Well with the noid light installed, I was able to prove that the injectors are getting a signal to fire while the engine is warm. However the light is quite faint, like 1/3 the brightness when compared to the brightness flashes while the engine is running - is this normal? I was expecting it to be dimmer while cranking but not that faint. It still starts on quik start, so I'll back to suspecting the Optispark, Optispark harness or the charging system. Next I'm going to try a new battery with a much higher CCA rating or maybe even a deep cycle type. The reason I am thinking this is because if I shut it off warm it is now restarting if I try it immediately. I can do this about 3-4 times in a row before it goes back to a no start condition. After the next 3-4 tries with no success, the cranking speed drops dramatically. Keep in mind that I still don't believe it's a heat soaked starter as mine isn't in the stock location and I'm using hugger shorty headers that don't pass near the starter.
Any further suggestion or questions would be appreciated.
How is the Por15 working you. I am thinking about using it for my project when i refinish the birdcage top and bottom. but i am still looking around for other stuff to use
Originally posted by ProjectPb: WOW Nice Build How is the Por15 working you. I am thinking about using it for my project when i refinish the birdcage top and bottom. but i am still looking around for other stuff to use
Thanks, welcome to the forum... So far the front suspension in POR15 is holding up well - it doesn't work well unless you prep well - I would use it again in the future probably on the cradle since the cheap truck bed liner spray didn't hold up as good as I had hoped.
Some good news:
"I'm not sure if I've found the root cause yet, but after installing a 875 CCA battery today and removing the 650 CCA unit, I haven't been able to get it to not start when hot. So for now the problem seems to bandaided as I was able to restart the engine a dozen times with no issues from normal temp all the way up to hot on the guage. The new battery definately cranks the Powermaster 9004 starter quicker than the Optimax Red Top did."
With that problem disappearing, I decided to clean the Beretta rims I got from Bubbajoe to install on the Roadster. I had the Toyo tires installed on them - hmmm, since the SHREK colour doesn't match, I plan to repaint them black or graphite before installation. Here they are cleaned up:
If anyone wants my stock rims and tires, send me a PM. They are good for storing your Fiero on and I'm asking $50 for the set with trim rings and centre caps:
Of course I got more Fiero goodies while visiting Bubbajoe to go towards the Roadster project:
Heavy duty sway bars front and rear:
Accel Super Coil:
Blower motor to keep my engine bay cooler:
And a "Trick or Treat" box of other good stuff:
Bubba - hoping to bring the stretch up to your place Friday to go for a ride, return your noid lights, and complete the hood swap. Just bracing the battery tray first and then I'll be good to go. Ryan
Here he is with the new rims (without new lugs and centre caps yet).
I added 3/4" ground clearance...
but REALLY filled the wheelwells as (suggested above)
Unfortunately at full lock turning or under hard braking, (if there is such a thing with stock brakes ) the tires do rub the fender flares. The last time I had these tires on was prior to lowering springs and they didn't rub. So I prepped a pair of 84 Indy springs I had taken out of the Northstar Stretch. Next, I painted them to colout match the HT Motorsports rear adjustable coilovers:
Here they are ready for the spring swap - should be a relatively quick job since the front suspension was rebuilt last winter:
The rears will be easier because I will adjust the spring seats until the car sits level:
The last time I had the rear ride height higher, I damaged an axle boot on the short drivers side:
Since I don't want to repeat that - before I proceed, I'm going to lower the transmission. The mod will be a shorter solid trans mount to replace the taller Caddy rubber one. Here's a pic of the mount I'm referring to:
If I can't find something suitable I'll make one, although it looks like I can't go much lower without creating a clearance issue between the axle boot and the cradle:
I've been meaning to replace the trans mount anyways because I don't like the idea of mixed mounts (the front engine mount is an Archie solid mount).
Ride height adjustments complete. Front springs installed:
Didn't lower trans as upon closer inspection, it is already dropped as far as possible and new CV boots are holding up well and not leaking:
Rear coilovers were raised 10 rotations each side (approx 1 inch):
Here are a few shots of the finished ride height - there is now one finger space from the top of tire to fender flare at all four corners. Tires are tucked inside flares enough that clearance issues are now solved:
Today I uncovered the Roadster and fired it up and after a warm up period went for a cruise! I covered about 20 miles with a mixture of city/highway driving. Yes it was only just above freezing out but very sunny. I've never had an issue staying warm as the heater and LT1 kept me so warm I didn't need a coat. I just wore a Michigan University hoodie but I did keep the windows up for once.
The test drive went well, as no tire clearance issue, engine ran smooth with no stalling - I think it likes the cold weather! Then I worked on the no start when warm condition. I was able to get the no start condition to happen idling the car for 10-15 minutes then letting it sit in its own heat for 5 minutes with the decklid closed. With the theory of vaporizing fuel being the cause, I pulled the intake off and gave one shot of fuel in each side of the throttle body using a spray bottle. Turning the key after that and it fired to life instantly and kept idling fine. A repeatedly the test a few more times to make sure it wasn't a fluke and it solved the problem each time.
Next I'm going to reroute the fuel lines so they don't pass above the wrapped header (maybe through the insulated trunk instead). Then I'm going to install this electric blower to suck the heat out of the engine compartment and exhaust out the back of the lower trunk.
My plan is to complete this Roadster project by the spring and use as my driving Fiero this year. Then I can focus on the planned mods for the Northstar Stretch Hatchback project. Fiero2m8
The fuel system was rerouted and new filter installed and although that was a good idea anyways, it didn't solve the problem. I really should have known because the fuel lines always were fine before the engine developed this condition about 6 months ago.
The problem is still there when warm and it also stalls by itself unless kept at a high idle. (1000-1100 rpm vs. 700-800)
I hooked up fuel pressure guage and vacuum guage. The fuel pressure is always reading 47-48 while cranking and idling. When it won't start two squirts of fuel in the TB always works to start it.
I spent some time watching the vacuum guage while idling. The guage moves from 12-15 Hg (just in the green section) right after you start it warm but as soon as the ECM tries to settle the idle down, the vacuum drops to 5Hg and it stalls. When I raise the idle to 1000-1100 by adjusting the throttle plate it doesn't stall, but when the throttle plates are closed and the engine is drops below 900 rpm it stalls everytime once the engine is at operating temp.
I might be having problems with the PROM tune or perhaps a vacuum leak? The engine rebuilder told me that the cam he chose would affect my vacuum but I submitted a new data sheet to have a new PROM made and it worked for almost a year. Maybe the 48mm TB is too small?
I really am stuck on the diagnosis and don't know what to check next. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I'm hoping I've found the problem - a bad IAC. Just ordered a new one and we'll see if that helps:
Last night I found this 1983 drawing - wow it looks like my Roadster with the moulded in flares, 16" rims, lowered and rear spoiler. I had even thought about raising the door skins too!:
Car Craft Magazine December 1983 article is called P-Dazzled. Duane Kuchar created 6 drawings in all and they were reprinted in the 1st Quarter 1996 Fiero Owner Mazagine. The six themes of the artwork drawings are: 1. Widebody 2. Front engine dragster 3. Roadster (shown above) 4. Hatchback 5. Speedster 6. Targa
I can start a new thread in General of them all if you like Dan.
New IAC installed and the LT1 idles better but the no start when warm condition still occurring. I'm going to do a data log with the scanner and fill out a new sheet to compare with the one sent to Mark at Street and Performance. For some reason the engine doesn't get enough gas during a warm restart as two sprays in the throttle body solves the problem...
I'm going to try unplugging the MAP sensor when it's warm to see if it will start. Not sure what else to check, cause I changed O2 sensors and CTS already. What else controls air/fuel mixture during warm start - I'm thinking EGR if stuck open?
Idle hunts 750-950 in park Temp 191 degrees F Voltage 12.5V IAC 49 - Learned IAC 32 INJ P.W. 3.5 (both banks) Spark advance 26 degrees Fuel Trim 18 cell yes enable LT Bank 2 142 - lean from 128 LT Bank 1 148 - lean from 128 TPS 0.64v @ 0% throttle (I adjusted it up from 0.35v)
Well I spoke at length with Mark today and he wants me to install new 24.9lb/hr fuel injectors. I am also going to remove all header wrap and take digital laser temp readings of each header tube. From there I can take more scanner readings and determine whether either of my PROM tunes will work or if a 3rd is required. I haven't given up yet but the hard start when warm condition has been going on since last summer and I'm nearing the end of my patience
Is this a new problem? I had the same issue because I wired my ecm for switched power to the ecm constant power. It would start cold fine but I had to use the gas pedal to start it when warm.
Originally posted by joshua riedl: Is this a new problem? I had the same issue because I wired my ecm for switched power to the ecm constant power. It would start cold fine but I had to use the gas pedal to start it when warm.
Thanks I'll add that to the things to double check - I did have the engine out so anything is possible. I found a pretty good section online of a GM service manual that discusses port injection symptoms. The hard starting and engine hunting troubleshooting should be good reference sections.
Yesterday I made a little progress. I was able to determine that a slightly loose PROM chip was causing some starting issues affecting the fuel pump and spark intermittently. I replaced the cork on the access cover to ensure it stays snug in place with the cover on. Also, I went under the car and found yet another exhaust leak at the header / collector flange. I removed all the header wrap permanently and I'm picking up some copper gaskets this week. I've also ordered new stock 24.9lb/hr Fuel Injectors to replace the Accel 26lb/hr ones since the LT fuel trim was in the 140's for both banks (lean). Also warm hard starts are solved by two squirts of gas in the TB - the old injectors seem to be causing the lean condition. Apparently it's pretty common for old Accel's to cause hard starting - hopefully replacing them fixes my problem.
The new fuel injectors solved the hard starting problem Yesterday I also upgraded the header/collector gaskets to the copper ones I had previously ordered.
[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 03-29-2009).]
Not to sound mean or anything, but you think the fiero will ever get a coat of paint on it??? Maybe that v-8 just dont like primer and its mad that it is pushing around a dull primer fiero, lol...
Not to sound mean or anything, but you think the fiero will ever get a coat of paint on it??? Maybe that v-8 just dont like primer and its mad that it is pushing around a dull primer fiero, lol...
Nah! No sense in spending money on the paint. Simply because this car is going ot blow that fresh coat right off the first time it goes down the road. Right, Ryan?
Nah! No sense in spending money on the paint. Simply because this car is going ot blow that fresh coat right off the first time it goes down the road. Right, Ryan?
I know it's still an eyesore but I kept modding the body and hate sanding, so I figured get the mechanical side right first. Unfortunately I lost my job last week, so now I have more time to work on it but no money My goal is to have the car all black before the summer.
I know it's still an eyesore but I kept modding the body and hate sanding, so I figured get the mechanical side right first. Unfortunately I lost my job last week, so now I have more time to work on it but no money My goal is to have the car all black before the summer.
I hope you didn't take me wrong. I just ment that the car is going to be sooooo fast that it will peel that fresh coat of paint off. I didn't mean anything about how the car was unfinished.
No problem Paul, I knew what you meant. I was trying to give marlboroman an update. Cheers, Ryan
LOL! You had me sweatin' for a second there. I thought I PO'd a big guy from Canada. You shoulda kept those "joker" wheels and paint the car purple. J/K I can't wait to see that roadster finished.
My baby had to spent another winter outside and I noticed a few minor fiberglass cracks, so I took some time redoing and improving the problem areas...
Sunday I was able to get the Roadster out on a cruise through Niagara with several other southern Ontario Fiero's and had a great time. We started in Port Dalhousie and drove to Niagara-on-the-Lake and then took the parkway through Niagara Falls and to Fort Erie. OHNIKO even took us to an empty parking lot where I was able to get a few donuts in... Here's a shot from the final destination at Fort Erie:
Last night a fellow Fiero enthusiast came down from Stoney Creek to see the Roadster. He is interested in buying and completing the project since I've run out of money due to losing my job. With all the hours I've spent and around $15K I've invested over the years, I would be sad to see it go. But if I can find a good home for it and someone "shows me the money" I'll going to take $6K for it. I'll keep you updated and maybe a new owner will keep the project alive on Pennocks.
Phew Dan, he didn't have the money so I'm going to focus on selling the Red 84 2m4 instead.
Yesterday I tackled a reoccuring computer problem. It turned out to be a loose PROM chip in the ECM. I made up a new piece to replace the cork that keeps the chip snug when the access cover is on - all good now.
A few more updates of the "Rat Rod" paint for this summer.
If I still have the car in the fall - I'm getting quotes from bodyshops to finish it right over the winter. In the meantime it will be all black - finally
Hey Ryan, I was re-reading the whole thread last night and wow, you have done a great job. You're just down the road from me, do you think one day I could check out the car. One idea I had was to convert my 86GT into a roadster and I would like to see all the work that is involved. Don't sell it!!!!! Things will pick up!!!
Hey Ryan, I was re-reading the whole thread last night and wow, you have done a great job. You're just down the road from me, do you think one day I could check out the car. One idea I had was to convert my 86GT into a roadster and I would like to see all the work that is involved. Don't sell it!!!!! Things will pick up!!!
Thanks, it was quite a bit of work and probably wouldn't do another one (although I learned so much it would take much less time the second time)... I'm up your way on Wednesday evenings alternating between CameronMotorsports on Upper James St. near the Hamilton airport or Mapleview mall for cruise night. Weather like today makes me want to keep it, so I am trying to sell my 3rd Fiero instead here: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/047233.html
I missed out on the SOFA Ipperwash cruise Sunday (I wasn't ready to go until noon as I was performing an alignment in the morning and later misplaced my wallet for a while!) After I found it and calmed down, I decided to take the Roadster to Nickel Beach Port Colborne Lake Erie as a backup event. Everyone was impressed that I was only of the only vehicles that didn't get stuck in the deep sand thanks to my off road experience when I sold Jeeps and lots of throttle I love bringing the Roadster to the beach as I meet many former Fiero owners and get to provide the tunes (of my selection) for everyone Although I missed the SOFA gang at least I saved gas $$$ on this trip - here are a few of the pics, enjoy
[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-16-2009).]
After re-reading this thread for the umpenth time, I have moved forward with my LT1/4T60 project. It will not be as cool as your roadster but all your work has motivated me to finish. I have test run the engine on it's cradle and made a few changes. I am running Holley Pro Jection rather than stock injection and have it working with nothing but a 12 volt feed. Runs and sounds great. I am still going over all your pictues and have re-printed many of them for references.
Thank you once again for taking so much time to document and point out the problems for those of us who are not quite as adept.
Looking good!
) the tires do rub the fender flares.
Right, Ryan?
