This is how the Infinity components fit into the 4"x10" dash opening. 5.25" woofer and 1" tweeter Woofers with BIG magnets can cause clearance problems with the HVAC duct on the driver's side. It may be necessary to heat the duct with a heat gun and bend it in slightly.
This is how the Infinity components fit into the 4"x10" dash opening. 5.25" woofer and 1" tweeter on a speaker plate made from 3/16" hardboard.
I've done up a template that can be used to cut out dash plates. The hardboard can be pretty fragile, especially around the 5.25" cutout, so alternative materials such as 1/4" ABS plastic could be used.
I want to do this but im a little incompetent on audio so how would you hook both of these speakers up on one channel? Thanks for the template.
Any component set will come with a passive crossover - 2 wires in, 4 wires out. 2 to the woofer, 2 to the tweeter. This is the Infinity KAPPA 50.7CS set I installed.
The woofer has a Neodymium magnet and heatsink. Very compact.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-16-2010).]
Will a 6" or a 6 x 9 fit under this area in the dash with adapter plate holding it to the bottome of the dash ?
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How does this sound compared to a quality 4x10 coaxial? Also, how does a good 4x6 plate compare to a 4x6 coaxial?
thanks.
I installed a set on Eclipse 4"x10" tri-axials first. Sounded pretty, good, but these Infinity's blow them out of the water. In general, a quality set of components will produce better, more accurate sound than a co-axial. A round woofer can play louder than an oval speaker with less distortion. Install components for the front and 4"x6" plates for the rear.
The 4"x6" plates will also fit better in the pillar because the space is quite shallow and larger magnets on a co-axial don't always fit (too deep). The space is deeper in the lower section of the pillar behind the speakers. Because the plate mounts the woofer off to one side, mounting the speaker in the pillar with the woofer in the lower side of the opening usually fits.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-03-2007).]
I did this a few years ago with a set of 4" Kappa components. At the time I had access to a laser cutter/engraver so I cut mine out of 1/8" plexiglas and did some decoration with paint and the laser:
You can probably find someone nearby that has one of these lasers that would cut out a pair for you for a reasonable price, especially nice if you compete in any stereo competitions.
~edit~ to add a shot of the 4x6 plates referred to in the thread:
Hi I attempted to download and print the template and I am requested a "password" Help appreciated sparx22
There's no password attached to the file. Download from the link by "Right-Click - Save As" to save to your machine. After it's saved, opening it should bring in on screen in MicroSoft Word. Do you have MS Word protected?
There's no password attached to the file. Download from the link by "Right-Click - Save As" to save to your machine. After it's saved, opening it should bring in on screen in MicroSoft Word. Do you have MS Word protected?
Can someone give this guy a + for the hard work and a good idea? - I already had him down for a +++ for the muffler suggestion for my 3800sc engine build
I'm in the process of doing this with Infinity reference 5.25 and they are not playing nicely. has anyone else had trouble especially on the Drivers side? seem like the back of the instrument panel housing is in the way.
I'm in the process of doing this with Infinity reference 5.25 and they are not playing nicely. has anyone else had trouble especially on the Drivers side? seem like the back of the instrument panel housing is in the way.
Fierosound this may have been asked before but what do you recommend for subs and speakers? im assuming you would recommend the Infinity KAPPA 50.7CS for the speakers...but what about subs? you've read some of my posts and I'm looking for good...for lack of a better word...'' bump '' I want quality base that still punches. I'm beginning to think my 12" comp subs should and would be better used in a different car.
------------------ Cliff's 610th Positive Feedback Giver. #12 NYFOC Member In recent times, the custom aftermarket car/automobile roadwheel has become a status symbol. These wheels are often incorrectly referred to as "rims". The term "rim" is incorrect because the rim is only the outer portion of a wheel (where the tire is mounted )
...but what about subs? you've read some of my posts and I'm looking for good...for lack of a better word...'' bump '' I want quality base that still punches. I'm beginning to think my 12" comp subs should and would be better used in a different car.
I have 10" Oz Audio subs - not longer available. And since I'm not "in the industry" I have no first hand knowledge on direct comparisons. The industry really screws things up too with over-inflated numbers because it "sounds like MORE" to the uninformed person (using PMP "Peak Music Power" (what it will take/make before it blows up) watts instead of RMS watts). Ignore the BIG numbers, and use the RMS watts ratings whenever matching speakers/subs to amplifier power.
But general guidelines:
- in a Fiero, two 10" subs are plenty AND easier to fit and have a wide selection. - you DO NOT need 1000 watt subs (likely a PMP rating anyway). 100-250 RMS watts per sub is plenty provided your amp puts out 250 RMS watts per channel. (300 RMS amp to a 250 RMS sub is OK) - To me - efficiency rating is more important (rating is deciBels per 1 Watt measured from 1 meter away). 89 dB/W/m is more efficient (and louder) than 83 dB/W/m at 1 Watt.
See what the guys in the Subwoofer forum are talking about. Search forum using "small enclosure": http://www.caraudioforum.com/
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-06-2010).]
I'm in the process of doing this with Infinity reference 5.25 and they are not playing nicely. has anyone else had trouble especially on the Drivers side? seem like the back of the instrument panel housing is in the way.
I just printed and cut the plates but also didn't work with the Boston S50 I used. I guess the magnet and depth of those Infinity gotta be very small. At the end I had to move the speakers toward the center. The template is good but don't cut the speaker holes until you measure several times.
I was just wondering. If the Fiero sound system was to be redesigned, from scratch. How would one go about doing it? Is there a better speaker placement then the dash? Should speakers be placed in the doors or the foot wells? How about tweeters in the A-pillars?
I'm just rambling! But I would like a better sound stage and I am redesigning the interior of my Fiero. So now would be a good time to figure out speaker placement.
On another note: what is this muffler system that is being talked about? I have a 3800 SC and it is a little to loud.
I cut a few sets of your speaker plates out of 3/16" aluminum on a water jet.
I noticed you had recommended the Infinity 50.7 which is now discontinued, do you by chance know if the 50.9CS larger magnet will interfere on the driver's side?
Looks very good Will. But I'd have cut the holes after buying the speaker set, because they should be sized for the tweeter and midrange you will be installing.
There can be fitment problems with larger magnets - interference with the HVAC duct. Nothing that can't be fixed with a heat gun.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 01-06-2023).]
Looks very good Will. But I'd have cut the holes after buying the speaker set, because they should be sized for the tweeter and midrange you will be installing.
Thanks for the tip on the heat gun Tony I received my speakers Sat. and the components fit perfectly. I have been waiting on the stereo upgrade as my head unit needs be upgraded as well. The rear speakers will be next. I haven't really decided what I am going to do about subs at this point.
Dr. W.
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Originally posted by fierosound: Any component set will come with a passive crossover - 2 wires in, 4 wires out. 2 to the woofer, 2 to the tweeter. This is the Infinity KAPPA 50.7CS set I installed.
what's a good rear 4x6 (infinity, want to stick with the same brand as 507CS) to complement the 5.25?
thanks
[This message has been edited by Tom Slick (edited 04-30-2012).]