I would imagine that it's Chrome paint. Notice the tape around the terminals & the orange peel along the top.
If it was real Chrome plating, I think that the Copper, Nickel, Chrome, rinse, solvent baths that are part of the Chroming process would have damaged the coil enough that it's not going to be pumping 10000 volts anywhere.
I would have thought that some people could have figured that out without someone having to explain it to you.
As soon as you realize that it's an ignition coil, you have to realize that it's only paint or it's a decoration.
I would imagine that it's Chrome paint. Notice the tape around the terminals & the orange peel along the top.
If it was real Chrome plating, I think that the Copper, Nickel, Chrome, rinse, solvent baths that are part of the Chroming process would have damaged the coil enough that it's not going to be pumping 10000 volts anywhere.
I would have thought that some people could have figured that out without someone having to explain it to you.
As soon as you realize that it's an ignition coil, you have to realize that it's only paint or it's a decoration.
Archie
FWIW, I did not think it was chromed, and I'm certainly not worked up. If the coating is conductive, then it's a probllem. If not, then it looks great. Bob
Sorry for the confusion, I thought everybody knew it was chrome paint and not actually a chromed dipped coil. Two pages back, I mentioned that Unique Chrome will perform all of the plastic chrome painting for my N*. Right now, they're test painting (chrome) one of the N* coils free of charge. As most know, the coils outer shell is made of plastic (non-conductive) so too is the chrome paint.
If it works, we'll continue painting the remaining 3-coil packs. If it doesn't.... we'll I'm out of 1-coil. No biggie. Oh yeah, the test coil is from #015 chop top. Other parts that are metal will be real chrome plated or like Troy did... polished with a clear coat.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 02-08-2009).]
Archie you think the work up is over nothing eh? Well even you should know that silver based paint IS CONDUCTIVE. HELL Even WOOD IS CONDUCTIVE! Curly you will have arcing from that coil. You're next test should be to use a boot as a mask. This will yield you the same visual results since the boot will be over the paint you have on there now anyway. But the chrome paint wont be under the boot at all. Even by using a wire boot to mask with I still believe to be risky since it will still have a conductive coating close to the boot. If that's the look you want I believe that might be the safest route you can go with it. If you sand that paint off try not to scratch up the plastic under it. Don't think that a multimeter is going to be able to test the conductivity of the paint because it won't. but to 10's of thousands of volts you'd be amazed what the spark can cause to conduct.
[This message has been edited by DIY_Stu (edited 02-08-2009).]
Curly you will have arcing from that coil. You're next test should be to use a boot as a mask. This will yield you the same visual results since the boot will be over the paint you have on there now anyway. But the chrome paint wont be under the boot at all. Even by using a wire boot to mask with I still believe to be risky since it will still have a conductive coating close to the boot. If that's the look you want I believe that might be the safest route you can go with it. If you sand that paint off try not to scratch up the plastic under it.
Thanks for your input. We'll check-it-out once the part comes back from the company. If it doesn't work or cause an issues, I'll sand off the paint or use a spare coil.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 02-08-2009).]
Just reach over and touch the body of the coil with it running.... You'll see. Just make sure you empty your bladder before you touch it, because if it isn't, it will be soon.
I know. But Curl does listen to reason. He does expect a little proof to be told. As for others some believe they know it all. I could have been mean and just stayed quiet. But when someone spends the time to dress something up and you can help them do it right. Put feelings for associates aside and lend a helping hand.
Curl I just can't stand the "extra" cluster being in the car, Just looks like it needs a steering wheel over there too.
Curl I just can't stand the "extra" cluster being in the car, Just looks like it needs a steering wheel over there too.
Initially, on #011 I tried to mount the Caddy pod on the drivers side and it was too big and I didn't want to cut into the pod for possible additional room. Therefore, I had no other choice, but to mount it on the passenger side. In CA... it's the Smog law. However, it comes in handy for diagnosing code gremlins.
I got snowed-in along side hwy 58 tonight for 45-minutes. A big snow storm came through stranding me 5-miles outside my home.
Good thing I stopped by Tahoe Joe's for some juicy bar-be-que ribs and rail road style shrimp.
I already eat 1/2 before I took a few picks, hehe. The guy in the SUV (next to me) saw me chopping down. I had everything but fine wines ,hehe.
25-minutes later.... done.
About 45-minutes later, the CHP lead us into town. I don't know what was the big deal? Maybe black ice or something for it wasn't that much snow on the ground.
#020's nose made it just fine. No snow plowing tonight.
Made in time to pick up the movie, Max Payne, hehehe.
Geezs, I hate snow ramps! I made on the second run up the drive way. Those darn 305s aren't made for snow.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 02-10-2009).]
New chrome light gauges and continuation of driver's side dash and I'm expecting one of the chrome painted coils back from Unique Chrome. The coil is now smoothed out and I'm hoping this will work w/o electrical issues.... don't shock me bro! I'm at work, so I can't post, but I'll send a few pics to Tony. Other-than-that, nothing really big to report. The excitement begins once the painting starts after the Terminator releases our a real check and no IOUs.
New chrome light gauges and continuation of driver's side dash and I'm expecting one of the chrome painted coils back from Unique Chrome. The coil is now smoothed out and I'm hoping this will work w/o electrical issues.... don't shock me bro! I'm at work, so I can't post, but I'll send a few pics to Tony. Other-than-that, nothing really big to report. The excitement begins once the painting starts after the Terminator releases our a real check and no IOUs.
Not the best picture but--so far, so good. The chromed painted coil works with OEM coil pack. I'm sending #2 coil on Monday, so we're not 100% sure it will work next to another painted coil. The on-board computer checks out w/o any codes and I ran the motor at night to see if any sparks where given. I'll test it later using a meter.
If all is well, we'll continue with the valve cover and other parts along the way. It was suggested by Unique Chrome that we use black chrome (due to the heat generated by the engine). If the color should change (closest point near the engine block), it wouldn't be visible based upon passed experiences ( using normal chrome paint it tends to tarnish yellow). In the meantime, I need to steam clean the engine compartment, for it was parked for nearly two years with plenty of dust particles everywhere.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 03-01-2009).]
My electrical buttons from Watson's Street Works arrived a couple of weeks ago and I finally got around to plotting the layout for all switches- including the 2-actuator switches on the left side of the steering wheel. Although, you see 2-switches I plan on ordering 1-more switch to operate the driving light display (same as Troyboy's), 1- for the foglamps, and the last one for the headlights.
As for the other side (right of steering wheel), I haven't figured it out, but plan on using the tire pressure gauge and lighter.
Due to time-- I didn't get a chance to down load the latest picks of the left side dash cover with face and electrical items, but this picture gives you glimpses of were the project is headed. This picture was taken last week of the top covering that meets-up with the center console. The part is made of thinly compressed wood with fiberglass layer on the backside. Additional piece was added near the upper corner where it meets the center console vents.
The goal is too have both sides meet-up with the center console in a Mad-Arch-like fashion where all three top components layered in leather. The flat vertical surface (above the Dakota Digital display) will have mahogany wood running the length (east to west). A wood shop in town is cutting the piece to fit inside this area, in front of the radio bezel, coin area, and inside the shifter were the three gauges are fiber glassed.
The face and knee section of the dash (not pictured) too will be layered in leather. The original upper front OEM dash and added fiberglass (behind the Eclipse windshield) will be covered in fake suede material provided by Mr. Mike’s. The speaker (cloth covering removed) and defroster grills will be painted to match the fake sued covering.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 03-01-2009).]
I've been very busy and I haven't had much time to devote to #020, but I'm tweaking a few items on Norm's Flipper; one of which are the distal ends of the hood scoop. I've already removed and sanded down the area. The height is now reduced to flow into the Camero vents. Once glassed in I'll move onto the Lotus V- wiper and smooth the area down a bit and later onto the Corvette side markers. My plan is to copy the rear side maker and add some flare to a boring area.
Area cut and smooth down.
You can see that I'm moving the distal end piece towards the outer edge of the Camero vent. The piece is now a bit lower.
A comparison view.
On Thursday I have a few chromed engine parts I need to pick up. Other-than-that... nothing new here to see.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 03-26-2009).]
I see you also rounded off the edges on the wiper triangle & that looks good too.
Archie
Thanks. You and The Crew really made it easy for me to tweak the part. Thanks for the sheet of fiberglass.
With all of the dust flying around, the N* is looking pretty sad. Also, I forgot to head down to the chrome shop. Oh well, maybe next week I'll have time.
Forgot to ask how's that coil working out? I just remembered you're still using all of the donors ECM system so it'll be able to tell you if there's a misfire. Any Coded pop up?
Forgot to ask how's that coil working out? I just remembered you're still using all of the donors ECM system so it'll be able to tell you if there's a misfire. Any Coded pop up?
So far, no codes (I'm cautiously optimistic). I'm awaiting the second coil from Unique in two weeks for side-by-side testing. If a code is seen then I'll just use the chrome coils as shop ornaments.
Just use a sharpie to mark where the boots end. Then use a fine grit to slowly sand off the paint under the boot. Once that's done then you should be good to go. no need to give up on them. The one sitting there looks great!
Two pages back, I mentioned that Unique Chrome will perform all of the plastic chrome painting for my N*. Right now, they're test painting (chrome) one of the N* coils free of charge. 
, we'll continue painting the remaining 3-coil packs. If it doesn't.... we'll I'm out of 1-coil. No biggie. 
Oh yeah, the test coil is from #015 chop top. Other parts that are metal will be real chrome plated or like Troy did... polished with a clear coat.
However, it comes in handy for diagnosing code gremlins.
We don't know how-to drive in the snow, so the government holds our hands.... even during a 1-inch snow storm. 
