Madcurl, I love your work. I think this is the first time I've posted in here but it's certainly not the first time I've ogled your pictures.
Bubbajoe is right about the e-brake caliper. The actuating lever only moves the inboard pad closer to the rotor. Once it makes contact, the entire caliper must be able to slide over so the outboard pad can pinch the rotor between itself and the inboard pad. I have these same puck-calipers installed on my 29 hot rod's Jag rear end. Here's a picture of what the bracket should look like:
I'd also like to point out that if you decide to remake the brackets, you should consider designing them without any joggles and much beefier where they mount to the hub if you plan on using them for anything other than a "hill-hold" or parking brake. If you try to stop the car with the design you're currently using, the forces exerted on the offset bracket will apply a moment (or a twisting force) and without sufficient torsional rigidity in your "long-arm" design, it will likely result in it becoming cockeyed and jamming against the rotor at an angle the first time you use it hard.
Edit to add: As an example of what the hot rod's e-brake caliper braket looks like, I dug up this old sketch... maybe it'll help you.
[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 03-18-2011).]
that is the wrong way to install that caliper it is a floating caliper and it has 2 groves one on each side for the floating bracket the way you have it mounted will ware the front shoe off in no time look in my thread and you will see how it is suposed to be mounted shame on you
He's right Curley. The inside pad will wear out quickly & the outside pad will rattle as you're driving down the road.
i hope you are going to put a heat shield between the wire and loom and the cat as that cat runs at 1200 degrees and the plastic melts at 300
Oh I have a plan for that.
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:
and here they are here is the simple bracket needed to install the caliper. If you use the 88 to 96 rear caliper it has the Ebrake on it and will save you time and money so you wont have to buy the manual ebrake caliper that I did This is the extra bracket needed if you use the 84 to 87 caliper This bracket is not needed with these calipers this is the 2 brackets used with the 84 to 87 caliper the 88 to 96 dose not require the rear caliper bracket this is all you install for the 88 up caliper
Thank you Sir.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 03-19-2011).]
So I can use the e-brake bracket from the 84-87 or purchase this one?
This is the extra bracket needed if you use the 84 to 87 caliper
I made these using the hurst airhart slider and a piece of 1/4 plate the airhart slider comes with the calipers when you by them here from princess auto
I made these using the hurst airhart slider and a piece of 1/4 plate the airhart slider comes with the calipers when you by them here from princess auto
Thanks.
Meanwhile, the engine beautification is complete. Moving onto the front compartment to add more pop and bling!
I see you have not fixed the ebrake caliper yet bad move
Nope. We haven't, but we talked, but spring is near.
We shall test the device next week on Chris's Fiero (manual). There's several hills in town to test the system. If it works-its stays. If it bends, squeeks, and/or breaks it will be replaced. As for the e-pad replacments-I have a box of them. Of course we did remove the gay-like appearance of the attachment.
Does California have anything against paddle shifters? Sorry you may have answered this before but I could not stop drooling at the pics. Your car is AutoPornography!
We shall test the device next week on Chris's Fiero (manual). There's several hills in town to test the system. If it works-its stays. If it bends, squeeks, and/or breaks it will be replaced. As for the e-pad replacments-I have a box of them. Of course we did remove the gay-like appearance of the attachment.
Didn't know you were testing anything on my Fiero, but sure go ahead, you can test anything you want on my Fiero, but please, once you test it, leave it on.
Does California have anything against paddle shifters? Sorry you may have answered this before but I could not stop drooling at the pics. Your car is AutoPornography!
-Chris
I only know of one person, but they maybe more.
quote
Originally posted by MountainHiBlue87GT:
This is the blue car in the posts above.
Almost finished -Last major mods: Champion Alumium Radiator, Drive by Wire Cruise Control, 4T65E HD Tapshift Rebuilt with many hard parts and soft parts from Triple Edge, Tap Shift wiring, Wester's PCM programming for Tap Shift and performance, Snow Performance Boost Cooler, some chrome from Mad Curls chrome shop, stainless grill inspired by Madcurls recent work, and ?
Today we briefly tested the E-brakes on Chris's car. Chris applied the E-brakes and we both pushed (Chris at the drivers door and me in the rear) to see if the car would move. Using two people you could hear the E-brake clamp down on the rotors, but the car does move ever so slightly. Using one person to push the car doesn't move. Simply, there isn't enough surface and/or lock pressure using the hand brake to hold the car in place with the E-brake engaged on a steep hill or in a emergency were you need to stop on a dime.
In the case of an emergency the E-brakes might slow you down, but in no way will it lock-up. At best the E-brakes will slow you down, but nothing that would stop you dead in your tracks. I need to test these results on #011 since it uses the correct arm, but I have to wait for pads since they're worn out too.
#011 worn pads
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 04-11-2011).]
I think I might have a solution for ya. I'll try looking it up again, I didn't have much luck last time, but I'll give it a shot. I used to drift/race with a 240sx, and although I did not perfect the Keiichi Tsuchiya e-brake manuver ( I used speed to my advantage ), many others did. And they used a type of e-brake design that was manually operated yet hydraulically actuated. So, this system used their actual rear brake calipers, and brake lines to apply brakes (at full 100% capacity) to the rear calipers only. I took a closer look at the system which had vavles and a master cylinder directly attached to the e-brake handle, then hydrauic lines that somehow through a valve bypassed the normal brake line pressure and applied its own braking pressure through the rear caliper brake line. Now their system was designed differently than the fiero e-brake handle, but could work, with a little tweaking, anything can be done. Let me see if I can find more information on this system.
Without a doubt those are interesting... but in any State with annual inspections, they wouldn't pass for E-brakes if they were tied into the hydraulics of the main calipers. E-brakes have to be independent of the main hydraulic system. What would be neat though would be to connect one of those hydraulic E-brake handles up to a pair of hydraulic motorcycle calipers that were wide enough to bridge the vented rotors.
Without a doubt those are interesting... but in any State with annual inspections, they wouldn't pass for E-brakes if they were tied into the hydraulics of the main calipers. E-brakes have to be independent of the main hydraulic system. What would be neat though would be to connect one of those hydraulic E-brake handles up to a pair of hydraulic motorcycle calipers that were wide enough to bridge the vented rotors.
Your probably right, I don't know that much about the laws when building a street car. And the only cars I've seen these on are track cars. In Arizona, we don't have a detailed inspection unless the car has a salvage title, infact I'm just not going to say anything to the DMV here once my engine has been swapped in, I'm going on a limb and assuming that it is a different story in Cali.
After talking with Chris he suggested two options. One was to use Brembo Viper e-brake kit. They're pretty and should stop a car on a dime, but they are not cheap.
Giving the situation I'm in (N* automatic and to pass inspection) -I think I'll use the spot e-brakes for now. It's not like inspector is going to drive my car off and go power sliding or drifting in the parking lot to pass. As Chris mentioned the e-brake bracket grade of material should be made of thicker material, but since the clapping power is so weak it surely won't come close to bending the bracket. However, it would be nice to have a e-brake system that can stop on a dime. Just to add; I also reviewed the e-brake for the Lamborghini on Ebay. They want $400 per side-I don't think so.
Okay, time to move onto another subject. I'm giving WCF the okay with the P/S. I talked it over with Troyboy and we both agreed-"get the darn power steering unit." Therefore all three chop tops are equal.
Also, I need to get back to designing the underbelly around the driver's side dash.
As of now-spending 1k for E-brakes will have to go on the back burner. I need to get the car painted and move on.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 04-12-2011).]
there is not a production car on eath that will stop dead with the ebrake it is there as a hill holder and desined to slow a car with brake failure if they where to stop on a dime your dead the car would spin wildly out of control as 90% of your braking is done by the front wheels
there is not a production car on eath that will stop dead with the ebrake it is there as a hill holder and desined to slow a car with brake failure if they where to stop on a dime your dead the car would spin wildly out of control as 90% of your braking is done by the front wheels
You must not of driven a 240sx, they will lock up the rear wheels at 60 mph. I know I tried.
WCF really surprised me this week. I was expecting at least 3-weeks to gather all of the components for the P/S rack, but WCF already had a rack on hand plus the have a template for the system. Next week they'll perform the piping and hook up. Meanwhile, I got around to the passenger side of the dash. Steve used the template from the driver's side and flipped the pattern. Yes, for now the parts look crude, but like the engine compartment I have some ways to go.
Please excuse the intrusion on your thead, but I'm almost positive there's supposed to be some kind of rubber between the rack mounts and the rack.. I may be wrong, but it seems strange to me to have the steel wrapped directly around the aluminum rack like that..
If I'm wrong, sorry about that, but it just looks like something's missing..
Please excuse the intrusion on your thead, but I'm almost positive there's supposed to be some kind of rubber between the rack mounts and the rack.. I may be wrong, but it seems strange to me to have the steel wrapped directly around the aluminum rack like that..
If I'm wrong, sorry about that, but it just looks like something's missing..
Correct. They needed to move my car off the rack inorder to complete another car that arrived. So the rack was quickly mounted and rolled outside. On WCF website demonstrates the rubber sleeve.
The same rack that is on either a Firebird or Camero (both cars use the same one) and the years too are the same from the last procduction 2002-on back.
I smell paint. Jet black paint! I was at Trenzs paint shop going over the details. Jet black is my choice for #020. I have a few more hardware issues to complete at WCF before paint.
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