Oops, updates: sanded and primered the inner sailpanels
mockup with the mesh I want to use on the vents.
BUT I am having some serious fuelsystem issues. I'll try to keep it short because I already have a thread about this (which I should update btw..) Old pump (less than 10Kmiles) quits working after 10 minutes of driving. So I replaced the pump last week
replaced filter too and lookie what I found ..rust particals....have seen that before in my injectors
pump works good, engine ran bad so I pulled fuelrail to check the injectors
they looked good and clean, put them back.....no starting. in short:looks like a dead battery and/or starter now (I have a batterycharger)....I hope to do some bodywork finishing next days because technically it isn't going great.
this was a quick sketch I had done about a month ago before I ended up getting two notchbacks.. it was designed to mimic one of Aus's front hood chops.. but the vents along the sides could easily move over next to the solid pillars
I started drawing clear hatch ideas when Ducattiman asked for a F40 type of hatch for his BMW V12 conversion...
So I have been researching the F40 style rearhatch for some time now, but I dont know how to make these shapes in plexiglass only...plus I am looking for a cleaner style for the "stock" fastback and trying to make it relatively easy to build.
The idea is a twin-hatch: stock decklid with the middle piece cutout and an added fiberglass piece (between the sailpanels). The seperate top piece has a fiberglass frame with a piece of "bendable" plexiglass plate that can be screwed or popped in place. It is hinged to the rear roof. Ideally it would be nice to have some linkage between the upper/lower hatch so you could open the decklid the normal way and the top hatch would move up a bit more so they dont hit. A one-piece design would be much more difficult to build because it needs to be hinged at the roofsection which is to weak to bear all that weight without reinforcing. Ow btw, I will also try to incorporate a row of small vents on both sides (like the newer ferrari's) so the rest can stay smooth and clean. This is one of the latest ideas. I am not going to do this to mine soon, but maybe in the future...hehe.
I need to update the buildup. I havent done much but there are some new detailing pics and ideas I will post as soon as possible.
yeah I was planning to have it be a 2 peice also - the idea was to have two struts positioned like Kameo's rear sun deflector .. i think that last pic of yours chopped but adding some rows of vents at the very top (high suction and it doesn't block any view) and down the very edges would look very very slick
Some mods to the sideskirts (I had to use the stabilisers "somewhere"!) Mockup: Weatherproof Leds: Testing:
Now it would be nice to shave the moldings on the fiero but I know I break stuff so I want the bodypanels being removable.....but that doesn't mean you cant smooth anything. I have been looking at the triangle thingie: And thought about something like this (PS): I think I will do this mod...
I will also try to take some pics of the smoothed (not shaved!) doorhandles and the cleaned up underside of the hoodvent.
man i was hoping to be the first.. I want to do the shaved attached to the doors for my suicide lambo doors to keep the lines smooth when the door is open without a huge notch missing from the front of the door
edit: on secodn thought that would then look funny if the windows were down with the door up, hmm
[This message has been edited by Kohburn (edited 09-16-2004).]
yeah I was planning to have it be a 2 peice also - the idea was to have two struts positioned like Kameo's rear sun deflector .. i think that last pic of yours chopped but adding some rows of vents at the very top (high suction and it doesn't block any view) and down the very edges would look very very slick
Untill now I have looked more for a nice "shape" than "function" in the first ideas... but a good combination is the challenge Yes, efficient venting and a clear view is the main challenge I guess... So I are you going to build yours?
Originally posted by Kohburn: man i was hoping to be the first.. I want to do the shaved attached to the doors for my suicide lambo doors to keep the lines smooth when the door is open without a huge notch missing from the front of the door
edit: on secodn thought that would then look funny if the windows were down with the door up, hmm
Well, I have my windows up and the doors closed most of the time I think the mirrors also stand out much more natural with the triangle smoothed to the doors. I tried M3 style mirrors, they were different but not better looking than the stock mirrors. Plus a lot of work to make them fit. Skipped that one. The polished stock mirrors are now part of a set of polished/chrome/aluminium accents on my fiero. This mod might make them look even better... I hope
I was planning to build the hatch for the fastback - but i don't have one maybe another time.. the idea with the struts was when they were downat resting height they were attached to the decklid at an angle that allowed the glass to auto lift away from the deck when it was opened - but you could also just pop the glass portion and the gas struts would raise it.. not entirely sure how to do it but it would be darn sweet
as for the triangles by the mirror - they deffinately look good.. for me its just a matter of do they stay attached to the frame, or do they travel with the door.. maybe if they were molded into the door and then the mirrors had little camaro/vette style wind defflectors between the mirror and the triangle portion to blend it all together..
I have seen the Vette style wind deflectors on Fiero's and I think they dont look good. The mirror is too far back to smooth it nicely with the triangle. Instead I want the mirror to stand out more by accenting the border (doorskin+smoothed triangle molded to the door) which has a nice matching curve. I am still thinking about the best way to do it (and if I should do it!) but I think it will become reality in the end...
"Smoothing" is is what it is all about in the rest of this post pics of today. years of work....hehe. Some more smoothing of the rearpanel and the rearclip:
Smoothing of the underside of the fronthood vent: notice the hinge vents
And the smoothed (not shaved!) doorhandles: Thanks for looking.
And the smoothed (not shaved!) doorhandles: Thanks for looking.
Oooo....how did you go about doing this? I swapped my grooved molding on my SE to the smooth kind, and the handle just doesn't look quite right. I was just going to remove that piece that is stuck on the handle and call it good, but want it to match the molding. It looks really good!
Oooo....how did you go about doing this? I swapped my grooved molding on my SE to the smooth kind, and the handle just doesn't look quite right. I was just going to remove that piece that is stuck on the handle and call it good, but want it to match the molding. It looks really good!
I've often thought about doing that, but I'm not sure that an epoxy or body filler would sustain the wear & tear on those... any more details on these Fie Ro?
Originally posted by MinnGreenGT: I've often thought about doing that, but I'm not sure that an epoxy or body filler would sustain the wear & tear on those... any more details on these Fie Ro?
I used body filler on the original doorhandle, the finer filler stuff seems a little stronger. It looks it holds up fine. Plus the original doorhandle looks strong enough to prevent flexing and cracking.
It's getting closer to paint! At least its finally back on the road again. It cost more than a month and several new parts but after getting a fuelpressure gauge it showed some idiot sent the wrong fuelpump to start with! Anyway, some new parts never hurt... I looked for a piece of metal to mount my new FPgauge, first piece I found was the spare shim that came with the new starter motor! exactly what I was looking for! No drilling required.
The new rearbumper has gotten another hundreds of houres of sanding and sculpting, but it just has to be finished soon or it never will! The car really needs some ass.
Most of the time now is spend on smoothing the smaller details of the body
I have a new small added piece to the frontscoop (pics when finished) and I have looked over several "smoothing the mirror triangle thingie" options and I guess I have decided I will do it and also how to do it... ! Painting is postponed by another two weeks!
------------------ 1987 Fiero concept GTR in progress... 1969 Chevy Suburban
Originally posted by madcurl: Make sure those fuel hoses are the correct rating? Question: why didn't you go with breaded fuel lines?
Well I only needed a fueltester to determine the problem first. Dressing up isn't the issue right now! I had to do some fabbing and ripped some fuelhoses from a (rare) 3.1 beretta in a junkyard. They do the job well, I still have 20psi on the gauge 2 houres after shutting off the engine
quote
Originally posted by madcurl: You could get the ones that are mounted on the A-piller inside the car?
I know you love reusing existing parts They could work...hmmmm! Will have a look at that... I want to use the stock triangles as a mold for the backside...they're already there and they have the right shape. after that I will remove them so the new pieces wont hit and have around 1/2inch of extra space behind them when they're molded to the doorskin. But first I need a trip to my fiberglass supplier...I am out of resin.
I don't know what your spending limits are but, for $69 US I got Dakota Digital fuel gauge. There might be cheaper ones available? Anyway, using a 2 or 3 A-piller gauge pod w/electrical sending a unit...you can have them right in front of you. It's a little more safer IMO. Especially since you using used hoses. Just be careful.
Normally on a stock 2.8 it's a tin/steel line that is threaded into fuel rail. With all of the heat back there, those rubber hose just might give out? With all of the work you put into the car, I would hate to see it go up in flames.
Originally posted by madcurl: With all of the heat back there, those rubber hose just might give out? With all of the work you put into the car, I would hate to see it go up in flames.
I agree. I'd cry if I saw ths car go up. LOL Ok not really but it would be a very sad situation. I love what your doing with the car. Can't wait to see it finished. Mike
------------------ MSN messenger :Silentassassin_185@hotmail.com Yahoo ID :Silentassassin185@yahoo.com
That's going to be one nice package when it's all painted and finished out. I can't believe the time it would take to mold and make those panels. Heck, I just want my 84s to turn on. I'll be happy with that.
Do the vents on the front hood duct to the radiator for additional cooling, or closed off, or what?
I know it's a phase and it will pass in a couple years (like billet on hot rod roadsters), but what about some carbon fiber inserts? The NACA ducting with carbon fiber panels laid down in the depressions, or inserts in the front grills would set off those areas, and then a deep silver or charcoal overall paint. They're even now making carbon fiber - look vinyl for highlights on interiors.
Each time I check the pics, I get just a leeeetle more jealous. run, dang you, Runnnnnn!!!!!!!
------------------ Hmmm, let's see. It's either me or the junkyard, you say? Oh, what the heck. I'll take it. C'mere, little friend. There's a spot in the garage just for you.
Originally posted by madcurl: Normally on a stock 2.8 it's a tin/steel line that is threaded into fuel rail. With all of the heat back there, those rubber hose just might give out? With all of the work you put into the car, I would hate to see it go up in flames.
I wouldn't worry too much since most cars now have plastic quick connect fuel lines and plastic fuel rails/intakes.
Madcurl: I will be doing another engine and another dash within a year. like I said this is a setup for the timebeing...first I am focused on the body I am just glad it is a daily driver again. I am already researching many gauge options though
Sewing guy: its gonna be painted gunmetal grey. I am thinking of some CF inserts for the front/rear but they can be added later (like a plugin piece). But I will use a few aluminium strips in the detailing when it is painted.
One of these days I will get some new fiberglass supplies and I will get also some of the foamstuff Archie uses (I'll use it for the dashproject) and I might grab some CF to play with Is working with CF the same as working with fiberglass? I know you have to bake it to make F1 strength pieces but thats out of reach ...Otherwise I guess its just like working with fiberglass?
Originally posted by sewing_guy: Do the vents on the front hood duct to the radiator for additional cooling, or closed off, or what?
They're functional. In fact the fronthoodvent had the biggest effect on front handling too, it feels like the front sticks better to the road with them. The nose feels a bit like the stock GT nose AFTER I mounted the windsplitter. Before I did that it feeled much too light in the front....It all sounds a bit subjective but I have driven the car in numerous bodyconfigurations and it feels quite good right now with this setup. I guess it also lost some weight because the fiberglassbumpers are way lighter than the stock bumpers.
Today I got some chemicals and stuff to play with:
Real carbon fiber!:
Did some more PS tryouts on the triangle thingie:
a PS on my own fiero, original:
Now this would be relatively easy to make; A little raised edge molded to the door, and a CF cap mounted on the stock triangle...: Thanks to sewing_guy to remind me of CF
Originally posted by Fie Ro: Is working with CF the same as working with fiberglass? I know you have to bake it to make F1 strength pieces but thats out of reach ...Otherwise I guess its just like working with fiberglass?
if you want strength and aren't using it cosmeticly you can do it the same as any hand layed fiberglass.. as far as baking that is for certain types of resin most generate their own heat if they require heat at all.
to really do cosmetic CF you can lay if up then put a clear coat ontop and polish smooth..
from my experience CF was the hardest to work with - i much prefer kevlar
Baked a cake (that was fun!): Cut some pieces (and did a mockup): Still thinking of different options of mounting and smoothing....details details details...but its fun to do those little accents...if they work. Skip them if they dont. Looking at the pictures I just changed my mind again
Originally posted by Fie Ro: Still thinking of different options of mounting and smoothing....details details details...but its fun to do those little accents...if they work. Skip them if they dont. Looking at the pictures I just changed my mind again
man i really like how you caried the seem acros along the edge of the mirror..
I think those mirrors are too big.....sorry, not trying to bash you. I have tried a such a setup with M3 style mirrors and they just didn't look right. I skipped them finally. Now my challenge is to incorporate the stock mirrors in an updated design...
Your vented hood is soooo what I want!!!...and need. Maybe in ten or twenty years when you have time you can give the dimensions for cutting etc. and the procedure. And your steeper taper/shorter front end is brilliant, elegant/simple/ a bit 944 meets 2004
Honestly, I think your creation deserves a real color. No offense Madcurl.
Cheers, (raises glass) awesome job!
------------------ track/street 87'gt 3.4L OHV Westers' tuning Herb Adams, 8shark susp. WCF Alum Bushings Konis, ST's, Crane Vented discs, s.s. brake lines Porterfield pads & heat treated rotors Pole Position SO-3's Front battery, Dickman Getrag linkage & short throw and on and on
[This message has been edited by 2fn4wrds (edited 10-13-2004).]
Originally posted by 2fn4wrds: Your vented hood is soooo what I want!!!...and need. Maybe in ten or twenty years when you have time you can give the dimensions for cutting etc. and the procedure. And your steeper taper/shorter front end is brilliant, elegant/simple/ a bit 944 meets 2004
Thanks! If you're thinking ten or twenty years than I better give some measurements right now! The main trick is respecting the stock lines and extending the horizontal lines of the headlights metric dimensions in centimeters
The idea was to reuse most of the cut parts. The cut decklid part angled and moved forward about 2 inches: Filled the gap with a few layers of fiberglass and bondo later:
Yes, efficient venting and a clear view is the main challenge I guess... So I are you going to build yours?
Keep up the good work. Love this thread.
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