OK, so I got the new tach.
I modded the housing so it will fit.
I put the 1Meg ohm trimmer pot in place of R14. This tach is the less desirable one because of the face so its not covered as far as I can find. The PC board is different than most covered MODs.

This is mine and how I did it.
Edit: Make sure to run the Tach Gauge Ground wire (black) to the ECM C1 pin 13 MAP ground. I ran mine to the back of the gauge and it showed over 20PSI of boost which is not correct.




Edited because i just tried it and it worked.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-21-2014).]

The needles before and after.



Testors Pactra RC78.

quote Originally posted by hercimer01: I calibrated it with the Torque App. ( there's an app for that LOL)

Can you log Fuel Trim Cell with Torque? I'm doing some tuning and can't find that PID.

I have seen the PIDS for fuel trim on Torque, I would imagine they could be logged.

I'm trying to adjust the boost gauge and it seems to be acting weird.
Maybe someone could tell me if this correct?
Here are some reference voltages.
http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/mapsensor.htm

This is with the key on, engine off.


This is with the engine at idle.
Something seems to be wacked out.



I have a ZZP tune with a 3.4 pulley. Otherwise stock.
If anyone has any ideas, please help.

Its all back together for now. I need to recalibrate the tach one last time because I redid the overlay again.

What is this gauge out of? It's probably ok I would think. I take it the car is running well?

Nice build by the way... I see i have the same "Eaton Inside" sticker on my back window. lol

Yes the car has never ran better. Knock on wood.

I got the gauge on eBay from Fieroaddiction. It's a later one that's all I know.

It's hard getting the lighting just right. The overlays look good but getting the distribution is a challenge.

Notice I installed the Performance shift light too!!





Before. Notice how faded the needles are.


After.

I bought a low mileage L32 for it yesterday, 67K. (With wire harness and computer) From an 05 GTP. The PO put a Gen 3 supercharger on it because of the drive by wire. He was going to swap it into a truck but never did. I will port it and put a N* throttle body I already have.











------------------
Project Genisis Lo Budget 3800SC swap

88 Coupe under construction

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-28-2015).]

I got the Gen V Back on today.















I got some nice bolts for it.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-08-2015).]

It is an L67. I was had.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-20-2014).]

I picked up a set of INTENSE-Racining 1.9 Ratio Rockers in the Mall.
I am literally afraid to drive the car on the streets now, it was scary fast before.
I started it and it sounds good,but haven't test driven it yet.
I didn't want to wake up the neighbors at 11:30 on a Sun. night.









I cleaned out the stud holes with a QTip and compressed air






Then I torqued them to 11 FT Lbs, +90 deg with red Lock Tight.




Then I started it up after I did the other side just the same.

Finally got to race it today! I got into the twelves!

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-26-2014).]

just read the whole post. worth the read, nicely done!

quote Originally posted by ignorant prodigy: just read the whole post. worth the read, nicely done!

Thanks!

My nose badge fell off. So I put this on.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 05-26-2014).]

There is Archie.



And the run at the Dells.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 06-02-2014).]

quote Originally posted by hercimer01: There is Archie.

I had fun running tandem with you on the way up to the Dells Saturday morning.

Archie

I love the thread; I'm just starting my 3800sc build, gathering all the necessary pieces now.
My wiring harness is mostly complete; I got it out of a pick and pull but I had accidentally (absent-mindlessly) cut it at what I think was the ABS module and past the relay box going into the passenger compartment. I haven't broken down the harness yet, but I was wondering if you ran into any problems in either area? I'd like to hope that the ABS is unnecessary and the other wires that I cut went to the display, car power, and OBDII connector.

Thanks!

quote Originally posted by hercimer01: I calibrated it with the Torque App. ( there's an app for that LOL)

How?
is this whit a bluetooth ?

Please more info

Thanks

Yes, you can buy the adaptor for $10-$20 on ebay, just search elm327. The app is free unless you decide to spend a few extra $ for the pro features. I bought the pro version just because it was a great app and wanted to give back to the developer.

[This message has been edited by jmbishop (edited 08-06-2014).]

My next Mod.
I made this drawing today. I went to the pick and pull and got a one touch module for the windows from a 97 Bonneville and some lighted switches from a Grand Prix.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-26-2014).]

This was my mock up. It was all crimped together with cheap splices, but that was just for testing. When I installed it I did solder it all together. I cut out the old window switch socket and and soldered in this harness. I only put the one touch on the drivers side to keep in line with stock appearances. The passenger switch was just the switch. I ended up epoxying the switches into the switch panel after i trimmed it up a bit.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-28-2014).]

What are the window switches out of? What did you have to modify to get them in?

quote Originally posted by johnyrottin: What are the window switches out of? What did you have to modify to get them in?

The switches are from a 98 Grand Prix. The one touch module is from a 97 Bonneville. I had to trim the opening for the switches a bit with a file. Then I used 60 second epoxy on the back side to hold them in. I finished off the trim plate with a coat of DupliColor Trim Paint. I also glued the center console rubber back together and painted the ashtray and cigarette lighter plate.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 09-28-2014).]

Ive been tinkering again. Some sleepy HIDs will be on the stove for this winter.
The grey box is a variable power supply. I'm running 13.5v to a 270 ohm resister which drops it down to 6.6v.
Each diode can handle 3.3v max and are wired in series.





I used this as a reference.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-27-2014).]

Are red angel eyes illegal? I want to put some in at least for the shows.

quote Originally posted by hercimer01: Ive been tinkering again. Some sleepy HIDs will be on the stove for this winter. The grey box is a variable power supply. I'm running 13.5v to a 270 ohm resister which drops it down to 6.6v. Each diode can handle 3.3v max and are wired in series.

Cool project I've always wanted to do...

FYI, 3.3V is not the max voltage for the LED. It is the forward voltage drop across the LED. The thing to be concerned about is current. Add the two Vfwd's for the LEDs and subtract from the source voltage. This difference is the voltage across the resistor. Divide this by the resistor value to get the current. Also watch the power across the resistor, which is the current squared times the voltage across it.

Bob

WOW

Great read and pics!

I am just starting my swap....having somebody do it for me...at least the major stuff.

Im pumped

I may have a few questions a bit later

thanks

I used Danyels 90MM buckets with my 60MM projectors. I had to modify them.

I installed a boost gauge in the pillar. Nothing fancy. Next i need an AFR gauge so I can drop the pulley size more.
It's running 8-9 PSI boost.