Today I trimmed some ugly fat from the engine wiring harness.
That's mostly A/C related wiring. But I also removed the MAP sensor wiring, because the MegaSquirt has a built-in MAP sensor. I also deleted the original O2 sensor wiring, since I have a stand-alone wideband setup.
And speaking of ugly fat...
The charcoal canister and all associated vacuum lines also went bye-bye. Now this is the part where I say "Don't try this at home". If the car was still a daily driver, I would have kept the charcoal canister. But it's basically just a toy now. Since my Fiero is an '87 model, it has the expansion tank in the passenger wheel well. So I shouldn't have to worry about fuel spilling out the vent line. I installed a short piece of vacuum hose, with a little filter on the end, where the charcoal canister line used to connect to the expansion tank. So the fuel tank can still vent. The little filter keeps crud (and bugs) out of the tank.
And last but not least, I decided to move the fuel pump relay into the cabin. The main goal here is to get the relay out of the elements. There are a couple extra relays, for possible future upgrades.
That's it for today. Hopefully some goodies will arrive tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed!
Got a pic of that little filter for the tank vent? That's a great idea for eliminating the evap canister. On my to-do list getting this thing back together.
I didn't think to snap a photo. But it's a small engine (i.e. lawnmower) fuel filter. I grabbed it off the shelf at a local auto parts store for less than 5 bucks. Just FYI, the vent line for the fuel expansion tank is 1/4" ID.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 02-12-2018).]
I cleaned off the rust, painted them with VHT exhaust paint, and wrapped them with "lava rock" header wrap. I've never used it before, but it's supposed to be better than the standard fiberglass wrap. I guess time will tell. But it does look cool.
Also, I was not very impressed with the locking ties that I bought. They're basically like zip-ties, but made of stainless steel. There's a special tool that you use to tighten them. I bought that tool, and made sure I used it properly. But still, I ended up ruining several of the locking ties. They're really flimsy. Next time around, I think I'll use hose clamps.
I didn't think to snap a photo. But it's a small engine (i.e. lawnmower) fuel filter. I grabbed it off the shelf at a local auto parts store for less than 5 bucks. Just FYI, the vent line for the fuel expansion tank is 1/4" ID.
Awesome thank you for the tip. Probably just pick one up from Rock Auto. BTW, would you have the part number for the Cloyes double roller timing set? Would be great insurance for this cammed 2.8 I'm going to use. TIA!
Unfortunately, the machine shop is taking their time with my cylinder heads. So I have to find things to do until they're ready.
In the meantime, I installed a brake light switch on the clutch pedal, for use with the 2-step rev limiter.
The Falconer intake and a homemade dual plenum setup are also going to be part of this build. Since I'm waiting on the heads, I might as well do some work on that. I had actually started on the plenums some time ago, but shelved the project (both literally and figuratively).
Before shelving the project, I made all the velocity stacks and started on the plenums. I had to make some new velocity stacks, because the original ones are too big to use with the dual plenum setup. In the photo below, the new ones are in the foreground. The originals are in the background. The velocity stacks are made from aluminum tubing, with some creative use of a hydraulic press.
The plenums will be made from half of a square tube combined with half of a round tube, to make a D shape. See photo below.
Below is a mock-up of the new velocity stacks with one of the plenum pieces.
That's it for now. Let's hope the heads are ready soon.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 02-18-2018).]
Unfortunately, the machine shop is taking their time with my cylinder heads. So I have to find things to do until they're ready.
In the meantime, I installed a brake light switch on the clutch pedal, for use with the 2-step rev limiter.
The Falconer intake and a homemade dual plenum setup are also going to be part of this build. Since I'm waiting on the heads, I might as well do some work on that. I had actually started on the plenums some time ago, but shelved the project (both literally and figuratively).
Before shelving the project, I made all the velocity stacks and started on the plenums. I had to make some new velocity stacks, because the original ones are too big to use with the dual plenum setup. In the photo below, the new ones are in the foreground. The originals are in the background. The velocity stacks are made from aluminum tubing, with some creative use of a hydraulic press.
The plenums will be made from half of a square tube combined with half of a round tube, to make a D shape. See photo below.
Below is a mock-up of the new velocity stacks with one of the plenum pieces.
That's it for now. Let's hope the heads are ready soon.
Looks nice! Those home made Velocity stacks will move the powerband a couple of RPMs upwards and the low end will suffer a bit. What's your final gear ratio?
I designed the plenums and velocity stacks using Helmholtz Resonator equations. The entire "intake package" should improve volumetric efficiency in the 5000-6000 RPM range. That should help with the upper RPM breathing, which we all know is a weak point of the iron heads.
I have a PDF file with some pretty useful information for designing intake manifolds and plenums (single plenums, dual plenums, and ITBs). There's a lot of math involved. But if you're interested, I can give you a copy.
Also, I picked up the cylinder heads today. So I'll be assembling and (hopefully) installing those tomorrow.
I designed the plenums and velocity stacks using Helmholtz Resonator equations. The entire "intake package" should improve volumetric efficiency in the 5000-6000 RPM range. That should help with the upper RPM breathing, which we all know is a weak point of the iron heads.
I have a PDF file with some pretty useful information for designing intake manifolds and plenums (single plenums, dual plenums, and ITBs). There's a lot of math involved. But if you're interested, I can give you a copy.
Also, I picked up the cylinder heads today. So I'll be assembling and (hopefully) installing those tomorrow.
Today, I installed the heads. Here's one last look at the Cometic MLS head gaskets, before the heads go on:
Also, the valves were back-cut and swirl polished. The machine shop also did a 3-angle valve job.
I tried to get some photos of the port work, but they didn't turn out very well. Here's the only photo that turned out halfway decent:
As you can see, I did some bowl blending. The exhaust valve bowls were pretty terrible... lots of sharp edges and some "humps" protruding into the bowls. I had to spend a lot of time on them. I also widened the floors on the exhaust ports. And I carried that all the way out to the end of the port. So now they're almost D shaped. On the intakes, I sharpened the vanes (to make them more aerodynamic) and slimmed down the huge divider that leads up to the valve guide boss. I also trimmed down the valve guide bosses, because they were sticking way out into the airflow path.
And last but not least, there was casting flash inside the combustion chambers! I couldn't believe it. It was all around the valve seats. Those bits of casting flash are possible hot-spots which could cause detonation. Plus they partially obstruct airflow around the valves. So I got rid of it all. But I didn't feel like polishing the chambers. So I left it at that. It's still an improvement.
Anyway, that's it for now. See ya next time!
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 02-21-2018).]
Those roller rockers look so nice. It's a shame they'll be hidden under a piece of sheet-metal.
I checked the installed height on the valve springs, and it was about 1.750", which is perfect. With the valves fully open, the spring height is just over 1.200", which matches the cam specs. And the springs are nowhere near coil bind at full valve lift. BTW, those tick marks on the roller rockers are from when I set (and then double-checked) the valve lash. I marked each one with a Sharpie marker after adjusting it, to avoid confusion. Naturally, I had to turn the engine by hand several times during that process. If there were any interference issues, they would have been evident.
A project like this involves dealing with lots of minor details. For example, the engine oil dipstick interfered with the new intake. So I had to "massage" the dipstick tube a bit.
Also, the base of the thermostat housing ever-so-slightly interfered with one of the intake ports. Yes, the Falconer intake ports are that big. So I had to trim it just a tiny bit. I didn't get a photo of that.
There are lots of other details to be dealt with as well, for example relocating the ignition brick (because it interferes with the new intake), relocating some of the engine sensors and their wiring, fabricating vacuum lines, fabricating a fueling system, fabricating a throttle cable bracket, etc etc. Long story short, I'm down to the last 20% of the project, which causes 80% of the headaches.
Anyway, that's it for now. Later!
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 02-22-2018).]
Those roller rockers look so nice. It's a shame they'll be hidden under a piece of sheet-metal.
I checked the installed height on the valve springs, and it was about 1.750", which is perfect. With the valves fully open, the spring height is just over 1.200", which matches the cam specs. And the springs are nowhere near coil bind at full valve lift. BTW, those tick marks on the roller rockers are from when I set (and then double-checked) the valve lash. I marked each one with a Sharpie marker after adjusting it, to avoid confusion. Naturally, I had to turn the engine by hand several times during that process. If there were any interference issues, they would have been evident.
A project like this involves dealing with lots of minor details. For example, the engine oil dipstick interfered with the new intake. So I had to "massage" the dipstick tube a bit.
I'm down to the last 20% of the project, which causes 80% of the headaches.
Lately I've been playing the "wait for shipping" game. But despite that, I was able to install the fuel pressure regulator and mock-up some of the fuel lines. I decided to run the fuel rails returnless, to reduce clutter. There's still a return line, but it only goes to the regulator.
I also was able to tackle most of the vacuum routing. I was originally going to make a balance tube between the plenums and use that for vacuum signal. But the previous owner of this intake already made something to act as a vacuum manifold, with a vacuum line going to each intake runner. He just didn't do a very good job of it. So I tweaked it a bit.
The twin throttle body setup came from a Chrysler V6, which has the idle control built into the manifold. So the throttle bodies have no provision for idle control. I decided to use a F.A.S.T. idle air adapter, which conveniently uses GM idle air valves. I mounted it on top of the vacuum manifold, to distribute idle air to each cylinder.
The vacuum lines for the MAP sensor and fuel pressure regulator will NOT attach to that vacuum manifold. Instead, they'll attach to vacuum ports on the throttle bodies (there's one on each throttle body). I did this for two reasons. First of all, the throttle body vacuum ports are literally right behind the throttle plates. This means the MAP and FPR will have instant feedback. Second of all, since they're physically separated from the other vacuum stuff, their vacuum signal won't be affected by the idle valve or the brake booster.
And just for giggles, here's a top-down look at the engine. That intake is Xbox huge, LOL!!!
The plenums aren't finished yet. But technically, there's no reason why the engine has to stay on the floor. As the Roadkill guys would say, "it's time to throw this garbage back in the car".
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 03-01-2018).]
The engine is in the car, but the install isn't finished. More waiting on shipping...
Anyway, here's some filler material.
Whenever you try something new, you often make mistakes. This was the case when I was making the velocity stacks for the new intake plenums. Below is a photo of two "failed" velocity stacks.
The velocity stacks are made from aluminum tubing. And they need to be 2" inside diameter. But the only aluminum tubing I could find was 2" outside diameter. So I had to expand the 2" OD tubing. I annealed the tubing with a torch, to make it more malleable. Then I used an exhaust pipe expander to enlarge it. Apparently, I didn't anneal one of the pieces properly. So it split in half while I was enlarging it.
Also, I don't have the equipment (or experience) to weld aluminum. So I'm brazing it instead. While I was brazing one of the velocity stacks into the plenum base, I got careless with the torch and burned a hole through it.
Fun stuff!
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 03-06-2018).]
For the last week or so, I've been playing "mail order tag"... buy some parts, go to install them, realize more parts are needed, etc. Pretty tedious stuff. Plus, I have to "play Tetris" a bit to make things fit. That said, I did get the fuel system sorted out. And I reinstalled the oil cooler, with new lines. I had to make new lines to clear the fuel pressure regulator. See photo below.
After installing the engine in the car, I noticed another issue. The firewall side plenum won't fit in the car! There isn't enough space between the intake manifold and the firewall. Right about now, I'm wishing it was a tunnel ram intake. This intake eats up a lot of space in the engine bay.
I think I have a solution for that, but it involves more Tetris. More on that later.
OK, got the plenum to fit. To make room, I had to:
1) Shorten the velocity stacks by one inch 2) Relocate the engine oil dipstick (again) 3) Perform some hackery on the PCV system 4) Flip the throttle bodies upside-down
I'm also going to have to shorten the linkage between the throttle bodies, since they're about 2" closer to each other now. And I'll need to extend the throttle cable, because the throttle bellcrank is now on the trunk side plenum. Yay...
OK, got the throttle linkage and cable handled. I "cheated" by running the throttle cable through the middle of the intake. That allows the cable to reach with no modifications. I added a tab to the linkage to attach the cable.
This also leaves more room on the trunk wall to mount the ignition brick. WIN / WIN!
The ignition system is installed. I turned the ICM mounting bracket around 180 degrees, made a few minor mods to it, and it dropped right in. The spark plug wires were able to reach all the plugs, too.
I also refilled the coolant and primed the oil system. I just need to re-install the vacuum stuff and prime the fuel system, and the engine should be ready to run.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 03-24-2018).]
I thought I was going to run the engine today... but the engine had other ideas.
The fuel rails are not sealing to the injectors. I have several sets of injectors, so I had plenty of O-rings to try out (some of which are new). It made no difference. So I removed the rails, measured the injector holes, and compared them to a Fiero fuel rail. The holes in the Falconer fuel rails are about 0.015 - 0.020" oversize. I'll have to look for some slightly bigger O-rings.
Good news: the bigger o-rings worked. I also had to replace the radiator fan relay, chase down a couple leaks, and do a lot of tuning. Just getting it to start and idle without stalling took several days. The engine basically wanted more of everything... more spark timing, more fuel, more air. I had to double the idle air values, just to keep it from dying immediately on start-up. And the VE table had to be increased across the board.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 04-29-2018).]
Awesome Mike!! You'll have to find a "long" piece of highway and let it rip and you'll find out what that cam can do at the top end! Post some video if it revving! I'd like to hear it, wait! I'll be going to FL in a couple of weeks to pick up my trans. I can hear it inperson!
It sounds wicked indeed!! Once you drive it you may find it a bit sluggish at low to mid because of the LSA and Duration combination of the cam. The way to cure that is to fine tune the Acc. Enrichment and timing. You can have more timing advanced at low to mid and retard and lean at top end. That is how I'm able to get the best response and top end power safe. It will take some trial and error but you'll get it right.
I'm going to an Instructor Clinic in West Virginia this upcoming weekend and the following weekend I will be going to Orlando to pick up the trans. Let's make plans to meet, I'd like to see and hear that beast and if I can help you in anything I will. I think you have everything under control.!
PS. Make sure you set the REV Limiter!
[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 04-01-2018).]
There were some 'minor interference issues' with the decklid. So for the time being, I cut a hole in it. I'll probably glass in a scoop, or make the decklid "blister" a little higher, when I get around to Rear Clamshell 2.0.
Also, I'm still waiting for the intake piping to arrive. Then I need to figure out what to use as an air filter. But it's nice to have the car back on the ground, with all 4 wheels on it.
Today the Freak got a much needed bath. I also fiddled with the startup and idle settings some more. Tuning this new setup is turning out to be a lot of work! But I finally got it to a point where it will start and idle on its own (i.e. without touching the gas pedal).
I swear, I heard the engine saying "Feed me, Blacktree!"
Tomorrow, I want to drive it around a bit, so the MegaSquirt can do its auto-tune thing. I might try to get some video footage, but no promises.
I swear, I heard the engine saying "Feed me, Blacktree!" .
Don't worry about the footage now, get the tuning sorted out and then get us a nice footage of it sreamming and spitting fire in decel! (you can make the car do that with the MS)
I did some driving around today with the auto-tune. The VE table was a bit off. But that's to be expected, because it was guesstimated. It still needs more "auto-tune time", to correct the rest of the VE table.
Aside from that, there was some good and some bad stuff that happened. First of all, it looks like the distributer o-ring went bad. I have a spare, and will install it when I get a chance. The good thing is that it seems the "hot restart" issue, which has plagued this engine for a few years now, has gone away. I tracked it down to a bad battery cable connection. The cable itself was loose inside the terminal connector. I guess the soft metal loosened up over time. So I replaced it with a solid brass terminal. Now she fires up every time.
The leaky o-ring has been fixed. But I found another issue. I was tweaking the engine/tranny mounts to try to get some more firewall clearance, and one of the tranny mount bolts pulled the threads out of the bolt hole. The bolt in question goes into the transaxle casing. So I'll drill and tap it for the next size up.
The leaky o-ring has been fixed. But I found another issue. I was tweaking the engine/tranny mounts to try to get some more firewall clearance, and one of the tranny mount bolts pulled the threads out of the bolt hole. The bolt in question goes into the transaxle casing. So I'll drill and tap it for the next size up.
Teething problems, its normal in a new build. Keep going going!
Quick update: The engine now has induction pipes. These are an important part of the Helmholtz Resonator design. Without the air column in the ram pipes, the resonator won't work as well. They're made from aluminum heater hose, and two of the old velocity stacks.
I'm probably going to make an air filter box out of fiberglass. There's plenty of room in that area for it. It can pull in fresh air from the fender area.
You can drive mine.
