Curly did you hit a bird and knock your light outta whack. BTW i am in sac now lookin for a job so might be able to take a trip to see this masterpiece soon.
Edit to add ownership for this page.
Possesion is 9/10th's of the law i won't give it up without a fight.
[This message has been edited by 85duke (edited 11-01-2008).]
Curly did you hit a bird and knock your light outta whack. BTW i am in sac now lookin for a job so might be able to take a trip to see this masterpiece soon.
The following day was spent on the road to D1S (16-17 hrs) stopping here and there for coffee breaks and gassing up. At one of the tolls in IL a State trooper was inside one of the booths talking with a Toll personal. The state trooper asked me if my car was registered in IL? I said, "No. It's an OK car." She commented about the car not having a front license plate. Lots of road work on IL and right before Funks Grove rest stop I experienced a 6-8" bump in the road. I saw it nearly 100 yards ahead of me (it seemed). I tried to slow down to less than 45mph, but with 18-wheeler on my tail I couldn't. The north and south bound hwy were joined leaving one lane per side and concrete walls on both sides of the south bound hwy. The jolt jarred loose the left passenger side C6 headlamp and cracking part of the inner fender lip.
The worse I feared was a flat tire so I pulled over at the nearest rest stop (Funk's Grove) to inspect the damage. The 255's held up but it was a close call. Hindsight, it was better to use the 245's instead since they're 8.5" and not 9" wide. Either way, I'll need to re-enforce the bracket that houses the headlamp (actually all of them just in case). The C6 bracket, C6 headlamp opening, and bottom lip are the only areas untouched by Archie and the Crew.
Not the best picture showing the headlamp clamp, but it is partly fiber glassed. I'll need to re-fiber glass all brackets.
Archie is sending a sheet of matting material for fiber glassing. I didn't want to mess with the adjustment while I was on the road. While at home, I grinded down both sides of the inner lip. The smaller 18's will arrive next week for better diameter clearance. Either way it was better to find the weak spots prior to having the car painted.
The weather was pretty bad in MI and so were the roads. One of the rear 305s wanted to hang inside the asphalt groves craved by the 18-wheelers thus driving in the fast lane was the best option. Once I reached the Will Rogers turn pike the roads were much better minus the $3.50 they charge for passing through.
Well that isn't that too bad mine gets a little scary on some roads. Glad i am not in chico anymore those roads are crap. I have some suspension work to do.
Well that isn't that too bad mine gets a little scary on some roads. Glad i am not in chico anymore those roads are crap. I have some suspension work to do.
Yeah, I got off easy. Here's a pic prior to Funk's Grove incounter.
I was in a race with my cousins Evo8 (modified by AMS), and hit a hill in the road that seemed more like a ramp. He say me get air. The headlights were just fine, but it was right after I had the coilovers lowered as low as possible. I had a one coke can clearance up front, but a HALF coke can for the side skirts from germany. When the car came down, it came down on the driver's side skirt creating an 8" crack along the bottom and gouged the fiberglass a bit on the lower corner. Nothing that can't be fixed. Sorry, I didn't get a chance to get the can pics before I had the car raised again.
My plan is to lay carbon fiber under the hood, along the bottom sides of the side skirts, and make make a diffuser.
Okay, work-in-progress pics of the Dakata Digital (D.D.) gauges in motion;
Archie and the Crew hooked-up the D.D gauges. Due to parts needed to complete the job only the gas (main one), speedo (2nd most important), tach, odometer (set by DD), and volt gauges are functioning.
The two little black switches are for reseting the miles traveled (some other neat tricks I haven't looked into yet) and the left one is functions.
Once the left and right side dash is completed, the stock switches will be re-located.
Due to my need for tweakness, I didn't have enough time for D1S to hook-up the other components, but Kevin provided the needed instructions for the DD hook-up and the Caddy dash pod.
The Dakota Digital fuel gauge reading is pretty accurate. The range is 0-99 with 99 being "full." Rob and Kris calibrated the settings for me prior to me leaving. As you can see in the picture the fuel is reading "86" and once the reading drops below "10" it is set to "flash" and you only have 4-5 miles before you're out of gas.
My overall range thus so far is 297 mile per tank full at speeds of 78-85 mph (I know, I was breaking the law). The oil, temp, and check engine wasn’t hooked up during my 3,000-mile exodus. Also, I didn’t notice it at the time, but my reservoir tank wasn’t re-attached to the car during the C6 flipper conversion thus I was loosing coolant during the trip. I noticed the rear tank was a bit low while in OKC so I refilled it and purchased a radiator cap. No doubt the system after a long run either spilled the contents on the pavement, but I never noticed the front resorver missing. I guess I was too busy looking at the exterior of the car. I have a front cylindrical chrome reservoir at home.
As of now, no. I've been using the MOMO adapters for years and I isn't too intrusive, but IMO perfect for my style of driving since I "lean back" when I drive. On my way to Vegas, I didn't like my arms extended nor did I like the awkward stock steering wheel (non grip), especially when using massive rollers. As for others, the MOMO adapter isn't for them nor the D-shaped steering wheel. I'd say you need to test out a persons car using them prior to buying.
The larger the steering diameter, greater the over-reaction during corrections and the 13.1" MOMO steering wheel is ideal for me while the adapter allows for my forearms to rest upon the center console and door armrest.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 11-09-2008).]
Hey curly, can you get me the measurement of the mirror glass width? Thanks
quote
Originally posted by madcurl:
Troy and I thought about a solution, but (we) decided where going to leave "as-is" and I'm not too pleased with the look, but I'll have to live with it. Granted, it can be fixed, but the downside is the "what ifs." I'm sure you've notice a few cars on the road where the mirror was ripped off with wires dangling. If I were to glass over this area the possibility of ripping the glassed door skin area (more damages); besides there're only three bolts holding it on the metal bracket. If left "as-is" only the door mirror would need replacement. Plus, I've never driven a car with mirrors sticking out 13" and a few Ferrari drivers haven't either. Once you've hit something once, you'll hopefully won't do it again. Unlike the Mercedes, they automatically fold during parking, so I'll need to teach myself to manually fold these babies. I'd bet Archie has since removed the mirrors cause he too has bumped into them at the shop.
13" You'd could poke somebody's eye out with that!
notice that the triangle metal piece is below the base point.
Three little screws.
Bump for godfather. I hope the info helps. I'll take additional pics of the mirror glass today if the weather permits. The mirror replacement is about $80 bucks, but you can get a glass company to cut one for 1/2 that price. Keep in mind that Ferrari uses some type of sticky matting material with a wire attached. You might want to call V8Archie on that since they're the ones who attached the glass to the mirror. One of my mirror was broken (that's why it was cheap to buy).
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 11-10-2008).]
#020 been getting around lately. Roughly from Archie's to CA 2,800, Las Vegas 440 miles (round trip) and then up and down CA 2,000 miles or so. Thus so far, no issues, but it's time to change the oil/filter and fuel filter.
I've been very mindful to fold the mirrors when all possible, cause they do stick-out from the body @ 12.5" but visually you can see they're not outside the buttress range of view, hehe.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 11-18-2008).]
No clearance, venting, or heating issues using the 350Z glass. A mechanic told me the 350Z window would crack due to the excessive heat generated by the motor. It isn't summer time, but so far, so good. The remaining fiber glass dust is about gone, but I do occasionally wipe off the trunk cap since dirt does build-up on the surface. During the initial drive from Archie's it rained pretty hard and water wasn't an issue even though I haven't plugged the washer hole using a XM radio receiver.
No issues using the Ford GT40 window vent as a defuser (granted, I just wanted to use the part since it couldn't be used up top near the 350Z window). No body even notices the part, I have to show them. I guess that's a good thing.
No issues with the heat (from the air vents), but I do need to move from the park position for DVD screen to open. No big deal since you can program the system to remain opened or closed. The past week I've had the door closed since it blocks the NORTHSTAR V8 display, hehe.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 11-18-2008).]
My son gave me one of those just last night Sony with a 7" screen that I will eventually sell because " dad it ain't cool any more" he got one that allows you to bluetooth your mp3's from your computer to the car by the click of a mouse for a whopping $ 1450.
I would use it but I have a complete Panasonic system that I prefer.
My son gave me one of those just last night Sony with a 7" screen that I will eventually sell because " dad it ain't cool any more" he got one that allows you to bluetooth your mp3's from your computer to the car by the click of a mouse for a whopping $ 1450.
I would use it but I have a complete Panasonic system that I prefer.
Yep. Blue tooth. Once I buy an Ipod in Dec I'm set! No more disc taking up space behind the passenger seat.
Thin Lizzy; I needed to remove additional material from the underside or upper lip for clearance using the 255s. I'm almost there, but I'll need to road test the car.
Thinned out the lip; I'm done for now. Next
Drive the car up onto those ramps, but I needed to make sure the nose would clear.
305s fit;
after 5,000 miles or so the oil was pretty black.
Since the bumper was moved down by 2-3 the Gt40 vent come in handy in removing trapped air.
Curly, anything new on #20 since the 18th of last mounth?
Last 18th I had a chance to mock-up the dash and going over how I wanted it too look. I called Mr. Mike in Sarasota, FL to aid in the project. Mr. Mike is my go-to man for interior. In my mind the mock-up looks good and Mr. Mike told me to send it too him for covering.
Today, I'm hooking up the Caddy pod for that dreaded CA inspection. I'll need to pass (standing in line on January 2nd @6:00 am) . I need everything in complete working order prior to January first and I have to get my paper work in order before that day. Otherwise, I'll have to wait another year, cause only 500 applications are issued per year.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 12-02-2008).]
Maybe Archie can give some info on the part, but from viewing the top side, I'd say it's plastic. Until recently (reviewing my DVD from Archie) I never knew it had a shine underneath. However, it did serve the purpose in preventing rocks from hitting my head lamps and allowing for air to flow pass the area (stock like).
I said, "No. It's an OK car." She commented about the car not having a front license plate. 
Lots of road work on IL and right before Funks Grove rest stop I experienced a 6-8" bump in the road. I saw it nearly 100 yards ahead of me (it seemed). I tried to slow down to less than 45mph, but with 18-wheeler on my tail I couldn't. The north and south bound hwy were joined leaving one lane per side and concrete walls on both sides of the south bound hwy. The jolt jarred loose the left passenger side C6 headlamp and cracking part of the inner fender lip. 
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