Are you running the Comp Cams Magnum rocker arms on your gold Fiero?
Yes 1.6 roller tip on the gold one and this one has 1.6 roller top too but for a sbc. You have to use the proper nuts for a 2.8-3.1-3.4 though when you do this.
I was pleasantly surprised at how little rust this car has considering that it has 350,000 km (218,750 miles) on it! the rear trunk is clean, frame rails are decent and the undercarriage is solid. only things needing replacement are the floor drain plugs (bought Rodneys replacement plugs) and the lower rad support (found a good used one).
I do have new brake lines and im contemplating just replacing them all while im at it.
More progress! NOS auto tranny from a 1991 Chevy lumina van (better top end gearing) Mounted to cradle with engine with WCF shorty headers and Rodney dickman poly engine and transmission mounts.
[This message has been edited by jjd2296 (edited 12-22-2022).]
A little more work done today. Doesn’t seem like much but when you have to sandblast and pair rad parts it takes time! New rad housing new braces new washer and rad overflow tanks.
I seen you redid your upper control arm ball joints with Rodney’s adjustable ball joint plate. Sorry, but that plate goes under the control arm. The bolts are required to go downwards to make the UBJ adjustment made when the alignment is being set. The technician loosens the 2 upper bolts to facilitate the alignment process. It’s sorta like the 88 set up. That why Rodney made these 84-87 UBJ plates. Actually I bought a pair for the day I buy a pre-88 if that day ever comes. Never know, Rodney’s parts might not be available in 10-15 years. So I bought them. He designs / makes quality Fiero reproduction parts… Every serious Fiero owner should buy his parts for improvement, or because the parts are simply discontinued or not available through the aftermarket or GM.
Thanks for the tip. Ill flip it but I don’t think from a mechanical standpoint it makes any difference. The plate just makes adjusting the alignment easier.
The issue is you won’t be able to adjust anything because the bolts are loosened on the top to adjust / move the plate underneath with the ball joint. It’s to adjust negative and positive camber. The purpose of Rodney’s kit here is so you don’t have to reach underneath to un-tighten / tight the nuts that keep the ball joint in place. You just un-tighten / tighten the bolt on top of the ball joint as this is what the alignment tech will do. A lot easier for him. Again, it’s to facilitate the alignment job. The nuts are welded to the plate for this reason. Your ball joint will be non adjustable the way you have it install now.
custom pulleys are almost ready for the engine. Increased size of crank by .7 and reduced water pump pulley by .7 this will see me gain another 6k rpm through the entire sc boost range. I couldn't go smaller on the sc pulley as I was already at a 2.4 which is the smallest made. Im running an older V5 which max rpm is 65000. with these custom pulleys ill get the sc spinning just over 60k at 6000rpm. previously I was only hitting approx 54000 rpm with the stock pulleys.
[This message has been edited by jjd2296 (edited 02-21-2023).]
Engine is installed. some slight fitting issues but minor, just some adjustments needed with the SC tubes. coming along! the cruise control canister is touching the WCF exhaust, not sure if thats a problem or not? should I make a half canister?
[This message has been edited by jjd2296 (edited 05-08-2023).]
Been a bit since my last post. Family and work have kept Me busy. Engine all in and buttoned down. Just need to hook up trans coolant lines and master brake cylinder. Still need to get started on the interior but the headliner is done. Today was the painstaking process of swapping panels, changing key locks and doing decals.
So I ordered replacement p seals from the Mustang shop. They come with an aluminum backing that’s is fairly thick. The sticky backing isn’t all that sticky and the aluminum is difficult to form into place after making some cuts to be able to bend it accordingly. I don’t like how it looks. So I have ordered a set of P seals with 3M backing and no aluminum backing off eBay for 50 bucks for the set. Let’s see what they look like when they arrive. Here’s the link. https://www.ebay.com/itm/40...r=artemis&media=COPY
New windshield installed today. Also got the visors and front speakers installed. One more day left of hooking up a few more things then prime and try starting it!
car is running, just having issues with the transmission. it shifts but wont engage. meaning when I out it in gear nothing happens. Trying to figure out what I did wrong, I have a spare transmission just in case but I think I need to drop it out and look deeper. unless someone has another suggestion?
[This message has been edited by jjd2296 (edited 10-01-2024).]
One thing I didn’t mention. This is a t125 from a 1990lumina APV van. I assume that there isn’t anything different with it from the fiero t125 other than the gearing. Anyone have any suggestions ? Or am I wrong about this transmission?
getting ready to pull the engine and swap the tranny, but before I do does anyone have any feedback on another option? have I missed changing or adjusting something? i have read that a bad governor can cause this same problem?
[This message has been edited by jjd2296 (edited 12-08-2024).]
