Yes. The boot and bezels are on and the rt front rotor is off the car, ready for chroming. HRE wheels were shipped to HRE for super polishing, painting and backside correction. Part of the central hub was, "Buggered up"---so thats being addressed.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-09-2007).]
Originally posted by madcurl: Yes. The boot and bezels are on and the rt front rotor is off the car, ready for chroming. HRE wheels were shipped to HRE for super polishing, painting and backside correction. Part of the central hub was, "Buggered up"---so thats being addressed.
Please explain the back space correction. I'm understanding you are re adjusting the offset to the fender. If this is the case I thought you built the widebody to the wheel width?
Please explain the back space correction. I'm understanding you are re adjusting the offset to the fender. If this is the case I thought you built the widebody to the wheel width?
This set of HRE rims were not built by Curly or for one of his cars, he purchased them from someone as a spare set of HRE's and is now tweaking them to fit #15. A spare set of HRE's ya gota love it!!!
Please explain the back space correction. I'm understanding you are re adjusting the offset to the fender. If this is the case I thought you built the widebody to the wheel width?
Yes. As Troy mentioned, this set of HRE's are spares. This set was on Ebay back several years ago and where made to fit a Celica 5x100 bolt pattern. So why the needed adjustments? The bolt pattern is correct but it's the hub or the center that is "buggered-up." Apparently someone wanted them to fit and they bored-out some portion of the hub so that the wheel would fit "flush" on the rotor.
I had informed HRE (Vince) about my concerns and he stated, "We can correct the problem and any other adjustment if needed." Vince went into the "Archives" and found my various off-sets and compared the differences. We found that the Ebay rims are 32mm off-set based upon the old "log's" they have on file and the reference number stamped on the backside of every rim that HRE makes.
Vince will give me a call on Monday regarding the status which should take about 1-2 weeks for correction. Cost? $100 buck for labor, $100 buck for stripping of old silver center piece and repainting the 3rd center piece "High Gloss Black," & $100 buck for "High Polishing the 2nd piece (the ugly back-side) with a clear coat------totalling $300 x 2 = $600 buckeroos!
The 3rd piece polishing & clear coat ($200) is for the needed "pop." HRE suggested polishing vs. chroming due to the weight factor. The 1st piece (2" lip) was in pretty good condition with very minor scratches and a quick polish will fix those issues. As you perhaps know, the HRE (R) series rims weigh more than the old style due to it's increased lenght of the 5-star arms to achive the "Flat" surface. Whereas #011 and #020 rims are lighter due to its rounded second lip which reduces the lenght of the 5-star arms.
[example of 3.5" lip---547 non (R) old style) #a - Black Center (w/chrome trim bolts)
547 (R) Series with extended 5-star arms and 2" flat lip:
Mind Playn' tricks on ya? I measured the two rims and found that the distance between the lip and where the extended arms are the same dispite both rims being 1-inch difference in diameter. Visually both rims appear to be the same in size. I plan on mounting 245/35's for the fronts, the same size that the Ferrari uses.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-10-2007).]
#015 will sport 20x12.5 or 20x13 wrapped in 345/25/20's (Dubs) using a different off-set since there is more clearance on a 88 vs. 84-87 suspension. This may result in a over-all lip of 6". The 345's have been waiting in the wings for nearly 2-yrs for it's moment to "Pop" and to give the Arch Rival a "Ugly Ego" dualing.
Pipe dream conclusions of the 20x13 for #015's "Ugly Ego":
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-10-2007).]
#015 will sport 20x12.5 or 20x13 wrapped in 345/25/20's (Dubs) using a different off-set since there is more clearance on a 88 vs. 84-87 suspension. This may result in a over-all lip of 6".
As you can see from this pic, the backside is/was "buggered-up" and HRE is correction this using a CNC machine at "no cost." The center bore will be drilled to 2.252 (stock Fiero). However, the center or 3-piece is costing me $180 per wheel and not $100 bucks per wheel. It's nearly double the cost due to the stripping and repainting the center piece. On the other hand, the 547(R) rims normally cost between $1600-1800 so I save a few bucks.
quote
Originally posted by FierociousGT:
I'm understanding you are re adjusting the offset to the fender. If this is the case I thought you built the widebody to the wheel width?
It seems to be pretty close to lining up as the 19x9's?
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 06-13-2007).]
I just recieved a phone call from HRE and although the rims have different inners and outers....both applications are the same as for sticking away from the fender. He asked me if I wanted to change out the inner 6.5" to a 7" making it a 9" rim and I said thats alright. HRE did thrown in some stainless steal fasteners which are lighter vs. the chromed steal ones for free...I said go ahead. At 23 pounds the 547R needs to loose some weight. It should take 1-2 wks for completion.
23 Pounder:
#011's test fit....too wide.
Edit: for 15x5 weights
I don't know the actual Fiero rim weight, but I have some shop rollers here using a 205R/60/15, 15x7. Tire tire is somehow of a may-pop with little tread life so the weights may vary, hehe.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-12-2008).]
rethinking old original idea: not a true representation of me thinking, but you get the ideal.
Last Friday I recieved a call from Vince @ HRE...the blacked two inched lipped 547R beauties are finished! Vince was suprised when he viewed the rims prior to boxing them. He said, "I had to ask the polisher..was the inners chromed?" The Polisher guy said, "No. The inners are polsihed with a clear coat." Vince continued to inform me that the power coated centers are nicely coated with a high gloss shine, the outers are highly polished, and the (buggered-up) backside is now like "new" and you can't tell if the rim is or isn't new. The finished product should look similar to the pic above but, with a highly polished inners.
We are now working on a set of 20x12.5 using the same back spacing found on #011 chopper. The "key" is too allow for switching between both the Arch Rival and #015 vehicals w/o having to modify #020. 20x13 would no doubt be an issue in this case, however it isn't an issue using #015 since it's a 88.
I should have some pics in few days using the "Chrome Dome" hats using the C5 rotors. The results should be similar to #011 Ryan Chrome Domes. I even had my work cars' rotors... chrome-domed, hehe. Darn salty air here in the Bay Area causes rust to appear everwhere!!! #015 isn't out of the game yet and well soon sport some newer and radical ideas vs. the Arch Rival. Stay Tuned.
Oh yeah, ...
Due to the width of the widebody leading to impaired side view vison:
I got my eyes on a pair 430's!
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 07-15-2007).]
Thanks Tony for posting the pics. Last Thursday was a very busy day. Besides, the tire/rim arriving, I mounted the Dakata Digital tire gauge monitor system. I tested the "system" and it seemed to be working properly. On Friday, I headed down the PE Motoring to let Hector mount those puppies and while on my way down, I stopped at AC Plating to pick up the Chromed passenger side Corvette rotor. I decided to not ship the Modena 360 to Archie since it was "buggered-up", so I dropped it off at Trendzs for beautification. I handed the 360 mirror to Joe (owner) and told him "Don't misplace or loose it." Joe told me, "It should be ready on Tuesday" (I've heard this before so I'll be back in two weeks, hehe). Okay, back to the tire shop.
The chromed hat rotor needed resurfacing, which wasn't a problem, however I was worried about the rim's inner polished clear coated finish. PE Motoring recently installed a 7k tire mounting unit to handle painted rims and DUB rims; still I was holding my testicles while Hector and his help started mounting. Before the process, we had a walk through, going over all of the things needed.
Since the inners are painted; we couldn't use the three inner rollers used to hold the rim so we used the traditional mounting points that grip the outside of the inner lip. To prevent damage to the lip we used a plastic lip/sleeve for the mounting point to grip the inner lip. Besides worring about the finish, we still needed to be mindful of the Dakota's tire mounting guage...geezs! 15-minutes later... it was done w/o any issues. I don't smoke, but I think I needed one.
Later on at home, I finally mounted the rotors and rims. Just like #011's rotors...IMO it's a beautiful combination using the chrome hats as a backdrop vs. the rusty ole' ones. I sent Tony a few pics.
I don't even want to know how much those cost you... ok maybe I do a little.
The price was public knowledge on Ebay and nobody wanted them, so I bought them for $700 bucks +s/h $50. This set I purchased was on Ebay in 2002-3 for $1900 buckeroos. If you happen to find a set that is "buggered-up"...send them to HRE for beautification.
My front driver's side rotor wasn't completed at the chrome shop, however my other 245 Pzero tire arrived last Friday (Aug3rd). I decided to wait until the chrome shop complets the work before I have the tire/rim mounted. Before then I can unbolt the rear rotor and repeat the process; this prevents a mix-up. D1S is very picky with whats in the front, in back, or on either side.
It was a lazy (me) week; working around the house, dealing with contractors, and my gardener.
The left side Corvette 13" chromed rotor finally was completed last Friday, but I misplaced my digital camera slim card with the good pics. I still need to mount the 245 on the rim, shave the excess copper and chrome from the rotor, and lower the front end for a visual. Later, I can focus my attention on the rears.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 08-19-2007).]
I finally got around to picking up one of my 13" Corvette rotors from the chrome shop. Just like #011, I wasn't a happy camper while viewing those ugly rusted out hats. The salty air in the Bay Area can cause rust to appear in seconds!
The process begins with them masking off the surface area prior to plating. Next, I head straight to P.E. Motoring for skinning or resurfacing the rotor. I'm doing one rotor at a time since D1S is very specific to which rotor (front and rear, lt to rt) and brake goes where.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 01-02-2008).]
#11 your silver car #15 this car #20 the arch rival? then theres the redux? so you have 4 choppers? All your cars seem to have the same rims and I get confused easy haha
#11 your silver car #15 this car #20 the arch rival? then theres the redux? so you have 4 choppers? All your cars seem to have the same rims and I get confused easy haha
My personal preference is the 547s to which all wide bodies The Redux, #020, and #015 the 547s are enter changeable. Only #011’s 547s are truly meant for this vehicle only. The Redux is a bubble top (for now).
quote
Originally posted by fiero go fast:
Madcurl, what brake kit are you using or is that your own creation?
Matt
The brake system isn't my creation but is Design 1 Systems from Oklahoma. It's the same system that Troyboy is using on his chopper (#022).
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-19-2007).]
I picked up the F430 mirror from Trendzs. Trendzs did a very good job at fixing the upper end corner of the mirror and it looks like "new" @ $60 bucks. Now I'm waiting on Archie and the Crew to send me the mounting tri-piece. sorry, I forgot to take pics.
The 20x13 ordered and should arrive in 4-6 weeks just in time before old' Turkey day
38mm off-set, high polished clear coated 8"inners/ high polished 5" outer barrels, & .07 pad height (center piece). #020 is nice, but it's time to move too better projects.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-17-2007).]
Originally posted by madcurl: I picked up the F430 mirror from Trendzs. Trendzs did a very good job at fixing the upper end corner of the mirror and it looks like "new" @ $60 bucks. Now I'm waiting on Archie and the Crew to send me the mounting tri-piece. sorry, I forgot to take pics.
Curly are you going to mount the tri-piece yourself? Judging by the number of hours to install it's seems like a LOT of work (welding, etc)...
[This message has been edited by FierociousGT (edited 10-17-2007).]
Very nice but you might want to consider 15" brakes behind those wheels.
Nah, I'm sticking with the original game plan; the Corvette 13/13 ZO6 brake combo. With the 13" up front I'll be able to clear using the 19s. 15" rotors would kill my shop roller applications.
quote
Originally posted by FierociousGT:
Curly are you going to mount the tri-piece yourself? Judging by the number of hours to install it's seems like a LOT of work (welding, etc)...
I'll let Trendzs perform the task. Archie informed me that it was the plastic tri piece was hard to remove and was never intended to be replaced or removed. I'll pry on it until it comes loose and have them weld the piece onto the car.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-17-2007).]
Now I'm waiting on Archie and the Crew to send me the mounting tri-piece.
We have the triangle parts to mount the mirrors on but it's not a bolt on thing.
The brackets actually weld to the door frame but there's a lot more involved.
I show you what we are doing on Troy's car, it's virtually identical to what we did on your #20.
Here they are welded onto the door frame. The Mirror & the plastic triangle piece around the mirror will attach to this metal triangle pc.
This triangle is kinda hollowed out thru the center & rolled up on the outside edge to match the mounting surface of the mirror.
The original Fiero mirror mounting pad on the door frame has to be cut out......
A new pc. of metal welded in so the door panel will fit over this area. This new metal will have to be used because the old mirror mounting bolts also doubled as the mounting for the forward end of the dew wipe. So that this will not look incomplete when finished, we need to secure the front end of the dew wipe. We'll do that by installing 2 flat head allen cap screws from the outside & nuts on the inside to secure the dew wipe.
The door panel has to be cutout for the bottom edge of the mirror & the edge of the cut has to be filled in so that after being sanded will meet right up to the edge of the mirror so it'll look like it belongs there. The only mirror hole in the door panel will also have to be finished to a flat smooth blended finish to match the rest of the door.
Archie
[This message has been edited by Archie (edited 10-17-2007).]
Thanks Archie for the detailed instruction using the F430 & F360/Fiero mirrors application. I'll give you a call this week regarding the price and shipping.
One question. What happened to the rubber upper corner piece? Is this piece still useable?
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-18-2007).]
The 20x13 ordered and should arrive in 4-6 weeks just in time before old' Turkey day
38mm off-set, high polished clear coated 8"inners/ high polished 5" outer barrels, & .07 pad height (center piece). #020 is nice, but it's time to move too better projects.
The Blackened rear DUBS should arrive this week or right before Turkey day...now we're cookin'
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