The mefi is cool little unit and the prices reflect the shear numbers these things are produced for water craft. Although not as comprehensive as the oem box, it'll git'er done.
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
[This message has been edited by ccfiero350 (edited 10-27-2007).]
I've been swamped at work and had not posted in a while.
The exhaust was put together with some 3" stainless and a new metal substrate cat.
The cat sorta looks like a stretched out hieneken can.
To de-couple the engine from the exhaust system I put in a 6" long bellows to keep from cracking anything.
The mufflers will be these 4" Super Trapps I pick up cheap at a swap meet. I modified the cases by cutting the reducing cones at 3" dia. and inverted the remainder to center the core tube. The inside cone exit diameter is now 2 1/2".
I made a notch templete and cut the tubes with the plasma cutter and welded them up.
I have to say it was a pita the get them positioned and tacked together. I had to work backward from the muffler Y pipe to the bellows. I decided not to weld it all up untill it's in the notchie. It being as short as it is there not a lot of room for error.
You can see a little bit of that inversion cone down the case.
From the top side view I'll have a nice little trunk warmer.
I wanted a slightly differant look then the regular twin tips of a 4 banger but something that did not say coffee can.
The thing I really like about the SuperTrapps is you can tune them by changing the number of diffuser disks are if you really want to be obnoxios is leave the cores completely out and run open headers.
After all this was done I had some second thoughts and I'm thinking about cutting it apart again and run the pipes out the license plate recease like I did for the V8. I'll probably figure what I want to do by the time I need to finish out the exhaust after the motor is in the notchie.
I've begun the prep work on the notchie, ass end in the air, fluids drained, electricals disconected. If all goes well I should have the old duke out this weekend.
I will be selling some parts from the duke if anybody is interested.
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
------------------ 1984 Fiero SE, White, first love, sold... 1986 Fiero SE 2M6, gold 1988 Fiero 2M4, the Fox 1987 Fiero GT, Blue, 3.4/4T40 Still looking for that perfect CJB 88 GT...
How much for the vacuum lines? What do the air cleaner and valve cover look like? EGR? BTW nice work on the eco.
------------------ 1984 Fiero SE, White, first love, sold... 1986 Fiero SE 2M6, gold 1988 Fiero 2M4, the Fox 1987 Fiero GT, Blue, 3.4/4T40 Still looking for that perfect CJB 88 GT...
------------------ 1984 Fiero SE, White, first love, sold... 1986 Fiero SE 2M6, gold 1988 Fiero 2M4, the Fox 1987 Fiero GT, Blue, 3.4/4T40 Still looking for that perfect CJB 88 GT...
Removed the old duke and seperated it from the transmission. Did a quicky post mortum on the duke. It appears the oil pump failed first, then when the lifters collasped I lost a cylinder, then the bearings went after that.
The naked duke.
Today I'm removing the rear clip to weld up some extra holes and prep for the IMSA wide body.
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
I took the duke long block carcase to the scrap yard and found the long block, starter, clutch & flywheel and water pump weighed in at 320 lbs. on the scales dry. I think the ecotec shipped at 500lbs complete with axles on a pallet.
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
I pulled the rear clip to pre-pair for the install of a IMSA wide body which I'll start a new thread on later when it comes to the body work.
Mandatory naked butt in the air picture.
Had some rot under the battery tray. The horizontal flat was just gone but the frame rail was okay.
I removed all the cancerous metal. The previous owner sprayed a bunch of under coat in a can over most of the rusty area. Will have to clean it off before I paint the engine bay.
Did a trunkectomey to clear the exhaust.
Removed an ear from the old torque strute mount to clean it up a tad.
Also removed the lower bolt of the lid hinge for a little clearance and wieght savings.
I dropped the fuel tank for a pump change and will exchanged the bent coolent tubes for a pair of strait ones I have next.
Everybody have a nice holiday!
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
Had not had a chance to do much work on the car in the last couple of weeks but got some time in tonight and replaced the fuel pump.
The old pump appears to be the original AC/Delco unit. The sock filter was dark chocolate brown and was coming apart.
The fuel level sender was in good shape for 117K miles, was not burnt and was fairly accurite. I took it apart and cleaned the rust residue off the contact points and put it back together.
Being a TBI motor the short hose connecting the pump to the fuel line was just a thick non-reforced rubber hose. These crumblies came out when I gently rolled the hose between my fingers. How long do you think, if you have a poorly running duke and you sprung a leak here you would find it?
Here's a side by side of a few in tank pumps, left to right, HP 255L/hr, 255L/hr and the original AC/Delco.
The side view shows the HP unit has a little more motor in it the the regular 255L/hr unit and is fits great in the fiero sending unit hanger.
The bag filter end shows a little differant pick up location and diameter diffance, also the middle 255L/hr has a metal end piece.
You can see down inside the inlet and see the exposed gearoter of the pump itself. This particular pump is a replacement for my truck with a 383 TPI motor which likes to run at 38-42 psi. The ecotec on the other hand likes 58-62 psi, hence the HP pump.
The pump is ready to go back into the tank. The fuel pump kit comes with a new piece of hose and clamps plus gaskets and filter sockets. Also included is a new wiring adapter from the old harnes to the new pump.
At this point when the fuel sender is hanging in the air it reads about 3 ohms. When in the tank, it read 29 ohms. Zero being empty and 90 full I bent the float arm a little so when assembled in a dry tank it reads 6 ohms, close enough.
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
I was able to put in some time this weekend but nothing very exciting. I needed to clean off all the under coat that was applied to the inside of the trunk.
I sprayed biodiesel on all the under coat which soften it to something like chocolate syrup then blast it off with a pressure washer, repeat 3 times then wash with detergent, rinse. What a frick'n mess. You can see a before picture of the trunk posted earler. It still has an oily feel in some places. I think I'll need to get some solvent on it before paint, at least it won't catch fire when I weld on it.
While there was still some light I removed the unused torque brace.
I got an on site gig till the end of the year and have not been able to put in some quality time on the notchie but I did spend most of the day on it today.
The ecotec visits it new home for the first time. The cradle bolts lined up better in the notchie then the fastback.
Before the motor went in I pulled the the electronic TB off to measure and make an adapter to mount the LS manual TB. The LS measures 75mm at the blade and the ecotec is 68mm,
The big differance is the 98mm air hose attachment diameter on the LS, the ecotec is 75mm. One of the mods will be to fill the bleed oriface in the LS with expoy and re-drill it for something with 3 liters less displacement. I would like to keep the electronic version but the mefi4 contoller does not support it.
Looking into the compressor inlet the ID is 72mm so it will be a good match for the stock LS throttlebody and a pully upgrade.
I'll use the 2 screws on the left that used to hold the filler resevoir for the heat exchanger.
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
That is one siiiiiick exhaust man... freakin' sweet! I can't wait to hear that supercharger with your exhaust... they sound cool in stock form in the Cobalts, I can only imagine what your setup will sound like.
Glad to see you're not hitting ungodly massive hurdles like with my Ecotec. It looks as though we both had similar battery tray rot-out. I did a relocation to the front with mine to shift some weight from the rear to the front. Since the Ecotec is 50 lbs lighter than the Duke, and a car battery weighs about 30 lbs, doing this engine swap with a battery relocation helps to balance out the car better than any other combination of mods out there.
So where were you planning on mounting your fusebox? I found a perfect home for mine under the driver side decklid vent. Not sure if the LSJ is the same box or not, but if it is, then it fits like a glove in that spot with minimal effort. Since my battery wasn't under the passenger side vent anymore, I swapped the thumbscrews between the driver and passenger side vents, so now I can access the fuse box without any tools.
Here's a pic of mine:
If you need more detailed pics, let me know. I can pop by the car on Monday.
Later!
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 12-30-2007).]
I've been swamped at work and had not posted in a while.
The exhaust was put together with some 3" stainless and a new metal substrate cat.
The cat sorta looks like a stretched out hieneken can.
To de-couple the engine from the exhaust system I put in a 6" long bellows to keep from cracking anything.
The mufflers will be these 4" Super Trapps I pick up cheap at a swap meet. I modified the cases by cutting the reducing cones at 3" dia. and inverted the remainder to center the core tube. The inside cone exit diameter is now 2 1/2".
I made a notch templete and cut the tubes with the plasma cutter and welded them up.
I have to say it was a pita the get them positioned and tacked together. I had to work backward from the muffler Y pipe to the bellows. I decided not to weld it all up untill it's in the notchie. It being as short as it is there not a lot of room for error.
You can see a little bit of that inversion cone down the case.
From the top side view I'll have a nice little trunk warmer.
I wanted a slightly differant look then the regular twin tips of a 4 banger but something that did not say coffee can.
The thing I really like about the SuperTrapps is you can tune them by changing the number of diffuser disks are if you really want to be obnoxios is leave the cores completely out and run open headers.
After all this was done I had some second thoughts and I'm thinking about cutting it apart again and run the pipes out the license plate recease like I did for the V8. I'll probably figure what I want to do by the time I need to finish out the exhaust after the motor is in the notchie.
I've begun the prep work on the notchie, ass end in the air, fluids drained, electricals disconected. If all goes well I should have the old duke out this weekend.
I will be selling some parts from the duke if anybody is interested.
Where did you get the 360deg exhaust pipe? I had found only one supplier but, they overseas.
The 3" pipe is too big to have any good scavenging effect on a 2.0l motor, it will be loud but will not present any back pressure unless I remove about half the discs from the supertrapp mufflers. The only reason for the big tubes is I had some left over and I found a pre-machined header flange to mount to the stock cast iron exhaust manifold that was for, you guess it, 3" tube.
Also being supercharged to 16 psi, there is about twice as much exhuast at full boost then a N/A motor, so you can bump the diameter up a bit and use it.
Now that I have the ecotec in the notchie I am going to redo the exhuast and use the Tsudo header after I make some more room for it. The LSJ has about 10-15 more hp's just by freeing up the exhaust and I have an IMSA widebody going on it so the tips are probably in the wrong place anyway.
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
I got to work on the fiero only one day during the Holidays so this is what I did on New Years Day. I mocked up the rear suspension in the notchie with HHP new rear 1 1/4" sway bar to see if every thing was copacetic.
The bar is real easy to put in with the removable arms.
Everything fits fine with all the new hardware.
The Cobolt axles had about an inch of plunge each when the lower links were set horizontal, pretty good. I can't wait to try them out on the track.
The Stock wheels have plenty of clearance.
Stock GT wheel to set the stage.
This measurement is from the frame just behind the strut tower.
This is a 16x9 rim with 4 3/4" backspace or about +5mm offset, same measurement point.
This is an old Ronal magnesium 3 pc. racing rim, it wieghs in at about 13 lbs.
Here's the real show.
,
This off set should fill up the IMSA wide body.
I had welded up an exhuast system with the stock ecotec cast iron manifold becuase the headers I bought would not fit with out hitting the front boot wall. I really hated the idea of using the manifold so in the end I desided to lose the trunk all together and make room for the pipes. I'll but in some cross bracing and a strut bar to replace the missing structure.
AAHHH Breathing room!
There wild be some 1" sqr. tube diagonal that will tie the top of the towers back down and I'll re-route the brake lines to the front of the engine bay. Off course now I have to make another exhaust system.
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
Got to work on the car two days since the last time I posted, life has gotten pretty busy this year so far.
I expanded the trunk ectomy to the flat sides of the strut towers.
I ground down the paint were the upper engine mount will be welded.
I tacked the outside ear to the strut tower while the engine was in place and then dropped the cradle to fully weld the ear in place.
Then repeat for the inside ear.
So you end up with a nice, simple strong mount.
After I finished welding and test fitted the engine again it became appearent that I have to bolt the back of the sub-frame first, then line up and slide the bolts in on the front to get the upper engine mount threw the new ears rather then my usual methode of pinning the front and rotating the back up and bolting in. The back side of the inner ear strap is in the path of the arc the upper engine mount goes through when I attempted this way.
Next will be putting some structure back in with some cross bracing and a strut tower brace.
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
Simple, elegant solutions are sometimes hard to come by, some times they smack you in the face, but most times it doing it a bunch of times untill it's rendered down to the simplest, easiest, best fix.
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
Simple, elegant solutions are sometimes hard to come by, some times they smack you in the face, but most times it doing it a bunch of times untill it's rendered down to the simplest, easiest, best fix.
Best sentence ever.
Your swap doing great, I love mine (L61 tho) and wouldnt choose another engine over it! But Id always a different motor/car combo to the stable later on.
Did you have interference with the oil pan, I cannot remember if the LSJ is different or not.
, 
