Okay, okay. I give! We'll say he's assertive, but then in all honesty, as Matt's mom, I wouldn't have him any other way. He has traveled long & hard to get where he is, & I couldn't be any more proud of him. He has shown great maturity over the last couple of years & I look forward to seeing what his abilities will be in the future! Love ya, Bud!
I got several pictures here of both my Fiero and my dad's Fiero next to each other, it really shows the differences between a notchback and a fastback. Both are 3.4's, I have a 4-speed, and my dad has a Isuzu 5-speed. Took this one today, I tried to do a night shot of my interior/gauges, but my camera sucks, so all i got was a picture of my tail-lights with the parking lights on.
In other news, today I installed my new Pioneer rear 4X6 speakers with bass blockers. I now have all new speakers in my Fiero, it sounds great! Not a high end system by any means, but that wasn't my goal, I don't need 5 12" subs. My 5.25" sub sounds good to me.
I did find out that my speedo's trip OD doesn't work correctly. Don't know what happened to it.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 11-15-2010).]
I took the fiero up to a local shop to have them look at the coolant leak because they have a snake camera, and a lift. So I found out i'm dumping coolant AND leaking oil out of the timing cover. Also found out my nasty exhaust leak has nearly ate though one of my A/C lines, the rubber part. I mean though it completely, I bet it will start eating through the second line soon enough if i don't do anything about it.
I then checked the knock sensor voltage, and its only .4 volts. I reconnected it (before I started testing) and at times it runs and idles great, but then it goes into retarded timing and runs like total crap, and sets code 43.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 12-18-2010).]
Matt, how did you install your timing cover gasket?
I had the same problem. I put the cover on with just the gasket and when I poured coolant in it leaked right out. After I did RTV with the gasket. There are a pain to change with the engine in the car but not impossible.
Matt, how did you install your timing cover gasket?
I had the same problem. I put the cover on with just the gasket and when I poured coolant in it leaked right out. After I did RTV with the gasket. There are a pain to change with the engine in the car but not impossible.
Yea, I just used the plain gasket. Weird thing is, the first time the engine was in with the automatic it (as far as I know) didn't leak, or at least it didn't leak this bad. Oh well. I'm not going to deal with fixing it in the car, I'll fix it when I have the engine out of the car.
I got several pictures here of both my Fiero and my dad's Fiero next to each other, it really shows the differences between a notchback and a fastback.
Well actually, if you look close enough you can see in that picture my dad's fastback is higher off the ground due to the 15" wheels, and his lower ground effects are silver, and mine are black. You can also see his round belt trim, while mine is ribbed. So yea, big difference.
Nope. In fact today was the first time I started it for 2-3 weeks. I moved it up to make more room, but I think its done for the winter, I will most likely remove the battery and throw a cover on it soon, to wait out another winter, outside.
Well I have a update, but nothing directly to do with my Fiero. Today, I signed up for college classes with the community college to get my Associates degree in Computer Aided Machining! I start in January, so since I'll be piled with school work and it's very cold and snowy outside, There won't be much happening here for several months. Still, my goal is to get my car going in time to drive it to Carisle 2011. And depending if PK or Andy drive there Fiero's to Frazee, I just might do the same so we could caravan up there. Regardless, It won't be the "best" drive, because I have the 4-speed muncie.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 12-18-2010).]
I attempted to start my car today, but no luck, battery is empty, so I removed the battery for the winter. So its offical, its not moving for at least 4 months. Also, I forgot that I took this picture, but its a nice picture of how our driveway looks now. minus the several inches of snow/
Havent been here in a while but the cars look great guys. Mike's and mine are stored for the winter. Got my engine cradle put in that your dad sold me and it worked out great.
Next up is the struts, shocks, tie rod ends and alignment. Hopefully we can hook up sometime next year. \m/
After a lot of thinking and some serious discussion with someone of PFF who has experience and has "been there done that", I have decided too not use the LQ1 engine for my Fiero. It's what I want to do, and I think its a better choice to stop now, then finish it and be un-happy with it. I'm not doing this because I'm greedy, no way, I'm keeping my "Ford Blue" engine in my Fiero and fixing it up. I mean, I only lost the time working on the harness and money spent on a few new parts, I haven't even mocked it up in the cradle yet, I haven't cut my trunk out or my decklid hinge, like I said it's a much better choice to stop now then later when its all in and complete. I don't want to make the same mistake twice. If anyone thinks poorly of me because of this decision, fine, I think I can handle that. And just so you know, its not just one person that changed my opinion on it, several people have told me the same things earlier, its just this certain PFF member explained his troubles in clear detail about what the problems were and why.
So, my LQ1 engine along with its custom exhaust is now for sale. It's pretty much ready to go right on a cradle and into the car.
In the end it's actually quite a bit less work for me, because I'm now swapping engines again. I think I'm still going to drop the cradle again to fix/replace the timing cover and oil pan, fix the bad exhaust leak, replace the melted A/C lines, and fix the shifter cables and the mounting bracket for them, and trace the knock sensor wire to check for an open, as that is what is causing the running issues.
I certainly don't blame you, with all the work involved and time invested, but as far as you've come, with the parts accumulated and the hard part (wiring) done, if it were me, I'd be WAY too curious and excited to take on the challenge of accomplishing the swap, and at least driving it a bit to feel the difference in the two engines, and decide between the two.
Wasn't your mom's car supposed to get the 3.4 OHV? How about putting the LQ1 in her car, and trying it out before deciding to sell?
I'm having a hard time deciding which one I'd like to do on my next car, but I was leaning towards what you're doing: Start with the 3.4 OHV, and then the LQ1, and swapping back if I wanted to.
I certainly don't blame you, with all the work involved and time invested, but as far as you've come, with the parts accumulated and the hard part (wiring) done, if it were me, I'd be WAY too curious and excited to take on the challenge of accomplishing the swap, and at least driving it a bit to feel the difference in the two engines, and decide between the two.
Wasn't your mom's car supposed to get the 3.4 OHV? How about putting the LQ1 in her car, and trying it out before deciding to sell?
I'm having a hard time deciding which one I'd like to do on my next car, but I was leaning towards what you're doing: Start with the 3.4 OHV, and then the LQ1, and swapping back if I wanted to.
Reason is if I actually swapped in my LQ1, It would be harder to swap back. This is because to do the swap like i wanted, not only would I have to cut most of the passenger side decklid hinge and lose my torsion springs, but I would have to cut out the factory dog bone mount for clearance and I would lose the bottom section of my trunk.
I am no longer excited to finish the swap because of all the hardships it looks like I will encounter if I did complete it, since it is a massive engine, which is very top heavy and is a complete PITA to even try to work on while in the car. That is the main problem it moves too much and with all the weight being on top, it destroys either a mount, the done bone, or itself. and when it does break loose, the 470lb giant is going to slam into something and break it for sure. I did some measuring, and the cam towers come to rest with less then an inch of space between them and the trunk and firewall. There are much better solutions out there. I'm just taking bits and pieces out of what this guy told me, if anyone wants the full story I'd be happy to share.
Why not swap it into my mom's 88 coupe? Because I designed the wiring, ECM programming, and whatnot for a manual transmission, and the 88 is an auto. I am not swapping over another fiero from auto to manual again, no thanks. An LQ1 is wasted if it's hooked up to an auto in my opinion. I was thinking I'd rather wait and swap in a 4.9/4T60e. That would be amazing, I got a ride in one of those, amazing amount of torque.
EDIT: If I can't sell it, then yea it may end up in the 88 coupe.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 12-18-2010).]
Cant wait for this freeze to part and see you get your 3.4pr going. I agree your making the best decision now this year you can enjoy driving more then working.
Cant wait for this freeze to part and see you get your 3.4pr going. I agree your making the best decision now this year you can enjoy driving more then working.
Me too, but like i said, I think i'll need to drop the cradle again to fix several of the issues it currently has, which I wrote down on a piece of paper.
I have also decided today that I'm going to program my own chip(s) from now on, so I bought the C.A.T tuner kit, a little pricey but actually cheaper in the long term because I don't have to keep sending my chip out, and I can make some money programming others chips once I get the hang of it.
And another reason I'm doing my own tuning is because I'm going to use my Dual Throttle Body Intake on my 3.4 PR, which most likely will take time to program for the best settings, since not many others have done this. Like I posted earlier in this thread, here is a picture of what I designed mine off of. It's not going to be this nice and shiny, but I'll do my best.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 12-22-2010).]
Reason is if I actually swapped in my LQ1, It would be harder to swap back. This is because to do the swap like i wanted, not only would I have to cut most of the passenger side decklid hinge and lose my torsion springs, but I would have to cut out the factory dog bone mount for clearance and I would lose the bottom section of my trunk.
I am no longer excited to finish the swap because of all the hardships it looks like I will encounter if I did complete it, since it is a massive engine, which is very top heavy and is a complete PITA to even try to work on while in the car. That is the main problem it moves too much and with all the weight being on top, it destroys either a mount, the done bone, or itself. and when it does break loose, the 470lb giant is going to slam into something and break it for sure. I did some measuring, and the cam towers come to rest with less then an inch of space between them and the trunk and firewall. There are much better solutions out there. I'm just taking bits and pieces out of what this guy told me, if anyone wants the full story I'd be happy to share.
Thats funny ..I've been driving mine for 5 yrs now, run the snot out of it and never get bored with driving the car. It was the engine Pontiac was going to put in the 89 Fiero so its a natural progression from a 2.8. I think you are making a mistake in not at least trying the engine out. Also it isn't VERY top heavy and feels like a stock engine in back handling wise around corners. I never had to cut my trunk out for my exhaust nor did I have to cut the stock dog bone mount out. It looks like the person who convinced you it isn't worth trying didn't setup the engine correctly. Also it isn't that hard to work on. No more so than the 2.8 in some respects. I do commend whoever told you the weight of the engine even though its about 5 lbs too heavy. Some think the engine weighs 492 lbs which is incorrect.
Why would you want to swap back? You could simply mount another passenger hinge if you wanted to go back stock with the torsion springs intact. I have a wingless fastback and it had the spoiler springs and with one of the spring gone it will lift the wingless lid and stay lifted. A strut for the wing lid is a simple fix. Most cars hoods have to be propped up by struts or a hood prop rod
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 12-22-2010).]
Thats funny ..I've been driving mine for 5 yrs now, run the snot out of it and never get bored with driving the car. It was the engine Pontiac was going to put in the 89 Fiero so its a natural progression from a 2.8. I think you are making a mistake in not at least trying the engine out. Also it isn't VERY top heavy and feels like a stock engine in back handling wise around corners. I never had to cut my trunk out for my exhaust nor did I have to cut the stock dog bone mount out. It looks like the person who convinced you it isn't worth trying didn't setup the engine correctly. Also it isn't that hard to work on. No more so than the 2.8 in some respects. I do commend whoever told you the weight of the engine even though its about 5 lbs too heavy. Some think the engine weighs 492 lbs which is incorrect.
Why would you want to swap back? You could simply mount another passenger hinge if you wanted to go back stock with the torsion springs intact. I have a wingless fastback and it had the spoiler springs and with one of the spring gone it will lift the wingless lid and stay lifted. A strut for the wing lid is a simple fix. Most cars hoods have to be propped up by struts or a hood prop rod
Different people have different experiences with this engine. Some have had zero issues, and some nothing but issues. I made my decision because I have already spent $2500+ on my 3.4PR and I don't want to give it up that easily. And its not just the money either, it's my first in a lot of things. First total engine rebuild, first cradle drop, first rear suspension rebuild, and then all the things I did with the car itself that deals with the engine, most notably the auto-manual swap. It means a lot to me, even if it really pisses me off some of the time, it's part of the experience. I'm only 18, I got my whole life ahead of me to do a LQ1 swap if I wanted to. I'm not making a mistake by not trying it out because I shouldn't have bought it in the first place, but it was just to good a "deal" to pass up at the time. Like a lot of things, I now know better because of it.
Different people have different experiences with this engine. Some have had zero issues, and some nothing but issues. I made my decision because I have already spent $2500+ on my 3.4PR and I don't want to give it up that easily. And its not just the money either, it's my first in a lot of things. First total engine rebuild, first cradle drop, first rear suspension rebuild, and then all the things I did with the car itself that deals with the engine, most notably the auto-manual swap. It means a lot to me, even if it really pisses me off some of the time, it's part of the experience. I'm only 18, I got my whole life ahead of me to do a LQ1 swap if I wanted to. I'm not making a mistake by not trying it out because I shouldn't have bought it in the first place, but it was just to good a "deal" to pass up at the time. Like a lot of things, I now know better because of it.
Well I guess all I can say is you'll never know for sure untill you try it. Personally, I just bought another LQ1 engine a brand new crate engine because I know I am going to be driving a LQ1GT for yrs to come. But, I am also have moved on to a N* swap for my other GT which is harder to swap than a LQ1 or a 3800. No problem moving to a different engine swap good luck to you.
Well I guess all I can say is you'll never know for sure untill you try it. Personally, I just bought another LQ1 engine a brand new crate engine because I know I am going to be driving a LQ1GT for yrs to come. But, I am also have moved on to a N* swap for my other GT which is harder to swap than a LQ1 or a 3800. No problem moving to a different engine swap good luck to you.
Well if I ever met up with someone with an LQ1, I'll ask for a ride for sure, and I'll see how it goes from there.
You know what. About my 3.4 PR, I was reading some of the eariler pages of this thread, and I have had code 43 from the very beginning! I think I'm going to run a new wire for it, and if that doesn't work, I'll disable it in the programming. I remember hearing it run without that code set, and it ran great! Then it set code 43, i could hear the exhaust note change, lack of power, it really retarded the timing. I think that has been my issue the whole time.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 12-25-2010).]
Among a few other items, I got a HUGE propane forced air heater for Christmas!! It heats up the garage in less then 5 minutes. This is great for if/when I get a bigger or additional space to work. It's awesome!!
Awesome! You know what I did...yesterday (since its 1am)? I programmed my first PROM chip with a manual code-mask using the tables from my original 3.4 Automatic tune, and it works!!! Still got some bugs to fix, but my it works! Started up my 3.4 PR with it in my 7730 computer, and it idled perfect (considering a large exhaust leak before the O2 sensor). Still bogs when sharpy revved, but I think that's the exhaust leak's fault. Starts a lot faster then before too. And it over all runs better because I disabled the knock sensor in the programming since it was causing problems since the day i first started that engine. Snip!
I bought the CATS tuner kit, which includes the software, programmer, flash chip and two adapters. Not cheap at $215 but after buying the correct ECM definition file, I can program ANY GM OBD1 chip for any GM OBD1 vehicle. Could make some money with this!
I just read through this whole thread for the first time, and must say I'm impressed that you're sticking with it. The frustration can get to you after a while, but on the right day when everything is finally working, you go for a drive and it makes it all seem worthwhile Good luck in whatever you choose to do for the future.
Here is an update picture on my DTBI. Taken from my new phone, not bad eh? I had Mike Gonzalez make me a spacer so I could get the linkage rod to line up.
Well, I admit I didn't make it, just improving the design. Yes it is welded and yes it is aluminm pipe. I think. Now I just need to attempt to polish the thing. Kinda.
Just FYI, This intake is off a 1995 Chrysler 3.5L It has two Fiero looking HOLLEY TB'S that already have a crosslink bar. You could design around these.
Just FYI, This intake is off a 1995 Chrysler 3.5L It has two Fiero looking HOLLEY TB'S that already have a crosslink bar. You could design around these.
Looks a little like the intake I bought and attempted to use, but that didn't work at all. It was off a Nissan 300ZX I believe. It didn't even fit in the engine bay of the Fiero. (sorry about small picture)
I spent some time tonight to sand my DTBI to make it look better, and boy does it! I started at 100 girt, then moved up to 150, then 220, 320, 400, and finally 600 grit, with some wet-sanding. Turned out very nice considering how crappy it looked before. Next is going to be polishing it, but I need to get some polish and a buffing wheel first. I can't do anything about the 2 large dents, so hopefully the Quad 4 cover will keep that hidden. I also made new gaskets and installed them both, including the spacer. The linkage still isn't right, nor was JB weld working in my poor attempt to weld three rods together, so i think it would be best if I made a one piece rod, so I don't have to worry about a butt-joint breaking on me going down the highway. But it's going to a challenge because I will have to make a slot in the center of the rod in two exact places to hold the throttle plates in. Pictures!
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 01-09-2011).]