Originally posted by tuner2m6t: Glad to be of service to you and I am glad everything worked out good for you. Loved the story and always look forward to seeing more of them from you.
Thank you tuner2m6t
What an appropriate opening 4 page 2 (by thread originator)
[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 10-05-2007).]
Finally installed the (CJB) T-Top trunk straps. I know well, that most of T-Top owners store their glass windows behind the seats, it doesn't work for me. So, here we go.
A quick coat of fresh "Anti Rust" paint on the brackets
In the original 88 CJB cars the top strap bracket hole is about 1" below the trunk light. If (like me) you're installing it on an 84-86 car, you'll have to drill just between the trunk light and the plastic blower tube running below it.
If you drill horizontally the drill bit should come out just fine on the other side (no wires or tubes)
I decided to install the bottom bracket 1/2 under the trunk carpet, this way the bottom bolt is hidden under the carpet. Made a 1" cut in the bottom of the carpet.
Slide in the bracket and drill down through the bracket hole.
Added some anti rust paint to all drilled holes and some silicon for good measure.
I recommend using SS bolts since the lower bolts would be exposed to water (and salt) once again some rust paint and silicon.
Completed view of the install
For comparison, here is a regular install, where you see the bottom bolts. (Thanks to 'SwissFormula' for the help with the pictures)
Top strap bolt, I decided to go with a round top for looks. (disregard the broken tab on the trunk light )
Lower bolt (hidden) and bracket
All is well, T-Tops are safely secured in the trunk
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[This message has been edited by Mister (edited 10-05-2007).]
Well well... It's been almost a year since the T-Top installation and finally I've got myself to making some minor fixes and install the P-Seals. Long story short - somewhere in the Canadian postal system there is a box with a set of P-seals that someone is going to find someday...Tim from http://www.fieroparts.com was kind to resend a new set for the cost of the shipping only
Front P-Seal just sticks to the front trim and then you drill / punch the original rivet / screw holes through the thin aluminum backing and reinstall.
The instructions mention a location to tuck in the leftover edges, I found that folding inwards the 1cm that is left does the job and looks O.K.
Had to do some minor realignment of the B-Pillar - B-Butt Joint, glue and reseal.
Rear P-Seal install is more of the same story
Final look. I think I might have took the instructions too literally and installed the seals 1mm too high but after pressing the silicon strip (inside the seal) down it looks better and fills the gap better. There are still some gap areas that I'll have to figure out.
second time i read this write up, i enjoyed it this time as well I think that if i could have any notchie on the forum it would be yours, everything done to it seems so appropriate
Originally posted by pswayne: If you have a t-top car, I've come up with a cheap substitue for p-seals that works (the wind noise is less with them). I did an article about it on the Georgia Fiero Club web site, on this page.
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Originally posted by JesseM: second time i read this write up, i enjoyed it this time as well I think that if i could have any notchie on the forum it would be yours, everything done to it seems so appropriate
Yep, I don't like the prices that people are charging for the gaskets or P-seals. I use the gaskets and P-seals for the 86 Ford Mustang T-tops. I would have to dig up the receipts, but I believe, I paid $180.00 for the two seals and the two gaskets, shipped to my house. C&C made the T-tops for those cars as well. I did have to rework the gasket at the B-pillar. But that was it. The reproduction P-seals for the Mustang, look better than the old Fiero P-seals, to me. They are solid black rubber with a felt like material glued on. I got my Mustang parts from CJ Pony Parts. http://www.cjponyparts.com/
Are you referring to the gasket seals that go around the perimeter of the door and T-Top? Was there ever a write up on how to modify these Mustang gaskets?
[This message has been edited by sjmaye (edited 08-12-2008).]
Originally posted by sjmaye: Are you referring to the gasket seals that go around the perimeter of the door and T-Top? Was there ever a write up on how to modify these Mustang gaskets?
There are a bit more details on page 1.
It was done by 3.8 SC and Yes, he is referring to the Weather Seals. he used the 86 Mustang that had C&C T-tops. This is the only thread I know of:
This was posted by another member on another thread, I think it's worth posting here to keep some good info at one place. Credit to FieroCustom
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Originally posted by FieroCustom:
Ok, I just snapped and edited some pictures for posting, so here goes, a little introduction to the difference between CJB and non-CJB t-tops. With a couple pictures of the glass seals so you can tell the difference. 88 CJB glass, note the Cars & Concepts logo on it: This is a non-CJB glass, it also has a Cars & Concepts log on it: This is the union of the CJB glass seal and the CJB B-pillar seal: This is the union of the CJB glass seal and the CJB A-pillar seal: This is the union of a NON-cjb glass seal to my CJB B-pillar seal: (note the shallower angle of the glass seal, the non-cjb door seals are bigger than CJB to fill in that gap) This is the union of a NON-cjb glass seal to my CJB A-pillar seal: This is the B-pillar side of my CJB glass seal: This is the B-pillar side of a NON-cjb glass seal: This is the A-pillar side of my CJB glass seal: This is the A-pillar side of a NON-cjb glass seal: (Note the different shape of the front of the seal) This is the start of the CJB door seal, just below the A-pillar: This is the CJB door seal at the peak of the A-pilllar: This is the CJB door seal at the peak of the B-pillar: This is the CJB door seal at the midpoint of the B-pillar Ok, everyone knowledgeable about T-tops check these out, please let me know if any of this information is wrong. My car does have the CJB code, and I'm going under the assumption that the door seals and driver's side glass are actually CJB. That is what was passed down to me when I bought car. Passenger side glass is different because original owner broke passenger top. To my knowledge, the passenger side glass is non-CJB. Sleebie, I hope this helps you find matching glass and seals, because you want to be able to put these on if it rains without having to bail out your car.
I need to replace the t top seals on my 87 and am considering the cjponyparts WSTT6 seals for an 86 Mustang. Has anybody else installed these and do they leak? Also, will the Mustang seals for the glass panel work on the Fiero?
Originally posted by bowrapennocks: I need to replace the t top seals on my 87 and am considering the cjponyparts WSTT6 seals for an 86 Mustang. Has anybody else installed these and do they leak? Also, will the Mustang seals for the glass panel work on the Fiero? Thanks Jim
Reading this really motivates me to do the restoration on the T-top I just acquired. Funny thing that when I got the car I saw those black seatbelts in the trunk and wondered who the hell would put something like that there. Not knowing I threw to the trash one piece of it
As the owner of #689, T-Tops make a Fiero!!! I have owned verts before but the T-Top is much cooler imho! Glad your enjoying yours and great build thread!
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**************************************** 88 Formula CJB Arrived Finally. #689 of 1252 Time to start Working TONY! There are Two kinds of Fiero's : Notchies and Donors!
What a great thread !! Well, I have taken the plunge.I have just got ahold of a complete t-top out of a '85 fiero SE I had found at a u-pull-it nearby. I even have a insurance card with the vin and it is a non-cjb? (no c&c anywhere), I went to the registry and found that out.The only thing is 1 broken handle (driver's side) , but I found it inside the car and think I can repair it. the seals look good, came out in one piece.I cut the entire roof off to save all the pieces. only the p- seals are toast.This will be going into a '88 formula. I also got all the interior trim plus a good dash. Now , what to do with the complete sunroof I have for it .........gotta round up all those parts!
Just an update,I did find the C&C logo on my t- tops. I was cleaning the tops today to see how good the glass was and if you angle the glass just right you can see it in the glass.Still can't believe I found this setup in the u pull-it yard.Started to take the rivets out of it also,going to get on this pretty soon.
What a great thread !! Well, I have taken the plunge.I have just got ahold of a complete t-top out of a '85 fiero SE I had found at a u-pull-it nearby. I even have a insurance card with the vin and it is a non-cjb? (no c&c anywhere), I went to the registry and found that out.The only thing is 1 broken handle (driver's side) , but I found it inside the car and think I can repair it. the seals look good, came out in one piece.I cut the entire roof off to save all the pieces. only the p- seals are toast.This will be going into a '88 formula. I also got all the interior trim plus a good dash. Now , what to do with the complete sunroof I have for it .........gotta round up all those parts!
CJB codes are 88 only. That is why you found nothing. All T-Top Fieros are C&C. The earlier kits differ to the 88 ones, but can be fitted to an 88.
MIster, Thanks for this excellent post with greater details about t-roof.
Guys, I'm thinking about buying a Fiero with t-roof and some members recommend against it b/c of leaks, squeaks, and wind noise. According to one member, t-top cars tend to have more body/chassis flex, which results in squeakiness and wind noise with the tops in, and over time facilitates leaking of water. Then the water can cause the t-top frame components around the seals to rust, which only exacerbates the issue.
A 2002 Firebird with T-tops might not be as bad, and the C6/C7 Vettes are much better with the targa roof, but I'd avoid 80s cars with T-tops like the plague.
What do you guys think? Much appreciated for any feedbacks. Thanks, Mister, for your message.
MIster, Thanks for this excellent post with greater details about t-roof.
Guys, I'm thinking about buying a Fiero with t-roof and some members recommend against it b/c of leaks, squeaks, and wind noise. According to one member, t-top cars tend to have more body/chassis flex, which results in squeakiness and wind noise with the tops in, and over time facilitates leaking of water. Then the water can cause the t-top frame components around the seals to rust, which only exacerbates the issue.
A 2002 Firebird with T-tops might not be as bad, and the C6/C7 Vettes are much better with the targa roof, but I'd avoid 80s cars with T-tops like the plague.
What do you guys think? Much appreciated for any feedbacks. Thanks, Mister, for your message.
I've got an 88 CJB. Only a few times have I got caught in the rain. No leaks. Sometimes when I wash it, there are a few drops that get in between the roof and the side windows but that would be from water under pressure.
BTW, great write up Mister.
[This message has been edited by pcgold (edited 06-23-2015).]
Well Misters car has made its way into my fleet! She will be fully restored to her old glory, with several upgrades. interior will be fully replaced with a tan interior, new 3.4 block and supercharged, manual to auto conversion (I have a 5 speed already need to diversify). New paint, lowered, clean engine bay, full zettner brake swap. Her is the progress to date. Surprisingly with 350,oookm on it shes fairly rust free, nothing in the trunk and only the lower rad support needs replacing.
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