Spent most of the day sitting in the driver seat installing the clutch switch and wiring up the wideband...
Drivers seat mounted (still need to trim the mounting brackets some in front):
When I ran the rear portion of the wideband harness, I added a connector close to the sensor and extended the wires so I could get the controller out of the engine bay. Since there is no throttle cable, I figured the space in front of the shifter was a good place for the wide band controller and its wires. You can also see the DBW pedal harness running along the vacuum tube:
Here is a temp mount for the wideband gauge (haven't decided exactly where I will put this, but I like it here for tuning). Once this was mounted, I went ahead and calibrated the wideband in open air, then reinstalled it:
Then I ran the wires to the clutch pedal. If you look closely I used some 5/8" hose and a wire tie to hold the switch in place. One wire terminated at the ground screw from the front harness, the other one traveled along the vacuum tube and was connected to the TCM (after yet another connector was added).
I decided to make a laptop stand for the car (the corner pads support the rubber feet on the laptop):
Notice the stand is a little deeper than needed, mainly so the top can be fully open (it drops down in the rear when open). You can also see I need to add a notch for the USB and the power cord.
Notch complete:
I am taking vacation on W, TH and F this week so I will have a long 5 day weekend to make more progress.
Making good progress Fieroguru. I find it funny that I know a guy that hated his Corvette seats so much that he installed Fiero seats in his Corvette because he found them more comfortable. What were the reasons you wanted different seats? Just curious...
[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 02-17-2013).]
I was into C4 Vettes long before I got into Fieros, and I loved the C4 seats. So when I did the RamJet swap in 2005 I put these same C4 seats into that car and when I retired that car, I kept the seats for this one. The only issue with the seats is you "sit in them" not on them, so you need a narrow hips.
Put the coolant in today and was able to idle the engine for about 30 minutes. The lifter chatter calmed down, but I think either the alternator or water pump is squeaking...
Got a new code the other day P1915 - transmission range not in P/N at engine start. Since I wired the TCM to see D4 all the time, this isn't a surprise. However, this DCT isn't listed under the engine codes and is a TCM code. The issue is currently HP Tuners doesn't have any TCM DCT's listed, so I can't turn this one off.
I wired the TCM to think it was in D all the time because I didn't want to hassle with a bunch of switches to make it change from P/N to D, but since I can't turn off P1915, I took another look:
There are 4 Range signals, A, B, C, & P and they are either open or wired to ground to determine the range selection. Signal P is always open for every gear and how it is currently wired, so no change needed. Signal A & B are at the same state for N and D, so no change is needed. Signal C needs to be Open for N and Grounded for D. It is currently grounded and I need a way to break the circuit by pressing the clutch pedal. The Fiero cruise switch on the clutch pedal has a 2 terminal end that has continuity between the terminals when the clutch pedal is released and it breaks the signal when the clutch pedal is pressed. By wiring one terminal to ground and running a wire from the 2nd one back to the TCM for Range Signal C, the TCM will see N when the clutch is pressed/started and D at all other times.
This switch will also allow me to play with "no lift shift"
The oil bypass plate (that I drilled for the fiero oil sender) has been leaking since startup. I remove the plate and it was the gasket leaking. New felpro gasket is on its way... thinking about taking Vacation from work next week to put a major dent in getting this thing drivable (far from done, just drivable so I can start tuning).
You always have some of the best diagrams- Do you have a diagram of the 4t65e shift solenoids? What I need mainly is the color of wires in the transmission harness for Solenoids A & B on the 12v NEG side, plus the TCC Solenoid 12v NEG side and the Line Pressure PWM 12V positive.......
Going into overdrive (no-pun) on my LS4 swap.......
[This message has been edited by diabloroadster (edited 02-21-2013).]
And he's always incredibly helpful (and as you can see from his reply), prompt. On top of his work and his own swap, I don't know how he finds the time. His patience is outstanding, I have dozens of PMs (some of considerable length, covering multiple topics) saved from over the past few years.
(sorry for going off topic, just seemed like a good place to pay FieroGuru some much deserved respect).
Here are the transmission wiring details (sorry for the orientation, photobucket isn't letting me save the pictures once I turn them the right way):
I don't recommend just using just the wire color, but use it in conjunction with the pin location at the connector for confirmation you have the right wire.
And he's always incredibly helpful (and as you can see from his reply), prompt. On top of his work and his own swap, I don't know how he finds the time. His patience is outstanding, I have dozens of PMs (some of considerable length, covering multiple topics) saved from over the past few years.
(sorry for going off topic, just seemed like a good place to pay FieroGuru some much deserved respect).
I completely agree, Fieroguru has helped me so much..... Just cant say enough about him.
Have you looked into the TB and noticed that the throtle blade does not rest at a 90*? It looks like it may be at a 80-85* angle and the air passege thru the TB has several bumps or restrictions? This makes me wonder if a porting job will help flow?
Have you looked into the TB and noticed that the throtle blade does not rest at a 90*? It looks like it may be at a 80-85* angle and the air passege thru the TB has several bumps or restrictions? This makes me wonder if a porting job will help flow?
On a 90mm throttle body, the obstruction of the cross shaft restricts 15% of the air flow through the throttle body, so opening the throttle body any further results in zero increase in air flow. Most DBW throttle bodies therefore stop opening once they have reached peak air flow, which is less than 90 degrees.
Porting on the DBW throttle bodies is best left to the professionals. There is no IAC, just blade control for idle control. If you port too much or significantly alter the air flow in the idle blade positions then you will have idle and tip in drivability issues that can't be tuned out (not much adjustment in the throttle control available within the tuning package)
On a 90mm throttle body, the obstruction of the cross shaft restricts 15% of the air flow through the throttle body, so opening the throttle body any further results in zero increase in air flow. Most DBW throttle bodies therefore stop opening once they have reached peak air flow, which is less than 90 degrees.
Porting on the DBW throttle bodies is best left to the professionals. There is no IAC, just blade control for idle control. If you port too much or significantly alter the air flow in the idle blade positions then you will have idle and tip in drivability issues that can't be tuned out (not much adjustment in the throttle control available within the tuning package)
Originally posted by Rickady88GT: So thinning the shaft would be a Port Job?
Yes, you could thin the throttle shaft without risk of doing much wrong. Porting the throttle body around the blade should be left to the pros who can do it without screwing up the idle control.
Here is the fully welded laptop stand (the braces are 5/16" brake line):
While waiting for the springs I was setting everything up on the table for the rear suspension:
Since the springs are now on backorder and won't be here for a couple weeks, I went ahead and started putting things together using the short/stiff springs that came with the eBay coilover kit... they will work till the right ones show up. The passenger side is mostly assembled except for the brakes. Still waiting on the braided stainless lines to finish this side up.
The Driver side I couldn't make much progress as I am waiting for the Corsica CV boot to arrive. Not sure what happened to it, but my guess is it was pitched in the trash during the move... I did install the driver side strut so I could get a good picture of the finished engine bay (excuse the dirty decklid):
Tops of the struts (relocated inboard 1"):
Clearance of the top of the strut with the flipped bushing plate to the decklid:
Clearance between top of engine and bottom of decklid (no decklid notching needed on either side):
Here is a neat little mod... I shortened the hood support by 3" at the base, used the top bracket for the base, then fabbed up a new upper bracket for use in the rear:
Decklid closed:
Base mounted to the trunk wall:
I had a friend of a friend who rebuilds wrecks for a living come over to give me an estimate on having the car painted (panel off, I will take everything to him and assemble the car once done). Color is Voo Doo Blue from the FJ Cruiser... hopefully the price is within range, or I will have to paint it myself and I don't really have the patience for body work.
The Sara booked our hotel for the 30th, we are not staying at the host hotel due to needing a 2 bedroom suite so the girls can be put to bed at 8PM and Sara and I can stay up later. So we will be staying at the Residence Inn that is less than 1 mile away. I will plan to keeping the car at the host hotel and we can use the family car to run around in.
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 02-23-2013).]
So I can drive this car without having to purchase the rest of the wheels and 4 new tires, I modified the 4 brake calipers to allow use of my 13" brake kit under the 16x7 wheels I currently have. The square boss on top needs to be milled down 1/8" so it will clear the inside of the wheel:
Then I removed the sliders and cleaned/lubed them up and reassembled.
Caliper adapter bracket installed:
Rotor, caliper and pads installed:
Tucked behind the 16x7 wheel... very, very tight!
Here is a picture of Rodney's zero lash sway bar links:
All the rest of the missing parts should be here next week, so if work cooperates maybe next weekend the fiero will leave the garage under its own power for the first time in over 2 years....
Would you be able to have an AC hose made for me? I went by Napa in town and I got a store that is full of kids. They know scawt.
That wouldn't be practical at this point. I don't have any of the fiero chassis ends, or spares of the LS4 compressor end. Even with those, I had to mock up the hose to ensure it cleared everything, had the right amount of slack and that the ends were properly phased to each other so they bolt down smoothly. I didn't make a jog for mine, so I would have to remove mine to produce another set... just too much of a hassle at this point.
You should be able to find a local shop that specialized in A/C conversions/repairs or engine swaps and have them make you a hose. If you can't find someone local, then you might try FieroKing since he has done a couple of these swaps or DarthFiero as he has done one as well and preparing to do another one.
The driver side tripod boot showed up today, so I finished assembling the axle and have the DS rear suspension assembled/torqued and camber set... just need the braided stainless lines and the car could be sitting on its wheels for once.
Im needing some a/c hoses made also, I know a guy here in Austin that has the dies/tools/or whatever vodoo thing that crimps the hoses together. But I have to hunt him down.....
Looking good Guru - the engine bay is very clean - can't wait to hear about the first drive. Someone needs to get a pic of your face as you roll back into the driveway!
[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 02-26-2013).]
Im needing some a/c hoses made also, I know a guy here in Austin that has the dies/tools/or whatever vodoo thing that crimps the hoses together. But I have to hunt him down.....
Sounds good, If I find anything here I will let you know also. I also sent a PM to FieroKing.
The front is now lowered (front spring cut 1"), the bumpstops trimmed 1 1/4", Koni shocks installed, Rodney's zero lash rod ends installed, my 13" brake kit installed along with braided stainless hoses (I will be revisiting the front to clean it up once the car is running/tuned and while the body panels are off being painted).
Got the brakes bled (but I need to do it again as there still is some air in them) and the alignment done then took the LS4/F40 Fiero out for a drive down a couple of streets within the subdivision!
Then I had it parked in the driveway doing the 2 hr idle test (I let the engine idle for 2 hrs constant to verify coolant system, fan action, etc)... well there is a reason I do this test, it is so any issue will happen while it is parked in the drive. One of the radiator hoses decided to come off and dump antifreeze on the driveway... so that ended my fun for the day.
The squealing from a bad bearing is really getting annoying. Since the coolant system is mostly empty (water pump inlet hose is the one that came off), I went ahead and ordered a new A/C Delco water pump with a cast iron impeller (vs. spot welded sheet metal) and it should be here Tuesday.
During my drive I noticed that the Tach and Speedo are inoperable (temp and oil pressure work). Both work in the scan tool, so its and issue between the ECM and gauges. Both of these I wired up at the pin locations used in the TBSS/CTSV E67 applications hoping the signal was there, just not used in the LS4 calibration. I still need to test adding a 12V signal booster to the tach, but I might need to run a Dakota Digital speedo converter for the factory gauge (and keep the VSS going directly to the ECM for it).
It has been a while since I drove a stick, and the F40 gear spacing will take some getting used to.
Good news is the clutch is easy to modulate and chatter free!
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 03-03-2013).]
During my drive I noticed that the Tach and Speedo are inoperable (temp and oil pressure work). Both work in the scan tool, so its and issue between the ECM and gauges. Both of these I wired up at the pin locations used in the TBSS/CTSV E67 applications hoping the signal was there, just not used in the LS4 calibration. I still need to test adding a 12V signal booster to the tach, but I might need to run a Dakota Digital speedo converter for the factory gauge (and keep the VSS going directly to the ECM for it).
Good news is the clutch is easy to modulate and chatter free!
I not certain but I think the ecm is sending a 5v pulse and the Fiero needs a 12v pulse.
this may work
congrats on the clutch , always nice to build something no one has done before and it work !
I had 2 things wrong. First within the calibration: Engine/Tach Output/Tach Type: you have 3 choices. Serial (which is what the LS4 uses), Frequency (which is what the TBSS uses) and Crank (which is what the CTSV uses). I had set it to frequency, but when I added the booster circuit the tach still didn't move. So I switched it to Crank and with the booster circuit the tach sprang to life (I still need to calibrate it for V8 vs V6). Here is the booster circuit that I found used on the LS1's and appear to work on the E67 as well:
I don't know if the Speedo is fixed yet, but I found an issue in the calibration setting for it as well. Under Speedo/Vehicle Speed Output, Output Source: you have 3 settings again. Disabled (which is what the LS4 used, and where I still had it), RepTOS and Serial. I doubt having the VSS output signal disabled was correct, but still don't know if RepTOS or Serial will allow it to work with the normal speedo buffer circuit. I have it set to RepTOS now.
While I was going to do a reflash anyway, I went ahead and turned off Dynamic Airflow (speed density) and DFCO so I can run MAF only and start working on the MAF tune. Once I get the MAF dialed in, then I can turn it off and work on tuning Dynamic Airflow using the equation coefficients.
Last night I removed the coolant tube and added 4 tach welds at the ends to build up the area and prevent the hose/clamp from sliding off the end. Also removed the water pump. Hoping the new one arrives in the next day or two. I would like to be able to do more testing and drive the car more this weekend once it warms up.
A few posts back you commented on how pleased you were with your clutch and how it was performing. You mentioned that it is a Spec 4+ (Ford Ranger 4.0). Curious, I went to the the Spec site and could not find a 4+. Did they do a special for you? Perhaps their site is not up to date. Still curious.
A few posts back you commented on how pleased you were with your clutch and how it was performing. You mentioned that it is a Spec 4+ (Ford Ranger 4.0). Curious, I went to the the Spec site and could not find a 4+. Did they do a special for you? Perhaps their site is not up to date. Still curious.
Ken
First thing to keep in mind is that the pressure plate bolt pattern on this clutch is not the same as the fiero. Once I found the clutch, I designed the flywheel around it to get the proper diameter/depth and pressure plate pattern. The clutch is an off the shelf item from Spec, but it isn't normally listed. This flywheel/clutch combo is within 1 lb of the stock fiero V6 flywheel/clutch combo. The part # is shown below:
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:
The clutch arrived today! The list price was $639, but I was able to get it for $575 shipped through LMPerformance.com. This is the 2nd most expensive part for this swap ($749 for the Camshaft kit was #1) excluding the original purchase price the engine...
The clutch disk measures at 9 13/16" at the friction material (listed as a 10" clutch) and is one of the largest diameter clutches you can get for this application w/o mixing/matching disks and pressure plates or getting into some trick self adjusting pressure plates.
It weighs in at 16.52 lbs on the wife's 30 lb postal scales, so the combined flywheel/clutch/pressure plate will be 27.7lbs... which is about 15 lbs lighter (and the flywheel about 1" smaller diameter) than my old SBC flywheel/clutch/pressure plate setup or about 35% lighter... that should help free up some more whp!
The other bit of good news is I might have my 4T65E-HD sold for $650 and that should offset the hit to the wallet from the clutch.
I removed the long coolant pipe this evening to weld the barbs on it to ensure no more hoses come loose.
While I had both coolant tubes out, I went ahead and removed the alternator to have it rebuilt locally for piece of mind. Removal of the alternator requires removing the short coolant pipe, loosening the long coolant pipe and rocking the cradle back. I knew space was tight and rocking the cradle back probably would be needed, so I designed everything in the swap to make that a simple process. remove the 4 bolts from the TB to Intake, remove the oil fill neck from the rear valve cover, remove the 2 rear cradle bolts. Everything else has plenty of slack to accommodate the rear of the cradle dropping about 12".
I find it funny that I know a guy that hated his Corvette seats so much that he installed Fiero seats in his Corvette because he found them more comfortable. What were the reasons you wanted different seats? Just curious... 
