A really amazing job of DIY work ! Very, very impressed.
That gorgeous ride just needs some aftermarket wheels and lowering and it will be a complete stunner.
Thank you very much. I will lower it this winter with the one coil cutout method. Wheels and tires depend on money.
They were having a grudge match gamblers shoot out this weekend so the tickets are cut in half so you can't see the other guys time. They got to run all day, I checked in and parked on the test and tune at 12:30, we didn't get to run till 5:30 after a few sprinkles hi the track. This was the only run I was able to get in and the speed didn't even register right. I'm not sure if I can be sure the time is accurate. I was expecting to get in the 13's. I was running 93 octane, I should have put some 100LL avgas in.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-12-2012).]
What kind of pillar gauges are people running on their L67 motors?
ZZP recommened Aeroforce Intercepter Scan Gauge but I already have Torque Pro running with blue tooth to my SIII.
I am considering the AEM Wideband Failsafe Gauge, But I kind of like the idea of have dedicated gauges for boost and whatnot. Although this gauge does some really nice data logging.
I put in a new fuel pump today just to be on the safe side. EP381 AC Delcco I had an Airtex cheapy in there before.
Edit 6/24/13; I wired the fuel pump with 14 Ga. wire to a new high capacity relay triggered off of the cars fuel pump relay. Edit 4/15/15: I had to rewire the actual pump in the tank itself. The connector at the pump burned up. I soldered 14 gauge wire from the lugs on the pump to the wires in the sending unit.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-19-2015).]
Put my new reprogrammed computer in from ZZP today!
I think this was a mistake. I did no research to see how their product performs. I told them it was for a Fiero swap with an auto trans, no #2 O2 sensor, EGR delete with a 3.4 pulley and 4" intake with a 3" exhaust.
I got it back with a Purge solenoid/ fuel tank pressure DTC and Oil level in pan DTC. Also >1/2 throttle launch sounds like rocks are in my heads.
I Emailed them and they wanted a mod list, I said it was attached to the ECM with the Pre-Order sheet. Now they are not responding to Emails.
I think this was a mistake. I did no research to see how their product performs. I told them it was for a Fiero swap with an auto trans, no #2 O2 sensor, EGR delete with a 3.4 pulley and 4" intake with a 3" exhaust.
I got it back with a Purge solenoid/ fuel tank pressure DTC and Oil level in pan DTC. Also >1/2 throttle launch sounds like rocks are in my heads.
I Emailed them and they wanted a mod list, I said it was attached to the ECM with the Pre-Order sheet. Now they are not responding to Emails.
WTB, DHP Powertuner!
Sorry about that as ZZP is NOT as good with the Fiero specific programming. I was wondering why you felt you needed a new PCM as I will gladly update your original. What other mods did you add? Are you sure it isn't something mechanical that is causing issues, like too much KR due to the smaller pulley. However, if you have a DHP then you could do it yourself in real time and get max performance.
Sorry about that as ZZP is NOT as good with the Fiero specific programming. I was wondering why you felt you needed a new PCM as I will gladly update your original. What other mods did you add? Are you sure it isn't something mechanical that is causing issues, like too much KR due to the smaller pulley. However, if you have a DHP then you could do it yourself in real time and get max performance.
Thanks for your help over in the tech section, I'm glad we got that sorted out. I do kind of want to learn how to Tune the ECM so I am gonna get a PowerTuner.
I had a SnapOn Solus Pro scantoll on it looking at Knock Retard and it stayed at zero when the mystery noise showed up.
I just realized the pulley is a 3.4, I can't remeber what is the smallest i can go for stock.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-13-2013).]
I got it back with a Purge solenoid/ fuel tank pressure DTC and Oil level in pan DTC. Also >1/2 throttle launch sounds like rocks are in my heads.
WTB, DHP Powertuner!
Turns out my SC Coupler went bad when i put their new computer in. They did reply and offered to fix their tune, but they asked if they could see my current computer and how its tuned. I have two computers.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-15-2013).]
I had a Snapon Solus Pro Scan Tool on it when I was taking off trouble shooting the noise. I was watching knock retard and it showed zero under all conditions.
I didn't know it was an 8 rib pulley when I bought it. Do they even make 6? I looked for one and couldn't find one.
I got the same pulley, but I ordered my straight for intense, they sent me a 8-rib too. it's no big deal, but on mine the two ribs on the battery are unused. I don't think they are bothering to make 6-ribs anymore. since the 8 rib version covers both.
P.S. 3.4" is the smallest your "Supposed" to go on a stock motor, but if you have no KR issues and your monitoring KR you can go smaller. especially if your using race gas to compensate. It's just that if you enjoy driving the car allot you may be more inclined to run a slightly larger pulley on pump gas rather than have a car addicted to race fuel.
But at the end of the day the smallest pulley you can run is the smallest you can run W/O KR.
------------------ 1986 SE 3800SC/4t65eHD (12.871@104.96) 1985 GT 3800SC (swap in progress)
[This message has been edited by 1fast2m4 (edited 05-28-2013).]
I think this was a mistake. I did no research to see how their product performs. I told them it was for a Fiero swap with an auto trans, no #2 O2 sensor, EGR delete with a 3.4 pulley and 4" intake with a 3" exhaust.
I got it back with a Purge solenoid/ fuel tank pressure DTC and Oil level in pan DTC. Also >1/2 throttle launch sounds like rocks are in my heads.
I Emailed them and they wanted a mod list, I said it was attached to the ECM with the Pre-Order sheet. Now they are not responding to Emails.
WTB, DHP Powertuner!
I went ahead and bought a DHP PowerTuner. I figured out how to read the PCM, disabled the two DTCs they left on it (one was a purge solenoid and the other was the oil level code).and then reflashed the PCM.
They wanted me to send the computer back to them but I didn't feel like messing around with them due to their less than helpful attitude. They did however ask me to come in for a Dyno tune. I doubt it would be for free but it might be worth it I guess.
Now I still have to change the coupler then I can hit the track finally!
if your running 3.4 on a series III SC and not getting any knock it may be worth more ponies to add timing. But you might want to verify your knock sensors are working.
Back when I did my 3800 I learned the same lesson , ZZP iffy when things go wrong. Intense was great for every transaction and most importantly someone answered the phone when you needed to talk to them.
Nothing to special about the car 1986 SE 3800 series 2 out of a 98 Bonneville ssei trans was from the same car and I've never had them separated. Mods are a Intense 3.4" Pulley, ZZP 1.0 PCM, EGR & EVAP delete, NKG TR55 plugs, 3" single exhaust and for track purposes I run a cheapo 3" intake routed directly to the factory opening in the rear 1/4. I'm also running MickeyThompson ET Street drag radials on the stock 14" fiero rims
I really should update my build tread, as soon as i got it running I stopped taking pictures and updating, been having too much fun. ------------------ 1986 SE 3800SC/4t65eHD (12.871@104.96) 1985 GT 3800SC (swap in progress)
[This message has been edited by 1fast2m4 (edited 05-30-2013).]
I went ahead and bought a DHP PowerTuner. I figured out how to read the PCM, disabled the two DTCs they left on it (one was a purge solenoid and the other was the oil level code).and then reflashed the PCM.
Now I still have to change the coupler then I can hit the track finally!
I'm still getting a growling noise at WOT from the engine with the BBV tied open and SC pulley clamped still. So its not the supercharger.
I am worried that it could be detonation. I went through the DTC fault codes enabled and the knock sensors were disabled in the ECM I had ZZP do, is that right?
I put in new Accel yellow plug wires. I deleted the #2 O2 sensor from the ZZP tune. I did a case relearn, though probably unnecessary. Ran the hell out of it, and no weird noises! YAY!!!
EDIT; I spoke too soon. Its back.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-12-2013).]
The second one was my best. I'm running 15 year old BFG radial TA's. 3.4 pulley. If any one has a suggestion on tuning using the DHP Power Tuner, please help me break into 13 seconds.
I'm not real sure of how to change those but I do want to learn.
For now i'm just doing some basic checks. Here is my dry compression test. 110PSI highest * 15% = 16.5PSI 110 - 16.5 = 93.5 is lowest allowable compression. This means they're all within 15% of each other, in other words. Good.
Unless they are all just low. Whats a good range?
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-12-2013).]
Before I decided to rebuild mine , SC from 1997 Riviera I checked it. It had 175,000 Miles on it and had 150 psi all cylinders, Dry. At 95 ibs , it will just about fire. Any engine I have ever worked on, (been a few) you want between 150-175, low comp maybe 135, High compression engines (11-1) about 200.
Doing it wet brought them all up 10 PSI each. I ran into another mechanic and he said the same thing you said. What were your numbers after you rebuilt it?
I put the car back together. When I did I found the Boost line from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator and the MAP sensor had rotten fittings. So I deleted the BBV, and put all new rubber fittings on the line.
I think that took care of my ailments as far as my times go. The Boost line to the fuel pressure regulator was leaking. I assume that was causing fuel starvation. I can't wait to get it down to the track and try it again!
I'm still not convinced what the cylinder pressure test values should be.
I was just trying to get into mid 13s. I almost made it to 12! The boost line to the fuel pressure regulator and MAP sensor was loose! While I was in there I also deleted the BBV.
[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 08-23-2013).]
I also got a reply back from intense about the cylinder pressures. It looks like a rebuild down the road.
Allen, Those numbers are very low; around 130 psi is acceptable but worn and perfect would be over 150 psi. They are, however, very even meaning there is no broken piston rings or blown gaskets etc. The rings are just very worn.
The Lady I bought the car from let her teenage son drive this Fiero. That is how the motor is blown at only 49,000 miles. He also bent a rim so it wobbles at 12 miles an hour and 70. I have to swap rims, I do like the lace wheels too.
