An easy day relaxing and doing some work on the chopper. I need to finish the actuator wiring so after getting the Dakota Digital actuator synchronized now began the wiring. Everything the Crew perform worked flawlessly so my wire hook-up was pretty easy. I should have started right away once the car was back to CA, but I was too busy enjoying my ride. Anyway, first-things-first.... fold yo stuff!
Next I needed to remove the Corvette seat.
Archie and Crew did a nice job at lowering my seats with original mounting point in tacked.
Archie and the Crew did a nice job on the center console with easy access.
Next, I wanted to take advantage of one of the original holes just about the computer area.
Since I'm using a dual actuator set-up the hole was a bit too small so I decided to make another one just above instead of making one big hole.
Wires laid so time to get to work in the back;
Running the wires through;
Used flex hoses routed through the opening for a factory look;
Back to the interior; the hook-up.
I spent the rest of the day going over D1S Caddy dash pod hook-up and Dakota Digital's gauges. Archie and Crew did an excellent job at hooking the needed items to get me home with out being worried about the readings. Also the location was easy to reach. All I need to do now is hook the remaining items for that dreaded CA inspection.
Edit; to add pics and I can't spell, heheh.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 12-05-2008).]
nice work Curly. I am glad I don't still live in Ca. all the DOT hoops you have to jump threw to get a car on the road.
Thanks. Yeah, CA smog laws are a pain, but I have performed this daunting task before, so I hope this time I'll only need to see the smog rep 1-time instead of 7-times.
It's raining cats and dogs here in the Bay Area so #020 is parked inside the garage. Still need to continue hooking up the Caddy pod system.
Here's the measurements for the Corvette seats. Keep in mind, Archie and the Crew max-out seat rails for fit and you'll need to do the same if you decide the use this type of seat. Also, you're limited as-to moving and folding the upper part of the seat thus the top portion will hit the roof. My seat are allowed to move forward, but you can't tilt the seat. Since we're about the same height the results should be the same.
Give a minute to post all of the pictures. I'm finally using my Iphoto.
Here's the bottom width-wise.
Bottom @ 20 inches (the best I could do while holding the camera)
Upper back seat from bottom to the very top (once again the best I could do without removing the seat from car)
Max-forward tilt;
Max- backward tilt; This is my normal driving position and I very rarely tilt the seat forward.
More pics; clearance
As you can see from underneath, the seat cannot be folded w/o it hitting the roof. I'm okay with this since nobody is getting in the back, right?
The Corvette seat truly hug your side without being obtrusive. It's a better seat for long drives and for going around corners. The down side to using this seat is the headrest blocks your view when trying to look from the drivers side sail window. However. you can see through passenger side sail window.
Last pic; Passenger seat. I usually have leaned as-is, but sometime it's tilted back.
Did you ever get the set I left for you at Archie's at Chop Top II?
No. I didn't. Which ones are those? If they're the ones I got from you during the 1st choptop reunion or the Dells show... I don't want to waste messing them up, so I'm waiting on the paint first.
BTW, thanks for the emblems.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 12-30-2008).]
Might want to hire an electrical helper. If all your splices are like those don't expect them to last a long time. Those scotch loks should be banned for automotive use. Other than that keep going.
Thanks Tony. Unique Chrome (same company that customized Troy's LS7) did the honors for #020's N*. I meet the company at SEMA 2008. I have additional plans for their services in the near future, hehe.
Unique's work;
I've seen other types, but I picked these guys. Besides, Troy did the R&D so no need to pave new roads in unchartered lands.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 01-03-2009).]
Thanks Tony. Unique Chrome (same company that customized Troy's LS7) did the honors for #020's N*. I meet the company at SEMA 2008. I have additional plans for their services in the near future, hehe.
WOW!!
They say chrome doesn't get you home, but I have to say the N* will look awesome sitting under that chrome cover.
I finally had the Corvette fog lamps hooked up too... much better!
Edit: I didn't have a extra lamps switch laying around so the fog lamp are hooked to the headlamps thus when headlamps are on... so too the foglamps. During hi-beam the foglamps are off. I'll get a separate switch some time later.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 01-17-2009).]
Might want to hire an electrical helper. If all your splices are like those don't expect them to last a long time. Those scotch loks should be banned for automotive use. Other than that keep going.
Thanks for the heads-up, but me routing the wires and programming the actuators for the shop- saved me some coinage (3-hrs or so shop wages) the shop had the easy work soldering the wires and hook-up. Besides, they would've babied it being fearful of breaking something like cracking the windshield or ripping out a chunk of fiberglass for those actuators are very strong.
I won't be needing the block of wood cause they hooked the Caddy pod, fog lamps, reprogrammed the alarm to auto open the rear and front hoods, and camera. I didn't leave the shop until 19:00HRS, but it was worth the wait for I had to be there to show them what, where, and function of various parts. I briefly walked to Wendy's for lunch and during which they forgot to activate the camera in full operation. That mistake was found, as I was about to leave. They pulled #020 back into the garage for additional 45-minutes.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 01-17-2009).]
Caddy pod hooked up and working. If there's any problems with the N*, I can diagnose it through the engine management system. Mostly it's a CA smog thing otherwise I wouldn't have it mounted.... just for scanning.
Looks like the fenders were built up and the c-pillar pulled in, prior to the flares being added:
Bob
Thanks.
Yes. Bob is correct. Granted, the FX is aided by usage of the Mad-Arch kit for the no "straight up & down" board look.
Notice the model's hour-glass figure.
quote
Originally posted by madcurl:
Curley doing some research.
Thus we copied what nature has proven to work. If I might add, Archie decided to build two types of hips. On one side the "old school" and the other a "modern" or smoother look. It was decided that "old school" hip looked agressive for a American car, so we went with that.
Curly, any thoughts on a full cover for the engine bay, similar to a Lotus Esprit? The Caddy cover looks drop dead gorgeous, but the rest pulls attention away from it. Just a thought....
Curly, any thoughts on a full cover for the engine bay, similar to a Lotus Esprit? The Caddy cover looks drop dead gorgeous, but the rest pulls attention away from it. Just a thought....
Actually, a full cover will or may embed the air flow thus my plan is too not cover the entire engine bay with simple flat surfaces, but rather mimic the Caddy plenum cover with angles and sharp corners along both front/rear fire walls and sail panel areas leaving the areas closest to the engine untouched. We hope to a removable 2-piece set-up; one for the front (near the glass west-to-east) and one big piece that forks around the dual actuators (north and south). Unique Chrome will perform the plating honors while Auto Sound Lab will do the glass work based upon my design. In the end the entire top area will "pop" thus complimenting the Caddy plenum cover. Currently, I'm swapping parts from #015 thus expediting the process.
If it's a FWD, well then, it should be an AWD. 
