Yes the studs are longer than stock. I bought them with the hubs so I didn't have to source them. If you ask Tony AKA Fierosound he can probably tell you where he purchased his.
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 08-08-2006).]
OK, I went out and had another look at the Stealth/Fiero combination. Here are a couple of pictures from above:
Not the best pictures but you get the idea. Surprisingly, the Stealth portion isn't all that much narrower than the Fiero console. There is however a bit of a taper to the Stealth component and coupled with the overall thinness/flatness it does have more of a sleek appearance.
So, perhaps it's possible to continue the taper while maintaining the broader base.
Or, possibly a modified Fiero shape something like this: ( the Spousal Unit is learning how to use photoshop)
I dunno....
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-28-2007).]
That abnormally large tunnel is exactly what has stumped me every time I consider a dash swap, and the reason I didn't have any good solution for you. I would want to retain the storage bin on the back wall, so everything I've considered lately has incorporated the stock center console. The best I can come up with is to flatten out that slight mound in the top of the armrest part so that you can sculpt rounder deeper curves into the two side corners. This should allow it to look narrower as a function of the more pronounced curves, and keep the flat top that the 3000gt armrest/lid has. Meanwhile, you may be able to taper the entire thing from the back forward to meet the new shift console in size. This should also keep that somewhat gentle look while slimming the piece a little more. The only problem there is that I don't know what kind of space is under the console, and I don't know how thick the walls are. There simply might not be enough room or enough material to remove.
This is the best idea I have been able to come up with, but without the pieces in front of me I really can't tell if it is even possible. At the very least I'm a darn good dreamer.
That abnormally large tunnel is exactly what has stumped me every time I consider a dash swap, and the reason I didn't have any good solution for you. I would want to retain the storage bin on the back wall, so everything I've considered lately has incorporated the stock center console. The best I can come up with is to flatten out that slight mound in the top of the armrest part so that you can sculpt rounder deeper curves into the two side corners. This should allow it to look narrower as a function of the more pronounced curves, and keep the flat top that the 3000gt armrest/lid has. Meanwhile, you may be able to taper the entire thing from the back forward to meet the new shift console in size. This should also keep that somewhat gentle look while slimming the piece a little more. The only problem there is that I don't know what kind of space is under the console, and I don't know how thick the walls are. There simply might not be enough room or enough material to remove.
This is the best idea I have been able to come up with, but without the pieces in front of me I really can't tell if it is even possible. At the very least I'm a darn good dreamer.
LOL, at least you are dreaming!
I don't think re-sculpting the stock console is an option. However, sculpting a new one using foam and possibly including some bits from other consoles and using it as a form for a fiberglass one is, I think a viable option. It would be possible to incorporate some of the tapers that you are talking about that way. I think I'm going to go and snoop around the wrecker later this week and look for some ideas.
Thanks for your posts, keep the ideas flowing.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-28-2007).]
You already have a glove box and maybe some map pockets ditch the center console and make and enclosure including a sub, i purchased mine from fibresmith it was $100 a long time ago,i got it wrapped locally at a place called cutting edge upolestery they did an amazing job.
I'm glad that you have been inspired. Now get some resin and mat and have at her!
wicked93gs:
Thanks for the compliment! I have thought about putting the window switches in the door panels, and I may end up doing that, but there is less wiring modifications to put them close to the stock location.
Comealongway:
I'm not a big fan of the console/sub configuration. But I hear what you are saying. Thanks for the name of the upolsterer, it may come in handy.
Spent about 4 hours wandering around the local Pick-n-Pull yard looking at just about every car in there. They don't usually have much newer than '98 models and few of those. Most are in the '90 to '96 range. but I managed to find some things that I think show potential.
First off I found some small vents that I may put into the two dash infills to direct air onto the door glass:
Then I found a center console that I like. It is out of a mid 90's Lincoln of all things! (I know, I know it's a Ford) The console is much narrower than the stock Fiero console but it has some interesting curves and accessories:
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-28-2007).]
It is a little rough and certainly the wrong color but that will be remedied. I will be cutting it shorter and along the curve line. I will be making a lower console piece to suit it out of fiberglass similar to what Mrfixit did in his Firebird swap: The Lincoln console has a somewhat gentler curve than the Firebird console and I think it will compliment the Stealth dash when it is all finished.
I also picked up some door panels from a 4 door mid 90's Grand Am SE. These are surprisingly close from a size stand point to the Fiero door panels: These will of course also require some modifications to match the door size and to match the shape of the dash ends.
These also have the door lock switches:
All in all I think I'm quite happy with what I picked up. What do you guys think?
Timo: They didn't have any Monte Carlo's or Lamina's with the same type of window switches. I can send you the ones I have and pick up another set later if you would like.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-28-2007).]
Timo: They didn't have any Monte Carlo's or Lamina's with the same type of window switches. I can send you the ones I have and pick up another set later if you would like.
That is OK. When you find another set then pick them up for me. It will be awhile before I really need them anywaqy. Thanks for the offer.
You really got some nice stuff there. The Lincoln console looks really good. Gave me a couple of ideas. I think I'll see what I can get around here from AUDI, Mercedes Porsche, etc. I might be able to find something.
I think I'll see what I can get around here from AUDI, Mercedes Porsche, etc. I might be able to find something.
Sure, rub it in!
Here a a couple of pictures after the door panels were cleaned up. I had the wifeoid Hold them in the door openings just to help visualize how they might look: I like the overall look! There will be some tweaking to the length and the shape and the upholstery will be gone but I like the overall effect.
I have also started to cut up the Lincoln console to start test fitting. I fact most of it has actually been trimmed away: Not much left eh? I really like the general shape and the overall appearance:
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-28-2007).]
The one problem is that it is too narrow. I cannot visualize how I can make it transition with the tail end of the Stealth console and maintain the width of the Lincoln console and have the whole thing look like it was meant to be there. So I am goint to increase the width of the Lincoln piece to match the width of the Stealth console.
I removed the rivets that held the Lincoln console and added temporary plastic spacers to increase width by 2":
I really like the effect! I will need to make a bunch of new pieces for the front of the console so that I can retain the cup holder etc. I also plan to mount the window switches into it and maybe a few other goodies.
I see foam and fiberglass in my near future! Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-28-2007).]
looking good, as always, you are drawing close to a complete interior...I especially like the grand am door panels and can easily imagine how they will merge with the dash
I honestly wasn't too sure about how that Lincoln console was going to look when you first showed it, but it seems like that widening job you did was exactly what it needed. I think it is going to look perfect sitting in there now, excellent job. I am curious what you plan to do to merge it into the firewall. will you integrate it into the computer cover like the stock setup?
I can't wait to see what you do with the Grand Am panels too. They look like a great start, but I think they are going to need something to make them "belong" with the rest of the interior. I just can't put my finger on what yet.
I'm Quite happy with the general look of the GA panels. I was very surprised when I was measuring them at the wrecker as they are very close to the Fiero panels for size.
quote
Originally posted by Toaster_Man:
I honestly wasn't too sure about how that Lincoln console was going to look when you first showed it, but it seems like that widening job you did was exactly what it needed. I think it is going to look perfect sitting in there now, excellent job. I am curious what you plan to do to merge it into the firewall. will you integrate it into the computer cover like the stock setup?
I can't wait to see what you do with the Grand Am panels too. They look like a great start, but I think they are going to need something to make them "belong" with the rest of the interior. I just can't put my finger on what yet.
Toaster_Man:
Yes I agree that widening the console was the right thing to do. I plan on carrying the console up the fire wall but it won't be as deep as the stock one. I'm going to be installing a 3.4 DOHC and the computer is in a weather proof case in the engine compartment so I don't need the room.
The GA panels are going to need to be "shifted" around a bit to fit right but I think it will work out.
Thanks for looking and for your comments guys. It's really helpful to discuss different ideas. +'s for both of you.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
Nolan can you get a pic of these 2 pictures together? I think they look really good together.
The lines compliment each other and fit the curves in the dash almost perfectly. You really have a good eye for fitting the different pieces into one style. The Sourmug style!
[This message has been edited by Fiero1Fan (edited 08-12-2006).]
Here are some comparison pictures for the door panels: The size is close but not close enough.
I've stripped the vinyl and the carpet off of the passenger door panel, and have cut in the recess for the door lever: It is being bonded with contact cement and will be reinforced on the backside with fiberglass.
I then drilled the holes for the armrest screws and temporarily attached the panel and armrest for a test fit: I did this to check the over all configuration and see what needs to move around, needs to be trimmed and also what needs to be cut off. There is a fair bit of interference where the dash and the door panel meet: The door won't close all the way as they make contact.
So, I need to trim the plastic just in front of the circle at the leading edge of the armrest. I am also going to cut the lower left corner of the GA panel and move it toward the leading edge of the Fiero panel. Then the whole lot needs to be foam filled and contoured to match the dash and then panel will be fiberglassed. I like the little circle at the armrest, it echos the round guages and will be a great place for an emblem.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
Holy Crap, Nolan. I'm gone for a week and you come up with this? It's awesome!!! While I'm spnding your money , might I suggest a DVD player/monitor for the dash, and one of Riceburner's HVAC controls mounted on the shift surround or console.
something you may want to consider....just taking the armrest/door latch area(the general big circle) and merging it with the stock fiero panel...might be less work...and since you'll need to recover the entire thing anyway...
edit: now that I look at it closer I see thats almost what you are doing, wasted post, my mistake
[This message has been edited by wicked93gs (edited 08-13-2006).]
Bob, I'm not a real audiophile so I probably won't do the DVD/monitor thing but Riceburner's HVAC controls might be a great idea. I'll have to get some dimensions from him.
wicked93gs:
You are correct, that is basically what I think I'm going to do.
Here's a few progress pictures. The next thing I did was put the bare Fiero panel back on and trace the approximate outline of the end of the dash: The curved "b" shape line is the dash while the other line is the end position of the GA panel.
I then cut up the GA panel to shift some of it around and then reattached it to the Fiero panel and placed it into position:
The circle end of the arm rest sticks out a little further than I thought and the Stealth dash end is closer to the Fiero panel than I realized. There is some room, I think, to move the whole panel in closer to the door structure once some of the now redundant Fiero brackets are removed. You can see the issue better with these pictures:
I was trying to keep the door speaker grille but I think that it is going to get cut off. I need to modify the cuts on the bottom edge of the sill and then fill the gap to make the sill continuous. I may end up cutting most of the GA panel away and mount the GA features that I like directly to the Fiero panel. I don't know how I'm really going to do this at the moment. I'm going to have to think about this.
Suggestions??
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
Why not trim 1/2 inch off the speaker grille that matches the curve of the dash and create a fiberglass fillet to make the transition?
You could use a 1/4 inch piece of masonite attached to the door panel, load it up with a bunch of modeling clay, close the door and sculpt the stuff that squeezes out. Let it harden and you've got a buck for your fiberglass mold.
Once the clay hardens, remove the masonite and that'll give you your 1/4 inch clearance.
I have decided to reconstruct the stock Fiero panel board before I get serious about modifying it. There were a number of problems that I noticed when doing the trial fitting. The upper half of the Fiero panel is stamped so that it is raised and sits out about 1/2" to 3/4" more than the lower half. This is pushing the GA armrest out more than I would like. Additionally the existing penetrations and the hand recess are making it difficult to attache the GA recess for the door latch lever. So I would like to have a uniform base to work on. Here's the stock panel:
Thinking along the lines that Icelander mentioned I went and picked up some 1/8" and 1/4" hardboard. I will use the 1/8" board to rebuild the panels. First I traced out the rough outline of the front (not the back outline) of the panel onto the hardboard, I marked it out slightly larger than the front of the panel. Then I drew a line around the top half that was strait with the lower half and using a jig saw i removed the entire raised portion and cut out the hard board. Heres the hardboard panel: I then attached it to the front of the panel using PL 400 construction adhesive. This stuff is used for sub floors, will stick to just about anything and dries tough as nails. Once again I got creative for clamping the two pieces together: Nothing like and engine block and a couple of front rotors for weight. Here's the door panel after the adhesive dried but before the new front of the panel is shaved down to the right size:
And after the "shaving" with some more Pl 400 added to the seams:
This should give me a nice uniform surface to work with.
Incidental, the hardboard was attached to the front so that the "Christmas trees" on the back can be kept. I will need to reattach the two upper ones however.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
I was thinking that it might be kinda nice to make a mold of the door panel complete with the bosses for all the panel attachments to the door. I'd leave the exterior side blank to allow people to build their own panels from there.
Would there be any reason why this wouldn't be a good idea? I know that the door panels are made of what they are for sound insulation, but some dynomat stuck to the inside would be just as efficient and less likely to sustain water damage should a weatherstrip fail.
Should I make this a separate thread?
Kendall '85 Fiero 2M4 - L4 - Isuzu 5spd. '67 LeMans/GTO - 396 - TH400 The rest aren't Pontiacs, so who cares?
[This message has been edited by Icelander (edited 08-14-2006).]
You can discuss it here if you like. Personally I'm not really interested in making molds but yes it would be handy if someone decided to do this. I don't know what the interest would be though.
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, might I suggest a DVD player/monitor for the dash, and one of Riceburner's HVAC controls mounted on the shift surround or console..JPG)
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