wow, 30 second install on the dr side axle lol pass side, a little fun. since I was doing all the dirty work, my helper was the camera man, the rag man, the go to guy.
heres me fooling with the axles... wtf I look drunk in the 2nd pic?
heres the parts all lined up ready to be put together.
One error. The passenger side inner tripot must be used on the passenger side CV axle. The driver side only fits the drivers side of the transmision.
One error. The passenger side inner tripot must be used on the passenger side CV axle. The driver side only fits the drivers side of the transmision.
maybe thats why my axle is too long for the PS, I need to use the PS CV axle insted of the Dr Side GTP axle? for the dr side axle im using just the fiero auto axle.
I think you might be a bit mistaken, as you have a passenger side tripot in the picture, and you say that everything is also driver side. The axle should be mostly driver side, with the exception of the tripot.
My thought is you used a passenger side axle, and its too long, but I have not attempted trying to put together one of these on my passenger side, I ended up using a fiero driver side/jbody axle.
Alot of stuff done today, pictures dont do it justice the amount of work was put into it today, heres a couple pics though that show some of the hookups
[This message has been edited by Back On Holiday (edited 03-20-2009).]
Looks good and I love the look of the PRJ fuel rails in blue and the VC you went with. You will love the car once it is on the road and going and all the work will be worth it.
Can you comment any more on the correct setup for the passenger side axle, I have the GTP inner (trans side) pods and the fiero stock auto axles, nothing else, I'm trying to figure out if I can just buy one more axle to make what i need....
Looks good and I love the look of the PRJ fuel rails in blue and the VC you went with. You will love the car once it is on the road and going and all the work will be worth it.
thank you whats VC? lol
quote
Originally posted by multmigs:
Can you comment any more on the correct setup for the passenger side axle, I have the GTP inner (trans side) pods and the fiero stock auto axles, nothing else, I'm trying to figure out if I can just buy one more axle to make what i need....
not sure myself, goal #1 is to get the car started and then i'll work on the axle and some other problems. my AC hose (rubber) broke off at the crimp when installing it, i'm assuming it got too hot at the weld shop and only needed me to tug it to come loose.
I also learned a new thing, I went to plug in the auto trans line onto the shifter on top of the trans and it was too short? I stopped and thought, this springy part must be adjustible... popped up the access cover and wow adjustible i'm so psyched, this part is the most fun the installation and getting things together, only need to buy a few little things I didnt think of like the accelerator retainer for the N* TB, right now a tie-wrap is slipped into the hole, a few of my extended wiring parts are slightly too long, a few I was able to make brackets to compinsate, and also helped get further away from the exhaust (front underneath by gas tank) but I did make the crank/cam wiring section about 2 foot too long for some reason LOL right now its just temp tie wraped underneath as its a back burner thing that will get done before driving it around but after i'm finished the serious stuff.
rofl....vc=valve covers...errr you need a break..lol...tim
LOL we're leaving for the beach tomorrow morning (and I have very nosy neighbors for those thinking about breaking in and taking my car while im gone!)
btw someone asked for a list of my exhaust parts here they are:
Part Number QTY SUM-640025 1 Exhaust Tubing, Straight, 2 1/ 2 in. Diameter, 4 ft. Length, 16-Gauge, Aluminized, Steel SUM-640030 1 Exhaust Tubing, Straight, 3 in. Diameter, 4 ft. Length, 16-Gauge, Aluminized, Steel, Each BIG-50363FLT 1 FlowTech Afterburner Mufflers Muffler, Afterburner, 3 in. Inlet/ Dual 2 1/ 2 in. Outlet, Aluminized Steel, Chevy/ Pontiac *HED-12083 1 Hedman 120 Degree Mandrel Bends Exhaust Tubing, 120 Degree, Mandrel Bend, 3 in. Diameter, 6 in. Radius, 18-Gauge, Steel HOK-12280HKR 3 Hooker Mandrel Bend Tubing Exhaust Tubing, 180 Degree, Mandrel U-Bend, 3 in. Diameter, 6 in. Radius, 18-Gauge *PSM-82-4218 1 Pacesetter Flex Joint Pipes Flex Joints, Stainless Steel, Weld-On, 3 in. Inlet/ Outlet, Each SUM-622004 2 Summit Exhaust Tubing Mandrel Bends Exhaust Tubing, 180 Degree, Mandrel Bend, 3 in. Diameter, 4 1/ 2 in. Radius, 16-Gauge WLK-41095 1 Dynomax Tail Spouts Exhaust Tip, 3 in. Inlet, 3 in. Outlet, 12 in. Length, Aluminized Steel, Each WLK-41961 2 Dynomax Universal Exhaust Connectors and Reducers Exhaust Pipe Reducer, 2.5 in. Inside Diameter to 2.25 in. Inside Diameter., 4.5 in. Long HOK-12260HKR 2 Hooker Mandrel Bend Tubing Exhaust Tubing, 180 Degree, Mandrel U-Bend, 2 1/ 4 in. Diameter, 6 in. Radius, 18-Gauge, Steel
* = didnt use I think I used the sum-622004 for both my bends, been awhile honestly. hope this list helps
can you explain at all what you are using for the tensioner on the low mount alt setup you have made there, looks like the stock GTP dogbone bracket is installed as it comes and then something is sitting on top of the left lower bolt that holds a tensioner (from what??) And What size belt did you use for this side? Looks GREAT otherwise
can you explain at all what you are using for the tensioner on the low mount alt setup you have made there, looks like the stock GTP dogbone bracket is installed as it comes and then something is sitting on top of the left lower bolt that holds a tensioner (from what??) And What size belt did you use for this side? Looks GREAT otherwise
your not really that far away if you want to come down this way this weekend and look for yourself, ill be working on the car, cept sat after 2pm sunday im free all day.
update: since sat night I've been strugling with some flu like symtoms (except the craps and vomiting) today I managed to drag my a$$ out of the house and do something constructive until the dizzyness got too much.
heres a back view of my tensioner
progress pic, dont know if this will work and if it does how well it will do, but I have a intake Y, one filter pulling air in from the engine compartment, and another from the side scoop side, I also had to re-route the coolant line using a cut piece of 84-87 SS coolant tubing, it doesnt look good right now but eventually it will get cleaned
[This message has been edited by Back On Holiday (edited 03-20-2009).]
AM I missing something? why would you ever want to put that second air cleaner inside the engine compartment and suck super hot air from next to the exhaust into the intake????
Thanks for the pics of the tensioner, i guess that is a piece of flat steel that its bolted to which is then bolted to the cylinder head?
AM I missing something? why would you ever want to put that second air cleaner inside the engine compartment and suck super hot air from next to the exhaust into the intake????
Thanks for the pics of the tensioner, i guess that is a piece of flat steel that its bolted to which is then bolted to the cylinder head?
an experiment, I switched it back to 1, didnt like it myself. felt like crap today but felt somewhat better around 3:30pm today (well, had to get out of the damn house) went into the garage and got some stuff done. (dont mind me im out of it now) I think I need good spark plug wires, and think the plugs were hand tight but dont know for sure why the "Hot" red wire smoked at the end of the last video, wish I could celebrate right now but wasted.
Well first of all, you DO NOT HAVE A CARB, so pumping pedals and such will not do anything but eliminate any chance of the car starting, in any situation. The proper start procedure for any efi car is no pedal to start, and full wide open to clear flood conditions, nothing in between. The flood clear usually results in a start and it revs real high, and usually stalls, then you get to figure out what went wrong. I usually will do flood clears untill it doesnt try to fire, which means your all dried up, then you can go and try a normal NO PEDAL start. You do not have a carb, unless you lied in the rest of your thread. The pumping was quite hard to keep from laughing at in the last video, you got quite a work out making your pcm cry and freak out seeing the tps go all over the place. It was probley jumping between clear flood and 40% throttle aka injectors near full on vs full off randomly, so it really had no chance of starting at all.
The fact that it is firing a bit leads me to think you have seriously fueling problems, or you have 1-2 wires/injectors hooked up total. It would be evident quickly if you have a too much fuel problem, as it would be leaking out the open exhaust.
I feel your pain as I'm recovering from working on the MF wire harness yesterday, I can see how easy it would be to confuse just 2 wires and this whole thing doesn't work then... speaking of which I can't find any reference to what the large amount of pink wires, thats the ones from the stock GTP harness that feed the injectors etc, need to be connected to?
Good luck and he's totally correct above about the pedal, don't touch it you are just adding confusion to the what the PCM is looking at....
I feel your pain as I'm recovering from working on the MF wire harness yesterday, I can see how easy it would be to confuse just 2 wires and this whole thing doesn't work then... speaking of which I can't find any reference to what the large amount of pink wires, thats the ones from the stock GTP harness that feed the injectors etc, need to be connected to?
Good luck and he's totally correct above about the pedal, don't touch it you are just adding confusion to the what the PCM is looking at....
I connected all of my engine power to the 2 injector feed wires coming out of the c203. I tried to distribute the load as much as I could to keep any one wires load down. Lucky for us the wiring was overdesigned in the fiero, so you can run serious power through the stock "5 amp" injector feeds.
I love reading these well documented swap threads. It shows a level of organization I wish I had. But after reading this I think I've determined what the problem is. BLAME THE HELPER !!!! I mean, what is he like 6 or something. How much hands on experience could he have? My son was at least 8 before he could read a schematic and trace and solder wires. He's 12 now and is out in the garage welding up a new exhaust right now. Seriously man, I know you love him and all but he has to go. It's gonna be tough but you gotta' fire him. Sure, he may cry a little at first but hey, that's what makes you stronger on the inside. You may have to start from scratch for a replacement too. Talk to the wife. Buy a nice bottle of wine and see what she's up to tonight. Wink,wink. One thing about working on your own car that makes it really worthwhile is being able to say I did it myself. Another thing is when your son, or daughter, WANTS to come out to the garage and help you out. To spend time with your family any way you can is precious. My screen name is me working on the car, it's my time. My son is helping so much now I may have to change it to "ourtime". Wish I could help you with the swap. Did mine a couple of years ago. Got it running right away. Very lucky. With all of the wiring modifications you made I can't help but think it's a wiring thing. That means tracing wires. Fun,fun,fun. Good luck to you. You're almost there.!!
anyway, tonight I replaced all the plugs with autolite 103's with .060 gap, got all good plug wires connected, and still doesnt want to turn over. I have about 4 gallons of gas in the tank total, and the rear is sitting somewhat in the air, maybe not enuf gas? it smells like I'm getting gas though.
Unless you mounted your fuel pump halfway in the tank, 4 gallons is well more than enough to run the car for 100 miles or so, so thats for sure not the problem.
The next bet is going to be spark, because it really sounded like you were just running on 2-4 cylinders in the video. Or maybe one bank of injectors is not getting power, just time to do basic troubleshooting steps to find things out.
EDIT
After reviewing your thread, I noticed you have a scanner, and you also have a northstar TB. Whoever did your tuning might of well forgot about the maf, and that could possibly be screwing with things so I would just unplog that for now. Hook the scanner up, turn on the key, and see if all your sensors are reading nominally.
[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 07-26-2007).]
This weekend i'm going to pull some wiring through a hole in the firewall, I mentioned to FieroFlyer that at one point in the wiring harnass I was pulling 25v through the line with my voltmeter, so i'm assuming a wrongly connected wire that I mistook for a similar color. I am going to try and use a diff set of coils to test also before I start ripping into things, as for the scanner the batterys in the palm died so I have to re-load the software on it.
wow, too many things to mention like, I cut a hole in the firewall and checked alot.... i mean alot of wire and nothing wrong. checked voltage, 11.4...... I had AC on when I measured the other day (25v) duh! went over tons of possible mistakes, checked every ground, swapped stuff in and out. but, in the end I finally figured out the problem... wtf kinda dumba$$ I was...... cyl's go like this:
front /\ 531 642 Rear \/
I was putting them 321 654
DUH!!!!!!!!!! SIMPLE MISTAKE OMFG IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Unless you mounted your fuel pump halfway in the tank, 4 gallons is well more than enough to run the car for 100 miles or so, so thats for sure not the problem.
The next bet is going to be spark, because it really sounded like you were just running on 2-4 cylinders in the video.
I hate to say I told you so.... lol kidding, congrats! My rule is check simple stuff first, then you start second guessing your variables. It really doesn't take much to get a 3800 to at least start and at least pretend to idle.
Wish I had shot a video like that! LOL That was awesome... Had mine running for the first time with the exhaust welded on yesterday, and it sounds like a seriously raped banshee.. I love these things! I just read the whole build thread, but don't remember seeing any info on the intake tube - well, saw it was a 60* bend, but any info on where it's from? Looks like a great fit. One of the last things I have to do, right now it's dryer duct. LOL Kind of odd, but I saw someone's Poly suspension thread a few minutes ago, where you had a picture of the Poly "ring" sitting on your rear clip and I could have *swore* that was my old SC car! I had to do a search to prove myself wrong! (which is why I just found / read the whole build thread..) The color in that pic was exactly the same as my car, down to the stock blue color underneath where the GT trunk gasket was... Even the trunk cutout looked exactly the same. Only thing different was the blue wiring harness. I also saw the rear tie rod and thought "what the hell happened to that axle?! It's tiny!!". LOL Too many gas and welding fumes.... Awesome job man!!
------------------ Bob Williams Working on the next 3800 swap, it works now!!!
Wish I had shot a video like that! LOL That was awesome... Had mine running for the first time with the exhaust welded on yesterday, and it sounds like a seriously raped banshee.. I love these things! I just read the whole build thread, but don't remember seeing any info on the intake tube - well, saw it was a 60* bend, but any info on where it's from? Looks like a great fit. One of the last things I have to do, right now it's dryer duct. LOL Kind of odd, but I saw someone's Poly suspension thread a few minutes ago, where you had a picture of the Poly "ring" sitting on your rear clip and I could have *swore* that was my old SC car! I had to do a search to prove myself wrong! (which is why I just found / read the whole build thread..) The color in that pic was exactly the same as my car, down to the stock blue color underneath where the GT trunk gasket was... Even the trunk cutout looked exactly the same. Only thing different was the blue wiring harness. I also saw the rear tie rod and thought "what the hell happened to that axle?! It's tiny!!". LOL Too many gas and welding fumes.... Awesome job man!!
Dang! I'd found those guys before looking for a billet oil dipstick... Want to mount it somewhere else besides the impossible-to-reach area under the window... Didn't see the bent tubes though! Was that a 4" 60* bend in your install then? Any plan to cut down the transmission dipstick tube? That thing's like a sword sheath! I think I took a good 6" off mine on the last Auto swap, just used a tube cutter then cut off the same length off the top of the stick + re-pinned it... Thanks for the info!!! Now if only I had a transporter beam or something to clone your whole car... I've got a thing for the blue ones I guess...
Get your scanner out, you are missfiring, or running a very agressive untuned cam.......
there is alot of idle problems, it seems to catch itself alot, typical symptom of bad spark. You will notice a "falls on face" at like 4k rpms the first time you take it out I'd imagine.
Get your scanner out, you are missfiring, or running a very agressive untuned cam.......
there is alot of idle problems, it seems to catch itself alot, typical symptom of bad spark. You will notice a "falls on face" at like 4k rpms the first time you take it out I'd imagine.
I need to buy a new cable for the scanner, I have the spark plugs gapped to .060, there is some intake leak right now (couplings on the intake tube arent tightened down)
as for todays projects, first was to clean the garage and pack away extra stuff that was not needed, and then onto the dreaded p/s axle. I disassembled the axle I had made, and disassembled the other axle I had, P/S GTP or DR/S GTP axles I lost track, but the one I had made up previous was aprox 1 inch longer, causing problems with fit, so I used the other axle and wow its a little compressed but it works!
heres a pic of finished axle/strut assembly:
[This message has been edited by Back On Holiday (edited 03-20-2009).]
Late start today as I was beat from working this weeks 90-100 degree 100% humidity summer heatwave ~ but my son and I got some stuff done:
connecting the strut tower:
Trunk monkey tightening down the blockoff plate where the rear blower used to sit:
Trunk floor totally sealed up now, also holes from the blower sealed up with blockoff plates, hole for the blower (rubber plug stopper electrical) and you can see the blockoff plate the trunk monkey was doing in the last trunk pic:
and a pic of the car with my sweat rag:
[This message has been edited by Back On Holiday (edited 03-20-2009).]
awesome. looks like a familiar smile 
