I bought a Fiero store subwoofer housing and and installed the Tang Band subwoofer Fierosound suggested. Works great! I connected it directly to the rear channels of my Pioneer AVIC 700 Audio/Video/Nav System. The Pioneer is set up with multiple options for connecting a sub directly to the built in amp. The Pioneer 700 is a double din unit, which I was able to fit into my Camaro dash. I bet you could get one to fit a Fiero dash as well. BTW, the Pioneer AVIC units have their own enthusiats website (AVIC411.com). Works great, thanks. Jim
If you know how it's done by any chance, on an 85, is the convenience centre supposed to be attached to the heater box with a bracket or something? How is it done?
If you know how it's done by any chance, on an 85, is the convenience centre supposed to be attached to the heater box with a bracket or something? How is it done?
Should be a bracket there - maybe not on 85's. I needed to get a later model cover with bracket for the heater core. Look back on page 1.
The upper one in this picture is what I managed to get a hold of and likely what you need too.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 12-07-2009).]
I got a new Xtant 2.2 on ebay for $129.00 delivered. I guess I can either just use one channel or I can bridge it and be careful with it. It will do until I find a 1.1i and then I can move the 2.2 to my GTO project.
Hey guys, just curious. Is there a reason why in the first picture the subwoofer tube has been removed and taped off? I don't fully understand the dynamics of a ported subwoofer vs a sealed one, but just curious what difference it makes?
I originally sealed the box to try it out, as the port is tuned to the original subwoofer. Later I came across some information from Tim.
Originally posted by timgray: ... if you are using the Tang Band speaker as mentioned in one of the other posts, stuff it loosely with the poly fill, put a little in the port tube and cut 2" of an inch off the end of the port tube to tune the box perfectly to the Tang Band 5.25" subwoofer driver.
I just finished tuning up one of these to match that box. Using the port tube with a bit of the poly fill in the tube helps to reduce velocity in the tube and makes it possible for you to tune it to the enclosure and get 35% more bass from it and make it sound better. - Tim . . I reinstalled the tube with this modification and it works "as advertised" - deeper bass. I readjusted the amplifier gain to balance the system again. Thanks Tim...
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-18-2015).]
Kicker 100W Car Audio Mono Input Sub Amp Offered originally as a dealer installed option for a specific manufacturer's original equipment sound systems, this compact Kicker subwoofer amplifier will improve the performance of almost any stock mobile stereo. The amp's features include a mono high level input (line level inputs are not included), 100 watts RMS @ 1 ohm power output, and a 150 Hz @12 dB/octave fixed low pass filter. Includes OEM connector (not shown). Dimensions: 3-1/2" H x 6" W x 1-1/4" D
Amplifier Installation Instructions
This 100 watt subwoofer amplifier is turned on by and receives its musical signal from either the left or right speaker wires (high level). It is powered by the vehicle's factory radio and protected by the vehicle's factory radio fuse. Because most low frequency signals are applied equally to both channels (mono), only one input is required. The amplifier senses the input signal's DC offset relative to ground and should turn on when the factory radio is turned on.
The following four connections from the Kicker sub amplifier are to be made to the vehicle's factory radio harness:
1- The red wire connects to the constant +12V wire in the radio harness. The vehicle's audio system fuse will protect the subwoofer amp. 2- The black wire connects to chassis ground. 3- The solid green wire connects to either the left or right positive speaker wire (either front or rear). 4- The green/yellow wire connects to either the left or right negative speaker wire (either front or rear).
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-29-2011).]
Does the slider control still affect the amount of bass generated like it does with the OEM amp?
You can use an amp and retain the factory slider control. You can hook the sub up as you normally would from the HU, then at the sub input take the high level inputs and use a hi level to low level convertor. The low level will run to the amp, which turns it back into hi level to the sub. They are typically cheap and cheap, the sound quality suffers a little bit but on a sub you probably won't even notice.
I just want to say thanks for the thread. I did build one and I'm really pleased with the result. The sound is quite good especially for the size of the sub. One thing I did do though that I think helps is to spray a heavy coat of truck bed liner on the inside and outside. It looks good and seems to give a little more mass to the enclosure and makes the sound less 'plasticy'.
Pretty cool little amp , does really well on (2) 10" subs. Its only 4" x 6" an about 1.5" tall ,. 4ch be out around end of June. Mono amp available now.
I also have picked up two of the Kicker amps. I was going to do the Tang sub but they are now $90 a piece from Parts Express. Has anyone tried Rodney's new sub replacement?
What would be the best way to adjust the level of the amp?
I also have picked up two of the Kicker amps. I was going to do the Tang sub but they are now $90 a piece from Parts Express. Has anyone tried Rodney's new sub replacement?
What would be the best way to adjust the level of the amp?
I have both. I must admit that the Tang is far superior to Rodney's. However, I think Rodney's is much better than stock. Even though the price of the Tang has risen to $90+ I think it is still worth it.
I just ordered a Tang Band sub from EMSpowered.com - seems they still list the W5-1138SM 5-1/4" sub at the old price of $40.95. Sure, the shipping was about $14, but even at $55 out-the-door, it's hard to beat compared to $90 everywhere else... Here's the link - http://www.emspowered.com/s...ndex&cPath=157_59_86
I have Rodney's running right now with a Dual (lame) amp. After only having 2 front speakers to now having a sub in the mix, its a huge improvement. Sound quality is pretty good even at high volume, but I don't really crank the bass either. The gain on the amp is all the way down and the headunit has barely any bass boost in play. For the price, it was worth it. However, at just a little more, the Tang is sounding like the way to go.
Hello everyone, in your experience can the Tang-Band/ stock replica woofer set up as described in this thread be powered directly and simply from the head unit?
I understand it needs minimal wattage to fill out the sound. I'm trying to avoid adding another amp and its wiring (this is my first sub install.) The HU is a higher end Kenwood, with 6 outputs (2 front, 2 back, 2 for sub) and built in sub preamp controls (cuttoffs, etc.)
It's 4 x 50 W, with a built in "Sub Woofer Reference Control Interface."
Looks like I'd have to bridge the subwoofer out channels into one for the mono sub, correct?
Thanks Fierosound, you are correct, there are only four powered channels. I'll seek out a small amp for the sub...(was hoping to avoid running amp cables to the battery is all.)
Nice! I'll have to try this. I just wanty to improve my sound quality, not go BOOM BOOM! I'll have to get the replacement box from TFS but it looks like it doesn't come with the port tube. Guess I'll have to try and find one of those as well.
I wonder if any other 5 1/2 sub would work? Several came up with a quick google search.
edit, Amazon has them for $30.
http://www.amazon.com/Tang-...Woofer/dp/B000BWXWTI ------------------ Whodeanie built 1988 Fiero GT, loaded, 14k original miles, 5MT w/ LSD, built 3800 swap, PT67 turbo, w2a charge-cooled, whodeanie headers, tune & cam. ----400-500whp?????? More mods when I get it back. Stay tuned! 1987 Fiero GT Road Racer. 1st documented 3.4TDC swap- built in 1994. 5MT Isuzu, Quaife prototype LSD, HT Tubular A-arms, Fully poly & Heim jointed suspension, Custom 3 way adjustible sway bars, HT Bump Steer kit, Koin's, 320# springs, GA brakes, ZEX N20 and more! Under full restoration. 2007 Toyota Tacoma Double cab Prerunner SR5 2009 KTM 250SX
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 04-17-2012).]
Because the tube is tuned for the stock speaker, it needs to be modified to match the new speaker's specs. Cut off 2 inches from the end. The housing is slightly undersize, so loosely stuff it and the tube with poly fiberfill (cheap at Walmart) to make it work better.
i'm considering doing this upgrade but i'm a little confused on what part you cut off. did you do the cutting where the MDF is in the pic above or was the cut on the port tube that comes out the top. please set me enlighten me before i do something stupid.
i'm considering doing this upgrade but i'm a little confused on what part you cut off. did you do the cutting where the MDF is in the pic above or was the cut on the port tube that comes out the top. please set me enlighten me before i do something stupid.
thanks...
The end of port tube to shorten it. No modification to the box itself.
Just a tad off topic (but definitely related), would someone be so kind as to post the dimensions of the factory subwoofer tube. Mine has always been missing from my '86 GT. I'd like to make a replacement one up from PVC tubing.
I found these dimensions posted in an old thread, but it's not very clear where the measurements were actually made from.
quote
...the tube is 9 3/4" long by 2 1/4" tall and 1 1/2" in diameter.
I've included an image here that I found in an old thread. Keeping in mind where exactly I've indicated in the picture, could someone please tell me the measurement of both "A" and "B". Thanks.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-05-2012).]
