Looking at your dyno and mods, something is way off? Post the wideband readout from that run, I suspect it may be running to rich. Or perhaps there is an issue with your cam timming. Something is just not right at all. The dif with our headers and intake should be very noticable even just driving the car nevermind on the dyno! Send us the wideband data.
There is no wideband data. I wasn't doing any tuning. Keep in mind that the stock intake and Trueleo intake were both tested under the same conditions. So if the engine was running rich, or if the timing was off, it would have affected both dyno runs.
There is no wideband data. I wasn't doing any tuning. Keep in mind that the stock intake and Trueleo intake were both tested under the same conditions. So if the engine was running rich, or if the timing was off, it would have affected both dyno runs.
I still think something is not right. Can you get some wideband data? Also; did you remove the distributor when did the intake installation? You're not using a Hypertec chip are you? The stock chip works much better with our intakes and headers.
Originally posted by Francis T: I still think something is not right.
I knew you wouldn't like the dyno chart... LOL.
On a more serious note, it occurred to me that I may be maxing out my fuel injectors ( 17 lb/hr ). I'll have to check into it.
Well, according to this website's injector size calculator, my 17 lb/hr injectors are maxed out. Their max HP capability is almost the same HP I'm getting from my engine. I also took a drive around the block, and the BLM is in the low 140s.
I think it may be time for some 19 lb/hr injectors.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2008).]
On my 87 NA 2.8 with intake and headers only, the stock injectors work fine. And it's not question of not likeing your dyno numbers as it is understanding them. If you any help with the problem just give us yell.
It kinda looks like your front fender is starting to stick out. may be the angle though. other than that the car looks amazing good job. I will soon be doing the hood/fender mod thanks to your detailed process, but with my own twist. keep it up. and a + to as well.
Did you have to remove the lower rocker panels (under the door) to remove the quarter panels?
Yes, I did. The rocker panels interlock with the ground effects on the fenders and quarterpanels. I had previously replaced the rivets with nut rivets and machine screws. So removing the rocker panels is easy.
The rear clip and quarterpanels are bonded together. I roughed up the mating surfaces with 50-grit sandpaper, and glued them together with epoxy resin. See photos below.
The screws are just temporary, to hold the panels together until the epoxy hardens.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2017).]
I use West System epoxy resin with my fiberglass. So that's what I used to bond the panels. It's just a personal preference. To be honest, SMC resin (or the Lord Fusor product you mentioned) would probably be better.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-04-2008).]
More on the rear clip. After the epoxy hardened, I sanded the molding grooves to remove the paint, and filled them with fiberglass. In the photo below, the new fiberglass has already been sanded.
While I was waiting for the fiberglass to harden, I inspected the exposed frame sections for rust. I did find some minor rust along the back edge of the roof. So I cleaned it up and painted it with POR-15. I also painted the rest of the exposed frame parts with POR-15, just for good measure. And I replaced the old, cracked-up weather stripping with new stuff from the hardware store.
The rear clip has been re-installed. But unfortunately, the Fiero's water pump failed. So the body work has been temporarily put on hold.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2017).]
Here's another update. Over the last few days, I shaved the door trim.
When I removed the door trim, I noticed there were a couple screws underneath that attach the door skin to the door frame. If I left the screws in place and covered them up, the door skin would be permanently attached. I decided to remove the door skins from the car, to see if these screws were really necessary. They didn't appear to be very important, so I deleted them. The rest of the door fasteners could be re-used, because they aren't in the area that's going to be filled.
In the photo below, you see the door frame with the outer skin removed. I've marked all the fasteners (except for the 4 rivets on the bottom) with arrows. The blue arrows are the fasteners that can be re-used. The red arrows are the two screws under the door trim that I decided to delete.
I decided to do the fiberglass / filler work with the door panels removed. Removing the door skins (and re-installing them) was a PITA, but it made the body work easier. I sanded all the paint from the door trim groove, plus about 1.5" on either side. Then I filled the groove with fiberglass. It took 6 layers of glass fiber mat to fill it. Below, you see the raw fiberglass.
Then I sanded it flat, and filled the low spots with epoxy-based putty. In the photo below, the putty has been applied, and then sanded. I used a marker to circle spots that needed another coat of putty.
After that, I sanded it smooth and sprayed on some primer. Below, you see the door skins ready to be re-installed. Notice the holes for the door locks.
Also notice that I left a crease along the top edge of the trim channel, instead of rounding it off. That crease coincides with the seam between the hood and fenders. I plan to carry that crease all the way back to the rear fascia, where it will meet the seam between the decklid and fascia.
My next task will be to shave the trim from the rear quarterpanels. That will involve removing the rear clip and quarterpanels. So it ought to be fun.
Looks great!! May I suggest you find a way to smooth out or flatten the outer surface of the door handle? The stock handle matches the ribbed trim but will look out of place with the trim removed.
most definitely. if i had the money/time id be doin this 2 my car. great thread here, one of the few that i can sit here and read straight thru. btw watever happened? been a month or 2 since there was an update.
Lately, I've been driving more conservatively, to avoid slipping the clutch. But it's getting worse.
The clutch is a Spec Stage 2. It's only about 2 years old, with about 20K miles on it. I haven't had a chance to take a good look at it yet (i.e. separate the engine/tranny). But I'll have to do that soon. I'm not going to make any statements or draw any conclusions until then.
Come to think of it, the clutch has probably been slipping (although a lot less obviously) for quite some time. When I went drag racing last summer, what I thought was wheelspin was more likely clutch slippage. I didn't believe it at the time, because the clutch showed no other symptoms of slippage. It only happened when I revved up the engine and launched hard. Come to think of it, this might have also affected my last dyno run.
So after I fix the car, I need to do more dyno runs and drag races to get accurate data.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 01-25-2009).]
I just got a deal on an Addco 1" front sway bar that I couldn't pass up. So now my Fiero has a new front sway bar.
I bought some greaseable center bushings, made by Energy Suspension. I got 'em at AutoZone for about $20. Below is a shot of the sway bar just before installation.
At first, I was concerned that the larger bar might require drilling new mounting holes. I didn't think the mounting bolts were spaced far enough apart on the Fiero. But luckily, the bigger brackets just barely fit. In order to make it fit, I had to grind some material from the washers. Below is a close-up of the bushings, brackets, and washers.
And last but not least, a shot of the sway bar installed. Here you can see just how tight the fit was.
BTW, the mounting bolts are SAE Grade 8, 3/8" diameter. When I overhauled the suspension several years ago, I drilled out the bolt holes in the chassis and tapped them for 3/8" threads. These bolts are MUCH stronger than the dinky original mounting bolts. I don't have to worry about the heads snapping off any more.
Next on the "hit list" is the clutch. I should be addressing that issue soon.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2017).]
Today, I played with the air filter can some more. This time, I decided to modify the base to increase the open area. In the photo below, you can see how it looked before modification.
According to my calculations, those three holes in the base have a total open area of about 4.5 square inches.
The first step in the process was to cut a piece of plate steel to fit in the opening, and tack-weld it in place. See photo below.
Then I used my Dremel tool with a cut-off disc to cut out the 3-prong section from the middle. After that, I re-assembled the air filter can assembly, with a nut on the bottom of the rod that holds the lid. I situated it so that nut was sitting in the center of the piece of steel I welded in, and then welded the nut to the piece of steel. I then disassembled the air filter can, so I could finish up the welds and clean them up. After a quick coat of paint, it looks like this:
According to my calculations, the hole now has about 6.5 square inches of open area. That's 2 square inches more than stock, and can potentially flow about 40% more air.
I also received some goodies in the mail. My Spec Stage 2 clutch is slipping badly. I decided to replace it with a ClutchNet unit, with a solid hub. Plus, I figured that while I have the engine out, it would be a good time to replace the cam. The existing cam (Edelbrock) is meant for use with a mild performance rebuild. But since I installed the Trueleo intake and exhaust headers, and the oversize throttle body, I think it's time for a more aggressive cam.
The cam is the PAW / SSI stage 3, which is roughly halfway between the Crane H260 and H272. Ironically, I had planned to install it originally. But the machinist said it would be too aggressive for that engine configuration (which at the time had the stock intake, ported stock exhaust, and stock ECM). So it sat on the shelf for a couple years, waiting for the rest of the engine to catch up to it.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2017).]
In addition to replacing the clutch and the camshaft, I also decided to remove the header wrap and repaint the headers with POR-20 Black Velvet high-temperature paint.
If I want to make it to the Daytona show, I'll have to work fast.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2017).]
Yesterday, I replaced the clutch. The old friction disc was a little worn, and had some glazing. The flywheel also had some glazing. I cleaned it off with some fine sandpaper, and installed the new friction disc.
After that was finished, I removed the headers. The header wrap was in pretty rough shape.
Even though I had applied 2 coats of paint to the headers before wrapping them, they still fell victim to rust. Luckily, the rust isn't very bad. Below, you see the headers with the wrapping removed.
Next, I'll clean them up and repaint them with the POR-20.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2017).]
Today, I replaced the camshaft. In the photo below, you see the new cam going in. Notice the assembly lube on the cam lobes.
You'll also notice that I'm not using any special cam installation tools. Instead, I use an Allen wrench to support the back end of the cam, while I handle the front end by hand. Believe it or not, this method works pretty well.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2017).]
I re-assembled the engine (except for the headers) today. However, I decided to make one small modification to the lower intake manifold. I noticed when I disassembled the engine that the sealant in the center sections of the lower intake (where it touches the engine block) was "walking" out of the seam between the intake and engine block. The stresses from heating and cooling (aluminum and iron expand and contract at different rates) must have broken it loose. I decided to cut grooves in the bottom of the intake to help hold the sealant in place. I used a Dremel tool with a rotary file to cut the groove. See photo below.
I've seen people do this before, and apparently it works pretty well.
Tomorrow, I plan to do some work on the headers.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2017).]
Yeah, looks like I'm barely going to make the deadline. I'll probably have the car back on the road Thursday. I just hope everything works right, or things could get pretty stressful.
Anyway, it took 2 full days to clean up the headers. After an acid bath, lots of scrubbing and grinding, more chemicals, and more grinding and scrubbing, the headers are finally clean enough to paint. The rust on the firewall-side manifold and Y-pipe was pretty stubborn. But I'm stubborn too.
Here you see the headers ready to paint:
The first coat of POR-20 is drying as I type this. Tomorrow, I'll put on a second coat. And hopefully, I'll be able to re-install the headers (and the drivetrain) on Wednesday.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2017).]
a few of us are still watching this project!
