We could not get the VDO tach to work with or without the Dakota Digital module. It would cut off at about 5200 RPM and then start reading again below 5200 RPM. I sent the instrument cluster back to Fieroking along with the ECM and the verdict was that the VDO gauge just isn't compatable. We instead went with a Speedhut Revolution 4" tach which works perfectly even without the Dakota Module. I wanted the two main gauges to match so we also went with the Revolution 4 in. Metric 260km/h Programable Speedometer (w/peak).
Joe got them mounted in the stock cluster and I think they look like they belong there.
These units are only 1" deep and the etire gaule minus the lens and ring were installed:
The feeds and lighting were connected to the stock circuits:
I haven't tried them our yet as the ECM fuel trables were being modified as I was running a bit rich. Once I have the ECM back in and everything put back together I'll take her for a spin!
Received my new glovebox and installed it today from Mike (TXGOOD). Excellent product and highly recommended. it is a real enhancement tot he stock dash in my opinion.
We could not get the VDO tach to work with or without the Dakota Digital module. It would cut off at about 5200 RPM and then start reading again below 5200 RPM. I sent the instrument cluster back to Fieroking along with the ECM and the verdict was that the VDO gauge just isn't compatable. We instead went with a Speedhut Revolution 4" tach which works perfectly even without the Dakota Module. I wanted the two main gauges to match so we also went with the Revolution 4 in. Metric 260km/h Programable Speedometer (w/peak).
. . .
Your Tach is actually not a Revolution series, but a Legacy series. Sorry, I couldn't resist.
[This message has been edited by cyrus888 (edited 05-20-2012).]
Easily one of the cleanest 88's in the entire planet. Always in awe of your ride Nolan.
Stopped by Joe's for a few hours yesterday to help him disassemble his next project, and for conversation. I have heard that your guages are all situated, and that happiness has found ya.
I just installed my new LED lighting package from TLG Automotive. Top notch products that really bring the interior lighting out of the 80's into the current century. I really like it. Here's a somewhat blurry picture (too lazy to get out the tripod...)
Nolan
PS, take that Jeff
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-01-2012).]
I get more comments about the TLG interior lighting than just about anything else. It REALLY does bring our little wonders into the 21st century. Looks great Nolan!
I'm really enjoying my car and it looks like the few little post swap wrinkles are ironed out. I'm having fun driving and planning my remaining mods. For example I have a large package on the way. I'll give you a hint, they have to fit over these:
Of course I am only joking.... Those look sweet... That has got to be my next upgrade.. In fact Joe has the front brackets for the LeBaron upgrade... I just need to get the rest of the stuff... anyone selling? (sneaky thread hijack found here)
You keep me going my friend... Really looking forward to seeing you in August.... Karla is showing her own car this year!! Woo Hoo!
Installed the Fiero Store "Fiero GT" 3rd tail light mask along with the TLG level 2 LED light kit:
Looks better in person, not as fuzzy as in the picture.
Also received a package from 1010tires.com that my trusty shop tech Maximus is checking out:
I absolutly needed new wheels, really, how else could I install the Fieroguru 13" brake kit? I love my wife!
Here's the car up on stands with the zinc plated stock size rotors:
Goodies just waiting patiently to be installed:
And a comparison of the stock size vs. the new 13" rotors:
New brakes on:
I hit a bit of a snag when installing the new wheels. On the rears, the axel "Bolt" that goes through the hub actually was too long for the center cap on the new wheels!
So I had to trim off the bolt ends about 1/4? I was a little concerned as the axel ends/splines are harder steel but it was surprisingly easy just using a hacksaw with 18 TPI Bi-metal blades:
I also painted the exposed ends with rust paint for some degree of rust protection. Then it was time for the new wheels. These are Tenzo R Type M Version 2 wheels, black with machined centers and lip. 17x7 5-100/5-114.3 ET42 for the front and 18x8 5-100/5-114.3 ET37 for the rears. The tires are 215/45ZR17 91W Hankook Ventus V4 ES H105 front and 245/40ZR18 97W Hankook Ventus V4 ES H105 for the rears. I know that there is a lot of debate about what offsets to use on 88's but after a fait bit of research, angziety and more research I settled on these. I'm quite happy with the results:
And for those who would like to see how much further they stick out from stock, first the front then the rear:
Personally, I can`t really see that they stick out very much further.
Thanks Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-23-2012).]
I thought that your car looked like like it was completely finished at the Fierofest. Do you see the end in sight or do you plan on it being an endless project? My car has so much unfinished/upgrades to be done that I actually wonder if it will be done before I am. Anyway, looking good!
I thought that your car looked like like it was completely finished at the Fierofest. Do you see the end in sight or do you plan on it being an endless project? My car has so much unfinished/upgrades to be done that I actually wonder if it will be done before I am. Anyway, looking good!
Thanks! In the interest of self preservation I don't think it will be an endless project.... There are still a few things in the works, mostly small tweaks here and there.
I participated in a car show today along with four other members from the CFOG club. Nice day although there was some rain. The show had some 200+ cars in it with 6 classes for judging: Hot Rod, Classic American Muscle, New American Muscle, Trucks, Bikes and Special Interest.
The Fieros were in the Special Interest class, which included some very custom vehicles, a Cobra, 3 Ferraris, a couple of Porches, a Lotus, Delorean, Nissan GTR, and a number of other imports etc. Imagine my surprise when I received the 1st Place trophey!
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 07-01-2012).]
I really like the gauges. Actually I really like the whole car. Very clean and in the best color out there.
------------------ My Pontiac Garage _________________ -2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT-12.71@107.92mph -1990 Pontiac ASC/Mclaren Turbo Grand Prix--15.63@86.38mph -1996 Pontiac Grand Prix SE-17.32@80.23mph 1984 Pontiac Fiero-SLOW
Sorry that I won't be able to come down to the Fiero Fest this year, I was looking forward to it. Please give my best to everyone and I hope you all have a great time.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 07-20-2012).]
I decided to upgrade my radiator fan to a high volume aftermarket fan. I don't need the extra cooling CFM that the aftermarket fan produces, as my 3.4 DOHC seems to sit more or less around the midpoint on the temerature gauge, but the look of the stock fan is a little on the dated side. The extra air flow is a bonus though!
The local speed shop that I went to didn't have the Proform Fan that Fierosound used so here's the 16" fan that I bought:
Here's the new fan with the stock fan and shroud:
To install the new fan the stock fan supports have to be cut at the shroud. I cut them so that there was some left over raised plastic that sat proud of the top of the shroud discharge ring. These bits will be sanded down flush after the fan supports are removed. Here the supports have been cut with a cutoff disc in the Dremel and the assembly removed:
The outside diameter of the aftermarket fan ring is just shlightly smaller that the inside of the stock fan ring. The two will fit in like they were made for each other. There are 4 mounting bracket points on the outside of the new fan that need to be removed:
I did this using and anglr grinder, sander and hand file:
Almost all of the marks will be hidden by the shroud once the new fan is in place.
I also wanted to trim the left over support base on the shroud to have a more rounded look. I used the sanding drum in my Dremel for this:
Then I painted the shroud:
To assemble, I ran a bead of poly-urethane around the outside of the new fan ring:
Then the shroud was placed over the fan and 4 small self tapping screws secured it together. I painted the few spots that needed some touch up on the new fan ring and the screws. Here it is installed:
Easy to do, and it`s an improvement over the looks of the stock fan for sure!
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 08-25-2012).]
There is my nest in the back ground...lol ;-) My car was right next to Nolan's, so got to know him a little...cool guy... and really cool, beautiful, gorgeous GT!
Ok, Things with my new company are progressing well so it's time to do some interior upgrades.
Currently my interior looks like this:
Too much grey 'me thinks. So I've ordered some new stuff and have stripped much of the interior.
Carpet out:
While everything is out I want to add in some sound abatement. My 3.4 DOHC is, well, it's loud. Not too loud but a little bit quieter cabin would be nice. I have some sound deadender left over from my old 67 GT build a numbers of years ago, not enough for the whole car but enough for the fire wall.
My plan is to fully do both sides of the cabin so I needed to get some more materials. I had planned on using Resisto, which is a actually a peel and stick roofing product that Fierosound used in his Indy build with success. Here's a shot if his Indy from his build thread:
After trips to four different hardware store to no avail I came to the conclusion that this stuff must be made from unobtainium and gave up. I decided to go with the real stuff and picked up 48 sq. ft. of Dynamat Xtreme, what the heck, it's for my baby...
Got the stuff home and had at her:
Tomorrow I think I'll pull out the trunk seal and carpet. I Just have to decide how far I'm going to go with eliminating the grey colour. I'm not sure I want to pull the head liner etc.
I stripped the trunk today, She looks nice and clean:
I also pulled off a few miscellaneous items out of the interior, not much really. I think I'm mostly trying to make-up my mind how far along I want to go with this. My concern with painting the interior is the wear ability and scratch resistance on the trim, in particular the pieces along the door sill and the rear sides where the seat belt anchors attach and rotate. I'm thinking these will be high wear spots....paint is thin. I remember seeing a thread where someone covered the trim in vinyl, I'll have to see if I can dig it up.
While I'm thinking about how I'm going to do the trim I figured I'd have a look at separating the existing carpet underlay. On 88 Fiero's the underlay is a foam moulded to the underside of the carpet rather than separate jute underlay used on the earlier models. Here's a couple of pictures of the underside of the stock carpet:
This foam is surprisingly easy to peel off of the rubberized backing on the carpet:
It still has to be carefully separated as it will tear where it's thin and there are spots where it adheres stronger to the carpet. I used a sharpened putty knife that I have to work it free using small jabbing motions along the carpet surface:
The funny thing is that while doing this I was reminded of a face lift procedure I saw an a show called "The Operation". The doctor used his hand in a similar fashion to separate the patients skin from the supporting tissue... I know, I'm crazy.
Here's the stripped carpet:
And the peeled underlay:
One down and one to go.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 04-27-2014).]
Continuing on with some things that I did earlier this week and today. I cleaned the majority of the glue and insulation off of the backside of the B pillar trims. Pain in the butt however needed al I'll line them with dynamat later on:
Now all 6 door trim pieces and the dash bezels are off to the hydrographics shop.
Next I pulled off the door panels:
Then the map pockets were next. The "nuts" holding them on are a a stamped steel nut/washer. These are on in a way that I would think was backwards with the nut portion facing down into the insulation which leaves a hex shaped depression with the bolt up through the centre:
I can only assume that the factory uses a special tool to install these, my solution was to use a pair of snap ring plyers inserted into the depression and exerting pressure on two opposing corners in site the hex and turn. A bit clumsy but workable:
Success:
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-03-2014).]
Next came removing the door panel carpet. There are a few ways to do this. First you can use started fluid or a number of other fluids but this doesn't appeal to me. So I used a heat gun which has also been recommended. You have to be careful to not overheat when you are working on the carpet near the upper vinyl section though. Basically just apply some heat to warm up the carpet and the glue below and it will pull off with some effort. The glue is easily removable from the panel once warmed.
Then the headline came out of the car. I was disappointed that the headliner itself was broken into three pieces, I wasn't expecting that on a low mileage car:
I figured I might as well try an salvage it so I removed the headliner material which left behind some of the foam but that is easily removable with a soft wire brush.
Then taped the 3 pieces together with duct tape as I've seen other do:
Hmmm not to sure this is going to work but I continued. Traced out the headliner on the back of the vinyl and used contact cement as the adhesive:
Then used a piece of cardboard to cover most of the headliner so that I would only have to work a bit of the vinyl at one time:
The end result was.... Meh. The tape could be seen though the vinyl and the whole assembly was pretty flimsy. A fiberglass headliner is now on it's way from V8 Archie Oh well, let's call it a practice run.
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-03-2014).]
Also getting ready to pull the dash. After removing the radio, HVAC controls etc. I could see that the console skeleton is in pretty bad shape with cracked screw bosses and structural damage. Pulled her out:
Fortunately I purchased an intact skeleton a couple of years back, just needs to be cleaned up:
The stereo that I'm using is a newer unit out of a Trans Am, while the skeleton is out I figured I would relocate the rear radio support bracket to suit the non-stock radio. Installed the unit into the skeleton, bored out the centre hole a bit and drilled new mounting holes for the bracket. Reattached it with pop rivets and a touch of paint: