Geez Nolan...You've taken your project to a whole new level...



Bob

And I own page 15..WooHoo!

[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 07-18-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Sourmug: The badges are actually two Greek 10 Drachma coins that have been hand cut. Nolan

That is just ingenious man... a real Pegasus!

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I'm always amazed at the ingenuity and talent that is on this forum. This car is looking really great. I especially love the door panels. Great work!

Thanks guys! I'll be posting some updates soon.

Nolan

A quick update:

I have cleaned up the fuel tank and installed the new 255 LPH fuel pump. Here's the before:


And the after:


The tank is nice and clean and the three hoses have been replaced with new. The tank is now reinstalled into the car, one more item off the list!

I have replaced the axle shaft seals with the new axle support bearings that I purchased from Rodney Dickman. The old seals were pried out:


It takes a little bit of effort but they come out clean.

Fun reading this.... That Ceramic paint is going to come off. I give it a year.

I hope to have a shop like yours one day where I can work on mine.

Ewww!! Nolan, I like your wheels. More info, please?

Bob

quote Originally posted by Emc209i: Fun reading this.... That Ceramic paint is going to come off. I give it a year. I hope to have a shop like yours one day where I can work on mine.

Yes is suspect that it will eventually come off but by then I may be ready for a turbo, we'll see. We purchased this house 4 years ago in part because it's on a pie shaped lot that allowed me to build a decent size garage. I don't know what it's like where you guys live but new houses up here are almost all built with attached garages on the front of the house and they are usually only about 20'X20' which is too small for what I wanted. I have never had a garage before and I think it would be hard now not to have one. I hope you end up with a nice one too someday, you'll enjoy it.

Nolan

Just did some tinkering this weekend. First off I finished all the fiberglassing for the console. I made a pocket for the billet aluminum cup holder bezel that I purchased here it is in the finished pocket:

This is the pocket and cups:



And the paint:

Once the paint is fully dried I will sand off the over-spray on the flat armrest and start covering the armrest.

Just a quick note: As I indicated earlier, I received one mismatched wheel. The vendor has sent me a replacement wheel along with the missing hardware, just incase anyone was wondering about that particular E-Bay vendor.

Nolan

Nolan you are doing some fantastic work. The mod you needed to mount the rear speakers reminded me of what I had to do. Are you going to be adding woofers behind the seats or will your door speakers be enough?

Hi Timo! How have you been?

I will be using the same small format sub and amp that Fierosound is using in this Thread
Here's a picture of the sub:

Additionally, I will be using the Stealth dash mounted tweeters:

I have also finally started to dig into the wiring for the dash swap. This is, I must confess, my weakest technical area. But, hey, I'm in this to learn so no more procrastinating. Using the stealth wiring diagrams I have started the pin-out sheets for the various connectors. Here are some pictures of the pin-outs and their actual connector. Each connector diagram is of the back of the connector where the wire enters. I hope you can use this information but of course it's at your own risk. Your gauge pod may have different features depending the car it's out of.

First off, here's the mess I'm working on and the entertainment

The next two are out of the 3000GT '92-'96 service backup electrical manual and show the approximate locations for the D series connectors in the dash and console:



The main connectors are D-03, D-04 and D-05 for the main gauge pod and D-09 for the axillary gauges.
Here's the back of the main Pod:

D-03 goes into the lower right port, D-04 into the upper right port and D-05 into the left port.
Here's the back of the Axillary gauges:

The port on the left is for the D-09 connector.

looking good! I just wish I had your patience.

Thanks Troy! I wish I had it too.

A bit of an update:

I have been working on the doors. First off I replaced the hinge pins and bushings:

Using the lift sure made it easy. I just removed the bolts attaching the door hinges to the car frame and disconnected the wiring. Make sure you mark the hinge locations before you pull the door off though.

This gives you plenty of room to work. I highly recommend this if you have a lift. Here's a shot of the reinstalled door/pins:

I have also replaced the door glass as mine had the usual scratches. The outer dew wipes were replaced as well. Here are the rivets that need to have their heads ground off:

As you can see, the one on the left is ready to be removed. The rivets are then driven out using a hammer and punch.

I didn't even break anything!
Here's all the hardware that comes off once the rivets are removed:

And the old glass removed:

There are a few plastic guides that have yet to come off in the picture above. These are just snapped into the holes in the window and can be gently pried off.

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 08-26-2007).]

I have to say Nolan, I always smile when I see there is an update to your thread. Not just for your quality of work, and innovation, which I have to say are impressive, but also for the care you take in documenting everything you do. I am pretty sure I count myself among many others when I say that yours is one of the build threads I measure others against as far as quality of info goes. Any how, keep up the great work... .and the great thread.


Rich

Rich:

Thanks for the comments. I must admit that I enjoy posting my progress and it helps me see the progress that I have made. It's a big job and it would be easy to let it slide because of it's size. Seeing the progress I have made keeps me encouraged but not as much as the encouragement I receive from other members such as you.

Thanks again.
Nolan

I have also started my LeBaron brakes. I will be using the 10* offset rear bracket for the swap. Here the brackets are all painted with high-temperature caliper paint:

And I also wanted to paint the rotors so that the exposed metal doesn't rust up right away. First the friction surfaces were masked off:

They were then painted silver with the same type of paint:

Since I am using the Camaro front calipers I removed the ridge around the hose fitting connection:



And then the metal surfaces of the calipers were cleaned with solvent and painted again with caliper paint:


The brackets were then attached to the rear knuckles:

Just a little side note (or two) on the Dodge motor mounts:
1) The little bump on the mounts are to locate them & keep from turning when tightening. Instead of grinding them off, you should drill a hole for them.
2) There is another version of the same mount that has metal flanges, to grab if the mount fails (or maybe even before). Sorry I don't know the part # for them.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Pardon my driving; I'm reloading.

Tha Driver:

Thanks for the comments. The mounts are now in place and tight and there didn't seem to be any real problems with rotation. However, I see what you mean about the bumps and how that could make a difference.

Thanks
Nolan

Just tinkering around so I thought I might as well have a look at the trunk. With the 3.4 DOHC going in I wont be keeping the fan in the trunk so this is as good a time as any to have a look at what's involved with removing it. I have never had a real good look at the trunk sheet-metal so I wasn't sure what exactly I would find. After pulling the trunk seal and the carpet here's how it looks, first the bottom:

The passenger side with the fan:

And the driver side:

A little bit of rust but not too bad at all. There is no evidence of the rust spots on the exterior surfaces. I brushed on the Rust Mort that I have been using after the spots were wire brushed. After it sits the rust starts to turn black:


The fan and the ductwork were removed and this leaves some penetrations that need to be capped. Here's the fan inlet:

and the two penetrations into the engine compartment (from the trunk side):


To cover these three areas I decided to make some sheet-metal blanks. The ductwork had two metal flanges that have rubber seals on both sides of the flange. These hold the duct in place and make the mounting points for the engine bay air tubes:

I used these as templates for the blanks:

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 09-09-2007).]

I thought that I would tackle adapting my after-market steering wheel this weekend. If you recall, I purchased this wheel some time ago:


But I did not purchase an adapter. One of my concerns is that the majority of adapters that I have seen end up moving the wheel closer to the driver. This is something that I don't want as I want it to end up in the stock position. So I thought that I would try to adapt the stock wheel mount to the after-market wheel. Here is the stock GT wheel:


As you can see there is a metal hub/mount behind a plastic shroud on the back of the wheel. There are four small rivets that hold the plastic shroud and the plastic front plate in place. These rivets are relatively loose fitting and will spin if you try to drill them out. I just used a small punch which drove the rivets through the plastic clips. Note: this will probably crack your plastic tips. Once the plastic pieces were removed there are six screws that hold the wheel to the hub and they are now accessible:

Once the screws are removed the hub is now free from the wheel:

The new after-market wheel has a large aluminum center cap that houses the horn button. This cap is held onto the wheel by six machine screw with nuts on the back of the wheel. Naturally the circumference of the circle that these screws are on is smaller than the circumference of the stock screws so they won't line up. Fortunately the two sets of screw holes are all spaced at the same angle and I was able to draw lines between the holes to help line up the stock hub. Here's a picture of the hub placed onto the new wheel to show the difference you can also see that I have marked the required hole locations with a transfer punch.

And the wheel with the hub removed showing the marks and the punch locations:

The new holes were then drilled through the wheel and counter-sunk for the hub screws:

The aluminum frame of the wheel required some grinding due to a raised burr being formed during the drilling. This won't be visible on the end product.

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 09-16-2007).]