I would recommend two things though while you have it out....new tranny gasket and oilpan gasket...they are going to be a bear to change out and mine have slight leaks...cork...go figure. I plan on getting and installing the type that you cannot overtighten.
I second that. Especially the oil pan. And whatever you do avoid the cork gaskets like the plague. Best one I've ever found is the Fel-pro PermaDry plus part #OS30525T. As usual rockauto has the best price I could find... http://www.rockauto.com/cat...reinfo.php?pk=260765
I'm about the put in my 3rd oilpan gaskets. First I straightened the oilpan and went with cork. Then went to cork/rubber from Rol. Both leaked with the Rol lasting slightly longer. Just received my PermaDry thursday. It looks WAAAAAAAAAAAYY better then anything else I've tried. Rigid composit gasket with silicone rubber seal and includes alignment pins for a perfect fit. I was actually quite impressed and I'm not a huge fan of Fel-pro.
I got a Speedo filter in the mail yesterday. I will put it in the harness this evening. It was a gift from one of the members here on PFF. I will not say who it was so he doesn't get swamped with filter requests.
I just wanted to tell him thanks though. Joe crawford
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-15-2009).]
Started raining here so I could work on the car some.
I replaced the metal behind the 9" speaker hole on one side today and added the standoff that the C500 attaches to. Black 3M Trim Adhesive around the hole and the outside edges on the piece of metal scabbed on. The standoff for the C500 was removed by a PO. fierocarparts here on PFF sent it to me. I got it yesterdays mail. I have been waiting on this to finish up my C550 part of the harness. Ok back to work. Around three more PFF members here got their Caddie swaps fired up this week here. I also finished up replacing the CV boot that let loose about 10 days back.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-03-2009).]
Well I put all of my throttle cable stuff back on the car today and measured the slack. I was just a little less than 5/8" to much cable. So I took my spare cable to the Hardware store and got a blot the same size as the fitting on the end of the cable:
I filed a flat on the bolts shoulder to center punch a hole on it for the drill bit to bite. I drilled 2 1/16" holes on the shoulder. I wanted to have a spare. Cut to the correct length. Both throttle bores closed Both wide open: Edited to add: You can see the factory one,next to it, that I had for an extra.
I have a large flat blade screwdriver with the handle missing. I went back and used it to finish up the staking. It is not gonna come off. I did both sides.
They do not appear to be the same length in the photp, but they are .
Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-24-2009).]
Found a problem while working on wiring in the C500. The trunk hinge torsion bar is hitting the forward valve cover: I have to fix this when I remove the engine next week for the new water pump, oil pan gasket and water pump inlet housing. I also have to finish up with the serpintine belt parts alignment and remount the AC compressor.
I was pretty happy with the way the engine was sitting in the engine bay untill I found this rubbing. Is my engine sitting to high? I don't remember reading that I had to leave this out when using the oil fill valve cover in the front and back of the car.
I finished wiring in the C500 except for the green wire A1 for a trunk release I think. I will confirm the pin position and socket tomorrow. I have a few wires to solder in still, then will try one tablespoon of gas in the TB and see if she will sing for me for a few seconds sometime this weekend.
I removed the fuel tank this morning. It was pretty easy as gas tanks go. The tank was clean on the inside with less than 1/4 gallon of gas that didn't stink. No telling how old it was though. The top showed signs of being soldered, and black sealer around the metal lines where it went into the lid part. The silicone was in the inside of the tank and an been coming off of the repair: I have a replacement top part tof the metal line assembly that I had picked up from Wheels1 back in 2007 for a fuel gauge repair. The three metal lines do not point in the same direstion as the ones off of the car. I think this was off of a V6 car? The one pointing in the wrong direction is just a vapor line. I will cut it and put a hose splice with clamps on it and point it in the correct direction. There was just a little bit difference between the old 4 Cyl pump and the new AC Delco V6 pump The fuel inlet was smaller on the V6 pump. I am gonna use the fuel hose in the AC Delco box instead of the pulsator that was on the replacement metal hose assembly.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-27-2009).]
Pulsators are about 3-5 bucks at your local auto parts store. Usually in the HELP section. When I did my last pump I added one back in and was amazed at how much it quieted down the pump. I was trying to minimize the fuel pump noise as much as possible. Upper and lower rubber isolators, foam fuel pump sleeve, and pulsator. I have to really listen to hear the pump with the engine off. I can't hear it at all when the engine is running... unlike my 84. Something to take into consideration at least.
EDIT: Oh. I also used the caddy fuel pump relay which is nearly silent.
[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 10-27-2009).]
Pulsators are about 3-5 bucks at your local auto parts store. Usually in the HELP section. When I did my last pump I added one back in and was amazed at how much it quieted down the pump. I was trying to minimize the fuel pump noise as much as possible. Upper and lower rubber isolators, foam fuel pump sleeve, and pulsator. I have to really listen to hear the pump with the engine off. I can't hear it at all when the engine is running... unlike my 84. Something to take into consideration at least.
EDIT: Oh. I also used the caddy fuel pump relay which is nearly silent.
I have poor hearing as it is now. I like to be able to hear the pump prime when I turn the key on. But thanks for the information
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-27-2009).]
I built my fuel lines today and took them to the welding shop to get them brazed togeather. I removed the ends of the Fiero steel line and cut it off about 6" from all four ends. I went to the parts house and purchased 2 5/16" line nipples, and 2 3/8" fuel line nipples. I also purchased a 3/8" and 5/16" steel brake line. I cut ther ends off of the steel lines and bent them to fit on top of the passenger side rear frame rail to the trunk bulkhead. There I made a 90* turn to the center of the trunk. When I drop the engine for the new oil pan gasket and to fix the waterpump inlet I will hard mount these to the car. I'll post pictures when the welding shop is finished with the brazeing. I am going to need one foot of 5/16" and 3/8" Goodyear Fuel Injection hose to join the lines to the inlets to the fuel rails. I cut and reshaped the Cadillac fuel lines to point to the center of the trunk. I had a nipple brazed on the end of these also.
Just for information: Autozone sells the Goodyear Fuel Injection Hose with the blue liner. It's about $5.00 a foot, but do not use regular fuel hose for high pressure applications.
McMaster-Carr sells the Fuel Injection Hose Clamps. I havent been able to find these anywhere else local. Packages of 10 each http://www.mcmaster.com/#53175k82/=49fpeo
I am still shooting for a fire up next week some time. I have almost all of the wiring harness stuff finished up, tied out of the way of hot things and am working on the fuel system to get it up to speed. I plan on installing the cooling system next after the fuel is good to go. I have a 14" piece of tailpipe to attach to the rear exhausr manifold so I don't torch the forward trunk bulkhead.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-28-2009).]
Wires are on their way as of yesterday. Can't wait to hear this thing. Oh BTW, the reason the hoses point different is I bet the sending unit is from an earlier car. The fuel lines from my 87 coupe are the same as 87 GT BUT are different from an 85 GT. So I would go that they replaced that sending unit with one from an 84-86 (like the interior). You sure you don't want me to cut out those sections in case you ever want to replace them? LMK Have a great weekend! Steve
------------------ When life gives you lemons, thank them for the Fiero.
Thanks for the insite as to these differences. I will also look at the depth of the two and see if there is a difference there. I didn't even think to look at that part of the equation.
Next week would be a good time for you to come down and take a look Steve !!!
Go back to my first post in this thread and look at the items I listed and the cost incurded so far in this swap. Joe
Edited to add: The old one I removed with the black silicone falling off is 1/2" longer than the other one I have to use as a replacement.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-31-2009).]
Today I went and purchased an inline fuse holder. I soldered a purple and a pink wire to one end of the holder wire and put a male blade on the other end.
On an 88 there are two female ing sockets on the bottom left of the fuse box. There are female sockets on the rear side of this same spot accessable from the rear. I plugged in the flat balde and two new ingition circut wires were created.
I put a 15 amp fuse in the inline holder, but have decided to switch it to a 20 amp tomorrow beccause I am running two circuts off of the one fuse.
I ran the purple wire to the torque converter switch on the brake peddle, then down hill to C203 where I spliced into C203 'P'. My car was a stick shift so this was an empty socket on the engine side of the connector. I added a pin into the 'P' socket, and wired it in to the transmission round connector pin 'A'.
The pink wire I implanted goes to the C203 'A'. This socket was empty on my 88 coupe, so I am going to use it for +12V ignition feed for the shift solinoids on the round transmission connector pin 'E'. I added the male and female pins to the two halfs and finished the wire to the round connector.
I have tried to keep the colors corrrect for added circuts for this swap as much as possable. That is the good thing about having this nice pile of extra wire removed from the Cadillac harness:
Tomorrow I am going to reinstall the fuel tank and blow out the fuel lines before I hook up the lines to the tank. I am going to put 2.5 gallons of fuel into the tank after it is installed so I can see where 2.5 gallons is indicated on the gauge before any more fuel is added.
I want to go over all of the engine grounds before I proceed from there. As I have been reading other members problems from after install with shifting and other type of 'Bugs', it seemed that poor grounds or not connected grounds were high on the list of 'Fixes'.
I am gonna take a copy of the wiring diagrams and circle all of the grounds with a green marker. Then go out to the car and find and check them all off before proceeding.
Getting close tp first start up
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 10-31-2009).]
Well today wasn't what I wanted it to be. One steep forward, two backwards it seems.
I fit the new V6 fuel pump on the metal pipe thingie, and put it all back in the tank. Fit the tank back under the car, and hooked everything back up. I got out from underneath to power up the pump and saw the new fuel pump strainer sitting on the front windshield. I said a few profane words. Picked up my tools,cleaned up and went to A-Zone to get one foot of Goodyear blue lined fuel injection hose.
On the way home I found a 2 foot X 1 foot tool box in the middle of the road.
Gotta a smile on my face at the end of the day after all. It just wasn't from the sound of an American V8 roaring in my garage. Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-02-2009).]
Dropped the tank this morning and put the fuel pump strainer on the pump. Back in the car now. My back is giving me fits now from being on the cool concrete floor in my shop.
I replaced the fuel filter while I was underneath the car. No telling how old it was, or what was inside it. I blew out the return line and supply line with 120 lbs of air pressure before I put the lines back on the tank. Don't need a dirt dobber nest in the fuel rails or pushed into the gas tank. I am gonna put two gallons of gas in there tomorrow, prime the system and look ofr leaks. I want to see where the gas gauge reads a 2 gallons of fuel also.
This is as low as I could get my fuel gauge to read. I played with the two adjustment screws for about 10 min's:
Some of the tools I found yesterday. I trashed some of it because they were rusted to bad, or of soft cheap Chineese quality: A few of the end wrenches have the ratchet built into the box end of the wrench. The brown thing on the right of the top picture is a Swingline electric stapeler.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-02-2009).]
I was checking wires for being connected properly today, ecm, pin number so an so, etc. Following the paths. I have found around 3 mistakes that I have made splicing wires. I taggged these and will address these one at a time after work tomorrow. After seeing some of the harness builds some of you guys have done , mine makes me sick at my stomach. But mine isn't wrapped in the black covering yet, so maybe there is some light at the end of this tunnel after all. Look at this one here. Hell fire GM didn't do them this nice. Olejoedad's 4.9 install:
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-03-2009).]
Correctred the wire I had connected incorrecty. The other two were alright afterall, I had run out of the needed color of wire and forgot to add this into my notes. Tomorrow I will solder in the Baker Electronix VATS bypass, the +12V for the power steering and the Speedo filter. I still will need to connect the purple starter lead to the starter.
I am going to remove the oil filter adapter and do the drill out of the oil passage for the oil cooler bypass.
Then it MIller time
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-05-2009).]
Got home from Corpus Christi afew hours ago and this came on the FedEx truck:
Is the dent in the neck supposed to be there?
Worked in the garage an hour or so checking things out. I still need to verify all the grounds before I put a battery in it. I'll be trying the key on it one day this week for sure. I have to work the next two days so no time for playing with the Fiero.
Got home from Corpus Christi afew hours ago and this came on the FedEx truck:
Is the dent in the neck supposed to be there?
Worked in the garage an hour or so checking things out. I still need to verify all the grounds before I put a battery in it. I'll be trying the key on it one day this week for sure. I have to work the next two days so no time for playing with the Fiero.
Yes it was in my new one as well. Why I don't know. Have fun with that. I hope I never have to do that again.
Correctred the wire I had connected incorrecty. The other two were alright afterall, I had run out of the needed color of wire and forgot to add this into my notes. Tomorrow I will solder in the Baker Electronix VATS bypass, the +12V for the power steering and the Speedo filter. I still will need to connect the purple starter lead to the starter.
I am going to remove the oil filter adapter and do the drill out of the oil passage for the oil cooler bypass.
Then it MIller time
Have you done the Tach mod yet? I haven't done that yet. Its kind of interesting running 70 mph and my tach says 3300 rpm. I have that project saved for the winter lay over.
I have done my spare tach, but haven't put it in the car yet. I can switch it out anytime. Wasn't to bad at all.
I have finished the wiring harness as of today. I still want to check over all the ground leads before I try to fire it off. I will put the cross over pipe back on the engine, and insert a one foot piece of exhayst pipe on the rear manifold so it doesn't roast my trunk.
I plan on doing the oil filter bypass tomorrow after work. Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-10-2009).]
Originally posted by Carrluvr: Have you done the Tach mod yet? I haven't done that yet. Its kind of interesting running 70 mph and my tach says 3300 rpm.
In 1965 I had a 59 Corvette w/ 283 with 3 X 2's. The generator had a cable port on the rear for the tach drive. I reached underneath the dash and switched the tach and speedo cables around. I could do 120 MPH sitting in the driveway. Now that was funnny. Joe
Hey man I just read your whole thread and wanted to compliment you on the pain you go through to sort things out properly instead of just jury rigging. I have been put to shame by your level of commitment. Many Kudos and keep up the good work.
So when do you think you will get to hear it for the first time? Running it without exhaust is truly a sweat cacophony of noise that only autophiles can appreciate, it gets your blood pumping for sure, next thing you know you run around the house with goggles and gloves on, soot on your face; ready for the next 1930s
Nice tool find! Yea I was disappointed that I couldn't get the sending unit to actually read EMPTY when it is in fact empty. I tried it out of the tank and on the bottom rest of the sending unit, the gauge still showed a little over an 1/8th of a tank. I considered filing on the plastic stop. That is one thing that has ALWAYS bothered me about the Fiero. Let me know if you are getting close, might drive down just to hear it and bring you some more parts.
------------------ When life gives you lemons, thank them for the Fiero.
Nice tool find! Yea I was disappointed that I couldn't get the sending unit to actually read EMPTY when it is in fact empty. I tried it out of the tank and on the bottom rest of the sending unit, the gauge still showed a little over an 1/8th of a tank. I considered filing on the plastic stop. That is one thing that has ALWAYS bothered me about the Fiero. Let me know if you are getting close, might drive down just to hear it and bring you some more parts.
Pretty quick now I will try to start it for the first time. Then I'll be dropping it out for some things I didn't do before I raised it up in the engine bay. I have bad back pains today and didn't get to work today. I don't think I will be able to work on the car because of my back.
Josef, you're getting close. Take care of your back first, rest up a little. The Fiero will still be there waiting for you when you're ready.
On the fuel gauge thing: bugs me as well they always seem to read empty when there's still almost 2 gallons left in the tank. At least on my 88' it's that way. But I know running low on fuel puts more stress on the pump. The fuel isn't as cool so the pump runs warmer. So not sure I'll ever bother to "fix" that little quirk.
Hey man I just read your whole thread and wanted to compliment you on the pain you go through to sort things out properly instead of just jury rigging. I have been put to shame by your level of commitment. Many Kudos and keep up the good work.
So when do you think you will get to hear it for the first time? Running it without exhaust is truly a sweat cacophony of noise that only autophiles can appreciate, it gets your blood pumping for sure, next thing you know you run around the house with goggles and gloves on, soot on your face; ready for the next 1930s
Thanks for the complements Dizzixx. I had a 1957 Cadillac V8 engine and transmission in 1963 on the floor of my parents garage. They would get hot when I would pour a dab of gas down the carb and fire it off with a battery. I never ran it more than about 15 seconds. Sometimes fire would shoot up threw the carb if I poured to much gas out of the coke bottle. I know it was dumb, but. Better than Viagra!! Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-11-2009).]
Get a video for us of the first start. Thats the best part. Especially when it doesn't have a full exhaust system yet. The 4.9 just sounds mean when its down piped. I wish I would have started mine before I completed the exhaust. I missed out big.
I was thinking about it last night. If you need you can e-mail a video and I can post it for you. I use filezilla and host on captfiero.com. I can pretty much post anything in any format. Then you wouldn't have to open a youtube account if you don't already have one.
Get a video for us of the first start. Thats the best part. Especially when it doesn't have a full exhaust system yet. The 4.9 just sounds mean when its down piped. I wish I would have started mine before I completed the exhaust. I missed out big.
going through some old stuff
Here is my 4.9/Fiero harness out of the car (less cruise wire plug, injector harness (on the car) and the C500):
Also found a crappy video of my first drive (I lost the first startup video (and others) due to a hard drive crash way back) no exhaust after the manifolds and wheel alignment way off: http://members.shaw.ca/efog.../4.9/first_drive.avi
[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 11-12-2009).]
I wish I would have started mine before I completed the exhaust. I missed out big.
