I was under the Cherokee and it looks totally easy to covert to 4x4. I was toying with the idea of just buying a rolled or damaged 4x4 with good suspension and swapping it over. Then I can part out the remains of the doner Cherokee. Hmmm another project.
I was on NAXJA forum during the build. They were VERY helpful and great people.
the alt bracket came from Rockcrawl at Fieroadiction. It was made for the stock Fiero alt so it could make the engine swap a little easier for those that just reprogram the ECM. I do things the hard way so I modified the alt bracket to use the stock LS4 alt.
stock LS4 alt mount.
The water pump housing is so close to the fire wall that I felt it was a good idea to move the pulley and trim down the mount for better breathing room.
With the pulley off you can see a "boss" so I drilled into this boss and made a new pulley mount on my lathe to relocate the pulley.
I had to do something with the coil pack and or the deck lid hinge mount because they want to occupy the same real estate in the bay. So I modified both> I relocated the coil and the mount. Stock coil mount.
Stock deck lid hinge mount cut down to fit engine.
Relocated mount
Relocated coil.
Believe it or not, I plan to use the stock Fiero deck lid hinge springs?
[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 06-24-2009).]
I took the custom exhaust system off of the Short Star and put it on the LS4. I wrapped it with header wrap. The clamps should stop it from unraveling?
I had to try to keep heat out of the alt. The alt has three layers of heat protection, Header wrap, stock heat shield and this heat blanket. I got the heat blanket from the stock LS4 motor mount. It protected the gel-filled front motor mount from the exhaust manifold. Now it is between the atl and the rear manifold.
It looks like progress is coming pretty steadily, keep up the good work! Something worth considering...that alternator needs to shed a lot of heat. Between your brackets and heat shields, it looks like the alternator will be hard pressed to get some good airflow pumping through it. You might consider focusing your heat shield more on the exhaust and less on the alternator. Similar concept to what you've done, except that you're attaching it to the exhaust manifold instead of the alternator.
Obviously, it'll work the way you've got it for a while...you're just a little more likely to overheat (and kill) the alternator.
I took the custom exhaust system off of the Short Star and put it on the LS4. I wrapped it with header wrap.
That works. Down the road, if Fresno has as much airborne salt as Monterey, CA / the coastal region has, I suggest getting them Jet-Hot coated. I've seen things rust under header wrap in coastal regions of Cali. Besides, Jet hot coatings look at car shows! (which you'll be winning all the time! )
[This message has been edited by Austrian Import (edited 06-24-2009).]
It looks like progress is coming pretty steadily, keep up the good work! Something worth considering...that alternator needs to shed a lot of heat. Between your brackets and heat shields, it looks like the alternator will be hard pressed to get some good airflow pumping through it. You might consider focusing your heat shield more on the exhaust and less on the alternator. Similar concept to what you've done, except that you're attaching it to the exhaust manifold instead of the alternator.
Obviously, it'll work the way you've got it for a while...you're just a little more likely to overheat (and kill) the alternator.
Bryce
You may be right, but the heat shield is not actually on the alt. It is attached to the bracket. I made sure I have good air flow from the internal fan. The alt has an air gap all around it for air flow. I plan to use a pre88 blower and duct the air to the alt, like the stock pre88's do. I think that will do the trick.
That works. Down the road, if Fresno has as much airborne salt as Monterey, CA / the coastal region has, I suggest getting them Jet-Hot coated. I've seen things rust under header wrap in coastal regions of Cali. Besides, Jet hot coatings look at car shows! (which you'll be winning all the time! )
I am with you. I don't like header wrap. I am pressed for time and money on this one. I just don't want to sink $$ into this exhaust system. It is supposed to be made of stainless. I just never got around to it. But for now this will give me some time till I make another one out of SS..
Stock deck lid hinge mount cut down to fit engine.
Relocated mount
I was reading your updates and saw these pictures of that poor hinge mount. The wheels started turning in my head! What would happen if the hinge mount was flipped 90* with the threaded studs pointing down, under the shelf that the rear window is sitting on? Is there enough movement in the hinge, for the deck lid to swing open? This would clean up the firewall some and you could mount the coil back in, it's stock location.
Just a thought, that I am going to look into. When I get ready to do my engine swap.
I was reading your updates and saw these pictures of that poor hinge mount. The wheels started turning in my head! What would happen if the hinge mount was flipped 90* with the threaded studs pointing down, under the shelf that the rear window is sitting on? Is there enough movement in the hinge, for the deck lid to swing open? This would clean up the firewall some and you could mount the coil back in, it's stock location.
Just a thought, that I am going to look into. When I get ready to do my engine swap.
Keep up the good work!
I had to use the mount as is and move it to the driver side about 3" so I could keep the stock deck lid springs in tact. I don't know if the flip would work?
Originally posted by exoticse: Maybe i just missed it, but are you telling me that the Malibu dash fit right into the fiero with no modifications ?!!?
It was the right width and everything ???
Looks amazing !
Talking about a loaded question Yes and No is the answer. I only trimmed a very small piece of the top corners so it would clear the A pillar. I did have to cut out the top forward corner of the door panels to be able to close the doors. The Fiero A pillar trim plastic was cut to fit over the top of the dash instead of between the dash and A pillar (as the stock Fiero pillar/dash did). And I cant use the Malibu end caps because there is just no room for them. I have to make new ones. IF you consider the "beam" a part of the dash then MAJOR mods had to be done to fit the Dash in the Fiero. I did not try to fit the dash over the stock Fiero steering column brace. So maybe it will be MUCH MUCH MUCH easier to do the swap with out the beam.
I made a quick disconnect for the fuel tank. It adapts the small vent hose on the tank to the large vent tube on the fill line. I welded the stock Fiero over flow?vent tube because the LS4 sending unit has one integrated into the top.
Looks like you're going with Kappa (Solstice/Sky) suspension parts, huh? I've had my eye on them for a while and thought they'd package fairly well in the Fiero (and be a big geometry improvement). I wanted to use them for my $2009 AWD Fiero, but they're still a bit pricy from the junkyards for my project. It will be interesting to see how you make your chassis attachment points. I think the 6 speed manual trans (F40) axle assemblies would mate with the Kappa hubs, but never checked the facts myself, just reading stuff on the internet (and you know how that goes!). Have you checked axle compatibility between your auto and the Kappa hubs yet?
Looks like you're going with Kappa (Solstice/Sky) suspension parts, huh? I've had my eye on them for a while and thought they'd package fairly well in the Fiero (and be a big geometry improvement). I wanted to use them for my $2009 AWD Fiero, but they're still a bit pricy from the junkyards for my project. It will be interesting to see how you make your chassis attachment points. I think the 6 speed manual trans (F40) axle assemblies would mate with the Kappa hubs, but never checked the facts myself, just reading stuff on the internet (and you know how that goes!). Have you checked axle compatibility between your auto and the Kappa hubs yet?
Bryce
When I had them out and "mocked up" the plan was to just use the stock KAPPA axles. They are so large in diameter that it may be possible to cut them to length and spline them. That way you wont be limited to some stock axles that may or may not be the right length. But if a set could be used and bolted up, that would be even better. My plan was to use the KAPPA suspension, brakes and power steering on a F40 LS3 combo.
BTW: if you want to build an AWD with this susp you will need two rear sets to do it. The front has splined hubs but the shock is directly centered between the wishbones. I don't see any way to modify it for a drive shaft and still have good steering range of motion? I guess you could make a "stilt" but that seems a little extreme and maybe impractical? But still worth looking into.
[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 06-26-2009).]
When I had them out and "mocked up" the plan was to just use the stock KAPPA axles. They are so large in diameter that it may be possible to cut them to length and spline them. That way you wont be limited to some stock axles that may or may not be the right length. But if a set could be used and bolted up, that would be even better. My plan was to use the KAPPA suspension, brakes and power steering on a F40 LS3 combo.
BTW: if you want to build an AWD with this susp you will need two rear sets to do it. The front has splined hubs but the shock is directly centered between the wishbones. I don't see any way to modify it for a drive shaft and still have good steering range of motion? I guess you could make a "stilt" but that seems a little extreme and maybe impractical? But still worth looking into.
I've got a Sky and I've done a spring swap on it, so I'm intimately familiar with the suspension design. I actually looked to the Kappa suspension long before I got the Sky, that's just a coincidence. I thought the path of least resistance would be to use two RWD setups from the Kappa (if doing an AWD Fiero), as the "rear" knuckle has a steering attachment, but in the end the route I've taken (using mostly stock '88 Fiero parts) has worked out pretty well. I don't have fancy aluminum suspension parts, but it's cheap and easier, which is the name of the game for the $2009 build.
Engine is in the car and should be staying that way for good. We have been working the last 3 days and late into the night trying wrap up the engine work. Rick is still working on it now, hooking up the all the necessary lines and hope to have it on all 4 wheels very soon.
Well, Rick was up until 5:30am working on the car! He would have drove it up and down the street this morning except for a small problem. The driver side axle he put together is a little too long. So, we are on a mad dash to try to find a Beretta axle? Rick has to work the next 3 days, then hopefully we can find something in the local yards on Tues. With only 2 weeks to WestFest, we need this asap! Wish us luck! Sure Sounds great though!
Looks like your engine is a little farther rearward than mine. And maybe a little tilted, so the "front" of the engine, as installed, is a little too high, and the "rear" a little too low. Also, seems your engine is a little farther to the passenger side. But I'm currently using a RWD LSX attached to my stock Muncie, moved 5/8" to the driver side per V8 Archie's method, with a 1/4" adapter plate. I appreciate the pics, after studying them I no longer want to try the LS4 water pump and water manifold, nor any of the LS4 exhaust parts.
Looks like your engine is a little farther rearward than mine. And maybe a little tilted, so the "front" of the engine, as installed, is a little too high, and the "rear" a little too low. Also, seems your engine is a little farther to the passenger side. But I'm currently using a RWD LSX attached to my stock Muncie, moved 5/8" to the driver side per V8 Archie's method, with a 1/4" adapter plate. I appreciate the pics, after studying them I no longer want to try the LS4 water pump and water manifold, nor any of the LS4 exhaust parts.
It is flat and level, and part of the reason I cant use my Short Star axles is that is moved more to the driver side than the V6. Now the driver side axle is to long. Maybe the pics are a little deceiving? As far as I can tell it is centered front to rear. But I have not measured it.
Rick ~ here I am digging around for some pics of your car (a friend likes your paint scheme for inspiration)... and I stumble on this.
You are a mad man. Or a Mad Scientist... either way, this has been a simply amazing read. Hmmm... looks like you may need a new signature soon too!
BTW ~ you mentioned the shortstar being available? Can you PM me details on that if you've still got it? My Dad has always been really interested in one... and I can at least run it by him!
Rick ~ here I am digging around for some pics of your car (a friend likes your paint scheme for inspiration)... and I stumble on this.
You are a mad man. Or a Mad Scientist... either way, this has been a simply amazing read. Hmmm... looks like you may need a new signature soon too!
BTW ~ you mentioned the shortstar being available? Can you PM me details on that if you've still got it? My Dad has always been really interested in one... and I can at least run it by him!
Thanks. I will need to get a new sig ( I like the one you made for me ) But I guess I never really thought about how to change it?
I don't need the Short Star any more, but I did take parts off of it for this swap and the wire harness has suffered from my need for recyclables. But I did plan to replace the missing stuff for a "drop in" conversion.
Well I drove the car today. A little anti climatic but tomorrow will be a real drive. I only drove it out of the garage and back in again. It drove in reverse fine but forward seemed like it was starting in fourth gear? It died a few times when I put it in forward so I gave it a little gas and it knocked and pinged then took off. It wont display the gear it is in on the dash? So I will replace the trans control module and see what happens.
Yeah, sounds like the TCM to me. My GP GXP exhibited the same behaviour when HPT crashed while writing an updated tune to the TCM, and then wouldn't attempt to write to the TCM again because of the prior "write error". Tech support gave me a patch about two days later that fixed the issue.
OK, I changed out the TCM and I now have a dash displaying the gear it is in. So I hope this fixed the problem. Fortunately I happened to find an LS4 Monte at a yard some time back and I picked up the TCM and PCM along with some other things I planed on using the PCM for the "performance" tune and use the stock PCM for smog. The TCM came in handy already.
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I actually looked to the Kappa suspension long before I got the Sky, that's just a coincidence. I thought the path of least resistance would be to use two RWD setups from the Kappa (if doing an AWD Fiero), as the "rear" knuckle has a steering attachment, but in the end the route I've taken (using mostly stock '88 Fiero parts) has worked out pretty well. I don't have fancy aluminum suspension parts, but it's cheap and easier, which is the name of the game for the $2009 build.
He would have drove it up and down the street this morning except for a small problem. The driver side axle he put together is a little too long. So, we are on a mad dash to try to find a Beretta axle? Rick has to work the next 3 days, then hopefully we can find something in the local yards on Tues. With only 2 weeks to WestFest, we need this asap! Wish us luck! Sure Sounds great though! 
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