Today, I installed the hood prop, made and installed some more brackets to help align the body panels, and did a lot of sanding. Below, you can see a few photos of the hood prop. I installed it inside the trunk, on the forward edge. This will keep it out of the elements (and away from engine heat).
Here's a closeup of the mounting bracket for the hood prop. It's just a piece of aluminum angle bracket bolted to the bulkhead.
And finally, here's a shot of the prop rod in the stowed position. About halfway down the rod, there's a hook holding it in place. The hook keeps tension on the rod (pulling it against the bulkhead), so the rod doesn't flop around.
Tomorrow, I should be able to spray a coat of primer on the rear end. Then I'll be going to the Central Florida Fiero Club meeting for show-n-tell.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 09-01-2017).]
Good news: I was able to primer the rear end today. However, I forgot to stock up on lacquer thinner. So after that ran out, I had to switch to rattle-cans. As a result, the rear end has 3 shades of primer gray on it... LOL.
I think I'll finish up the dash and console next, then get to work on the nose.
Edit to add: I just realized that the last bit of side molding has now been deleted from my Fiero. My Fiero is now molding-less!
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 09-01-2017).]
I decided to keep the "PONTIAC" on the rear bumper, because IMO it belongs there. GM killed the Pontiac division. So I'm going to "represent", so to speak.
I haven't decided on a specific color yet, but the body will be painted some shade of silver or metallic gray. The ground effects will be semi-gloss black... with stickers... LOL.
Actually, I had considered it. But I've used so many different rear spoiler setups on this car, making one permanently mounted would be a pretty bad idea. Imagine all the grinding that would be involved...
I helped out a fellow club member with his Fiero today, so no progress on the Freak. I'll probably work on it a little this weekend, though.
Yeah, etch-a-sketches are great... FOR ME TO POOP ON!
Yeah, the car is pretty fun to drive. It's basically like a big go-kart. One of these days, I'll get this new clutch installed, and I'll be able to use more than half throttle. Then I can hit the dyno, and the drag strip, and stuff.
Today, I helped a local club member (PFF username exoticse) bring home a 3800SC for his choptop project. So no progress on the Freak.
I bought the shifter knob from Summit Racing. It fits M16 x 1.5mm thread. The shifter arm is a modified stock unit. I cut out the top part of the arm, and welded in a long bolt (with the bolt head cut off) in its place. It was actually pretty easy. You'll be able to see it in person at the next CFF meeting.
edit to add: I almost forgot, I got the emblems (two of them, one for the dash and one for the front grille) from Paul at fierosails.com
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 05-28-2010).]
The header paint is kind of a long story. When I first got the headers, I painted them with DEI Hi-Temp Silicone Paint, then wrapped them with header wrap (and hosed down the wrap with more silicone paint). The silicone paint held up OK, but needed a little touch-up every so often. Unfortunately, the header wrap trapped water and caused the pipes to rust.
When I got rid of the header wrap, I decided to try the POR-20 Black Velvet exhaust paint. Supposedly, it was the next best thing to ceramic coating. Yeah... right. The POR-20 looked awesome for a couple months, then started chipping / flaking off. That kinda pissed me off, considering the lengths I went through to clean and prep the headers (wire wheel, acid dip, sandblasting, acetone wash). The rust you see in the first photo above is the ate-up POR-20 paint. I touched it up with some DEI silicone paint I had leftover, as a temporary measure.
When I drop the engine later this month to replace the clutch, I'll be repainting the headers with the DEI silicone paint... and throwing the leftover POR-20 in the trash. I don't want to give the POR-20 away, because I feel like I'd be doing the person a disservice.
Actually, that's Dupli-Color ceramic engine paint. It's good stuff. You just have to be careful not to nick / scratch it. The intake is painted iron gray with a gloss clear-coat. And all the bracketry is painted semi-gloss black (no clear-coat).
I bought it from the local auto parts stores. But if you can't find it locally, Summit Racing sells it too.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 06-02-2010).]
Today, the Freak got a new pair of tires. Saturday before last, my right rear tire blew out on the highway. And the left rear was getting pretty worn. So I replaced both.
I'd also like to thank Frank Martin (aka Dragon) for loaning me a wheel and tire, so I wouldn't have to drive 50+ miles home on the donut spare.
Originally posted by Blacktree: I'd also like to thank Frank Martin (aka Dragon) for loaning me a wheel and tire, so I wouldn't have to drive 50+ miles home on the donut spare.
Would that even be possible with a lowered fiero? My fiero is lowered as well and shoot, driving with a spare would make me nervous! Glad you didn't have to try it especially with all the body work you have done!
[This message has been edited by fierofury (edited 06-03-2010).]
I've driven on the donut spare before. It isn't fun, but is do-able. I'm just glad the tire didn't fly apart when it failed. That would have REALLY sucked.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 08-24-2017).]
I decided that while I have the engine out, it would be a good time to tackle a couple other jobs. For example, upgrading to a 2.5" exhaust.
The Trueleo Y-pipe is 2.5" diameter at the bottom. They attach a reducer to the bottom, so you can use a stock-size exhaust. I'm going to cut that off and run 2.5" pipes out to the muffler. I also noticed that my Ocelot muffler has 2.25" flanges, with reducers welded on to fit the stock-size (2" diameter) pipe. So I'll cut off the reducer for the inlet pipe, and replace it with a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer to fit the new 2.5" pipe.
I'm still waiting on a few more parts, though. When those parts come in, the fun starts!
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 09-01-2017).]
Today, I built a fan shroud for the oil cooler. There are pre-made fan mounting kits available, but they usually mount the fan right on top of the oil cooler. I don't like that arrangement, because only the area directly under the fan blades gets airflow. My homemade shroud spaces the fan about an inch away from the oil cooler, so air can be pulled through all the cooling fins. Here are a couple photos.
I also bought a thermostatic fan switch for the oil cooler fan (on at 180°F, off at 170°F), but it hasn't arrived yet. I hope it gets here by Friday!
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 09-01-2017).]
Your fan box looks great (do you have a brake?). I was planning on mounting mine and venting it through the side vents, so I'd like to hear your reasoning. Where are you mounting the oil cooler? Why is it you need the fan?
Your fan box looks great (do you have a brake?). I was planning on mounting mine and venting it through the side vents, so I'd like to hear your reasoning. Where are you mounting the oil cooler? Why is it you need the fan?
Bob
Everything so far looks great, I have the same questions as RCR though. If the car is seeing regular use and sees maybe short spirited driving, whats the purpose of the oil cooler?
The oil cooler is probably overkill. But then again, most of the other mods aren't really necessary either. I'm sure the same could be said for many of the mods on our cars.
Anyway, the shroud is made of 1/32" aluminum. It's pretty easy to bend. I actually did the bending in a vice, using the vice jaws and a couple blocks of wood as a makeshift bending brake. Then I used a flat-face hammer to square off the edges. It may seem complicated, but was actually pretty simple and straightforward.
The plan is to tuck the oil cooler into the open space behind the passenger side quarter-panel. I will not be adding an air scoop. So there won't be much airflow through the area. That's where the fan comes in. It will draw fresh air into the oil cooler, from underneath the car. And thanks to the mods I made to the rear clip and sail panels, there is an escape path for the hot air.
I'm also thinking of using a temporary indicator lamp, so I can monitor the operation of the oil cooler fan. If it doesn't activate very often, then I may nix the fan, or the oil cooler entirely.
I bought the oil cooler at a local auto parts store. It's a standard 7.5 x 12" unit, with the sandwich adapter, hose, mounting hardware, etc (CarQuest part # 77451 HTR). I bought the fan separately from Jeg's. It's on sale for $36.99 ( LINK ). And I bought the fan switch on eBay for about $10 shipped.
On a side note, I really hope this new clutch works out. I'm itching to get the Freak back on the track.