working on my notchie ChopTop & my GT 40.
We put Big Brakes on it, fuels lines, tank, front mount battery & a bunch of other stuff.
We built a 377 c.i. SBC to put in it. Initially it's carburated until we can get some vacuum readings off of it..... then later it'll get Injection.
On the GT 40 we custom made some door handles. Fitted & installed the front & rear clip latches & gas struts. Plus got a lot of the bodywork finish fitted.
We finished up a lot of welding on the chassis. Dissassembled the whole front suspension to send out for powdercoating. Ground a lot of the welds on the Chassis & have it just about ready to go out for a complete chassis powdercoating, like we did to the Miura.
Built the exhaust system & test drove the ChopTop a little.
I can say from experiance what Archie says is true, I myself played with this light on a car. the Corvette has way more drop in the front and way more shape than the flat fiero front. it did not take long to give up the idea. they are cool lights but would look like crap on a fiero unless you grafted a corvette frontend on to the fiero somehow. this would give you all the curves but it would be a ton of work and the look would not flow with the rest of the flat car. D.
I can say from experiance what Archie says is true, I myself played with this light on a car. the Corvette has way more drop in the front and way more shape than the flat fiero front. it did not take long to give up the idea. they are cool lights but would look like crap on a fiero unless you grafted a corvette frontend on to the fiero somehow. this would give you all the curves but it would be a ton of work and the look would not flow with the rest of the flat car. D.
Nice job on the 2 cars, I can't wait to see the notchie widebody in person.
How much do the NSX headlights cost? If you don't mind me asking?
The Riv
$2000.00+ for the set and the only place you will find them is at the dealer. In the past three years only one used damaged set made it to eBay and sold for 1000.00 and then you would still need about 350.00 in parts from the dealer to make them work. Curly has been looking for a set. One of Archies past customers imported a set of knock offs but the quality was very poor and still needed all of the electronics for it. http://www.acuraoemparts.co...ch=Part&ListAll=Part
[This message has been edited by troyboy (edited 01-30-2011).]
When I first started doing Fiero stuff full time, I worked out of my home until 1989 Then I moved by shop (not my home) to Mishawaka, IN from 1991 into 1996 We then relocated to the Chicago area & i had my shop in Barrington, IL into 2005 Then I moved my shop to Machesney Park, IL 7 I've worked from there until now. Now we're moving the shop a few miles South to Loves Park, IL
As of the 1st of the month, my new shop address will be: 5328 Foresthills Ct. Loves Park, IL 61111
We intend to keep all the same phone numbers just moving to a smaller more managable shop.
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