No luck starting it today. I still need the coolant tee for the passenger side so hook up the heater core return to the main line. I hasn't come in yet. I still have to change the trans fluid filter and fill it. I still have to pull the Tach wire at the PCM, I guess it goes only the the Tach. It still doesn't have an exhaust but I still want to start it at least with out it. That should be here tomorrow. Oh and make the axles.
They say the Devil is in the details. So true. Sometimes you think you are so close when in reality all these little things keep delaying you. At least is my case. Keep on!
As it turns out the Gear selection is backwards from a TH125C and a 4T60. A special bracket has to be made. I'm just gonna run it for now with the shift selector operating backwards. I was trying to start it in 1st.
No problem, Let me know how well it drives. If you can get a scanner to monitor fuel trims, KR, etc. I can better tune your car for max MPG, and/or performance or if you add any performance goodies such as IC, or N* TB.
I found that i need to move the motor mounts to the passenger side 1/2' to make the axles equal length. This would allow two 86 4 speed drivers side axle shafts and outer CV to be plug and play into the 4T65EHD tulips. Does that sound right? this is my pulley clearance to the hood as it is, almost even. Whats yours?
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-09-2011).]
I'm trying to engineer the axle setup needed for this swap. I figured there's so many people doing the swap that it would already be figured out. So many axle posts are really vague, misleading or over complicated. Keep in mind this is for the every day swap. Modding, you're on your own. My point is that the geometry is the same regardless of how up or down the motor / trans is mounted or suspension for that matter. With the trans centered between the hubs the longest allowable axle length would be determined by the hubs at level with the tripots. Centering the trans would establish two identical axles needed for both sides. I still have to prove it but it looks like 2 manual drivers side axles with the 4T65EHD tripots would work.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-09-2011).]
I'm trying to engineer the axle setup needed for this swap. I figured there's so many people doing the swap that it would already be figured out. So many axle posts are really vague, misleading or over complicated. My point is that the geometry is the same regardless of how up or down the motor / trans is mounted or suspension for that matter. With the trans centered between the hubs the longest allowable axle length would be determined by the hubs at level with the tripots. Centering the trans would establish two identical axles needed for both sides. I still have to prove it but it looks like 2 manual drivers side axles with the 4T65EHD tripots would work.
looking forward to the answer you engineer up for when i do it
2 Fiero Manual Driver Side axles will work when i center up Tripots to the hubs. it has to move to the passenger side 1/2". (Fiero manual driver side axles are the same length and make up as Beretta and Cavalier driver side axles , I THINK, I STILL HAVE TO CHECK IT OUT.)
Edit; With the (GTP) Tripots centered that leaves 3/4" clearance in the bottom of the (GTP} tripots with a Fiero driver side manual axle on each side. FYI a 91 Caddy Deville driver side inner axle (2.5" between the boots.) is 14.5" just like the Fiero manual driver side inner axle and can be used to build a correct length axle.
The position of the engine at this point will not allow the GTP stock dogbone brace to line up, Youll have to make a left side brace like the WCF brace or order theirs.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-25-2011).]
I noticed that your fuel rail is in the stock position. Why not flip it around so the fuel hoses are not hanging over your serpentine belt. Just thinking safety.
I moved the motor and trans to the passenger side 1/2" The trans is now centered between the hubs. This allows for 2 driver side manual axles to fit between the hubs. 3/4" is left in the bottom of the tulips at full compression. with the struts fully extended there is no binding in the tulips.
It aint pretty but its done, my first time mig welding, not bad if I do say so my self.
Its a true 3" exhaust with 2.5" out of the Flowtech Afterburner muffler. I tried to leave room for a Inter-cooler eventually. Thats why I decided to cut the trunk out.
I noticed that my speedo is stuck on 120MPH. (even with the key off.) I did this for the speedo mod. Edit; I did a search for "stuck on 120" and it apears to a common problem and fixes itself with driving. I have no idea how long this car has been laid up, I bought it as a non runner.
And I have no Tach reading. Im pretty sure i hooked the ICM white wire t o C500 C3.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-25-2011).]
i'll be interested in seeing what the final price is on the engine swop. the engine looks great and the car looks to be in great shape too. keep the pictures coming great job. thanks glbottoms
It aint pretty but its done, my first time mig welding, not bad if I do say so my self. ..
Its a true 3" exhaust with 2.5" out of the Flowtech Afterburner muffler. I tried to leave room for a Inter-cooler eventually. Thats why I decided to cut the trunk out.
That's a pretty darn nice system. I need to build one like that but without cutting the trunk. Also not still sure if I will keep the trumpets.
The muffler was 65.00 plus shipping. The 3-3" elbows, flex joint, and 2-2.5" X12" 90deg bends were $140.00. I am keep a tally on the costs and will write some thing up when i get it on the road. Thanks guys.
The cooling temp, voltage, gas and oil pressure gauges all work.
Edit; I didn't remove the clutch switch, you have to push the clutch pedal in to start it. Is there anything i have to change in the car wiring?
At the clutch pedal - the weird switch with the long thing that slides through it - there is a fat purple wire and a fat yellow wire on it. Connect the two.
I noticed that my speedo is stuck on 120MPH. (even with the key off.) I did this for the speedo mod. Edit; I did a search for "stuck on 120" and it apears to a common problem and fixes itself with driving. I have no idea how long this car has been laid up, I bought it as a non runner.
And I have no Tach reading. Im pretty sure i hooked the ICM white wire t o C500 C3.
Do the tach / speedo twitch/move at all when you turn the key on? If not, perhaps you have no power to the dash gauges. If the speedo is twitching/moving at all you can manually push the needle back to the middle of it's movement and see what happens.
I found the Tach problem. There are two white wires int the ICM connector, pin A and E. I ran pin A into the C500 C3. A is the ignition control and I was also getting an intermittent P1351 DTC which explains that. Pin E is probably C1-54 which I had removed from the connector before I started the car because some how i thought was paralled in with C500 C3. Brain fart. I completely wired the car in two all nighters. so far thats the only mistake i've found.
Well I got the Tach working and the P1351 (ignition control circuit high voltage) code straightened out. I ran the ignition control wire, ICM pin A, to, C500 C-3 (Tach input). I reconnected it to C1-54. I have no idea what i did with the Tach wire so I just ran a new one from ICM pin E , to, C500 C-3. All better now.
I still have to repack the axles with new grease and put the brakes on. I bought Grand Am calipers and rotors for the rear. Eventually I will do the S-10 booster upgrade. I think its almost ready to run besides putting the body panels back on. I probably won't though since its so late in the season, I can paint it this winter.
I finally put the axles together and in the car last night, what a stinky mess. I think I have a hangover from all the solvent. I'm gonna try to get the brakes on it this weekend and maybe take it around the block with the body off for a test run before I lay it up for the winter.
My Formula blew a timing cover/water pump gasket so I've been trying to get that back together too. I almost spent my self into the poor house getting the GT running.
Once I get it out for a test drive and actually motorvating under its own power, then I will do the cost analysis and post it. I think I did OK but then there was a lot of little stuff here and there.
Originally posted by hercimer01: I tried but the hold downs for the fuel rail are in different locations when you swap it around. How would you anchor it down?
I don't know about turning it around, but I cut that little center bracket so that I could use a pipe bender to point my lines towards the firewall of the car like this. Hope to get it in the car this weekend.
Thanks! I was hoping to be done by now. I ran into Murphys' Law lately. My air compressor crapped out. But I did come across a 60 gal. Ingersoll if I can get it for the right price. It is next to new. I'll need a good one for the paint.
Man I love craigslist, $200.00 cash. Now i'm back in business. Edit: Ingersoll Rand had really crappy reviews, Campbell Hausefeld had good reviews. Its a 6HP single stroke.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-09-2011).]
: Its Alive!!
thanks for the computer!
