So far so good,you say you do this as hobby,but you should know that your work on fiberglass is amazing.
Most people will just plaster over something to get something in shape then apply fiberglass and plaster it with body filler,but instead of that you took a clean piece of fiberglass out of a mold that you made,and not only that,but you also used Gelcoat over Body Filler.
Your fiberglass parts are made with the very professional way,they are well shaped,smooth,and they remain light,so good that i'm afraid to compete with you. :P
My first impressions project-wise are that the vents are fitting Seamlessly but they are a little too classic for my likes. :P
I can't wait to see the rest of the dash and Central Console getting skinned.
Anyways.
I hope you will get your car on the road soon,and i hope i will see it in person!
I read about your Economic Crisis Mood and i hope it wont change any of your plans,most of the cars like Fiero are ending up rotting in a Garage without license plates,such great cars "killed" due to the unfair austere tax system based on Engine Displacement which are leaving 40k 1.8 Mercedes with less than half taxes compared to the Fiero because the displacement is less.
Now you have to pay 880 Euros per year and about 500 on Insurance,i hope this wont detach you from the Pontiac,if you come to this,at least try to lower the Displacement on the Registration paper to 1.8.
I've been watching this thread from the beginning. I always get frustrated with how far apart the updates are. but every time you finish something, my god is it good. your fiberglass work is amazing, your dash ideas are fantastic. i love the center console, the actuating screen, the buttons by the shifter. and the fan to keep the controls cool, genius! and you made it look easy. and let me just say....
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Originally posted by Chris_86GT:
...That is Beautiful. i love the nostalgia of the original dash. probably wont change mine. but yours looks fantastic. keep it up my Greek friend.
Thank you all for your kind words, I wish I had the time to move on and finish it. I don't want to rush things just to finish and I thing its better this way because I always have a good idea at the end. I still have some aces up my sleeve and when all done I thing it will be stunning.
I still have the original dash and I can put it back any time I want. My plans for the car are to make it historic and maybe in a few years my interior and exterior mods will be for sale.
It is a three stages switch (up - neutral - down). It is connected with a 3 sec timer, which activates pressing the up down buttons. It has to be up to go up, when it’s up and press the down button it doesn’t do anything. I would love this to be fully automated; maybe someone who knows electronic circuits can help me with this. Any ideas are welcome.
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Originally posted by 07Hoffmannd:
what are you pressing in the ashtray spot? before you're pushing the up/down for the screen?
It is a three stages switch (up - neutral - down). It is connected with a 3 sec timer, which activates pressing the up down buttons. It has to be up to go up, when it’s up and press the down button it doesn’t do anything. I would love this to be fully automated; maybe someone who knows electronic circuits can help me with this. Any ideas are welcome.
wire like this and use timer to send 3 sec neg signal one wire is up one wire would be down, then you should be able to eliminate the switches in the ash trey.
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87 GT series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft) (series II swap in progress) 85GT Northstar 86GT 3800 n/a
I will try it this weekend. Please verify that the pic below have the correct setup. Have both signals (for the up-down) to be negative?
If you know an alternative for the 3 sec timer please post the information. My timer is a little bit bulky because is for heavy duty applications (has a relay on it).
Instead of the typical relays you could use 2 DEI 528t timed relays , they have built in timer and carry 15 amp loads , so they would be fine for what you need... they run around $12 ea online..
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87 GT series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft) (series II swap in progress) 85GT Northstar 86GT 3800 n/a
Did it and worked fine. I don’t know if it’s possible to illuminate the buttons when you press them down. You can see at my video above how they worked before. I know I can’t reverse the circuit because I will have a sort (having both “30” positive current). Can this be done? I liked it when were they illuminated.
Did it and worked fine. I don’t know if it’s possible to illuminate the buttons when you press them down. You can see at my video above how they worked before. I know I can’t reverse the circuit because I will have a sort (having both “30” positive current). Can this be done? I liked it when were they illuminated.
Thank you.
You want the buttons to light up only when pressed? you would make a jumper from pin 30 to the + pin on the led in the button, then ground the other side of the led. then which ever relay you trigger would send 12v to actuator and to button light for 3 sec. Not real sure what you mean by you would have a short... but then again I am not sure how your buttons light up but should be pretty simple to make them light up when button is pushed.... If the fact that you using a reversal rest at ground , you can make it a reversal rest at + , depending on what your switches need , or just change pins 85 and 86 in middle of diagram to - and use a + pulse to activate. Any questions feel free to pm me..
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87 GT series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft) (series II swap in progress) 85GT Northstar 86GT 3800 n/a
[This message has been edited by jb1 (edited 05-19-2013).]
You want the buttons to light up only when pressed? you would make a jumper from pin 30 to the + pin on the led in the button, then ground the other side of the led. then which ever relay you trigger would send 12v to actuator and to button light for 3 sec. Not real sure what you mean by you would have a short... but then again I am not sure how your buttons light up but should be pretty simple to make them light up when button is pushed.... If the fact that you using a reversal rest at ground , you can make it a reversal rest at + , depending on what your switches need , or just change pins 85 and 86 in middle of diagram to - and use a + pulse to activate. Any questions feel free to pm me..
Thank you for you replay, I am posting here so the information can be available to any member finds it useful.
You are right; I was stuck that pin 30 had ground, but when you trigger the relay they change and positive is what I wanted. Two negatives won’t harm the led.
And one final question for the lift mechanism. I had with the previous setup when the screen goes down a switch that was cutting the power from the motor when at the bottom position. Can I do the same with this setup? Cutting one cable with a switch it will not leave a circuit to go up.
For the sort I was referring to the cables going to the motor (30 connector), having both positive doesn’t this create a short to the motor?
I had an issue with the monitor going down 2-3mm when hitting on bumps. I decided to use magnets to help release some tense from this low torque CD ROM motors. After few tries found the correct position and they tuned out working very well. Those little magnets that I find inside an old CD ROM are very strong.
Put a spring to speed down when going down and help when going up. Also the switch at the left (red button) to cut of the power to motor when bottomed out.
No buttons pushed the motor sees ground , the relay rests on pin 87a Btw are you not using limit switches to shut off when reaching fully open and fully closed? And what limit switches 2 wire or 3 wire? If 3 wire , when 1 post is disconnected it connects to the other post pin 30 to 87 and 87a, If it has only 2 post you make a jumper bypassing the switch and use a diode per switch to limit current flow. ------------------
87 GT series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft) (series II swap in progress) 85GT Northstar 86GT 3800 n/a
[This message has been edited by jb1 (edited 05-21-2013).]
No buttons pushed the motor sees ground , the relay rests on pin 87a Btw are you not using limit switches to shut off when reaching fully open and fully closed? And what limit switches 2 wire or 3 wire? If 3 wire , when 1 post is disconnected it connects to the other post pin 30 to 87 and 87a, If it has only 2 post you make a jumper bypassing the switch and use a diode per switch to limit current flow.
I have a limit switch only at fully closed. To fine tune when full open is very difficult that’s one reason why I have the 3 sec circuit. I was thinking to cut the positive direct from the relay, I haven’t looked at the schematics yet, have to see if it will work but I am very positive it will. I will post the final setup when ready.
Thank you again for your time
EDIT to add that I am using 2 wire limit switch.
AND after studding your diagram I just need to put a Diode to the limit switch. This will solve the problem (last night I answer in a hurry without analyzing to understand your diagram…)
[This message has been edited by Chris_86GT (edited 05-22-2013).]
The ash tray door was opening on corners so I put a small magnet to keep it in place. The magnet and the metal tab on the door they don’t touch each other; there is a gap about 1mm. Also put a LED and a small switch.
This is such an awesome dash, I would love to have one like that with a carbon fiber wrapped center and red illumination. You didn't make a mold by any chance did you?
This is such an awesome dash, I would love to have one like that with a carbon fiber wrapped center and red illumination. You didn't make a mold by any chance did you?
I have a mold but I don’t think it will work with carbon fiber well. It requires some work after releasing the part. In the future I had in mind to make a carbon fiber center console, but it won’t be soon. Still want to make the doors and finish the interior upholstery… Maybe if I make a proper mold I will make few more… but not in my plans.
great build! This was one of the builds I came across that inspired me to do a waterfall console in my car. Although I used the stock dash. Mine didnt come out quite as nice but I am real happy with having a tablet in the car now (well at least when I get it working again!)
great build! This was one of the builds I came across that inspired me to do a waterfall console in my car. Although I used the stock dash. Mine didnt come out quite as nice but I am real happy with having a tablet in the car now (well at least when I get it working again!)
Post a pic if you like. I would like to see how it came out.
-------------Edit------------- I just followed the link to your build; it blended nicely with the stock dash. Nice job!
[This message has been edited by Chris_86GT (edited 08-27-2013).]
Post a pic if you like. I would like to see how it came out.
-------------Edit------------- I just followed the link to your build; it blended nicely with the stock dash. Nice job!
Thanks! I am happy with it. I hope to get it finished up soon. However the stock back part of the console will have to stay as is for a while until I get more time to build that half of it. I am just going to enjoy having an updated interior for a while before I tackle anything else!
Finally I had some fun making new things for the car
Last weekends I started the completion of the side scoops. First I make them out of cardboard. Then cut the forms to a flat sheet of fibreglass I made (single layer 400-450 grams cloth). Spot glue them together with hot glue for the final adjustments.
And the rocker panel for. I cover the cardboard with tape, fibreglass doesn’t stick to it and it’s easy to release. Of course you don’t have a perfect finish, but for my case worked fine and I don’t mind the extra time I have to spend to fix all the blemishes.
First I make the round end. Then use my “mold” to take the final shape.
Thank you all! And the finished setup from inside... I can direct the aluminum pipes either to the brakes or the motor. For now the driver side directs air to the ignition module and the other side to the alternator.
Wow, nice build... too bad almost all the photo's in the middle of the build are just broken links to where images used to be I am doping a custom interior, and wold loved to have seen some of your progress photo's along the way.
A lot of people gripe and complain about PFF Image poster. I see all the time, "I use Photobucket", "I use Imageshack"... and years, if not months down the road red X's and broken iumages are showing up everywhere .....At least with PFF image poster, this never happens. I have over a hundred photos in my build thread I started 4 years ago, and not one single broken image. Sure, it can be a pin, but in the end it's worth it.
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Originally posted by Chris_86GT:
Some pics of the almost finished exterior panels.
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Originally posted by Chris_86GT:
The only thing left for the ECM cover is to find an open/close mechanism for the door. Maybe I will copy the mechanism from the original.
The fitment isn’t perfect because is just sitting there. When I put the screws it will be ok.
This was sent to the upholstery shop as a guinea pig and the results were disappointing. I wonder what the quality of the job you are getting is; does anyone have pics from his interior so I can see the work done on the stitching?
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Originally posted by Chris_86GT:
With the primer on it starts to show gooood....
[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 08-13-2014).]
I am doping a custom interior, and wold loved to have seen some of your progress photo's along the way.
