Beautification continued; I cleaned the engine bay and it's looking nice. Today, I ordered Spectra polished intake system today and it should arrive some time this week.
hex bolts
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-15-2009).]
The engine bay is looking beautiful. The chrome through the window will look great.
------------------ 87 GT Tilt Clip-Widebody-RamAir-Fastback-GlassHatch Powered by SBC 383 6-speed w/ NOS Build Thread "Roads?...Where we're going, we don't need roads." - Emmett "Doc" Brown
The engine bay is looking beautiful. The chrome through the window will look great.
Thanks. We're getting there. More chrome parts from Summit arrived today.
What can Brown do for you? I got the part # from V8Archie. Thanks Archie.
I'm ordering plastic chrome sleeves for the throttle body cable and fuel lines. The rest will be custom items that will cover the drive belts, partly intake system, the fire wall, and trunk. Although, the project is moving slowly--- eventually the engine compartment be will (I hope) completed prior to paint.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-18-2009).]
Well, as Archie informed me; I might need additional bends. Oh well, no biggie--- I'll order another 45 and maybe a 22 degree. I snaked the tubing and it's running too close to the actuator so I'll need to shave some of the sleeve for clearance. I tired the same parts on #015 and the parts all fit, but with #022 having the actuators I need to tweak the parts.
(tubing are taped to prevent scratching).
Enough trial fitments--- it's getting late. Work will continue noon time.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-18-2009).]
Looking good! I love all that chrome. I need a favor. Can you give me some details on the actuators you used for the front and rear? I know I read about them somewhere in the past but I'm too lazy to go search for it. I want to install some actuators for the hood of the XTC and just do not know where to start. TIA
Looking good! I love all that chrome. I need a favor. Can you give me some details on the actuators you used for the front and rear? I know I read about them somewhere in the past but I'm too lazy to go search for it. I want to install some actuators for the hood of the XTC and just do not know where to start. TIA
Pat
Thanks. The original idea came for a good guy named David who owns the Pantera replica. His is mounted in a different location. V8Archie tweaked the location for better operations. The ones I purchased (front and rear) are from Dakata Digital (D.D.). The Pantera uses a different company. I went with D.D. because it's American made and I have used other items made by them such as the gauges. I'll try to support America .... first. Watson's Street too uses the same type of actuator and is has a higher rating, but it didn't contain the rocker mounting points I wanted. Watson too is American made.
Here are the various videos and links.
quote
Originally posted by PaulJK:
are those dakota digital 24 inch 150 lb Actuators ?
You can run a intube filter inside the 4 inch tube it makes it easy to get to the filter when cleaning them.they look like a cone made by spec to fit inside there tubes.Just something you may want to do looks like its getting tight in there
You can run a intube filter inside the 4 inch tube it makes it easy to get to the filter when cleaning them.they look like a cone made by spec to fit inside there tubes.Just something you may want to do looks like its getting tight in there
Thanks for the heads-up. I wasn't aware they even make that type of intake filters, but for now; since I've already purchased the K&N--- I use that filter. I will no doubt need to remove the rear tire and wheel well lining to get access to the filter.
The 45s now snakes their way into the body. I'll have to cut a small portion for better placement, but allowing for OEM equipment replacement (for smog here in CA).
Beautification continued; I cleaned the engine bay and it's looking nice. .
Chrome plastic Tubing for electronic cruise control
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-27-2009).]
I dropped off a few 8-foot aluminum rails at WCF for tweaking. Chris is making a templet (three total) for the engine compartment. A 59" rail widthwise and two rails starting from the corner of the window leading back to the trunk. Once cut-- templets will be patterned in and around the engine and then sent to the chrome shop. These parts will cover over the exposed areas and beautify the engine compartment so it isn't necessary to chrome every detail-- just the important parts. It should be half-ways finished by next week.
Aluminum rails to be ran along the border of the upper side frame.
The area below the window and engine with have chrome cover (east to west) to hide the wires and such)
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-24-2009).]
D1S very, very tight fitting Corvette rotors and hubs.
Stock hub (5x100)
Stock hub tweaked, milled and CNC machined (remember we're using the same hub with the same 5x100 bolt pattern).
Side by side comparison
D1S hub turned around to reveal the bolts or backside ( good if you break off a stud... you can purchase a "stud" at your local Auto store)
Please pay close attention to this picture. The "tolorentces" are 0% using D1S. Other words, you can't get a hair between the rotor and the 5-studs. Thus the stock bore size is intact allowing for wheels that are made specially for the Fiero to be used. Granted, for those using universal rims; a need hub centric rings is needed, but if the wheels are custom--- then the wheels will sit tightly on the hub :finger pic.
After getting the intake and other parts polished/chromed/painted I decided to pipe dream an idea for #020's engine bay. In my mind, I think it will work and Chris thinks so too (oh yeah, please excuse the crude mock ups).
First off some measurements: 12 degree.
Now onto to cardboard;
Onto the frame. This isn't the end result but it will be re-modified and shaped.
Left/middle/right sections;
Left section:
Left section joined with strut tower cover;
Side tracked: work car nearly killed me. Yes. That's the upper control arm;
moving right along. I finally decided to widen one of my 3-piece rims. I want to add 1.5" to the outer lip for the rears. http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/
I'm sending one of the rims out for testing.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-01-2009).]
Originally posted by whodeanie: Oh, Crap! I am glad you are OK, looks like a piss poor design to me.
on another note the project is looking great D.
Thanks. I called Mitsubishi motors regarding the control arm and they where no recalls. I dug a bit more on the internet and found a few defects in some of their models including the Eclipse Spider regarding the ball joint failure (mine was the control arm). Instead of arguing with the dealership, I got a replacement control arm on a wrecked Eclipse for $46 bucks and with no structural compromises. If the dealer had anything to do with it--- it would’ve cost me upwards of $500 bucks, car rental, and one major headache.
Thanks. I called Mitsubishi motors regarding the control arm and they where no recalls. I dug a bit more on the internet and found a few defects in some of their models including the Eclipse Spider regarding the ball joint failure (mine was the control arm). Instead of arguing with the dealership, I got a replacement control arm on a wrecked Eclipse for $46 bucks and with no structural compromises. If the dealer had anything to do with it--- it would’ve cost me upwards of $500 bucks, car rental, and one major headache.
Scary stuff. I had a ball joint pop on my first fiero, was only going about 30mph though.
I don't think I have posted in this thread yet, but Nice Car! I have been following the thread for a while now. I like to see your progress and custom items. It helps me to want to work on mine, though mine will never look as good as yours.
I don't think I have posted in this thread yet, but Nice Car! I have been following the thread for a while now. I like to see your progress and custom items. It helps me to want to work on mine, though mine will never look as good as yours.
Thanks. I had a lot of help from plenty of people here.
Today, I got a chance to revisit #020 today and to see how the strut caps have come along and I must say I was impressed. I have the initial frame made by WCF and it will take a bit more tweaking, but all should be good for the second phase.
Mock-up Fiero at the WCF yard.
Pull back pic;
First test fit on #020. As you can see the caps aren't sitting flush so I needed to have some of the aluminum removed, but the over-all design is good.
The goal is too have the chrome lead it's way back towards the body (without actually touching the fiberglass) This are will be painted..
The passenger side: same situation;
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-07-2009).]
On the second round, part of the material was removed and fitted a bit better, but I'll need to remove some more.
Once the welds are grounded down and later the strut cap chromed, the compartment then come alive. I'll need to remove the OEM strut clamps and will use the strut caps instead.
In order for the strut caps to fit I'll need to have a few cut-outs near and around to return tank
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 03-21-2010).]
You west coast guys are very creative when it comes to complying with CA regulations. If I drove my car there, they would probably turn me back at the port of entry. If I took it for a CA inspection, the guy would probably be like, "WTF? Where's your...?....get out of my shop!" and then he would call the EPA to report me. LOL
Mass produce those...I bet you could sell a bunch of them. That area of the Fiero always bothered me when I was showing my car.
It probably wouldn't work on any other car besides Curly's / any car with a glass hatch. We still have our little decklid grills that would get in the way of making that possible.
It probably wouldn't work on any other car besides Curly's / any car with a glass hatch. We still have our little decklid grills that would get in the way of making that possible.
Actually, the idea was found here several years ago. Somebody produced a similar product that only covered the strut tower (that's all you need) and it too was chromed, but I think the originals were made of steel and not aluminum. I mentioned the idea to Chris.
You west coast guys are very creative when it comes to complying with CA regulations. If I drove my car there, they would probably turn me back at the port of entry. If I took it for a CA inspection, the guy would probably be like, "WTF? Where's your...?....get out of my shop!" and then he would call the EPA to report me. LOL
Curly, I like the strut tower covers.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 03-23-2010).]
Today, I rode in a 5.3 V8 automatic at WCF. The next motor I'll get will be this one and installed by Chris West.
Snap that neck!
On Thursday, the owner is headed to the Referee for CA strict engine swap testings.
Cool. So what is it about the LS4 that sold you on it? Over all, how does it compare to the North Star?
I love mine, just wish it was a manual
I have not re-flashed the PCM yet, so I have some "launch control" issues. It will chirp the tires and even get a little sideways in corners but if I stomp the gas it will electronically shut down for a second or two as a default tranny saver.
Cool. So what is it about the LS4 that sold you on it? Over all, how does it compare to the North Star? I have not re-flashed the PCM yet, so I have some "launch control" issues. It will chirp the tires and even get a little sideways in corners but if I stomp the gas it will electronically shut down for a second or two as a default tranny saver.
What sold me on the 5.3? It works and if the 5.3 pass CA emission- no need for another N* when I can walk across the street and have a 5.3 V8 installed. As for the sound- it's about the same as a N*, but a bit quieter with the 5.3 being a bit more power IMO. The only down side is; It doesn't look as pretty as the N* and no cruise control, but the extra ponies and drive-by wire goodies might make up "in the looks department."
Are we there yet? Working non-stop at work, so little or no time for #020, but to today I'm back on course. More tweaking needed, but the strut caps are almost there. I had WCF cut away part of the outer lip leading towards the windshield.
A few cuts here' n there will do the trick.
Some shaving of material on the outer side should do the trick.
The strut cap is crooked in this pic due to the material that needs to be removed from the outer side of rail;
Hopefully, on Tuesday one more cut and then we can proceed with attachments
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-13-2009).]
The only down side is; It doesn't look as pretty as the N* and no cruise control, but the extra ponies and drive-by wire goodies might make up "in the looks department."
If you install the correct parts, your cruise control will work fine. But does make the swap a little more difficult.
Moving onto the center section; WFC cut the ends off for L-corners
L-corners spot welded for testing on #020
The Passenger side is about 99% finished with a few more finite cuts.
Pretty much a snug fit on the passenger side,
Since the strut caps are designed to fit a few inches above the rails--- there was not need to remove the rear clip connection. Oh well, it's aluminum and can be fixed.
The inner pieces will be attached with hex screw with welded nuts on the backside. This way each strut cap can easily fit with having to unbolt the actuators
Beautification Continued: Moving onto the center valance.
As you can see- the project is moving forward by tiny steps, but the center valance which hides the electrical wires (the center valence piece isn't screwed down, but resting on the thread).
As you can visualize from this pic, the lower valance covers over the electrical connections with enough engine clearance. The valance was 1.5" which 2" would've been too close.
The valance was angled back towards the fire wall. Once the polisher removes the welds and rounds off the corners... the part will start to take shape.
Strut tower cap;
Master Aluminum Welder for 30 years. He can weld perfect shape nickels all day long.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-17-2009).]
"A creative mind is a terrible thing to waste"- therefore lets move onto the "fun" stuff like the inserts. Instead of using a flat surface to cover over the flow tank and other not so nice looking areas, a few ideas appeared to me while I was at WCF.
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"A creative mind is a terrible thing to waste."
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-17-2009).]
You know the old saying, "One mans trash is another mans..." Well, at WCF is saw something unique to use inside the engine compartment- the intakes from a 3400.
At a 45 degree angle the 3400 vents will aid the flow of trapped air, use the area for attachment, and stylize the end corners.
On the drivers side I'll need to snake a peice of aluminum around the intake tube down into the engine bay.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-18-2009).]
The chrome through the window will look great. 
Oh well, no biggie--- I'll order another 45 and maybe a 22 degree. I snaked the tubing and it's running too close to the actuator so I'll need to shave some of the sleeve for clearance. I tired the same parts on #015 and the parts all fit, but with #022 having the actuators I need to tweak the parts.
Work will continue noon time.
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