Looks like a coroners table, he he. WCF (Steve) cut out the insert plate. It doesn't have a support, but it sitting on top so it's a bit crooked.
I performed cataract surgery today on the work car. Due to the rocks and the sun's rays- the plastic lens tend to fade. Like Foose says, "it's a good reason to use a power drill."
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-22-2009).]
those tires arent wide enough for the rims, the side wall is flexing in.
They're plenty wide. Having it this way is about perfect: good responsiveness and predictability, no abrupt break-away mid-corner when available grip is exceeded, but not stretched like trying to put a 205 on a 10" rim.
never mind the bling and get the body work finished first bling can go on later lol
He he he,, but 2-years of fiberglass and dirt build-up in the engine compartment was too much for me to bare, especially with a glass rear hatch, but I'll be right back on it in a few weeks.
quote
Originally posted by topher_time:
Curly, any thoughts on a full cover for the engine bay, similar to a Lotus Esprit? The Caddy cover looks drop dead gorgeous, but the rest pulls attention away from it. Just a thought....
quote
Originally posted by madcurl:
My plan is too not cover the entire engine bay with simple flat surfaces, but rather mimic the Caddy plenum cover with angles and sharp corners along both front/rear fire walls and sail panel areas leaving the areas closest to the engine untouched. We hope to a removable 2-piece set-up; one for the front (near the glass west-to-east) and one big piece that forks around the dual actuators (north and south).
They are crap, there is a company that make stronger aftermarket one but I forget the name. I might have a drivers side laying around still.
It appears to be a problem with all Mitsubishi/Chrysler cars that use this type of door handle and they tend to break off. The cars in question are Eclipse/Talon/Sebring. I saw a Dodge truck with such a handle but it had a support bar that attaches to both arms. In my case, I waited until both handles broke off thus I had no choice but to replace them @ $20 buck a handle and $40 bucks to install.
Originally posted by madcurl: The cars in question are Eclipse/Talon/Sebring.
And Dodge Avenger. If you keep the car long enough for the handles to break again you should look into the aftermarket handles, they are around $12 each and some parts stores actually carry the drivers side but will have to order the passenger side.
A few tweaks have been added to the Fiero. Flush door handles, side moldings and mirrors are painted yellow, bigger brakes with chrome plated calipers.
Got a couple ideas for the actuators for the decklid to fill in the slotted holes.
1: that hair stuff you see around auto shifters. 2: a piece of rubber slit in the middle 3: a Shifter boot.
I like the fact that ..... you can't leave well enough alone and drive your car, so you take it upon yourself to continue the progress.
One Question though. is there any ability for your engine to rock compared to the body? If so you might want to watch your clearances when making your fill panels.
Got a couple ideas for the actuators for the decklid to fill in the slotted holes.
1: that hair stuff you see around auto shifters. 2: a piece of rubber slit in the middle 3: a Shifter boot.
I like the fact that ..... you can't leave well enough alone and drive your car, so you take it upon yourself to continue the progress.
One Question though. is there any ability for your engine to rock compared to the body? If so you might want to watch your clearances when making your fill panels.
Actually, a 2" lip will be added within the actuator slots. The distance needed for engine (rocking) is noted thus no actual lip has been added in these critical areas (inside cut-outs near the sterring pump and throttle plate). The flat areas (throttle and actuator) will have cut-outs for wire mesh thus eliminating a cookie cutter favor. The strut plates too will have cut outs. Once performed- grinding of all sharp and welded corners.
I like where this is going,But i must ask will this make for temp problems with low air movement ?
Vents and mesh screens are in the making, hehe. However, with all of the chrome inside the engine compartment- it's gonna be a bit hotter than normal. Here's a sneak peak. the inserts are sitting and not flush against the inner wall.
Moving right along, but like a turtle. I was busy all day, but back at the ranch- WCF performed a excellent job with the actuator flange lips. The 1" lip adds depth to the inserts.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 11-13-2009).]
Steve (WCF) started the tap-outs and holes for the hex bolts. Also the needed openings for the wiring. Next week the plenum vents will be added followed by wire mesh in certain areas in and around the inserts for better venting.
I haven't decided on what type of design for the connection piece, but I'll come up with something.
Time to get busy! Steve (WCF) is busy welding 4-plenum vents on top of the insert pieces at a 45 degree angle. Also, Steve had a great idea regarding the flat strut plat. We're exaggerating the openings near the strut actuator. Those opening should draw the eyes away from the some-what flat strut plates thus keep the eyes moving. Prior to adding the intake housing we need to add the trunk's back plate too.
In the meantime- a left over pic.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 11-16-2009).]
WCF was really busy this with other projects so we're a bit behind on the strut tower plates. No biggie, steve was able to add a few tweaks to the strut towers. Granted, the latest tweaks are mainly for looks and to draw one's eyes away from the flat area cause the actuators don't need the cut-outs. Steve and I were thinking about adding a strut bar to break-up the flat area.
Plenum vents in place; on Wednesday welding the part in place.
Not 100% sure regarding engine/plate clearance. I might remove additional material for added safety issues.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 11-18-2009).]
Update: Due to the resent storm in the Bay Area I was unable to head out to WCF for strut tower caps, but Steve and I came up with a nice design using Troy boy’s stainless steel grill wire mesh. I lay down a nice pattern that followed the contour of the various flat areas in and around the flat strut caps, throttle plate, and near the power steering pump. I hope to pick these items up on Monday and then off to the chrome shop.
The items left to finish are; the trunk, intake, and a design to cover over the transmission area. I decided not to use a strut tower brace since the backend doesn't need it and I'm ready to move onto other areas of the car.... like the nose. I'll need to order a set of custom spark plug wires from CHRF
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 11-21-2009).]
The drive down WCF was nice late last night with no issue. I finally got a change to stop by WCF late this evening due to UPS holding me up all day. Anyway, the Beautification build is coming along nicely. Steve got around to cutting and welding the plenum vents onto the insert pieces.
Also (thanks to Troyboy) we'll be using wire mesh for the cut-outs;
A Small section (behind the plenum vents) will have wire mesh (the area behind the opening isn't cut-out... yet).
Also, Steve continued the 1" welds around the insert piece that surrounds the power steering pump.
Insert piece;
angled for depth and visual FX
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 11-24-2009).]
, but 2-years of fiberglass and dirt build-up in the engine compartment was too much for me to bare, especially with a glass rear hatch, but I'll be right back on it in a few weeks. 
It just keeps getting better and better. 
the inserts are sitting and not flush against the inner wall.
