Is your starter new? Listening to it go, I'm almost wondering if it has some bad brushes or the comutator is badly tarnished or something.

I think he just replaced the solenoid, but the starter itself is still the old one.....

quote Originally posted by Richjk21: I think he just replaced the solenoid, but the starter itself is still the old one.....

ya

If the battery is up and the starter is turning that slow either the windings are burnt or they will be. There is alot of resistance somewhere. Does the battery cable heat up quick?

i dont think so... hmm.. maybe its the starter then.. you all think i should just go ahead and replace it?

If you take the starter off and take it to an Auto Zone, etc., they should be able to bench test it for you. Failing that, maybe someone has a known good one you can at least use to test?

The resistance could be coming from a tight crank... as in not round. Lets hope the starter is toast

THIS is how it SHOULD look (finally a part of the car i am happy with!)



Tried to attack the shock..


i got the top 2 bolts out. the bottom one.. rusted. its now stripped and im not sure how im going to get it out (now before you say go buy this or this, im broke.) so im unsure what im going to do at this moment..

it definately needed replacement though, i pushed it down, and it just stayed there..


ALSO.. i honestly dont think its the starter.. tried to start it again, and it was turning faster than before (im guessing because since we redid the lash, oil is now covering more areas)

but no start.. not even a pop.. so i took a plug out to check for spark (usually we checked #1 so i checked #3)
still got spark

but i did notice the plug was covered in fuel.. alot ...so im hoping the cyl's were just flooded with fuel.. i took out the back 3 plugs and in a few ill go out and see if theres a difference!

[This message has been edited by BobadooFunk (edited 05-21-2007).]

How many miles on the car? There are a lot of wear parts in a starter. I would guess that is the problem. The cyl. are going to be flooded if you are cranking and cranking and there is no fire.

for the shock, I had the same problem. the bolt rusted to the inside sleeve in the shock bushing. I had to cut mine out as you see here: It was pretty fun. The cut off wheel I used was big enough that I had to cut into the shock rather than risk cutting the lower control arm. It was awsome. Hydraulic fluid spewd out everywhere and acted as a cutting fluid. Worked great, but left quite the mess to clean up. If you have access to an oxyaceteline (sp?) torch you can burn off the bolt ends. I ended up doing that on my lower control arm bushing bolts.

After cranking for a while and it not starting I would put the throttle to the floor while cranking. That will cut the fuel injectors and clear out the cylinders to keep it from getting hydrolocked. Beyond that, sometimes getting it flooded and doing that is enough to get a stubborn engine started.

AH! i didnt know that thanks!

well when i tried to start it, i got one BOOM then nothing again, so this time i took ALL the plugs out.. 20 mins later put em back in, same thing.. so.. now i have them all out, and am going to let it sit for the night. im really hoping its just too much fuel. no matter who i talk to, they are clueless.. ive got spark, compression, and fuel.. and im not getting any combustion..

(now i am hoping it is flooded, and my thoughts are backed by this, when we were doing the timing, we noticed when you hit the rotor a certain way the fuel pump would kick on.. and we did it a few times..) Jazzman said its because the car thinks its running and sends fuel. SO tomorrow i try again.

good luck. how old is the fuel in the tank?

Well let's just hope you get this thing runnin' soon. Seems like you are so close and yet so far. How about letting it sit overnight (or a few days) and install a cheap set of NEW plugs and trying it? Just a thought. Hope you get that thing going!

That strut tower brace part does look good. That is why I put one in my car. Is your oil pressure building up while you crank? If it doesn't get out of the red the car may not start. That is the problem I faced on my way to Carlisle when my car died. I'm going to get a new pigtail to see if it fixes the intermittent problem I have with mine.

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 05-21-2007).]

Hey B.

Glad to see you are still working at it. I have two sets of new plugs, only like 100 or so miles on each. One AC delco and the other Bosh platinums. Let me know if you need them.

Also, I have a compression tester if you need.

I still think you are not getting enough cranking power...

those are new plugs though..

for now i have unplugged the OPSU, someone told me it will still start unplugged, (and i did get one combustion..)

now i have to figure out which wire goes where.. i called rjblaze, and i found the 12 volt one, but no matter which way i connect the wires, the gauge pegs..

UGH no difference.

If its flooded its sometimes tough to get it "unflooded" with fuel injected cars. I know its tough (long time to wait when you want to hear it run) but I would suggest taking the plugs out and letting it sit a day or two at least. The comment about holding it to the floor should be correct but if its really flooded, even that may not be enough. One thing to remeber, fuel injected cars shouldnt need any throttle pumping to start (alot of people with regualer carberated cars think they need to pump them, if they are in working order you shouldnt ever have to pump a fuel injected car). If its flooded really bad it might not hurt to squirt a shot of oil in each cylinder..all that gas and lots of cranking will wash the cylinder walls dry.

Clok

86fierofun had a good question about how old is the gas in the tank. If the gas is old it might not be any good. Have you tried spraying any starter fluid into the throttle body yet?

i just did, well sorta... ive discovered its REALLY hard to try to turn the key with one hand, and spray fluid with the other im connecting a start switch asap. (i alreave have one..)

You can take the two fuses out of the car that power the two sets of injectors. Then you can shoot a short blast of starting fluid in the intake (about 1 second with the thottle held wide open) and then take your time getting in and turning the key. (be sure to let the throttle go back to the idle position before cranking.) If the car does not fire right up you have more than injector and fuel issues. It could be cam timing, ignition timing or components related to the ignition system. wishing you luck!

If you try the above after drying out the fuel that is in there now and then find that it is still flooding with fuel, your injectors may not be closing all the way letting fuel drip or spray into the intake when they should be closed. To check that out, unplug the fuel pump and after drying the cylinders out repeat the above test with the starting fluid. When you crank the engine with the starting fluid it should fire almost immediately.

You say you got a boom, when you tried to start it, well if you got fuel and spark, it should run. Do you have your distrubutor in their right. I know every time I put a fiero engine in I end up the the distributor 180 degrees off and it won't run like that bug makes some huge boom's.

Mike

------------------
Blue 1987 GT, Blue 1987 Coupe, 4.5 V8 1987 GT
www.FierosandMore.com This is a link to my personal web site, has pictures of all my projects and parts for sale.

quote Originally posted by boysatt: You say you got a boom, when you tried to start it, well if you got fuel and spark, it should run. Do you have your distrubutor in their right. I know every time I put a fiero engine in I end up the the distributor 180 degrees off and it won't run like that bug makes some huge boom's. Mike

hmm.. so if i take OUT the distributor (all the way out right?) and rotate it 180, do i re-do the timing?

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: hmm.. so if i take OUT the distributor (all the way out right?) and rotate it 180, do i re-do the timing?

Rather than pulling the distributor, just move the wiring around the cap by 180 degrees. Swap 1 & 4, swap 2 & 5, swap 3 & 6. One of the beauties of an Even-Fire V6.

ah.. well i had already moved the distributor around 180... no difference.. this is really getting old... i just wish it wasnt $85 for pepboys to check it out.. otherwise id just have them diagnose, then id fix it... although next check i may succum to that another 1.5 weeks away..

Hey B.,

I can bring my compression gauge over. At least you would know if the valves are closing and you can get a reading on the compression. Just screws in like a spark plug.

------------------
87 Fiero GT (3.2 Turbo)
E-mail: david88@peoplepc.com
www.angelfire.com/pa5/davidfiero/

quote Originally posted by RotrexFiero: Hey B., I can bring my compression gauge over. At least you would know if the valves are closing and you can get a reading on the compression. Just screws in like a spark plug.

i work today at 5-midnight.. BUT

atleast i got something done today...

started cutting pieces of the sound deadening stuff..


installed the newer door lock mech. that Jason so graciously provided (YAY the door closes again!)


then i went to 3 different places to find some bolts+nuts.. that took forever..

then i finally attacked it. full force.


it even fought back


but i came, i sawed, i conquered. and replaced.


did i mention i havent slept since tues night? now i just gotta wait for my POR-15 till i can put all my interior back together, cause i want it all in one peice when i take it in...

Hey Jerry,

I believe that the sending unit is an "open switch" until it sees oil pressure then closes to let the car start. if you remove the wires it is the same as having a "open switch". Did you try putting a jumper wire between those 2 wires off the sending unit so the computer thinks it is getting oil pressure? Anyone correct me if I am wrong? Just thinking out loud.

By the way the yellow/black seats look awesome in my yellow GT. Steering wheel requires a $90 kit. OUCH!!!

Great seeing you in Carlisle.

Chuck

------------------
1986 SE 4 cyl, 5spd
1987 GT T-Tops
1987 GT 5 spd
1988 SE T-Tops

well... i definately couldnt afford it, but i did it anyways.. school is coming up so ill just tell my lanlord why im short a bit..

first time out of the garage since i got it!!








where she sits now..


someday



once the guy saw he, he's like i dunno but we can give it a try.. (wonderful i thought..) so if they cant do anything (cause pep boys only does so much work) there is a full mechanic place across the st. so ill push it there and lose more $ EEK!

ugh.. good news is i FINALLY start my manager training June 4th..

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: first time out of the garage since i got it!!

That's worth celebrating!

Party down tonight...post pics of the debauchery tomorrow.

Sometimes you just have to break down (no pun) and pay a shop to have a lookie. Especially after a few weeks of trying. I hope it's an easy unexpensive fix for the pep boys. You will be crusing in no time.

------------------
88 Coupe 4cyl 5 speed (Carl)
88 GT built 3.2 5 speed (Bianca)

Someone told me that my engine was taking up my trunk space.. I quickly responded with "NO, my trunk is taking up my engine space" hahaha.

quote Originally posted by Toddster: That's worth celebrating! Party down tonight...post pics of the debauchery tomorrow.

whats funny about that is i really am going to a party, just about to leave actually HA!

I was so excited to see the picture of her out of the garage! Then I read why... Looks much better in the daylight! You know, I always feel better when I've been sick for a while to get out and get some fresh air- maybe that's what she was really needed? I can't wait to find out what the 'Boys come up with.

Here's hoping it's an easy fix...

So what did they find out?

no word yet, i drove by yesterday and they hadnt got to it yet..

I hate to be the down side but taking your car to a shop that does not specialize in Fieros is asking for trouble. I would get that thing away from there as fast as I could. It is very unlikely that you will end up with a running car after they look at it. But you are likely to end up with a large labor/parts bill.

I don't about in PA but there is not one shop around here that specilizes in Fieros.

Just make sure they understand they are not to fix anything without your consent first. I'd be very wary of a Pep Boys. They aren't known to have the brightest mechanics in the world. Keep a close eye on everything they do. If they don't have an answer for you in a couple days, go get the car and take it somewhere else.

honestly they should be able to get a GM 2.8 running. I mean yeah it is a fiero but that is a common engine. I have never been there so I dont know but I am giving them the benefit of doubt. Do they do engine work or just brakes and tune ups and stuff? If they do engine work they can get it. If they do tune ups they wont get as far as you did...