I am currently testing out a couple of different ways to increase the lever travel on the G6 door levers. The increased lever travel should eliminate the door lock jamming issue by adding more slack in the system.
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Originally posted by Chris_86GT:
I had the same issue with the BMW series5 door handle, couldn’t make it work right if fitted directly to the linkage rod. So I tried the cable that BMW has (yellow end) and make a bracket to connect with the rod (see pic). If you like I will take a better pic because it doesn’t saws how they connect in this one. It works flawless so far and I can move the panel if I like (forward, backward) since the cable absorbs small movements.
Hope to find a working solution soon, lots of great cars waits your door panels.
I checked today the travel of the BMW door handle it is around 18-19mm vs fiero 37-38mm. in order to open the door I fully extend the BMW handle, I have no slack in my setup. I must reconsider my setup because the tolerance (I guess) is 1-2mm and I don’t think that it’s safe. Till now it works but I want to eliminate the possibility of opening the door from outside . I have already thought a way to increase handle travel. You have right to add more slack in the system.
Rob...I hope things are progressing well with the G1 door panels and we all get an update soon...I had to go with these hopefully temporary panels for now:
You ran into a similar problem...shorter than required lever actuation.
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Originally posted by Chris_86GT:
I checked today the travel of the BMW door handle it is around 18-19mm vs fiero 37-38mm. in order to open the door I fully extend the BMW handle, I have no slack in my setup. I must reconsider my setup because the tolerance (I guess) is 1-2mm and I don’t think that it’s safe. Till now it works but I want to eliminate the possibility of opening the door from outside . I have already thought a way to increase handle travel. You have right to add more slack in the system.
Rob...I hope things are progressing well with the G1 door panels and we all get an update soon...I had to go with these hopefully temporary panels for now:
UPDATE: The release levers will be outfitted with 5/8" welded steel extensions to increase lever travel similar to stock specs.
On the door release lever issue. I discovered that the cast aluminum pull lever has a bump stop on the back side that can be ground away. Removing the bump stop allows another 3/16" linkage travel which is enough to eliminate the door lock jamming issue. It does so by adding enough slack in the system so that the lever does not engage the door release mechanism when the lever is in the rest position.
I am currently experimenting with a clevis pin & clip setup to see if it would be better/stronger than using a screw & locknut. For one thing I'm finding that it is very easy to drop the locknut inside the door and the hair pin clip is easier to handle. However, my main concern would be that over time after so many pull cycles that the pin might bend due to the offset of the linkage in relation to the lever. But perhaps the spring tension isn't high enough to worry about the pin bending.
Release lever with clevis pin. The string was tied onto the link after dropping it into the door several times which is very difficult to fish out. Wrapping it with a little masking tape also works. JB weld epoxy is used to eliminate pin wiggle within the lever and a push-on retainer is used to secure it.
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 03-05-2016).]
I am eagerly awaiting to see the finished product. Will make a nice addition to my Amida dash that I'm currently installing.
Question ? Where did those cool billet Power window switches come from? Also, is that a power mirror control between them. If so where did it come from? Although my switch gear is new, it looks tired.
You might be talking about Troyboy's car. You should send him a PM.
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Originally posted by dkh1020: Question ? Where did those cool billet Power window switches come from? Also, is that a power mirror control between them. If so where did it come from? Although my switch gear is new, it looks tired.
In an effort to save on cost using an insert panel was not part of the original plan. However, the plan had to be changed after having difficulty with a stitched insert during the upholstery process. Therefore, I had to go back and redesign a separate insert panel into the plan. Here, an ABS insert panel, cut by a waterjet, is being test fitted. A finger recess had to be formed on a vacuum jig, and a couple of mounting holes needed to be moved due to interference with the door mounted cross bar. So, the effort to save on cost actually ended up costing more. Funny how that happens.
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 11-22-2015).]
UPDATE: The release levers will be outfitted with 5/8" welded steel extensions to increase lever travel similar to stock specs.
Unlike a cable actuated door release where positioning of the lever is not so important the Fiero door release mechanism uses a pull rod and positioning of the lever is very important. Positioning too far to the rear creates too much slack and the lever will not open the door. On the other hand positioning too far forward will pre-load the mechanism and interfere with the door lock causing jamming. The ideal position, I have found, is where the lever is moved forward just enough to remove all of the slack in the rod. At this position the door should open within the last 1/4" of the finger lever pull.
Here, I am experimenting with different size connecting links to find the right length. I've made several lengths from 5/8" - 1 7/16". In the photo I am using 1 1/8".
The BIG question is will all Fieros use the same size link or will there be variability?
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 03-05-2016).]
Door release lever testing continues. This time with a 5/8" welded steel release lever extension which will increase the lever length to near stock Fiero specs. Holding up very well after 2000 pull cycles so far.
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 12-03-2015).]
Rob, can you post pics of the different door panels you make, I have an upcoming project that will need door panels and I'd like to see what you have that might work, also did you ever sell the extended windshields you had?
There's only the Fi355 & G1. You can see the Fi355 on pg 32-33. My pair of Trevor extended windshields are not for sale. However, if someone wants to make me a fantastic-just-gotta-have-it offer then I may consider it.
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Originally posted by motoracer838:
Rob, can you post pics of the different door panels you make, I have an upcoming project that will need door panels and I'd like to see what you have that might work, also did you ever sell the extended windshields you had?
Thanks, Joe
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 12-08-2015).]
Door panel looks great!!! Is that a tweeter in the lower corner and if so, will you make, perhaps, 1998 Firebird-style speaker housing down there?
It is a cap to cover the window hand crank. I'm using SPAL aftermarket power windows which I installed several years back for my Fi355 interior. Sorry, no speaker housings.
There's only the Fi355 & G1. You can see the Fi355 on pg 32-33. My pair of Trevor extended windshields are not for sale. However, if someone wants to make me a fantastic-just-gotta-have-it offer then I may consider it.
Thanks Rob. for some reason I thought you had more. What are you expecting the bare G1 door panels to go for?
Another round of test fitting using test panel #2. Black trunk lining was added to the upholstery to see how it would look. Switches were added for the SPAL aftermarket power window kit which was installed previously. Manual window crank handles are replaced with round caps.
After 5000+ pull cycles the 5/8" welded steel lever extension performed perfectly. I noticed slight polishing of the clevis pin, but no bending or galling. I am confident that this is the better alternative than without using an extension. However, a few additional labor hours will add to the fabrication cost.
[This message has been edited by Amida (edited 01-18-2016).]
. I have already thought a way to increase handle travel. You have right to add more slack in the system.
Yea!
