Hey Darth the chip that came with my partial KFG kit has one of your chips. Chris Schoope turbo is written on the back of the Sinister Perf chip and v1.0. Can you give me some information on what its tuned for? I sent you an email about this days ago but I guess you missed it. Its pretty important since I hope to start driving it today.
I did get your email but I was out of town attending the Heartland Fieros car show this weekend. I just got back late last night so it may be a little while before I get caught up on the emails. I will respond to the email you sent.
No worries, I just got the car running last night. The EGR delete (per your email) explains a few things. Thanks for getting back to me so fast. You could of just sold me another chip even though the set ups are nearly identical. Good on ya man. I love honest vendors!
HELP ok i asked this question before and now its confusing me. ok so im swiching over the pins and if says move pin A1 to pin BA11 so whitch pin do i install it in B11 or A11???? i see the letters on the 7730 plugs but there are none that are BA they go A B C D E F no dubble letters?
HELP ok i asked this question before and now its confusing me. ok so im swiching over the pins and if says move pin A1 to pin BA11 so whitch pin do i install it in B11 or A11???? i see the letters on the 7730 plugs but there are none that are BA they go A B C D E F no dubble letters?
an anwser today would be awsome. thanks
B is for the black connector and then what ever pin it goes to. G is for the green or yellow connector whichever yours is.
send my brother, jon a pm. he could probably help you out a lot. he helps me out a lot on his fiero he gave me. er merlot566jka
------------------ 1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp to the wheels
Originally posted by 3.6lvvt6spdgt: got it now i just got to figure out the knocksensor wire where do i remove it from????? and ect
The single knock sensor wire is an additional wire since the Fiero did not have one. I did the 3.4L pushrod engine swap so I used the knock sensor wire and connector that came on the 3.4L engine. Do you have the knock sensor wire and connector from the donor car? It plugs into YD9 which is the Yellow 32 pin connector, side D, pin 9. I'm guessing you got the above answer on BA11 which is the Black 24 pin connector, side A, pin 11. The other Black connector is 32 pin, sides C and D.
On my swap I ended up deleting several wires too. Stuff like EGR.
D5 tan / blk est bypass move to BC7 must be disconnected to set base timing, see note1 below note1: A single wire weatherpack connector (similar to what is used for the O2 sensor) must be wired into this circuit so the circuit can be disconnected in order to put the ignition system into base timing mode so the base timing can be set using a timing light.
where do i install the wheather pack connector?
[This message has been edited by 3.6lvvt6spdgt (edited 08-25-2008).]
D5 tan / blk est bypass move to BC7 must be disconnected to set base timing, see note1 below note1: A single wire weatherpack connector (similar to what is used for the O2 sensor) must be wired into this circuit so the circuit can be disconnected in order to put the ignition system into base timing mode so the base timing can be set using a timing light.
where do i install the wheather pack connector?
You can put the single wire weatherpak connector in the bypass wire out by the distributor or inside the car by the ECM; your choice. Just remember it needs to be disconnected when you set base distributor ignition timing (puts ECM in set timing mode). Now if you are going to put this connector inside the car near the ECM, then you don't need a weatherpak connector; you could just use male/female blade connectors that can be crimped on which can be purchased at any auto parts store. I strongly recommned the use of sealed weatherpak connectors in the engine compartment to keep the connection from corroding since it will be exposed to the elements out there.
Concerning the knock sensor, if you read my wiring instructions it will tell you that you can actually use one of the Fiero EGR wires for this circuit and just tap into that wire out in the engine compartment to run down to your knock sensor -- will save you the trouble of having to add another wire to the harness. You will end up doing the same for another Fiero EGR wire to hook up the cooling fan to ECM control (also explained in the wiring instruction .pdf).
If you do this swap and don't use the digital EGR and don't hook up the electronic EVAP control solenoid, you should still end up having to add about 2 ground wires to the existing Fiero wiring harness. These two additional grounds are INJECTOR DRIVER grounds that connect the ECM to the engine block. Somebody earlier in this thread did this swap and forgot to hook these additional grounds up which resulted in a NO START condition. So make sure you don't skip this step or you will have issues.
I would be looking to realtime update capabilities using a flash instead of EPROM, also through modifying the communication protocol (download without EPROM burning is so nice...) I found the schematics on the web, so this seems doable, but I have not found a disassembly yet. Before I have to start from scratch, I'm sure someone has a (commented?) disassembly. Is that so? I have searched the web, but haven't come up with any results (I didn't search intensively though, I admit).
Anyone?
Best regards,
Oliver
------------------ Visit my website: www.fieros.de for lots of technical and other Fiero related information
I would be looking to realtime update capabilities using a flash instead of EPROM, also through modifying the communication protocol (download without EPROM burning is so nice...) I found the schematics on the web, so this seems doable, but I have not found a disassembly yet. Before I have to start from scratch, I'm sure someone has a (commented?) disassembly. Is that so? I have searched the web, but haven't come up with any results (I didn't search intensively though, I admit).
Anyone?
Best regards,
Oliver
step one take it apart step two rewire with diagram step three put it back together
ok, I just completed my 7730 conversion - (that took forever - my fault though - too many projects) and I have a strange issue now.
my tempurature gauge doesn't work now??? Any thoughts?
thanks
Matt
well, the temp gauge wire does not get changed in anyway for the 7730 swap follow the wires, make sure its plugged in good, maybe test with a dummy resistor
Darth, I finally got my 7730 conversion done with your chip (my fault I took so long, not yours). I am having some issues with WOT, which I use a lot because I am a psycho. Could I come up one day and have you tune the car? Do you have time, or should we do the remote thing, and I send you some number. If you would rather take this off list, just use my list email and let me know.
Darth, I finally got my 7730 conversion done with your chip (my fault I took so long, not yours). I am having some issues with WOT, which I use a lot because I am a psycho. Could I come up one day and have you tune the car? Do you have time, or should we do the remote thing, and I send you some number. If you would rather take this off list, just use my list email and let me know.
Thanks.
Please contact me via email about this issue at sp1@gmtuners.com
I'm having problems wiring my cooling fan to be controlled by the ecm. I ran a wire from GE8 pin to D1 Cooling fan request (c500) wire like the instructions said. My fan still didnt work so I just hooked the fan request wire to a toggle switch and grounded the other side to complete the circuit. This seems to work for now but I'd like the ecm to control the fan.
So my question is: Did I wire something incorrectly? Does the GE8 pin on the 7730 provide voltage or ground. I'd really like to figure this out. Everything else works like it should and the car runs great. The coolant temp guage even works.
I'm having problems wiring my cooling fan to be controlled by the ecm. I ran a wire from GE8 pin to D1 Cooling fan request (c500) wire like the instructions said. My fan still didnt work so I just hooked the fan request wire to a toggle switch and grounded the other side to complete the circuit. This seems to work for now but I'd like the ecm to control the fan.
So my question is: Did I wire something incorrectly? Does the GE8 pin on the 7730 provide voltage or ground. I'd really like to figure this out. Everything else works like it should and the car runs great. The coolant temp guage even works.
-Joseph
GE8 on the 7730 ECM is the cooling fan relay control driver; the ECM GROUNDs this circuit to turn the relay/fan on.
If you ground the wire you ran out to terminal D1 of the C500 connector and the fan comes on, but won't come on when hooked to the ECM, then either you have a connection problem at the ECM electrical connector, the ECM itself is bad, or the ECM isn't actually commanding the fan to turn on (due to not high enough coolant temperature read, coolant temp sensor issue, something in the chip programming, etc etc etc).
NOTE: the ECM may not command the radiator fan on unless the engine is running; but IIRC, these computers should activate the coolant fan to run with the key on but engine off if you short terminals A and B of the ALDL connector (like you would do to flash trouble codes thru the check engine light). If you short the ALDL and the fan runs, then the ECM's fan output driver is working and something else is causing the ECM not to activate the fan relay when you want it to.
Originally posted by Darth Fiero: You can put the single wire weatherpak connector in the bypass wire out by the distributor or inside the car by the ECM; your choice. Just remember it needs to be disconnected when you set base distributor ignition timing (puts ECM in set timing mode). Now if you are going to put this connector inside the car near the ECM, then you don't need a weatherpak connector; you could just use male/female blade connectors that can be crimped on which can be purchased at any auto parts store. I strongly recommned the use of sealed weatherpak connectors in the engine compartment to keep the connection from corroding since it will be exposed to the elements out there.
Concerning the knock sensor, if you read my wiring instructions it will tell you that you can actually use one of the Fiero EGR wires for this circuit and just tap into that wire out in the engine compartment to run down to your knock sensor -- will save you the trouble of having to add another wire to the harness. You will end up doing the same for another Fiero EGR wire to hook up the cooling fan to ECM control (also explained in the wiring instruction .pdf).
If you do this swap and don't use the digital EGR and don't hook up the electronic EVAP control solenoid, you should still end up having to add about 2 ground wires to the existing Fiero wiring harness. These two additional grounds are INJECTOR DRIVER grounds that connect the ECM to the engine block. Somebody earlier in this thread did this swap and forgot to hook these additional grounds up which resulted in a NO START condition. So make sure you don't skip this step or you will have issues.
-ryan
OK what wire by the distributor im not sure what wire i need to put the weather pac on. any one with a picture?
OK what wire by the distributor im not sure what wire i need to put the weather pac on. any one with a picture?
There is a tan wire with a black stripe that goes to the ignition module's 4-way connector. This is the bypass wire, and it needs to be disconnected from the ECM so base timing can be set.
hey darth, i havent gotten around finding that short due to the weather mostly. but jon was talking about it like he was expecting it to happen. he said its from the angle of the injectors on this setup and their proximity to the UIM. he said he delt with that problem too. so i get to dig in and find it. and im thinking of ways to keep the insulation from being worn down again.
------------------ 1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor
hey darth, i havent gotten around finding that short due to the weather mostly. but jon was talking about it like he was expecting it to happen. he said its from the angle of the injectors on this setup and their proximity to the UIM. he said he delt with that problem too. so i get to dig in and find it. and im thinking of ways to keep the insulation from being worn down again.
That's cool -- you find it when you find it; there's no rush (unless you are in a hurry). But it would be a good idea to find that problem and get it fixed so you don't end up frying the ECM.
well i am in a rush sorta. im trying to get the car driveable to a carshow about an hour and a half away on the 21st. this wiring issue along with the rain is just one BIG interruption for getting more tuning done.
ok, nuff of me highjacking this thread, back to the 7730.
------------------ 1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp at the motor
The water jacket drain hole I spoke about earlier that you can install the knock sensor into is already threaded -- all you need to do is remove the plug and install the knock sensor -- torque sensor to 13 ft/lbs.
I guess I forgot to ask, should I put anything on the threads of the knock sensor or will it be okay just putting it in and setting the torque to 13 ft/lbs?
For the EGR plate, where do you get those bolts? Is there a specific length that I should get?
I guess I forgot to ask, should I put anything on the threads of the knock sensor or will it be okay just putting it in and setting the torque to 13 ft/lbs?
For the EGR plate, where do you get those bolts? Is there a specific length that I should get?
-Brian
If you are installing the knock sensor into a coolant drain port, then you should use some liquid teflon paste thread sealant on the threads. DO NOT use teflon tape!
For the EGR plate bolts, your local hardware store should carry socket head (uses and allen wrench) metric cap screws. The thread diameter and pitch is 8mm x 1.25. Length is something you will need to measure; but if you extract the stock Fiero EGR studs, you can use that length + 5 or 10mm for the long bolts and I think the short ones for the EGR to adapter plate need to be 20mm. NOTE: bolt lengths given are measuring the length of the shank/threads and does not include the head of the bolt.
After the 7730 conversion, I have a battery drain now? Can anyone think of anything from the conversion that would cause that, I am still trying to trace it down.
