I was able to do some work on my Coupe this morning. I pulled the wiring back threw the firewall, lowered the engine and fixed the fuel line fastener. Raised it back in the rear and re attached the two rear cradle bolts. Lowered the rear on wooden blocks. These are 15" high and a lot more stable than jack stands. I am going to Walmart to measure a 75 S series battery. I need to know if it'll go in with the alternator in place. It would be a shame to have to remove a bunch of stuff just to install a battery. 88's are a bit more narrow in the rear than all the rest of the Fiero's.
The wiring is all a mess now. I might have to cut and re solder a few wires to straighten out the rats nest.
Ein Bier Bitte?
Just got back form Walmart. Looks like the group 75 S battery will work. It's $48.00. I'll get one when Round Up in S.A. is over.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 08-23-2010).]
I just wanted to comment that you are one of the nicest members that is here on Pennocks. You always are willing to lend a hand, give advice, or just be human.
I just wanted to comment that you are one of the nicest members that is here on Pennocks. You always are willing to lend a hand, give advice, or just be human.
Now, get that engine done so you can enjoy her!
You are wrong big time about me. Just ask my wife she'll tell you how sorry I am. LOL. Thanks for the complements. We are very lucky here on PFF to have so many smart and decent members. I have read in other forums where every body was trying to out cuss the others. I ain't no angel, but I prefer to keep the conversations civil. My grand children are welcome to read any post I make.
I worked on the exhaust today a few hours. I had let the muffler drop to low when we were welding it up last week, so today I cut one piece if the pipe and removed some to raise the rear 4" higher. I just have to re-do the hangers now to match the new position of the two exhaust out pipes.
Wired in a Fiero radio so I could check out the speakers before I solder in the Vibe electrical connector. I want to get the interior pretty well knocked out so I can get some more room in my garage.
I am unhappy about the rats nest I have just to the right of my ECM. I am gonna have to re do some of this.
Working tomorrow.
Bitte ein Bier?
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-12-2010).]
Originally posted by Tony Kania: Oh yeah? "I can see Russia from my house."
He he. Through Google Maps maybe... Its been a while since I've been to Spokane... maybe its moved a bit.
I use to live in Alaska. If your on Little Diomede island (US) on a perfectly clear day you can easily make out Big Diomede island (Russia) in the distance. Prertty cool... no pun intended.
I went to Wal Mart this morning and purchased a new Group 75 Battery for my Coupe $52.00 more in the pot.
I have everything ready to go to solder the radio connector onto the radio harness. I plan on doing this before it gets to humid in the garage. I have ordered the antenna adaptor off of E Bay. I am gonna finish up the front section of the dash and console, and add the auxiliary gauge set to the equation.
I soldered in the Vibe radio connector on to the car part of the harness this morning. I used the heat shrink tubing on all solder joints. I had two of the Fiero gray wires mixed up and it wouldn't play with sound. After I figured it out and corrected the gremlin. She was pure magic. I love this Vibe radio. I just have my 12 battery charger connected to the cars harness so I can't turn on the lights to see 'Park' position. I will correct this some time tomorrow and give it a good 'night' test with the garage door down. I had forgotten to order one of the antenna adaptors, and had to snag one off of E bay this morning. Should be here by Thursday. I got a shipping notice fromt the seller this afternoon.
Mowing tomorrow morning.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-16-2010).]
I worked on the C500 connector today, getting everything back like it was supposed to be. Connected all of the alternator wires. I have found out why so many are relocating the battery . I have about 5/8" between the battery and the tensioner pulley bolt. I don't know if I could replace the brive belt with the battery in the battery tray.
I am gonna go underneath the car this afternoon and see how I want to run the positive battery cable. I don't want to get it roasted, pinched or rubbed raw by the AC pulley and belt. I am just about outta room on the passengers side around the battery's area:
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-18-2010).]
I was able to move some wires around a bit and now have the body part of the C500 off of the idler pulley with 2" to spare. I got a measurement for a Positive battery cable and will get a new one tomorrow. I put a new Negative cable on the engine today, and ran a lead over to the body for a good chassis ground. I raised the front end of the cradle just a bit and was able to pull the passenger side front cradle bolt back enough to get the nut threaded on the end. I need to tighten all of the cradle bots good while underneath doing the battery cable.
I have one mow tomorrow morning at 7:00am, then off to my 88 Coupe for some more punch-out work.
I was able to get a few things done this morning after mowing. I soldered and used the heat shrink on the two wires I had to switch around on the radio connector. I cleaned and vacuumed the area underneath the shifter assembly. It had 22 years worth of cigarette ashes. Installed the shifter assemble and connected the shift cable to it. This is the first time since last August that this car has had a shifter and cable in it. I got underneath the car and connected the passenger side coolant hose and the return line hose from the heater and the coolant pipe. The 88 4Cyl hose was to long. I had to trim about 5 " off of the end that connects to the engine. I didn't get to the parts house to buy a new Positive battery cable.
I went back out in the garage and cut out the parts of the console skeleton that needed to be removed for a Vibe radio install. I now have everything trimmed that needs to by modified for a good clean install. I sat the skeleton in the car. I will finish that part and the front part of the console man yanna ,the HVAC etc. Almost 2pm here, and getting pretty warm in the garage.
Pulled a fast one on the wife this evening. Asked her if she wanted to go to Huntsville for supper, and we stopped off at O'riley's Auto Parts for a new positive battery cable. I gotta remember this one to use again !!!!!!!!!!
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-19-2010).]
Pulled a fast one on the wife this evening. Asked her if she wanted to go to Huntsville for supper, and we stopped off at O'riley's Auto Parts for a new positive battery cable. I gotta remember this one to use again !!!!!!!!!!
He he. The bribe usually works well. Final push to the finish line...
I might get far enough along to try the key tomorrow and find out how my exhaust system sounds. Just one quick blip of the throttle. By this weekend for sure. I have jury duty starting Friday until the trial is over. I want to have coolant in it this weekend.
Mowing again in the AM untill maybe 10:30 or so.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-19-2010).]
Don't you hate when things like work and civic duty gets in the way of Fiero fun?
Not sure how much trans fluid you will need Joe. Mine was full when I got it from Carver1 and it had the Caddy tripots in it. I lost about 1.5 quarts when I installed the axles. When It was all said and done, I put 2 quarts in it to bring up the level. Prior to pulling it from the donor car, Carver1 did a full service on the motor and trans so all the oil/trans fluid was new. Should not hurt the trans to run it low as long as you keep it in park. Once you get the engine running and to temp you can start adding a quart at a time till its up on the stick. I would not think it would take more than 3 or 4 quarts unless the converter is empty too.
I was able to get just a small amount of things done today after mowing. I located a loose wire with a grounding eye. Bloozberry was able to point me at the correct grounding spot for this wire and that's all I was able to get done today. I also was able to get the console skeleton secured to the body.
My Jury duty was cancelled this afternoon, so I have the morning off tomorrow.
After some supper I went back out to try to get some more of the center dash and console back together. My front pad surround was for a car without the auxiliary gauges. I mounted the gauges and measured how wide I needed to cut and how deep I needed to be. I came up with 3 1/2" deep and 8 1/8" wide. I used a metal hack saw to make the cuts after a wood saw really mangled the padded part. The metal cutting blade worked perfect. I did all of this by hand as the plastic underneath the padding is real brittle. I cut off the padding part with a sharp razor blade. I had to remove another 1/8" on the width for the 8 1/8"measurement.
Here ya go: and
Looks like it came this way now!!
The wiring connectors are for the radio, AC controls and the fan switch. As these are difficult to remove at times, I am gonna save them for last in case I have to take this all out again. That slider cable fastener is a ***** to get back on the controller and get the screw started.
I want to make sure the gauges work out ok before I screw down the padded surround. bulbs burn out on occasion. I will need the battery gauges idiot light to work to start the alternator to working.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-20-2010).]
Bunches of little things done today. I made and mounted exhaust hangers, finished adding the fasteners to the console, soldered a new cigarette lighter connector on its wire.
I tried to slide the radio in its place after fastening the HVAC controller, but it wouldn't go the last 3/8". I am gonna have to remove it and do a little more trimming where the face plate slides into the cavity.
I am planning on adding the transmission cooler lines to the body tomorrow. This car was a stick shift. It looks like they just go in the same place that the clutch hydraulic line was. This will complete converting this to an automatic shift car. I have been dreading doing this. Now it's time. I'll blow them out real good in case some dirt dabbers built a nest in there since I brought them home last year.
Drivers side:
Passenger side:
I am thinking about changing the passenger side hanger to the same method that I used on the driver's side. I just didn't want to remove the wheel tub on the passenger side. Lazy I guess.
I went out and prepped two seat hing covers that I had purchased from the Fiero Store. They were for sale at a big discount, and unfinished. I drilled the holes and removed the 'burrs' from the castings. Once smooth I flipped them both upside down and put the tan semi gloss on them. I'll spray the top sides with the vinyl spray this this evening.
They cover this:
And installed:
Turned out real well I think. Tomorrow sometime I am gonna clean the seat rails and put some semi gloss black on them.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-21-2010).]
I love it when car parts migrate into the house! Looking good Joe!
Pat
These seats have been in the house since April when the skins came from Mr Mike. I am gonna put the passenger side in some time real soon to make some room for the grandchildren.
I went tout to the garage to start on putting in the cooler lines. It was a be itch as I thought it would be. I removed the spare tire tub for room and to be able to see what was happening as I threaded them in. At first I had the line on the wrong side of the steering shaft rubber cover thingy:
and close but no cookie:
As the lower pic shows the line is inboard of the steering shaft. I had to take it out and thread it between the frame rail and the steering shaft. Everything lined up pretty good then. Both lines threaded into the radiator the first time real easy. I love it when this happens
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-22-2010).]
I got this leather shift knob in the mail today. mmeyer86gt/gtp here on PFF makes these, and does a great job on them.
I connected up the heater hose and the fuel lines to the engine today. I fastened down the spare tire tub, and painted the jack holder and the spare tire retaining rod. Light day, heat and humidity were horrid by 10:00am. Gonna put the radiator fan back in its mount tomorrow after I give it a good cleaning.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-25-2010).]
Nice shifter knob - the stitching looks great. Thanks for the WCF shift bracket info - I was feeling a little defeated and I di not like the way I had to "rig" mine to work. I feel a change in the works.
I feel your pain with the humidity. At 6:30 AM I was in El Paso - 78* 0% humidity. An hour later I was in San Antonio 100% humidity - it was raining. A few hours later, I was in Houston and when I got out of the rent a car, I almost died - and the humidity was only 78%. It's tough on an old fat man to go from 0% to well any humidity. I do not see how folks can live in the humidity. I guess you "climatize" to wear you live.
The knob is fine, its just to light in color to use in my Coupe. I put it in the car, and it sticks out like sore thumb. mmeyer86gt/gtp here on PFF makes these. He did a great job.
I need to add that the color wasn't his fault, he made what I requested,
This morning I added the overflow tank and the fan. I think all is finished now under neath the front hood.
I removed the exhaust and removed about 3" of the 2.5 straight from each end. I am gonna put it back on one more time so I can mark the 90* turns to head out the rear of the car for welding. I am gonna go to Autozone tomorrow to look for a pair of 2 1/2" chrome tips to weld on the elbows before I drop it one last time for welding.
Just cam in from the shop. I replaced the thermostat with a new 195* one. I drilled two 1/8" holes in it for air escape while filling. New o ring used also. I am not gonna use a Fiero thermostat housing. I plan on using an in line filler topped off with a 20 lb cap. I got me a piece of metal pipe 5" long to join the new hose to the 88's driver side hoses and pipes. I'll post a picture tomorrow if I have it all dialed in.
Gotta be at the dentist for an extraction at 1pm, not gonna get much done tomorrorw.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-25-2010).]
I got new radiator caps , one 16 lb for the radiator, and a 20 lb for the in line filler neck this morning before my trip to the dentist. I also picked up two chrome exhaust tips for the car, but I am not to sure I like them after putting one on a tailpipe. Just didn't suite me.
More tomorrow.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 05-26-2010).]
Joe???? You must be taking it easy this Holiday weekend? I thought for sure I would here it fire up!
Haven't done much this weekend. We were out of town until yesterday around 4:30pm. Slept in this morning. I plan on running the positive battery cable after while.
I finished the transmission cooling lines, added the positive battery cable to the car and finished the exhaust this morning before it got hot in the shop. Axles and parking brake cables tomorrow. I have the new adjustable bolts to put in the lower strut holes. Might take the front wheels off of the 10" blocks. The fronts have been up there since late July or early August last year.
Parking brake cable connector has eluded me, ordered a new one from The Fiero Store. I ordered a pair rebuild kits for the front calipers also.
I found these on E Bay, and ordered up a pair. They are double walled inlet 2.25, outlet 4X3 8.5" long resonated. $42.00 a pair delivered. Photo lifted from E BAy seller:
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-02-2010).]
I got outside about 8:30 am and installed both axle shafts. I installed the bolts that hold the struts to the hub assemblies. I had new adjustable ones for the lower holes. Connected the brake hoses to the metal hard lines.
Did this this morning. I still need to cut out the top of the radio opening so the CD's will come in and out:
Went back outside and trimmed out the top of the radio opening for the CD slot and eject button. Looks pretty good. There is a part of the cabin wiring harness behind this radio about 1" around. I am gonna unwrap it so it will flatten out a bit. The wiring connector for the radio hits this part of the wiring and keeps the radio from going in the last 3'16 inch . There is just not any more room behind the radio. I have a good 1/4 " between the HVAC panel and the faceplate. This does sound real good though.
Rear heater hose on my 88 Coupe runs at the rear passenger side of the engine bay. I now have an exhaust manifold there to offer mucho heat. I was unhappy with the situation. I found a 90* 5/8 inch elbow in the help section. I used a piece of 5/8 hose to add the elbow to the chassis part of the aluminum line. The up part of the elbow got the old end of the 5/8 hose from the engine. I am 5 inches away from any exhaust heat now. I can add a second elbow if I find the new piece of hose to hot. This will get me far away from any engine heat.
I bought two foot of both size vacuum hoses and connected all of my vacuum lines with new hose. I even replaced the old ones connecting the charcoal canister to the metal hard lines.
I plan on working out the vacuum line for the power brakes tomorrow, and finish up the coolant filler and coolant hose deployment. I located my Indy vacuum line I robbed off of the Indy I gave Steve a while back.
I connected the power block by the battery to the positive battery lead to listen to the radio while I was in the shop. I had the key switch to the 'RUN' position. My radiator fan came on. I have been thinking about this all afternoon. Why is this darned fan running? It just came to me. My AC switch was pushed in on 'normal" AC. I hit the 'OFF' button, re connected the power lead. No more fan running. You just don't know how happy this made me.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-04-2010).]
Not much done today. I have a grand daughter graduating from high school tomorrow, and was asked by my bitter half to not go and get my hands stained dark working on that piece of junk in the garage again. I will not be able to get back on the Coupe until Sunday some time. I have mows to do Monday if it isn't raining again.
I had ordered some compressor 'O' rings last weekend. They arrived today, and were sealing washers, not compressor port 'O' rings. I spent about two hours on the net looking for a number to try to look up to get the correct ones. I located OEM # 02724674, which is AC Delco #1530169. I called O'Rrilly's in Huntsville, TX They had 9 in stock. 83 cents each. I drove the 32 miles each way and bought me 4 of these. If I was asking for these by application, 91 Cad Deville, AC & heating, compressor seals, etc they were not listed. I found this OEM number at http://gmpartsgiant.com/
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-04-2010).]
Those look great Joe - hurry up and get them mounted then fire it up so we can hear what it sounds like!
I bet those do work great. I ran resonator tips once and they were great. Been considering a new set myself. I really like those. Nice choice! Can't wait to hear them also. First drive is edging closer......
[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-08-2010).]
I bet those do work great. I ran resonator tips once and they were great. Been considering a new set myself. I really like those. Nice choice! Can't wait to hear them also. First drive is edging closer......
The biggest problem I have right now is finances. I am having to put money away for next years taxes. They have gone up for this year that are due Jan. 1, 2011. I also have my wife's car in the garage with the alternator out being rebuilt. I can't hardly see the Coupe right now, much less work on it.
I did make some progress on working out the AC lines yesterday. I have all of that ready to go back on the car for final test fit before I have the hoses crimped on the aluminum tubing.
Yes I also am pretty happy with the tips. Not bad for $15.00 each, and stainless steel too.
I know what you mean. I'm getting married the end of september. There is no money for anything else, and probably not enough for what needs to be done. We'll make do however we can. May be time to sell one of the fieros.
I got some wiring done this evening and turned the key . She fired up on the second turn. It had to build fuel pressure. It has a bad miss again just like it did at the end of last November. I am thinking that the injectors have gone to Hell again. I poured a bit of gas down the bores and it ran a lot smoother again. I am thinking of getting a set of the Ford 4.6 injectors off of E Bay and quirt wasting my time with these Rochester dog turds I have.
I also need to know what dash light should come on when I turn the key to the run position for the bulb check.. I am showing: Door Ajar Seat Belt Brake Service Engine Soon Volts Oil
I am thinking that the 'Temp" light should come on. I am not sure what else should be on. The Service Engine Soon light goes out after a few seconds of the ignition being on. Is this correct? It has been so long now since I drove my 86 I can't remember.
All gauges were working, Oil pressure, Volts, Tach, Fuel and Temperature needle went to the far left line on start up. Speedo went to '0' MPH. More tomorrow, I am gonna pull the fuel pump fuse and fire it of with just some 'poured in' gas down the throttle bores to check out a few things.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-17-2010).]
The "temp light" only comes on during cranking. And only if you've done the fix.... http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html Before the fix your temp gauge pegs instead. I prefer to switch the wires at the C500 & dash instead of the sensor itself.
Check engine light - Should turn on for 2-3 seconds with key on. After startup should turn on again for 2-3 seconds. This tells you the PCM is working properly.
Fuel gauge should not peg on startup. Is that what I read happened?
[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-10-2010).]
The "temp light" only comes on during cranking. And only if you've done the fix.... http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html Before the fix your temp gauge pegs instead. I prefer to switch the wires at the C500 & dash instead of the sensor itself.
Check engine light - Should turn on for 2-3 seconds with key on. After start up should turn on again for 2-3 seconds. This tells you the PCM is working properly.
Fuel gauge should not peg on start up. Is that what I read happened?
No I was just saying that the gauges were all cooperating, and working as they were supposed to. I'll have to check into the 'Temp" light and see what the deal is, and watch my coolant gauge to see if it is dancing while cranking or not.. Were the 88's miswired also?
Ein Bier Bitte?
Its been a while since I've been to Spokane... maybe its moved a bit. 
