Progressing along nicely on several fronts. I've no pics here at work, but will get a few up shortly.
This weekend a new builder from Wisconson visited and took delivery of a kit. After meeting him and his sidekick, I think you will soon see some interesting developments.
I think you'll like what we can do with the front hood skin, while it is in the mold. Pics will tell the story better than I can explain here, right now.
The LT1 is progressing nicely, just about ready for it's final installation into the chassis. Again, the pics may intrest those folks out there that like longitudinal v8 installs.
And the 4.9/Allante is in, lacking only the final attachment of various plumbing lines.
Poor quality pics as usual, but look closely. I fabricated a bracket to hold the trans shift cable, so this setup uses the stock Fiero shifter & shift cable. Also you can see the vss adapter, which generates the necessary signal for the '93 LT1 computer I'm using. A cable driven spedometer can be attached, but I'm going to look for a spedo signal out of the computer. Look closely behind the differential and you will see the remote oil filter adapter. You can also see the trans end of the kickdown cable attached. I'm using a stock Fiero kickdown cable. More on that later. And finally you can see a mount for the trailing link which attaches the knuckle to the cradle. Since the cradle is extended, and the trans is in the way, the link is relocated. More on that later. The black paint is a POR15 clone, by Magnum Paints. It's not cheap, but less than POR15, and I honestly think it's the same formula.
While the rear clip has been off and I had an extra set of actuators laying around, I've been working on installing them on the rear clip. I think I've got it all worked out, and the last two brackets will be welded in place today or tomorrow.
I've been working on installing the front hood. And while the mold was laying there ready to layup, I decided to try including a set of hood extractors. I've seen pics of Panteras with extractors covered with grills, but being a Fiero type guy, I kind of like the open, visible type. So I made up a set of plugs using foam cored poster board, covered with aluminum furnace tape, and clayed in the edges with a nice radius. Size was dictated by a random cutout of the front of the tirewell wall. It can be enlarged, allowing a different final shape to the extractors.
The whole works was sprayed with PVA and Duratec:
And a typical layup done:
Here it is, straight from the mold, cut & trimmed but not washed up:
For the purist, the extractors will look a bit further back than on a real Pantera. Location is dictated by the radiator location of the Fiero chassis. Since the headlight buckets are moved 6" forwards, it makes the extractors look a bit aft. But I like the overall effect. It can be modified to a different shape or size, before the layup. For that matter, there's plenty of room to either lay the Fiero radiator down or move it forwards if you so wanted. Then the extractors could be located in what would appear a more of a stock Pantera location. I think I'll offer the addition of extractors to buyers at no additional charge, if they know exactly what they want, and where it's located.
Very very nice work, David. I love the look of the front end, but how are you going to mount the headlight motors and assemblies to those new locations ?
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 08-14-2007).]
I think I like it....Some views are good but, this is the second time I've looked through the whole thread looking for some good shots from multiple angles. Maybe I'll make it to a Bluegrass event and be lucky enough to see it in person....
Originally posted by s550w: Maybe I'll make it to a Bluegrass event and be lucky enough to see it in person.... Brian
Plan on mid October for a gathering then. Got a new toy I want some folks to see.
------------------ Ron If you want to burn our flag, you have the right. Just wrap yourself in it just prior to dousing it with gas and lighting the match.
Paul, I've taken pics out the wazoo of everything except the mounting brackets for the front end. I made a set for the new builder, so maybe he can post a pic.
A cut is made in the front corner of the chassis, just infront of the stock headlight bucket location. See the curving chalk mark.
On the front side, the cut is just outside of the outermost bolts for the front bumper. Bumper obviously gets trimmed before reinstalled.
Then a simple set of steel braces is made which serves both to mount the entire front clip, and to relocate the headlight buckets. It's very simple. I'll have to pull my front clip to get a shot, so maybe the new builder will get a chance to send a pic.
Originally posted by ly41181: Where is it going to be? Josh
Josh, If you're on the Bluegrass Fieros mailing list, watch your email, details will be coming out soon. The location will be at my new home just east of Frankfort, KY. Be looking for that email.
------------------ Ron If you want to burn our flag, you have the right. Just wrap yourself in it just prior to dousing it with gas and lighting the match.
Hey Joe, No real beauty shots, 'cause I'm still trying different things, like different styles of scoops, etc.
A few obvious things: -I'm looking for the right wheels & tires. Latest up is a custom made set. -The front end needs to settle in. Probably won't drop untill it's driven around a bit. -If it doesn't settle, drop springs are next. -Sanding is not my favorite sport. I will conduct one killer body prep session, when the time is right.
I think I'll make another front hood, with a bit wider extractors. The first one I made was based on the width of the fan shroud opening. I think a bit wider, and maybe extending the back edge of the ramp a bit more too, will look nice.
I made this front airdam so it could be used on a body without the wheel flares. I'm going to widen the flare of the lower lip, where it transitions from the front edge to the wheel flare. Just enough to make the lines flow.
I've sanded about three different shapes of side scoops. Getting tired of that. One or another will eventually surface.
The door skins were ridiculously easy to fit.
Everywhere I have attached something, like the front air dam or the wheel wells, and anywhere I have modified the body, like changing the rear clip to fit the 4" chop of the roof.....I added an extra layer of 2oz mat, so I'd have plenty of leeway to acheve the nice sharp lines associated with the Pantera design.
------------------ Ron If you want to burn our flag, you have the right. Just wrap yourself in it just prior to dousing it with gas and lighting the match.
That would make an awsome Targa or Convertible. Looks great as a Coupe but, well we both know that I like verts.
------------------ Ron If you want to burn our flag, you have the right. Just wrap yourself in it just prior to dousing it with gas and lighting the match.
That project is coming out great. You need some deep dish wheels to fill those wheel wells now. I also would put a single wide vent in the front hood. I think it would look better.
This is an absolute gem. Taking the roof down and adding the flares made all the difference in the world on the look for the vehicle. You can be very proud of what you have accomplished so far.
I have had my Ferrari 328 panels sprayed into the molds for the next project on GusHotRod's old frame but I have not pulled them out yet to start up the 288 GTO project.
Keep going on yours as it will be incredible when you are done.
Originally posted by PaulJK: that's for sure Don, i can't believe how good that looks with flares and a chop top - makes me sad i'm so tall
Paul, The seat has been lowered to floor pan height. I'm a hair over 6' and have no issues. Well, other than getting down that low to actually get in that is.
------------------ Ron If you want to burn our flag, you have the right. Just wrap yourself in it just prior to dousing it with gas and lighting the match.
Any update on the Pantero? The chopped version is looking great.
I have been busy building my interior fo rthe 355 project so I can get it done and on to using GusHotRod's frame on the 288 GTO project. Also gathering parts right now for the GTO.
Austrian, these are the 2002 type, and don't look too bad. I can't really find replacement 2008 mirrors, but I think they look something like those on the Camaro prototype, pretty streamlined !
355Fiero, Keep up the good work, you must be really stoking the home fires, this time of year
Most of the recent progress has been with the yellow Pantera. The LT1 install is finished, and ready for the new tires to be mounted and a four wheel alignment done.
In gearing up for the Carslile show and the Detroit show, I recently purchased a nice pro-line car trailer from a local Fiero builder, and have been going thru my truck, getting it ready for the long hauls. Loads of fun.
I plan to sand & prep the yellow Pantera this winter and shoot a fresh paint job as soon as the weather breaks.
I am looking for one part, and maybe someone can help me out here. With the thm325 trans I'm running with the LT1, there is a long output shaft, or axle, which plugs into the differential and rides underneath the engine. There is a snapring or circlip in the splined end of this shaft, just like on our Fiero axles, which retains the shaft inside the differential. I need a snapring. The local dealerships tell me the part is no longer available, and searching thru numerous parts shops, I've not found a dead-on match. The snapring I'm using works, but I'm not sure for how long. Could get exciting, eh ?
Just this weekend I rolled the choptop Pantera back into the shop. All that remains is a bunch of wraping up the remaining details of assembly, and then the real fun of body prep begins. Again, the goal is to be ready to shoot paint as soon as the weather breaks.
I've been a bit distracted lately by the Bellanca. It has a 1700 hour TBO, and is within 200 hours of TBO time. After about 6 months of circulating mineral spirits thru the engine, it still wouldn't free up a stuck valve, and so wouldn't pass annual inspection. Base estimate on overhaul is $22,000. Oh well, it's only money, right ?
It's the Soldier, not the reporter Who has given us the freedom of the press. It's the Soldier, not the poet, Who has given us the freedom of speech. It's the Soldier, not the politicians That ensures our right to Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Happiness. It's the Soldier who salutes the flag, Who serves beneath the flag, And whose coffin is draped by the flag.
WOW........I wasn't really diggin the overall look of the car at the start, so I quit checking for updates........THEN........thought what the heck, lets take a looksy........that looks FREAKIN AWESOME with the chopped roof and the fender flares!!! It looks like a whole new car!!! Do you have any pics of the chop process? Is that the stock Fiero windshield? WOW!!!!! Great job......now I'll be checking back for updates again!!
Edit......I found on page 7 the chop process. hehe
Wow! Yeah, that's exactly what I said the first time I rolled it out of the shop and could stand back a bit and really "see" it. I'd been working on it for over a year, but inside a shop with very tight working space, and just couldn't get a real good overall view.
I agree, the standard body looks great on a stock Fiero chassis. But the chop and flares completely change the character of it. I like it.
I guess the chop is as standard as they come. I did it a few years back, just to see how difficult it really was to chop a Fiero. Turns out it's fairly easy.
The next chop I do may have the basic cuts done a bit differently than those seen in this thread, but the overall deal is the same.
I call this a 4" chop, because I cut a 4" section out of the pillars on either side of the rear window. I arrived at that measurement by first lowering the seat rails and floor pan a bit, then removing the roof upholestry, and measuring how much excess head clearance I had when seated in my favorite position. I had measured something like 5" or 5 1/2" clearance was available, and so allowed for some replacement roof liner, and arrived at 4" available for the chop.
I did keep the back window board which was used to jig the roof during the process, and I guess measuring it's height would be as good a measure of "how much of a chop is it".
When it warms up a bit, I'll remeasure that and let you know. Right now it's so cold that even the Politicians have their hands in their own pockets around here.
BTW, that is the stock Fiero windshield.
The overall apearance should improve even more with the right size rims. I'm awaiting the arrival of some Axis Widetrack rims with 285x50's.
Come to Carslile or to Detroit 25th and get a ride.
David Breeze
[This message has been edited by opm2000 (edited 01-25-2008).]
Hey Dave, I've been looking at the pics for a while now, and was wondering what you thought about reworking the airdam and front flares for a soother transition. It just looks like this area is begging for a more flowing transition from one to the other.
Hey Dave, if I do end up coming to the 25th, I'll be sure to hit you up for a ride! Once again, keep up the great work, and wait impatiently to see these Axis rims fillin up those wheel wells!! Take care!
Hey Joe, keen eye. I had the same thought, concerning blending the outer edge of the lower lip...moving it more outboard to where it blends in with the front wheel flare.
I made up some cardboard panels to fiddle around with angles, and have settled on using the front corner as a pivot point, and swinging the side of the lower lip out to a wide point which is about 2" more outboard by the time it gets to the wheel flare. And a similar treatment to the lower edge of the flare, itself. It made all the difference in appearance, not looking so "pinched in" from the front.
Hey David, Are you using the pre-88 or 88 rear suspension? In this picture: it looks like pre-88.
My question (if it's pre-88) is: What are you doing with the mount for the rear trailing link? It looks to be cut off and a different bracket mounted. If it is an 88, then it's understood.
Hey Bob, Yes, it's an '85 cradle & suspension. The trailing link is replaced with a threaded tie-rod tube and heim joints, and the location of the mounting point is sort of left up to the builder. I don't have any pics of this on this computer, but will post a few later today.
Having used the Joe Wynman guidelines for most of this installation, I had originally built the assembly that Joe described. But I felt it had too much freeplay, and replaced it with what I'm using now.
I tried to locate the pivot point in the middle of the "sweet spot" as far as bumpsteer correction was concerned. Right now the new arm is mounted on one very stout "standup", and seems firm enough. But, the next time I drop the cradle on this car, I plan to add a second "standup", and thereby have a thru bolt supported on both ends.
These should give you a pretty good idea of what's going on. All the parts came from Speedway, I believe. The outer tie-rod post has a huge threaded shaft length, which gives you unexplored dimensions when it comes to alignment time
Hey Joe, No real beauty shots, 'cause I'm still trying different things, like different styles of scoops, etc.
A few obvious things: -I'm looking for the right wheels & tires. Latest up is a custom made set. -The front end needs to settle in. Probably won't drop untill it's driven around a bit. -If it doesn't settle, drop springs are next. -Sanding is not my favorite sport. I will conduct one killer body prep session, when the time is right.
I think I'll make another front hood, with a bit wider extractors. The first one I made was based on the width of the fan shroud opening. I think a bit wider, and maybe extending the back edge of the ramp a bit more too, will look nice.
I made this front airdam so it could be used on a body without the wheel flares. I'm going to widen the flare of the lower lip, where it transitions from the front edge to the wheel flare. Just enough to make the lines flow.
I've sanded about three different shapes of side scoops. Getting tired of that. One or another will eventually surface.
The door skins were ridiculously easy to fit.
Everywhere I have attached something, like the front air dam or the wheel wells, and anywhere I have modified the body, like changing the rear clip to fit the 4" chop of the roof.....I added an extra layer of 2oz mat, so I'd have plenty of leeway to acheve the nice sharp lines associated with the Pantera design.
Enjoy.
David Breeze
More pics please!
------------------ 1988 Fiero 3800SC Series 1 w/5spd Coilovers 18's w/Pirellis Corvette Dash Mod
WOW! I just saw this thread for the first time......OMG! These are a work of art. Any idea if/when a kit will be available and for how much? I did see something like $4000.00 + for the first couple kits and then......
I just need to know how much I need to start stuffing in my piggy bank! (or just loan myself from my rather healthy 401K!)
Another thought....would it be possible to have a rear hatch (like blackrams or smaller AND the tilt rear). One would aid in trunk access and the other in engine access.....just a thought (probably already in here somewhere...I apologize if it is)
How big is the exhuast tubing? It looks like the flow on that curve is awful. Got any more pics of the rear? Car looks awesome, hopefully I will make it to a bluegrass meeting one day.
) It would flow well with the lines..
