I was looking at this type of mount when I did my 3800SC swap, but ultimately decided not to because I kept my EGR (which is in the way )AND I was concerned about if the trunk wall is strong enough in this location to support the mount. I know there is a brace/support behind it, but where people mount the dog-bone on the passenger side, it ties into the bracket by the strut mount structure and the trunk wall - which appears to me to be much stronger. I would be particularly worried during hard launches. Has anyone had this style/location mount for a fairly long period of time that can report back on how it held up? I am not trying to detract in anyway from the good looking mount that you have made, I am just trying to see if anyone can confirm from experience if this location will ultimately hold up or not???
------------------ 87 Formula Clone, 3800SC, 3.4 pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, 12.98 at 103.4 1/4 mile, Regal GS Gauge Cluster.
darkhorizon seems to be experienced with special setups and high horsepower. That's why i referred to DH earlier for approval. I do plan on modifying the passenger side dog bone bracket on the engine so that it lines back up to the original dogbone brace on the trunk wall. That will give me dual dogbones.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-12-2011).]
Originally posted by DimeMachine: AND I was concerned about if the trunk wall is strong enough in this location to support the mount.
It isn't. I was able to destroy the trunk wall in the stock location without the triangulation piece. Bracing in the middle of the trunk wall will yield an even weaker objective to warp/bend.
Ok so tried bleeding the new brakes and the lines just ended up exploding. The car has been out of commission for along time. I was trying to do the CASE learn on the PCM and the Snap On Solus pro kept telling me the brake is not set. I checked the TCC voltage into the PCM (C1-30, C203-P) off of the brake switch and it doesn't go away with the brakes applied. Also my brake lites don't work. The wiring pinouts have been kind of vague on the car wiring required. My car was manual. So I guess I feel as if im missing something in the manual to auto conversion.
EDIT: The contacts in the brake switch are kind of trashed "erratic contact" so im cleaning them up. The center contact "pin B orange wire" feeds "pin A white wire" and "pin C blue wire" The orange wire is 20A fused and the blue wire feeds the brake lites.
Brake pedal not applied. Brake pedal applied.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-13-2011).]
Cleaning the contacts fixed the brake lites. So how do I overcome the lack of a TCC switch? Am I going to have to add wiring to the car side for the TCC? I will be adding cruise to this also. It did not originally come with it. I assume thats another switch on the pedal with more wiring?
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-13-2011).]
It isn't. I was able to destroy the trunk wall in the stock location without the triangulation piece. Bracing in the middle of the trunk wall will yield an even weaker objective to warp/bend.
Originally posted by hercimer01: How many horsepower were you running?
Horsepower is completely irrelevant, torque is what breaks things. It was a stock L67 behind a Getrag 5 speed. Even with your 4T65, the trunk wall will bend with time. If you use it in conjunction with the stock location dogbone, you'll be alright. For those who are considering using only a center trunk mount, be assured the trunk will shrink.
I found this tonight at LKQ. Brakes and TCC all in one. Its from a 90 Olds Delta 88. I just have to splice the upshift lite wire under the dash into the TCC switch, and the other wire to the orange wire of the brake switch. This will hopefully give the PCM proper indication of the brakes so I can do my CASE learn. Edit; It did.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 11-05-2011).]
Horsepower is completely irrelevant, torque is what breaks things. It was a stock L67 behind a Getrag 5 speed. Even with your 4T65, the trunk wall will bend with time. If you use it in conjunction with the stock location dogbone, you'll be alright. For those who are considering using only a center trunk mount, be assured the trunk will shrink.
I centered my trans so I could use two driver side manual axles. That threw the stock dog bone out to the pass side 1/2". I still have to have my brackets welded up and I will have the welder compensate for that.
Did you use a doubler behind the center bracket on the trunk wall? Not to keep it from bending but from tearing.
Ah, Success. I was able to do my Case learn, it was actually CKP relearn on the SnapOn Solus Pro I borrowed. As I was getting it up to temp it sprung a pretty good antifreeze leak under the heater core area under the car. Theres not much rust in this car, but it sat for so long that the little things are giving out. I would rather find this stuff out now than on the road.
I had an extra heater core I grabbed from LKQ a couple of years ago. That's in and removed the brake line from the front to the rear. Maybe i can get that replaced this week sometime.
I replaced the main brake line from the proportioning valve in the front to the tee by the right rear tire. The bubble flare nuts are M14X1.5 with 6mm tubing. P/N BLF-53C-5 at Autozone. I used a metric double flare tool and made fine looking bubble flares with it.
I have a 4K RPM stumble now with no codes. I did a CASE learn with a SnapOn Solus Pro scantool after I installed the PCM. I dont know if it has been doing this all along or just started. I haven't had the car out yet for a hard drive, just around the block. Anyone have any ideas whats causing this?
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-07-2012).]
I have been on the hunt now for a while to come up with a cheap intake solution, and I think I found it. What do you think for $32.00? Edit; the drain pipe ID is 4", the PVC peice is a 3" coupling with an OD of 4"
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-28-2012).]
I drove it the one time in the video but the seat wasn't in, I was sitting on a block of wood so couldn't really open it up. Plus it was the first test run.
I had to do alot of shaping with the epoxy. Now I can fill the minor stuff with filler. I pulled the defrost cover off an old dash I had that was no good. The honeycomb looks great behind the opening. Maybe i can get them primed this weekend.
Got this from gtxbullet, thanks.
