Why not go with a longer spring and cut the whole perch off? Longer spring would give less of a chance of it binding would it not?
In #022 case--you can't due to the off-set if the morbidly fat rears. Removal of the perch (thus longer spring) would interfere with the inner rim/tire thus he needs a 8" spring.
quote
Originally posted by Archie:
I've been asked about wheel sizes that would fit with the WideBody.
This new WideBody that we're doing for the back 2/3rds of the Fiero GT is 73.75" wide at the centerline of the rear wheel. The Stock Fiero Gt body is 68.375" wide. So the WideBody is 5.375" wider than stock, which is 2.69" wider per side.
According to the calculations I've made on the rear wheels for chopper #20 the Wheel is 11" wide & has a 11mm positive off-set. The car we are working on right now has 8" long Coil-Overs & there is plenty of clearance to the spring & perch.
Curley's car has 10" coil-overs & he has a lot less clearance to the spring (less than 1/2") with these same wheels.
As you can see Curley's wheel is about 3/8" inside the top of the rear wheel opening.
Troy's car has wheels that are 12" wide & has a 7mm positive offset & has an 8" coilover. In prevoius fittings Troy's wheels would not Curley's car because the rim touched the 10" coilovers.
IMHO, Troy's wheels would fit this WideBody with the wheel sticking out all the way to the upper lip of the wheel well opening & yet still clearing the 8" coil-over.
Note: this information is for '84 thru '87 Fieros only.
my niece was in town and wanted to go for a cruse down to the beach in the chotop
when we arrived at the beach parking lot there was a group of guys with beautiful GTOs that found the choptop fascinating and invited me to a weekly car show
hay Archie I fit in the choptop a little better now
[This message has been edited by troyboy (edited 05-31-2010).]
when we arrived at the beach parking lot there was a group of guys with beautiful GTOs that found the choptop fascinating and invited me to a weekly car show
Sweet! What a great surprise to see picks of #022 after a three day vacation and a crowd of people enthusiastically the chopper! Look at the guy looking under the car.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-01-2010).]
Hey Archie is this hot or not? was out for a ride on a hot day
I'm thinking about installing a 160 thermostat
That's not bad, i would think it to be about normal for that engine...... If I remember correctly The ECM turns the rad fan on at about 205 to 208 & shuts it off at about 195. So a thermostat change wouldn't make a difference, other than taking a little longer to get up to operating temp..
Glad to see that you're keeping an eye on the gages...... What has that gage read on previous drives?
Archie
[This message has been edited by Archie (edited 06-21-2010).]
That's not bad, i would think it to be about normal for that engine...... If I remember correctly The ECM turns the rad fan on at about 205 to 208 & shuts it off at about 195. So a thermostat change wouldn't make a difference, other than taking a little longer to get up to operating temp..
Glad to see that you're keeping an eye on the gages...... What has that gage read on previous drives?
Archie
In the early to late spring it was running at about 180. I thought the fan was using a fan switch set to 180, if not can the ECM be set to a lower temp.
In the early to late spring it was running at about 180. I thought the fan was using a fan switch set to 180, if not can the ECM be set to a lower temp.
My Vette would run 210 all the time, after changing the heads and fixing the thermostat it runs 190. If it keeps creeping up you may have a bad thermostat. I run a small hole in all of mine to keep air pockets from forming under them, they will take longer to open if there is an air pocket.
In the early to late spring it was running at about 180. I thought the fan was using a fan switch set to 180, if not can the ECM be set to a lower temp.
The thermostat in the car is a 195. The ECM is controling the fan and turning it on at about 208+/- & turning it off at around 195.
You'll also remember that we wired in a temp sensor that lights up an idiot light on the dash at about 228 if it ever gets there.
You can put in a 180 thermostat. (Remember the thermostat housing block is made for a normal SBC thermostat that you can get anywhere.) You'll need to top of the water a little when you replace the thermostat.
You can also get the ECM on/off points reprogramed (I'll detail that in a minute) but I'd do the thermostat first.
After you put in the 180 'stat. test it for a few times to see if you like it.
Anyone who has LS2 Edit or a Tech II scanner (& knows hot to use it) can reprogram the Temps that the ECM turns the fan on & off. I'm sure some of the techs you work with have access the equipment & ability to do this.
Also, you can have even more fun if you pick up a handheld scanner. With it you can monitor exactly what your engine is doing. Like fan commands, open/closed loop, etc. The ECM has it's own water temp sending unit & you can monitor it to compare accuracy to the gage in the dash. The good thing is that you cannot make changes to the ECM program with one of these types of scanners. Here is an example of a scanner that you can monitor basic data of your ECM with.
Changing the thermostat should be easy but not on a LS7 in a Fiero. First the back hex screw is under the rear glass area as you can see in the above pic. After a few busted knuckles and a now lost forever 8mm hex socket i was able to remove the screw and the195 thermostat
old 195 on the left and the new 160 on the right
160 installed
now for the nightmare put the thermostat housing back on and play with my friend "rear bolt" ......more busted knuckles and lost another 8mm hex socket ... I became too pissed after an hour and with daylight gone I just pushed the car back into the garage....
hopefully that isnt too low of a temp to allow it to run its max power and effeciently and in closed loop..it seems a bit low ..I would want it to run at least 180
hopefully that isnt too low of a temp to allow it to run its max power and effeciently and in closed loop..it seems a bit low ..I would want it to run at least 180
I'm sure she will run at least 180 on the road, that temp was just at idle after 20 min. The fan turns on at 180, Archie you must have changed the setting in the ECM to run cooler and in Fiero that's a good thing I think it was just the 195 stat throwing it off.Tomorrow it's going to be in the high 80's to low 90's so it's going to be a perfect day to test it out. I would rather run a little cool rather than a little hot in a car that is driven only in the summer. I talked to alot of the corvette boys with the LS7 and they recommended the 160 stat.
My solution to cooling is similar to yours, running the following:
Champion 3 core Aluminum Radiator, fan set at 180 Thermostat flange, no guts Corvette short shaft water pump 4 Coolant lines coming off heads 3 Bottles of Redline Water Wetter in coolant (65 % glycol, freeze point -60) Engine Oil Cooler w/fan, fan set at 180 ( 7 qt. oil pan ), located at quarter side scoop drivers side, modified wheelhouse liner for air exhaust vent.
It's pretty consistent at 170 to 185 even on hot 90 degree days, If I play hard with it, it will jump to peak at 200-210 then back down fairly quick with moderate driving.
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 06-26-2010).]
Now time to tackle the next problem..... a leaky Power Steering reservoir that leaks right on top of my belts and causes belt squeal and slippage. I knew something was wrong when the alternator was not charging properly, the AC was not getting cold and all the sounds of chirping birds coming from my engine bay.
The top just sits on top of the housing and seals loosely with a o ring, first I was going to seal it with a little gasket maker but it seems to have a small vent hole that connects to the large center hole in the top, that vent hole exits above the o ring and could be the cause of the leak and if the reservoir needs to breath the gasket maker would prevent that. when the car is running the fluid level rises and could be seeping up through that hole. Archie is looking into this for me and is calling $treet and performance (the manufacturer) for a solution and to expre$$ my di$may.
[This message has been edited by troyboy (edited 06-26-2010).]
Do not buy a handheld. Waste of money in the long run for an LS motor. Do yourself a favor and buy HPtuners or go to your local dyno and purchase an hp tuner's slot. If you have it yourself tuning will be alot easier on you vs having to take it in to someone else to do.
Archie is looking into this for me and is calling $treet and performance (the manufacturer) for a solution and to expre$$ my di$may.
With all the Custom & aftermarket parts on this car, it can be expected that 1 or 2 of them is not going to be perfect from the get go.
I talked to Mark today & told him that I felt the "O" ring wasn't tight enough in the bore of the reservoir & that it needed to be tighter. Anyway, he is going to send you a new cap today (I gave him your addy). He also said that they have found that if the reservoir is too full it will leave a mist on the outside of the reservoir. So he thinks that it could be a little overfull. When I bought the P.S. reservoir there were no instructions telling us what the fliud level should be in it. Mark tells me that it should be 1/3 to 1/2 full. Because we didn't have any info on how full it should be, it's possible that we have too much fluid in it.
He asked that you check the fluid level with a pencil or a rod. put the rod all the way thru the middle to the bottom. measure the total length of the rod at the top lip of the reservoir & then measure the fluid level & see if it's 1/3 to 1/2 full.
If the reservoir is a little too full, I'd suggest that you use a clean shop to stick down into it to absorb some of the fluid. Or you could use a baster to suck some of it out of there. That will be a lot easier than draining it & taking a chance of introducing air into the system.
Thanks Archie, and here are some past pics of the "run way" and cool down ( I think Archie is worried about my "lead foot")
as you can see if you time it right, all you have is open straight road and no traffic for 20+ miles with beach on one side and the bay on the other side. On a test run I loop it 2x Before I hit the beach to let her cool down while I stroll the beach and boardwalk. I couldn't take pics on this run as I had to keep both hands on the wheel .
PS. the K40 works great
[This message has been edited by troyboy (edited 06-28-2010).]
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the chopper! Look at the guy looking under the car.
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