Does anyone that has done this conversion used a scan tool software with it? I thought I had read in this post that you could use FreeScan. I am trying to use it with my 3.4(DIS)new build. Unable to start engine yet. Software (selected 3.1 engine)on the sensor scan page has a line that is called crank postions =0 is this saying I am not getting feedback from my crankcase sensor? Is there any other software to use? Mike
P.S. I think I may have flooded it and is the cause for it not starting will know more tomorrow. I have spark, fuel at the shrader valve (psi? will check as well tomorrow) and i have a pulse at the injector connector Just would like to understand the software a little better.
What interface cable are you using? The 7730 ECM communicates using 8192 baud. If you bought an interface cable for the stock Fiero ECM, it might be one of those versions that only works with 160 baud communications; and that will NOT work with the 7730 ECM. www.aldlcable.com sells an interface cable that will work with the 7730 ECM or you can build your own using instructions I have posted on my website here: http://dtcc.cz28.com/eprom/DIY.htm
FreeScan should work fine with the 7730 ECM. Make sure it is configured to read a "GM410B" vehicle. If that doesn't work, try "GM 1992 Pontiac 3.2" config. If you can't get FreeScan to work, try TunerPro RT's scanner. This tuning software suite is quite inexpensive to buy but does come with a built-in scanner. You can get TunerPro RT here: http://tunerpro.markmansur.com/
I am using one custom built by Dodgerunner that operates on the faster baud rate. I know it is working, When In turn on the key I get a status update with header info and coolant temp, map, O2, all update. But cranksensors =0 even when cranking the engine no rpm indicator either might be too slow to record.
I am using one custom built by Dodgerunner that operates on the faster baud rate. I know it is working, When In turn on the key I get a status update with header info and coolant temp, map, O2, all update. But cranksensors =0 even when cranking the engine no rpm indicator either might be too slow to record.
Mike
You may not get a valid RPM signal on the scanner just by cranking the engine. I have seen this occur before (don't know if that is what is going on in your case). But when the engine starts and runs, then you should see valid RPM data.
I now have wiring instructions available for wiring up the 7730 ECM -AND- DIS (distributorless ignition system) to the Fiero 2.8 wiring harness. You can download them here: http://www.gmtuners.com/fil...o_V6_to_7730_DIS.pdf
You can download the 7730 wiring instructions for distributor applications here (so you don't have to go back to earlier pages in this thread to find the link): http://www.gmtuners.com/files/Fiero2.8_to_7730.pdf
-ryan
[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 05-16-2008).]
Originally posted by Darth Fiero: I now have wiring instructions available for wiring up the 7730 ECM -AND- DIS (distributorless ignition system) to the Fiero 2.8 wiring harness. You can download them here: http://www.gmtuners.com/fil...o_V6_to_7730_DIS.pdf
You can download the 7730 wiring instructions for distributor applications here (so you don't have to go back to earlier pages in this thread to find the link): http://www.gmtuners.com/files/Fiero2.8_to_7730.pdf
-ryan
awesome - thanks! I will go and look, and dbl check my work - I am wrapping up my wiring harness right now, and getting ready to re-install the cradle. also fixed my auto 2 manual swap wiring while I was at it.
anyways - the Q: is there a way to know what "codemask" my ECM has? (not even sure what "codemask" is...)
awesome - thanks! I will go and look, and dbl check my work - I am wrapping up my wiring harness right now, and getting ready to re-install the cradle. also fixed my auto 2 manual swap wiring while I was at it.
anyways - the Q: is there a way to know what "codemask" my ECM has? (not even sure what "codemask" is...)
"Code Mask" is another name for OS, or Operating System. Basically the OS is to a GM ECM as Windows XP or Vista is to your PC. The OS in the ECM runs the engine and controls the various outputs based on the information stored in the calibration, or programming.
The only way to determine what code mask/programming your ECM has is by deciphering the broadcast code (BCC) that labels the stock chip. Examples of where to find the BCC can be seen here: http://www.gmtuners.com/eprom/BCC.jpg
Locate yours and email me with it and I will see if I can find out what it is.
Hi all, Looking to buy the 87-88 4cyl ECM Tray If you got it please PM me. Payment via PayPal Will offer upto $20 for the tray including shipping (USPS) to Canada. Thanks
Hi all, Looking to buy the 87-88 4cyl ECM Tray If you got it please PM me. Payment via PayPal Will offer upto $20 for the tray including shipping (USPS) to Canada. Thanks
finally finished my 7730 swap (along with other changes) - and, when I tried to start it - no fire up. I am not getting fuel. hooked up a fuel pressure guage. when I first turn it on - I get a weak 30 psi. if I drain off pressure - it wont build back. It seems the fuel pump will turn on for a tiny bit, when the key is first turned - but thats it, no more. is there a change in how the fuel pump is run?
edit - update: put power to pin G on the ALDL - and get my 40PSI, solid. still not starting tho... tho - now I remember that I dont know if this ECM was from a DIS or Distributer motor....any way to visually tell? I removed the distributer, and am trying to use DIS.
[This message has been edited by Pyrthian (edited 06-12-2008).]
finally finished my 7730 swap (along with other changes) - and, when I tried to start it - no fire up. I am not getting fuel. hooked up a fuel pressure guage. when I first turn it on - I get a weak 30 psi. if I drain off pressure - it wont build back. It seems the fuel pump will turn on for a tiny bit, when the key is first turned - but thats it, no more. is there a change in how the fuel pump is run?
edit - update: put power to pin G on the ALDL - and get my 40PSI, solid. still not starting tho... tho - now I remember that I dont know if this ECM was from a DIS or Distributer motor....any way to visually tell? I removed the distributer, and am trying to use DIS.
The fuel pump power system is handled the same way when using the 7730 ECM vs. the stock Fiero ECM. It sounds to me like you might have a wiring problem somewhere that needs to be addressed.
The fuel pump should run for 2 sec when you first key on the ignition. Then the fuel pump should run when the engine is cranked because the ECM should be seeing a reference pulse from the ignition module. If the fuel pump is NOT running during engine cranking, then either the computer isn't receiving the reference pulse or there is a wiring problem and the computer is not powering up properly (check power and ground feeds to the ECM).
If you have switched to DIS on this car, pull all of the plug wires off the coil pack and have someone crank the engine over while you watch the coil pack. You should see a spark jump across all coil towers sequentially as the engine cranks. If you see no spark then either you have a wiring problem at or to the coil pack, a bad crank sensor, or a power supply issue to the system.
well, went to the junkyard, and got a "chip" - the whole blue thingy from a known DIS car. swapped it in, and now I get the fuel pressure as expected. I hear the pump for a second or 2 when I bleed off the pressure tho, it doesnt build back. and, did check for spark...none...... the tach bounces when I crank - which I am guessing means at least part of the crank sensor & ignition module are working, since the signal is made in the igntion module, from the crank sensor data. the "check engine" light works
well, went to the junkyard, and got a "chip" - the whole blue thingy from a known DIS car. swapped it in, and now I get the fuel pressure as expected. I hear the pump for a second or 2 when I bleed off the pressure tho, it doesnt build back. and, did check for spark...none...... the tach bounces when I crank - which I am guessing means at least part of the crank sensor & ignition module are working, since the signal is made in the igntion module, from the crank sensor data. the "check engine" light works
If you are not getting spark then STOP. You have a problem either with the ignition module, ignition coils, crank sensor, or wiring going to any of these devices. You must find and repair the cause of the no-spark issue before doing further diagnosis with the ECM.
Originally posted by Darth Fiero: If you are not getting spark then STOP. You have a problem either with the ignition module, ignition coils, crank sensor, or wiring going to any of these devices. You must find and repair the cause of the no-spark issue before doing further diagnosis with the ECM.
-ryan
I've been concentrating on getting fuel. at the point where I dont think any injectors are firing. got fuel pressure, but, dont smell fuel in the exhaust or on plugs when I remove them. after finding popped INJ fuses, replaced them - they stayed good, but still smell no fuel. gonna be a quite a fun troubleshooting weekend....
also thinking if the tach is bouncing around 300-600 while cranking - that the crank sensor, and ignition module are at least getting pulses. have not had a 2nd person to completely verify the no spark. also, have verified power to the DIS block.
I've been concentrating on getting fuel. at the point where I dont think any injectors are firing. got fuel pressure, but, dont smell fuel in the exhaust or on plugs when I remove them. after finding popped INJ fuses, replaced them - they stayed good, but still smell no fuel. gonna be a quite a fun troubleshooting weekend....
also thinking if the tach is bouncing around 300-600 while cranking - that the crank sensor, and ignition module are at least getting pulses. have not had a 2nd person to completely verify the no spark. also, have verified power to the DIS block.
If there is no spark, then there's a good chance the reference pulse isn't being sent to the ECM from the ignition module to tell it when to fire the injectors. Hence the reason why I recommend you find the cause to the no-spark issue and repair that first before anything else. I wouldn't worry about the bouncing tach at the moment either; that could be caused by a number of electrical issues or even a bad ignition module.
First thing you need to do is get the spark working.
[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 06-12-2008).]
ok, sounds good. I am pretty confident about the wiring, so - can I just take the whole coil pack assembly out, and take it somewhere for testing? is it possible that if I had the wrong chip - like for a distributer, or a 4 cyl with TBI - that it may have cooked the ignition module? the popped INJ fuses worries me also - but could that be from all 6 being on one line now, instead of the 2 seperate banks from the original Fiero ECM - beings it is a dbl load now?
ok, sounds good. I am pretty confident about the wiring, so - can I just take the whole coil pack assembly out, and take it somewhere for testing? is it possible that if I had the wrong chip - like for a distributer, or a 4 cyl with TBI - that it may have cooked the ignition module? the popped INJ fuses worries me also - but could that be from all 6 being on one line now, instead of the 2 seperate banks from the original Fiero ECM - beings it is a dbl load now?
A 4cyl chip will NOT cook the ignition module. I don't know if any parts stores or shops have the ability to test GM DIS ignition modules, they might -- you will have to check. All 6 injectors being on the same circuit should not have popped the fuse (unless you were running too small of a fuse -- should be 10 amp). If you are popping 10amp fuses, then you have a wiring problem or a bad injector (internal short). Not too much else it could be.
Originally posted by Darth Fiero: A 4cyl chip will NOT cook the ignition module. I don't know if any parts stores or shops have the ability to test GM DIS ignition modules, they might -- you will have to check. All 6 injectors being on the same circuit should not have popped the fuse (unless you were running too small of a fuse -- should be 10 amp). If you are popping 10amp fuses, then you have a wiring problem or a bad injector (internal short). Not too much else it could be.
-ryan
the original fuses for INJ1 & INJ2 were 5 amp. I did replace them both with 10 amp, since I did remember which circuit was wired, INJ 1 or INJ2, and assumed a dbl load. next - how do I test the crank sensor? only thing I can think of is an oscilliscope, and that I dont have. but, the crank sensor "twsited pair" is one part or the wiring I was not so confident about - maybe I"ll make a new one. I dont wanna just throw parts tho....but I dont think I have the equipment to test a single part of this, except continuity......
the original fuses for INJ1 & INJ2 were 5 amp. I did replace them both with 10 amp, since I did remember which circuit was wired, INJ 1 or INJ2, and assumed a dbl load. next - how do I test the crank sensor? only thing I can think of is an oscilliscope, and that I dont have. but, the crank sensor "twsited pair" is one part or the wiring I was not so confident about - maybe I"ll make a new one. I dont wanna just throw parts tho....but I dont think I have the equipment to test a single part of this, except continuity......
Using an Oscilliscope is the only way to properly test the crank sensor.
You haven't used a test light to test anything having to do with the ECM or IGN Module, have you? If you have, that could have fried those components. You can only use a Digital Volt-Ohm Meter to test ECM-connected components.
Originally posted by Darth Fiero: Using an Oscilliscope is the only way to properly test the crank sensor.
You haven't used a test light to test anything having to do with the ECM or IGN Module, have you? If you have, that could have fried those components. You can only use a Digital Volt-Ohm Meter to test ECM-connected components.
damn...where to find an o-scope..... no, the only thing I have checked is the power connection to the DIS block. I guess I'll just go to the junk yard, and find a 2nd crank sender & DIS block.....and make a new twsited pair....hate to just throw parts - but dont see a alternative
yay spark. replaced crank trigger. after pulling the old one out, I saw it was just corrosion on the contacts. that sensor has remained on my block all along - but, never had anything plugged into it. still hasnt started yet - no fuel still. but, I do have pressure & spark. going over the wiring, section at a time from the injectors, back towards the ECM & +12. my multi meter pooped on me in the middle of testing the "auto range" started not locking down, and it would just scroll thru the range searching.....so, back to checking when that's replaced....
well, got the new multimeter. I found that with igntion on, but not cranking, I was getting 8 volts going to the injectors - when there should be none. unplugged the ECM connector, and it immediatly shot to none/infinity - just to make sure it wasnt a leak in the wiring harness. sounds like the ECM injector driver is Poo Poo. when I touched the case of the ECM - it was HOT. guess this was why that particluar car was at the U-pull-it......
got another ECM for the U-pull-it. was from a vehcile that looked like it overheated - good sign for me - only way to overheat is to be running
so, swapped it in - no change. spark, no fuel. and - I am very surprised at the voltage at the injectors when they are closed. digging a little more into it - I guess thats how it goes - there is voltage - but barely any current, so the injectors stay closed. now I see why these injectors drivers are so prone to fail - they "leak". so, now back to needing an O-scope to see if I am getting a signla from the igntion module to the ECM.
I got spark, I got fuel pressure, I got +12 to the injectors, and continuity back to the ECM. so - yes, sounds like the signal from igntion module to ECM is missing. how to test this...? but - the low bouncy tach - that means a signal is in fact coming out of the ignition module. hmmm....back to the notes...
Originally posted by Pyrthian: hmmm....back to the notes...
and the answer found...got it started...injector grounds from ECM - oops - added them, and it fired right up. did the cam break in - the rad fan kicked on twice under ECM control - yay after the cam break-in - goosed the peddle a few times, idle dropped right down to solid smooth 600-700 no major leaks, no major smoke, except burnoff from the build.
do you think think this modif. will pass the California smog tests
quote
Originally posted by Darth Fiero:
I now have wiring instructions available for wiring up the 7730 ECM -AND- DIS (distributorless ignition system) to the Fiero 2.8 wiring harness. You can download them here: http://www.gmtuners.com/fil...o_V6_to_7730_DIS.pdf
You can download the 7730 wiring instructions for distributor applications here (so you don't have to go back to earlier pages in this thread to find the link): http://www.gmtuners.com/files/Fiero2.8_to_7730.pdf
how long does it take for the ECM to "re-learn" or adjust to my motor? does it take 20 mins driving, like the Fiero ECM, or does it happen much quicker? I have yet to actually "hit the road".
The idle learn is immediate. Fuel trims are fast for each cell, but it takes a while to populate all the cells. Unless you're having problems no need to worry about it.
Would be a good idea to get a scan tool so you can see your BLMs and INTs.
What does the "digital EVAP purge valve" for the digital cruise control look like? Can someone post a picture of the parts I would need for this?
I'll also try to see if there are some 7730 ECM at the yard if anyone needs one PM me.
-Brian
The digital cruise control doesn't use an EVAP purge valve. The EVAP purge valve solenoid is used by the 7730 ECM to regulate the amount of fuel vapors entering the engine from the charcoal canister. Just about any EVAP purge valve solenoid from any late 80's and up GM car will work, as long as it is a "stand-alone" unit. During the 90's, GM mounted the EVAP purge solenoid directly to the charcoal canister in some vehicles; and these canisters were too large to fit in the Fiero's canister mounting bracket -- so they won't work. But EVAP purge solenoids that I do know for sure that will work are those found on 3800 Series 2 n/a and SC engines. They have two vacuum ports and one electrical plug. I will see if I can get a picture of one posted to this thread later.
