Factory switches , no longer in your face, relocated to the lower left where it's out of sight. Bottom side height still maintained for easy access to the fusebox.
March 23-24, 2013. Here is a link to the show site Daytona 2013
Dr. W.
P.S. I am hoping you will be in production and I have mine by the 30th Show at Indy in June
------------------ Is your Fastback GT's trunk seal shot? My Gen III replacement GT trunk seals with solid molded corners are now in production. $95 + $15 flat rate shipping to the US (contact me for international shipping rates) or buy two and pay only a single shipping rate! More info can be found here GT Trunk Seal Project
I just visited the waterjet people to approve the cad drawings finally. After cutting, the aluminum pieces will get a little more machining and bending afterwhich they'll all be powder coated in black & metallic silver.
Before I spray dye the stock armrest it needed some glueing to fix the delamination along the edges. Hopefully the urethane adhesive that I used will hold.
Before spraying the armrest with SEM Colorcoat, satin black vinyl dye a thorough cleaning was needed to remove wax oil & grease. I first washed the armrest with rubbing alcohol and then wiped it down with 'FinalClean' . SEM satin black dye works pretty well on vinyl and, with a spray adhesion promotor, sticks pretty good to hard plastic trim pieces as well.
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 01-01-2013).]
Whoever the previous owner was of this Formula he must have had a dog in it often because the old carpet was STANKY !. Cutting & stitching together some new flat carpet that I had sitting around for 10 years. The Monaco seats are very firm with high bolsters...great for drifting if I ever try it in this car.
Some G1 dash pieces cut on a waterjet. They say that the machine can cut anything. Will need to make a couple bends in the console panel then it's off to the powder coater.
Flat carpeting won't conform to the floorpan without cutting & stitching together the corners. I used the old carpet as a pattern.
I built a custom van interior years ago, and hired a kid who worked as a carpet installer to do the carpet work. He didn't stitch anything, he just used a carpet knife and some really damn good glue. It was beautiful, and still that way when I sold it years later. He was good, it was tough to locate a seam.
Whoever the previous owner was of this Formula he must have had a dog in it often because the old carpet was STANKY !. Cutting & stitching together some new flat carpet that I had sitting around for 10 years. The Monaco seats are very firm with high bolsters...great for drifting if I ever try it in this car.
The Monaco seat looks great. Do you think they would fit a Chop Top?
Originally posted by weaselbeak: I built a custom van interior years ago, and hired a kid who worked as a carpet installer to do the carpet work. He didn't stitch anything, he just used a carpet knife and some really damn good glue. It was beautiful, and still that way when I sold it years later. He was good, it was tough to locate a seam.
I can see how that would work. I may try that technique sometime.
Because of the rounded shape of the new G1 dash gauge pod it will be necessary to trim / cut off the upper corners of the stock factory instrument cluster. To avoid damage to the gauges they should be removed from the housing before beginning the cutting procedure.
Useful cutting tools : Cut-off wheel for the metal face plate, and a dremel with a rotary cutting bit for the plastic housing. (btw: a cut-off wheel attachment is available for the dremel tool )
Stock instrument cluster before trimming:
After trimming:
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 01-08-2013).]
Can you show a side picture of he cluster after it has been cut. I see the angle of the cut from the front, but want to see how looks from the side. Also a shot from the front after cutting without black cover plate...please & thank you.
[This message has been edited by TXOPIE (edited 01-08-2013).]
Instrument cluster modification shots. To avoid damage, remove gauges from housing before cutting/grinding. Cuts must be made along the blue lines. Be careful not to damage the printed circuit. Use some tape to hold the corner away.
Remove the steel bracket from the housing and slot the mounting holes with a round file by 1/2".
Instrument cluster installed angle is changed to 70 degrees. Place mounting bracket in a vice. Bend bracket back to 70 degrees.
Clean out all the grinding dust from the housing, and cover up the holes with duct tape.
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 01-09-2013).]
Originally posted by Amida: Flat carpeting won't conform to the floorpan without cutting & stitching together the corners. I used the old carpet as a pattern.
If you ever do this again, could you post pics/howto on how you did that?
The old adage about measuring twice before cutting has credence. A couple console panels were bent backwards, but luckily, not an issue for cars with 4/5 speed sticks. The auto stick slot should be on the right.
Also the dimmer switch from 80's Astrovan...look familiar, but in black?: (GM pt#15954529) Also ordered a used one of these to test before I purchase one of the NOS floating around:
I am going to pop off the top and utilize on one of fierostores aftermarket replacement grey units...will see if it worked like the camaro tops for the window switches...if you are looking for a easy, but brand new looking set of window switches...purchase these and pop the tops off and place them on your old fiero switches...wala!!! switch face-lift: http://www.rickscamaros.com...ssell=Product_Viewed
Also planning on doing the same trick with flipping out the top on this one as well for the stock rear defrost switch:
Also scored this beauty on E-Bay:
Which will fit nicely into the VW window switches I am decided on utilizing once I get the plastic mounting piece wrapped in carbon fiber wrap:
Sorry...if I shared too much, but thought I would let others see how I plan to finish off my Rob's G1 upgrade.
[This message has been edited by TXOPIE (edited 01-18-2013).]
Identical...perfect swap...came in two flavors...black and white for the Camaro & black with yellow markings for the Z28.
The part that I would love some assistance in locating a replacement for in black is the rear trunk release switch:
This is a unique switch...just like so many other parts on a Fiero...and what I mean by that is the following...it seems 99% of this type of rocker arm switches are built in two pieces (just like the Fiero's).
One piece is holds the electronics and the other...is the rocker arm itself...Now these two pieces snap together with holes on one of the pieces and two spring loaded pegs of some sort on the other piece.
Long story...short...the Fiero's trunk release switch has the two holes on the "rocker arm" piece and the pegs on the "electronic's" piece.
Every other Trunk release switch that might fit and work in that space...is reveresed. Meaning the "rocker arm" piece has the pegs and the "electronic's" piece has the two holes.
Here is a thought and please everyone step up and let me know...how many people would be interested in a set of brand new "BLACK" Defrost & Trunk Release switches?
The FieroStore has someone making reproduction of both switches...how many do we need and how much to a run in black of both switch...They can call them the "Amida" edition switches!
Please Give Feedback
[This message has been edited by TXOPIE (edited 01-16-2013).]
The FieroStore has someone making reproduction of both switches...how many do we need and how much to a run in black of both switch...They can call them the "Amida" edition switches!
Please Give Feedback
The Fiero store trunk release is horrible quality and I would stay away from it if possible unless they have made improvements I am not aware of. My complaint is in the way it lights up. The plastic is thin and the light shines through more than just the little window that it's supposed to. I'll go get a picture such that you can see for yourself.
The Fiero store trunk release is horrible quality and I would stay away from it if possible unless they have made improvements I am not aware of. My complaint is in the way it lights up. The plastic is thin and the light shines through more than just the little window that it's supposed to. I'll go get a picture such that you can see for yourself.
+1 I agree completely, their switches are junk. I ended up taking mine apart and painting the backside to keep the light from coming through.
Dr. W.
------------------ Is your Fastback GT's trunk seal shot? My Gen III replacement GT trunk seals with solid molded corners are now in production. $95 + $15 flat rate shipping to the US (contact me for international shipping rates) or buy two and pay only a single shipping rate! More info can be found here GT Trunk Seal Project
The plastic is thin and the light shines through more than just the little window that it's supposed to.
A minor issue that can be corrected with some black paint. I would be more concerned with the state of the rocker mechanism and and the electrical contacts.
Pontiac Solstice dash vents GM part# 1582-4746. If you are getting the G1 dash do-it-yourself kit you will need to locate/purchase 5 vents. If I am completing the upholstery for you then I can order new vent sets from the GM dealer.
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 01-19-2013).]
Fi355 door release mechanism fabrication, very labor intensive$$$, but necessary for the 355 pistol grip handle design.
Hey Rob, just wondering why you don't water-jet these plates to save you time and labor. Could you get some of these items CNC'd for less money as well?
Oohhhhh, the agony! 
