How much power will the turbo add to the 2.8? Is it more bang for the buck than a 3800sc?
I currently have a 3800SC... ditching the supercharger and going 3800 turbo... I think overall the 3800SC is the best bang for your buck engine. I just want a new project and to learn more about turbos, so I'll be doing the conversion. Should have around 400hp as a ballpark figure. Only time will tell.
Which spoiler? The active aero one did not cover the original holes for the fiero wing. It was just an experimental piece so we did not fill in the holes.
The IMSA wing I have on there now doesn't cover the holes either. I had them filled in when I had the decklid/wing painted.
Which spoiler? The active aero one did not cover the original holes for the fiero wing. It was just an experimental piece so we did not fill in the holes.
The IMSA wing I have on there now doesn't cover the holes either. I had them filled in when I had the decklid/wing painted.
How is that IMSA wing attached to the car? Are all the screws hidden under the panels?
Yeah the IMSA wing has 3-4 screws whose heads were encased in the fiberglass. Holes were drilled in the decklid and the threads go through and are secured with nuts on the decklid underside.
In other news, bought some 60# injectors and they're on the way... bought a BOV as well that just arrived:
Its all coming together nicely... I need some other small odds and ends, plus there will be all of the custom fabrication of the exhaust. Still need to learn to tune too!
if it does not have a lot of bearing slop and looks like it is not blowing oil out the seals , there is no reason to rebuild a turbo .see how it works first , then decide .
The list of things to buy is dwindling.... I also heard that the stock L67 MAF might not work that well with a turbo set up... hmm
Also, does anybody know how many psi the stock l67 MAP sensor is good up until?
I use a stock 99' GTP MAF and ZZP's fixed frequency mini AFC. Works great, not sure on 'how many PSI' the stock MAF can handle but I have had my turbo 3800 up to 18psi without issue.
Originally posted by Tony Kania: http://www.caranddriver.com...c-first_drive_review So thought of your car when I read this on the pot this morning. Especially the part about the wing/air brake system. Tony
I think the active aero brake on the McLaren looks so cool. Your active wing adds another dimension.
DoubleC4, bump for news on your active aero setup.
[This message has been edited by Austrian Import (edited 12-22-2011).]
The active aero set up is currently off the car. It was a fun project and hopefully I'll get to tinker with it again soon. Things just got busy with jobs and moving and all of that. Plus its winter here so the car is in storage.
Maybe sometime next season I'll put it on the car again and try a few more things out!
Unfortunately I don't have a part number or application for the diffuser. However, it was made by "Shine Auto" and they have a website. I searched through it but couldn't find the diffuser that I have. I don't know if its discontinued? As far as I know it was "universal"
You could contact them, I'm sure they have some still around. If not, and you really, really do like it, I can contact the place I bought it from. They probably still have some? You'd just have to have it shipped from Canada.
I hope the process works out. Hopefully I can put together a product thats up to your quality of work! I want people to be happy with the fit and finish.
Excited to have them in my possession now. They look great and will only require minimal work to have them ready for vacuum forming. I will need to coat them in some kind of epoxy wood hardener and do some light sanding. I have a test piece that I'm going to use.
It was kind of funny when I got the box that he put them in. The box was just some random thing he had in his garage that originally held a home light fixture. The product was called "Flush Mount Fixture" .... strange coincidence!
In the summer I'll be able to get some nice high-def driving video!
I also finalized my choice for sealing the MDF molds... so I should be working on them this week. See how it turns out! I really don't want to ruin them..
Seemed like a nice, easy unit to use. Only complaint is that the working area is very small. My mould just BARELY fit! Very lucky it did just clear, however.
Here are some PETG sheets along with one of the moulds. Blue protective plastic is removed during the process.
Here are some "learning experience" sheets below. It takes some trial and error to dial in the right heating time and how hot to get the plastic before forming. Some of these reject lenses were used for the "hammer" test to also explore the effect of over heating on the impact resistance of the material. I will post a hammer test video tomorrow
And here are some lenses that went well:
I will get a few more pictures with them popped out of the moulds.
Now here is the slight set back:
During the trial and error process, we tried something that didn't work out so well. Long story short, we were not aware that we were heating up the mould quite a bit. We ended up burning the mould and it required some last minute (and very crude) rework. A "good" lens was still pulled from this mould after it was reworked but it wouldn't meet my expectations for quality to sell it to anyone. So, I will either have to rework the mould more, or have a new one cut. At the very least, the "good" lens I got from it will be used for test fitting etc. since it is dimensionally accurate. The finish is just a little bumpy. Nothing that can't be eventually fixed.
In the end, we got the process dialed in perfect. I will post more pictures in a little while and trim the excess material from the lenses this weekend. So far so good!
(Also, when I refer to "we" in these posts, I had some friends with me who wanted lend a hand. Always helps to have a second and third set of hands and some extra brains for problem solving!)
Just a little excited so I pulled out some mock up card board buckets and lights. Threw the lens on top (untrimmed) just to give an idea of how things are shaping up:
And one with a shroud on one of the lights:
Its tough to see the shape of the lens when its clear with no paint. I put them over a black stove so you might be able to see it better:
Check out the "hammer test" video for these lenses I just put up on youtube:
I was very happy with my material selection. As you can see, a very hard blow with a hammer won't even crack these lenses. Keep in mind that was a "failed" lens that was overheated as well. Overheating this plastic will decrease impact resistance. So the actual lenses that were successful would be even stronger. There was also barely even a scuff in the lens from the hammer. I can try and take some pictures of the mark it left. Its hardly noticable so I'm not sure the camera will capture it.
I wish I got a video of my friend stomping on one of these lenses. He was able to pop one "inside out" and then it actually popped right back into place. We were able to eventually crack one with repeated blows with a hammer. We came to the conclusion that unless you drive into a hail storm of hammers, then road debris and rocks should never crack one of these.
Will the heat of the bulbs have any affect to the material properties?
I don't think they will heat the lens enough to change its properties, damage, or soften it. While I was doing some research on materials, I found a Corvette guy who sells a very similar kit and he uses the same material for his lenses. Also keep in mind that these lenses are 1/8" thick. Not exactly paper thin so they should be able to withstand heat from the headlights no problem. I'm going to test them out pretty thoroughly before I sell any as well.
Hey if you want a HID bulb/projetor lens as well as the high beam bulb and lens out of a 2006 SRX lmk. I have them at work and are free if it helps. Will we see you at the Moose on Sunday?
Pete
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88 3800 turbo thanks to AkursedX and Sinister Performance