Rick, The car looks and sounds great. If that's a GM adjustable pedal, I'm proud to say I have content on your car. The controller is mine
Awesome job...
Bob
I think you just said you made the controller for the adjustable pedals? Cool, yes they are factory GM. They came from the same car the dash came from. It is an 08 Malibu. I think they are the memory type? But I just don't know much about them, I just modified them to fit in my car I can live without them but I actually use them more than I thought I would. I thought I would set them for me and my wife would move them for her. But I move them around as I drive on long drives to stretch my legs out and that is a great feeling.
I actually use them more than I thought I would. I drive on long drives to stretch my legs out and that is a great feeling.
Does your cruise control work on the LS4? That's the deal breaker for me getting a LS4 or for that matter LS7. A large percentage of my driving is highway and I can't live w/o a cruise control.
I've been looking at your video's for quite a long time now. I may have missed it in the thread but what muffler is that in this video? EDIT: Or is that a Ceramic / spun catalytic Converter?
I'm just finishing a TBI SBC in mine and currently have it test fitted with (1) 3" Dynomax Hi-Flow Cat (I've got emissions here in PA too . . . FUN !!!)
[This message has been edited by 3084me (edited 04-14-2010).]
I've been looking at your video's for quite a long time now. I may have missed it in the thread but what muffler is that in this video? EDIT: Or is that a Ceramic / spun catalytic Converter?
I'm just finishing a TBI SBC in mine and currently have it test fitted with (1) 3" Dynomax Hi-Flow Cat (I've got emissions here in PA too . . . FUN !!!)
That is the stock GM duel wall Stainless Steel cat that comes on the LS4. I cut off the restrictive ends and welded on larger 3" pipe.
Does your cruise control work on the LS4? That's the deal breaker for me getting a LS4 or for that matter LS7. A large percentage of my driving is highway and I can't live w/o a cruise control.
No my CC does not work.......YET. I melted one of the resisters during the conversion and have not got around to getting a new one. But YES the CC will work as a factory option would. The only thing I have done to this car sense the West Fest Fiero Show was drive it and put new tires on it, and I put gas in it a few times It is still an uncompleted project.
This is what I melted. I put it in place but it was the wrong place so I had to remove it and reinstall it. Well the thing just could not take all the manhandling.
[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 04-15-2010).]
Hey,, while I'm thinking of it, What Radiator are you running in that thing?? My last carbed V8's did fine with the stock V6 rad but I keep going back and forth with "going aftermarket" with this current build. Just curious since reading the thread it seems that your temp is holding very well.
Very clean build. I wish I was closer. I'd love to see that thing in person. Great work.
Hey,, while I'm thinking of it, What Radiator are you running in that thing?? My last carbed V8's did fine with the stock V6 rad but I keep going back and forth with "going aftermarket" with this current build. Just curious since reading the thread it seems that your temp is holding very well.
Very clean build. I wish I was closer. I'd love to see that thing in person. Great work.
Thanks: nice project. At one time I would have killed for a 288 kit. Well...maybe not killed but you get the picture I had my heart set on a picture perfect replica of the 328. I have always, and still do like the 308 platform.
I am running an after market rad from F.O.C.A. They are gone now but it is a 3 core. I can hold a VERY solid 1/3 temp gauge reading all day long even in 100+ outside temps. It has only seen 3/4 once or twice during the swap before I installed a restrictor in the heater circuit. I would not think about anything other than a Champion now after installing one for some body else. GREAT price for an all aluminum 4 core that is "almost" a direct fit in the Fiero.
Champion is the rad that I'm getting ready to order. It's a great product and SOOOOOO much easier and cheaper than modifying a Griffin or Summit Radiator. Thank goodness there is damand for the Fiero radiator and they produce them. I've heard of a few saying to leave the V6 rad, and even though it worked fine for me before, this particular car is really, really clean.
I used a 41,000 mile car and everything is pretty much new so I just didn't want to leave the OEM radiator in there and then have to drain coolant, modify etc after the fact.
I'm using an electric water pump on this one as opposed to the Archie waterpump setup on the last 2 and I think if there is a difference in flow etc, I'd rather have an upgraded radiator, "complete and finished" from the start while the system is currently open. (Hate to do things twice).
Again, great build.
[This message has been edited by 3084me (edited 04-15-2010).]
Hi Rick, I have to echo the many compliments you have received - they are all well deserved. I was at a light today beside a Malibu, and thought right away of you and your Fiero.
What do you have for brakes hiding behind the ASA rims? I have been through your thread more than once but have not found the answer. Edit to add: Also, are your rims the ASA AR1 silver painted with machined lip?
Thanks, Dave.
------------------ Daviero - 88 N* GT
[This message has been edited by Daviero (edited 04-16-2010).]
Quick question: What is the size/diameter of the restrictor you've installed in you heater line?
Thanks!
Thanks, The restrictor in this one is machined out of aluminum ans pressed into one of the hose fittings. I think it has a .25" hole? It is not that large at all. The heater still vets hot. But around here we only see freezing a few times a year. So if it were not hot enough, I could just run a larger drill thru it. Its function is to force the water to circulate thru the radiator and not just the heater core. You only need an orifice large enough to allow the need hot water to heat the cab. The rest of the water needs to go to the radiator to cool the engine. So the size of the orifice can be larger in cold climates and smaller in hot climates.
What do you have for brakes hiding behind the ASA rims? I have been through your thread more than once but have not found the answer. Edit to add: Also, are your rims the ASA AR1 silver painted with machined lip?
Thanks, Dave.
Thanks, the brakes are West Coast Fiero C4. The rims are ASA AR1. Front is 17x7x 38 and the rear are 17x8x 35. They are a silver metallic paint with a machined lip.
So the size of the orifice can be larger in cold climates and smaller in hot climates.
I guess that would be thrown out the window here - we have two temperatures "over 1million" and "absolute freaking zero" - at least, that's what I've been told.
For the sake of relatedness...: Great build, man. I was watching this from the beginning (before I had an account), and I now hold you partially responsible for getting me into Fieros. Inspiring work.
[This message has been edited by skuzzbomer (edited 04-17-2010).]
I guess that would be thrown out the window here - we have two temperatures "over 1million" and "absolute freaking zero" - at least, that's what I've been told.
For the sake of relatedness...: Great build, man. I was watching this from the beginning (before I had an account), and I now hold you partially responsible for getting me into Fieros. Inspiring work.
LOL, sorry
I love Nashville, I have a buddy over there and spent a week at his place a few years ago.
Thanks Rick for the info on the heater hose vent hole diameter.
Another question to you or anyone else that would like to comment: Can I completely block the heater water hose (summer car, don't need any heater), or is there a requirement for some water circulation when the thermostat is closed just after start up?
Thanks Rick for the info on the heater hose vent hole diameter.
Another question to you or anyone else that would like to comment: Can I completely block the heater water hose (summer car, don't need any heater), or is there a requirement for some water circulation when the thermostat is closed just after start up?
Thanks, Andre
I have never looked inside the Xover pump housing but I would say that if you don't want a heater then find a way to loop the heater pipes together. Water will circulate around inside the engine to prevent "hot spots" and that constant circulation thu the heater circuit may play a vital roll? BUT one thing is for sure, if you loop it you cant hurt anything. If you plug it, do you want to take a rick of some type of damage?
I think your logic that air might get trapped and cause hot spots is very valid.
On the other hand, just looping the 2 pipes together could bypass too much hot water directly back into the engine and lower the cooling capacity of the system. So I would say keeping the loop, but with your 1/4" restrictor should be the best overall solution.
My brother's boat used a standard irrigation gate valve to control the flow of cooling water. I wonder if there is a nice adjustable valve that would work to control the flow of heater coolant so you could "tune" it to work best. Might be useful if a different flow was required seasonally.
I put 87 front springs in the front of my 88 and an uncut set of front 88 springs in the rear. I cut exactly two coils off of the 87 springs and the 88 front springs went in the rear struts without any mods. I did flip the insulator block and that lowered the rear about .5" and preloaded the spring. I am happy with the stiffer spring rates on the front and back and have not bottomed out on ANY bump that used to knock out my teeth if I did not slow down. I also put in all polly with grease zerks and new ball joints. I greased the front wheel bearings with a straw, and did a quick alignment. I am VERY happy with the spring combo and it has a great stance. HAPPY to drive is an understatement
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[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 05-12-2010).]
I put 87 front springs in the front of my 88 and an uncut set of front 88 springs in the rear. I cut exactly two coils off of the 87 springs and the 88 front springs went in the rear struts without any mods. I did flip the insulator block and that lowered the rear about .5" and preloaded the spring. I am happy with the stiffer spring rates on the front and back and have not bottomed out on ANY bump that used to knock out my teeth if I did not slow down. I also put in all polly with grease zerks and new ball joints. I greased the front wheel bearings with a straw, and did a quick alignment. I am VERY happy with the spring combo and it has a great stance. HAPPY to drive is an understatement
I am kinda suprized more of the 88's haven't picked up on this simple/inexpensive spring mod...
Excellent input Rick - I haven't seen this before and coming from you, I know it will be perfect.
BTW, this thread definitely belongs in the Construction Zone - Cliff?
quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:
I put 87 front springs in the front of my 88 and an uncut set of front 88 springs in the rear. I cut exactly two coils off of the 87 springs and the 88 front springs went in the rear struts without any mods. I did flip the insulator block and that lowered the rear about .5" and preloaded the spring. I am happy with the stiffer spring rates on the front and back and have not bottomed out on ANY bump that used to knock out my teeth if I did not slow down. I also put in all polly with grease zerks and new ball joints. I greased the front wheel bearings with a straw, and did a quick alignment. I am VERY happy with the spring combo and it has a great stance. HAPPY to drive is an understatement
[This message has been edited by 88GTS (edited 05-12-2010).]
Thanks, I don't have any pics of the spring swap but I might try to come up with something? I wanted to see if this would work first before I posted about it.
I love your work. The best attention to detail I've ever seen. And your modesty just puts the cherry on top. I just posted on one of your YouTube videos, but I'll post here too:
If you had all the financial sources you needed (plus extra for you), would you build an interior for another person (like me). This is theoretical, just wondering if you are a person I'd look to in the future.
I'd make it worth your while. But please, if you don't have the desire, just keep doing what you are doing and I'll try and mimic!
I love your work. The best attention to detail I've ever seen. And your modesty just puts the cherry on top. I just posted on one of your YouTube videos, but I'll post here too:
If you had all the financial sources you needed (plus extra for you), would you build an interior for another person (like me). This is theoretical, just wondering if you are a person I'd look to in the future.
I'd make it worth your while. But please, if you don't have the desire, just keep doing what you are doing and I'll try and mimic!
Thanks, I have had most people at Fiero shows comment on the dash more than the engine. That dash was more work than two engine swaps. It is just not worth doing again, like I did it. If I were to do it again I would just install the dash cover over a MUCH more simple back bone and use the stock AC system. That would make it MUCH more "doable". But in all fairness this dash was done to fit an exact engine and an exact car to use ALL the components that were never made for the dash. So just doing the dash cover "should" be MUCH easier?
Can you clarify what all the connections are here? I'm thinking of possibly using a pump from GTO instead, as it looks to be a little smaller in the pictures I can find of them. It only has the feed line connection, and 2 electrical connectors, presumably the fuel pump connection and tank pressure sensor. I presume those are the same two connections here. But what are the other two tubes for on the LS4 pump? I'm guessing the largest one is the feed?
The shortest plastic line furthest to the top/right is a blank. It is not drilled for any use. The center line is the fuel supply line to the engine. The largest line is the "vent" line. It serves the same purpose as the small metal pipe at the end of the tank. It is welded closed for this mod. I ran a new hose from the new fuel fill vent pipe to the gas cap. The hole on the side of the assembly goes to the charcoal canister. The electric plugs consist of two separate connectors. One is for the pump/gauge and the other is the pressure sensor. The sending unit has a fuel regulator inside the tank so there is only one fuel line to the engine.
Cool, I didn't even know this thread had been moved to the construction zone. Thanks.
Finally, I am able to start getting some more work done to the car. I had the LS4 AC lines adapted to work with the Fiero now I need to make some custom lines for the front. I needed to remove the engine to change a bad water pump but I also wanted to check for clearances and make some adjustments. Ironically I also had to change the water pump on the GTO and the little Ls4 pump was more expensive.
Weird!! I was just thinkin the other day how an F458 dash would look like in a Fiero, and boom, today I find yur build thread, again, lol... The speedo pods look pretty similiar.... LUBB the werk done in this car!! 1 thing, going over this thread, all I did was look 4 pix of the interior, to find the door cards, are u werkin on 'em yet? Any pix of that? Did the Malibu ever come in a 2 door? Or are the 4 door skins a good fit, front ones, of course .........
Thanx for the inspiration!
Eric J....
------------------ Me, I sell engines, the cars are for free, I need something to crate the engines in.... Enzo Ferrari....
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines.... Enzo Ferrari...
Today they are called garage's, yesterday, they were stable's! Eric Jacobsen....
The Malibu door panels are plastic and way too tall, the Fiero door panels are short and long, so I decided to just make custom ones to match the dash. I did start to make them, but life gets in the way sometimes. Hope to start them after I finish few more things on the car.
I got the engine back in the car after I modified the shock tower, changed the water pump and repainted the engine bay. I got to test drive the car yesterday soon I'll start working on the s10 brake booster. I already did that on another car but have not got to do it to this one yet.