UPDATE: Ordered my replacement upper master brake cylinder feed line to the proportioning valve block to fix the snapped line when installing the new master break cylinder.


Also noticed late last night that one of the AC condenser's feed lines was messed up really bad underneath...found a really nice used set on E-Bay and they are headed my way as well

New & the old together:

Guys...here is another possible door option for the G1 dash from a Trans Am:


I noticed while reviewing jscott1 build thread (when he put the entire dash & door skins in one of his cars) that cut of the Trans am dash in the corners where they meet the doors are not far off from the G1.

Give me your thoughts?

I've been away for a couple years, but I gotta say, this build seems to be "state of the art".
From your dash swap, to your infotainment system, to the possible OLED switching...Even the place you want to get headlamps from...
Just absolutely top notch, my friend. Can't wait to see finished pictures.
BTW, I'd have voted for the first wheels pictured, just more classy and timeless than the others.
Particularly the centers. $.02

Subscribing.

------------------
~Michael
'85 GT 4sp white - SOLD | | '85 2M6 Auto red - SOLD | | '84 2M4 bare chassis - SOLD
Crap, I'm out of Fieros! Time to buy another!! - "Your mileage may vary."
WTB: Formula 5sp

quote Originally posted by TXOPIE: Working on the laying down my better than dyna-matt substitute: I got about 88% through it and ran out, will run to Lowes tomorrow to pick up another roll of it to complete And of course the inner floor boards were sanded clean and nice thick coat of rust-oleum under that first!

You can't leave us with that...What are you using???

Bob

quote Originally posted by RCR: You can't leave us with that...What are you using??? Bob

Proven to work as good as Dyna-Matt, but no where the cost.

When done with it, will have cost me less $60 to do the entire inner cab (roof, floor, rear firewall and the doors)

[This message has been edited by TXOPIE (edited 03-08-2013).]

I used this on my camaro before and had some issues with it pealing off on side walls and roof. I think I ended up using some spray adhesive to make it hold better. If i remember right the areas I had issue with were where the overlay (read carpet etc) where not in close contact.

Hella good stuff at the right price. I think it may have been a bit better if I used a heat gun to help it stick when I was rolling it on. Dont get me wrong I would use it again, but just keep an eye out for that. It also may be that the newer stuff has a better adhesive backing than what I used.

KOS...thanks...it does work better if you utilize a heat gun

Thanx...I'll look into it...

Bob

UPDATE: As we all know information on the Internet is not always correct.

The new C6 steering wheel has the same diameter spline as the Fiero, but it has the new "DD" style spline....

But never give up, never surrender!

So I started looking at how both steering wheels where actually put together.

Started with the C6. That only part I was really concerned about was how the assembled the core portion.

The frame of the steering wheel is forged out of some alloy composite with a nice clean "x" diameter hole in the center.

This is where a machine hot presses the true core into that hole...thinking so far...so good...this has options, lets look at the Fiero steering wheel now.

While brain-storming I noticed that the Fiero's stock steering wheels core was a lot wider...my thought was if I could easily remove the core from the center of the rest of the wheel, I could then have the larger core machined down to the correct diameter and have it punched into the new C6 steering wheel.

Here is who is doing the work, will post pictures of the results early next week:
http://www.davismetal.com/

So I now needed to figure out how to get the core removed from the wheel.

I notice that on the front facing portion of the steering wheel where the horn button snaps into the stock steering wheel that there were 4 rivets holding on a plastic cover. So demo time...I used a flat head and snapped the plastic cover in several places removing it and just leaving the tops of the rivets...I then took metal cutters and cleanly cut off the heads of the rivets.

now with the plastic cover and the rives out of the way...low and behold I find out that the Fiero steering wheel is assembled just like any aftermarket wheel with 6 flush mounted screws holding the wheel to the HUB

...so now I have to scratch my head at anyone that utilizes any after market HUB adapter on a Fiero to mount an after-market steering wheel. A simple thin gauge disc shaped plate with holes drilled for both the stock hub & the after market wheel...and it would look factory distance from the column as well.

Can someone show me where I am missing something?


Also in prep for the mounting of the new steering wheel next week, I picked up the remaining pieces for the C6 wheel:







Saturday morning, I have plans to go to the salvage yard and pull the airbag bracket from a blown air-bag...this piece snaps into the cover plate above...which allows the front cover to lock onto the steering wheel.

Here is what it looks like with a fresh airbag loaded:


I just wont put a new airbag in the bracket.

The only things left to do once I get the wheel back on Monday is wire the horn, which I have already figured out

[This message has been edited by TXOPIE (edited 03-08-2013).]

quote Originally posted by TXOPIE: Paul, That is an interesting argument, but honestly I have owned 6 sets of Falcon tires and love the stiffness and handling of the tire & not once has one of their tires failed on me. Every set has been on a high performance modified sports car...except Barbie (my wife's STOCK pink pristine 88 GT) that also has a staggered set that matches what I plan for this car.

Sounds like you know what you're doing and that's all that counts. Good going so far.

UPDATE...was tracking the parts that I sent to Rob (Amida) on UPS.com and read the following scary last status...hope it doesn't mean what I think it means!

Holy crap! Do you have to have the insurance in a situation like this?????

quote Originally posted by zefferk: Holy crap! Do you have to have the insurance in a situation like this?????

I believe so. UPS could decide to cover everything, but I don't think they have to. Not sure.

PAID for the insurance on it ...but that is not the point...I want Rob to finish up my interior...now this is gonna delay it...it had my G6 glovebox, my center console armrest...i was having it recovered as well to match, vent screen and the bracket to my gauge cluster...asked rob to bend it 70 degrees since he has the correct tool to measure it on hand....FUN FUN!


Keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best!

[This message has been edited by TXOPIE (edited 03-09-2013).]

Huh...Maybe it was a little derailment?

UPDATE: UPS man delivered my replacement AC lines


Also had my welder out today to fix the area in the rear passenger wheel well under the stock battery tray position.


He also filled the hole for the stock radio antenna wire, since I am relocating mine to center rear on the roof with a G6 antenna that also has the GPS array in it as well.


He still has cleanup to do tomorrow to make it look pretty.

Tonight he is fabricating me a bracket to re-mount my coils in the area of the stock battery tray...he will be back at sun rise tomorrow to finish up


ALSO...disassembled the C6 steering wheel getting it ready for Monday! The shop has he old steering wheel core and should have it ready.


So on Monday they will drill out the C6's original spline core & then hot punch the new one they created out of the original stock steering wheels much larger core.

[This message has been edited by TXOPIE (edited 03-09-2013).]

UPDATE: INFOTAINMENT CENTER...as my normal self...given enough time I keep looking for a better and less expensive solution.

Well when it comes to this piece I want it to be as flexible as possible so I decided to not go with the Car-joy 2 din unit...don't get me wrong...awesome unit, but its hardware is proprietary...locked in!

I really like the MIMO HP, but the price tag is pretty high, so I kept looking, but nothing that seem reasonable.

But earlier today while searching for a piece of electronic hardware (computer) I knew existed from a friend of mine..."converts steering wheel controls into USB keyboard and HID remote controller"


Hardware feature
- Converts resistance-output steering wheel remote controller into USB HID keyboard and HID remote controller.
- Works same as standard USB HID keyboard and HID remote controller by hardware.
- 24V tolerant 4 channel resistance input.
- Supports 28 physical buttons, 52 programmable logical buttons.
- 2 logical button for one physical button, up to 5 simultaneous key strokes by one button.
- 2 programmable LED port.
- Remote wake-up(resume PC from sleep with steering wheel remote controller).
- Temperature range : -40 ~ +85°C

JoyCon Explorer aided feature
- Preset change by Preset up and down buttons.
- Speech and OSD when preset is changed.
- Application link(application launches and popup with preset changing).
- Speech when application launches and a button is pressed.
- User definable Button Speech
- Automatic Button Detection
- Online firmware update.

- No external power or driver installation needs.
- Available OS : Windows 7, Vista, XP, 2003

(JoyCon Explorer supports Windows XP and the later version. JoyCon Explorer does not support Linux. But CarPC JoyCon EX works on Linux and Mac after it is configured at Windows.)

App Link enables to launch application with steering wheel remote control's button and switch application when preset is changed.


Connect two wires of CarPC JoyCon EX’s input channel to the remote controls, and connect USB.

This is the typical resistance-output steering wheel remote controller's circuit.
You can put additional buttons like green box below by DIY, if you want.

You can control two external LED.

You can use typical USB cam as rearview camera with CarPC JoyCon EX.
Any USB camera or video capture device can be rearview camera.


Rearveiws popups when Channel C detects reversing light,


ex Cam shows when reversing light is detected.
Any video capture device can be rearview camera.
Horizontal and Vertical Mirror is supported.



AND THEN A LINK FROM THAT SITE LEAD ME DOWN THIS PATH:


Multi Touch Capacitive Double DIN High Bright Lilliput 669GL-70NP/C/T



Double DIN Multi Touch Capacitive Lilliput high bright monitor is an ideal choice for in dash installations.
The multi touch capacitive panel is ultra clear works with Windows XP and Windows 7 native drivers to allow features like pinch to zoom and flicks.
The double DIN foot print makes it ideal for in dash installations.
The monitor also features RCA, VGA, DVI, and HDMI input as well as all of the other bells and whistles, like auto power on and auto switching, that you have come to expect.

Features
Ultra Clear Multi Touch Capacitive Panel
HDMI, DVI, VGA, and RCA Video inputs
450 Nit High Bright LCD Panel
Double DIN Footprint will replace existing head units
7” TFT LCD Color Car Monitor 5 way adjustable LED backlighting
High Resolution, Wide Viewing Angle, with native 15:9 screen ratio
Menu Language Options: Chinese/English/French/Russian/German
Auxiliary RCA Audio and 2x RCA Video Inputs for Rear View Camera and Gaming Systems
Compatible with Windows 7 and XP
Auto power on
500:1 contrast ratio
1 year warranty

&

Black Box Mobile Case for Mini ITX Based Car PC's


We are pleased to release our new Black Box Mobile Mini ITX case. We have kept the features that make our case unique, like universal motherboard support, multiple power supply mounting options, and LCD monitor power output while making significant improvements including 5v output for powered USB devices or a hub, improved ventilation for higher power CPU's and RCA line output jacks for easy audio integration. We are also the first in the car PC industry to adopt a locking metal power input harness.

Features
Every Black Box Mobile includes the following accessories:
16 AWG 6 pin metal locking male and female wiring harness
2 End caps
LCD power connector (for touch screen monitor power)
4m/14' 18 AWG LCD power line set
2 port USB panel
RCA Jacks
Hard drive and system power LED lights
Reset switch
Hardware mounting screws, wire ties, and quick connects
Isolation bushings for the hard drive and motherboard
Hardware mounting plate
50mm high speed fan

&

OBDLink Scan Tool Universal OBD II Interface


OBDLink is our latest, most advanced PC-based scan tool that supports all OBD-2 compliant vehicles, including CAN based systems. Use it to convert your laptop, netbook, or mobile PC into a sophisticated, easy to use diagnostic system — for a small fraction of the cost of comparable standalone units! The package includes everything you need to diagnose your vehicle's problems. The free feature-packed OBDwiz diagnostic software included with the scan tool allows you to:

Turn off check engine light, and erase stored diagnostic information
Read and erase stored, pending, and permanent trouble codes (both generic and manufacturer specific)
Access freeze frame information
Display, graph, and log 90+ real-time parameters
Create custom digital dashboards
Measure and display fuel economy
And much more!

Premium diagnostic software, such as ScanXL and ScanMaster, offers a myriad of additional features, including access to proprietary systems such as ABS, and thousands of enhanced manufacturer-specific parameters.

The firmware inside the OBDLink unit is upgradeable, which means you can enjoy the latest features by downloading a free update.

Compatibility
OBDLink is compatible with all model year 1996-2010 cars and light trucks sold in the United States, including all American, European, and Asian vehicles. OBD legislation varies from country to country, therefore if you reside outside the United States, make sure that your vehicle is OBD-2 compliant before purchasing this product

Features
3 Year Warranty
USB interface Baud rates from 9600 up to 2M baud
Supports all legislated OBD protocols:
ISO15765-4 (CAN)
ISO14230-4 (Keyword Protocol 2000)
ISO9141-2 (Asian, European, Chrysler vehicles)
J1850 VPW (GM vehicles)
J1850 PWM (Ford vehicles)
Compatible with more diagnostic software than any other scan tool
Compatible with Centrafuse 2.x or later
Extended command set allows the tool to perform enhanced diagnostics not possible with ELM327-based scan tool
User upgradeable via free downloads
Can be powered from OBD or USB, for even easier firmware updates
Improved automatic protocol detection algorithm
Smart keep-alive algorithm helps ensure a stable connection on ISO and KWP vehicles
Large CAN memory buffer allows the scan tool to receive large amounts of data
Greatly increased data throughput delivers faster screen updates and more graph points

Drive it all with:

Centrafuse Auto 4
Automotive Infotainment
We are proud to introduce the all new Centrafuse Auto, the ultimate In-vehicle infotainment & telematics interface.
Built on the powerful new Centrafuse 4.0 runtime environment, Centrafuse Auto is a complete automotive infotainment software suite, designed specifically for Windows-based PC systems.

Features
Centrafuse offers an unparalleled feature set, empowering & simplifying driver-control over a wide range of functions, including:
MEDIA PLAYER
SAT HD RADIO
AM/FM RADIO
BUILT-IN APP MARKET
FULL MIXER CONTROL
BUILT-IN UPDATER
BLUETOOTH HANDSFREE
GPS NAVIGATION *
WEB BROWSER
WEATHER
EMAIL CLIENT
VOICE CONTROL
TEXT-TO-SPEECH
DVD PLAYER
OBD-II DIAGNOSTICS
MP3 PLAYER SUPPORT
SYNC PHONE CONTACTS **
A2DP SUPPORT **
UNLIMITED SCREENS ***
REAR CAMERA

[This message has been edited by TXOPIE (edited 03-10-2013).]

Saw these for you....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIERO-CENTER-CONSOLE-POWER-WINDOW-SWITCHES-RARE-BLACK-/110675528780?p t=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c4c68c4c&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the heads up on those power window switches. I really do appreciate it, but let me let you in on a secret.

Those $100 switches I can reproduce my self for about $25-$30.

FYI....What you are looking at on e-bay right now...are traditional older grey switches that have had their top rocker replaced with a Camaro rocker, which is snaps in perfectly.

I think that is almost dirty what that seller is doing on e-bay...but with that said I have order a part or two from him, because he will come across other decent parts.

I didn't even see the price when I looked. That's insane.

quote Originally posted by TXOPIE: ...except Barbie (my wife's STOCK pink pristine 88 GT) ....

I find immense irony in this statement

Well everything except the color (we all know that !), one sub woofer & aftermarket radio...rest is stock! ...lol

Did I miss anything else?

Wow, what an amazing project, SOOoo much going on it's hard to keep track of, in a good way!

If you are going to use the Rjoy device with a CarPC you will be happy! As you mentioned, you can, with a simple resistor, create your own inputs very easily. There are also a few good ones 'ready to go'. One is a Sony marine controller. I am using one in my setup. Here is a link to a bit about it in my build thread.

As for a CarPC, I have a far better option than the one above if you are interested. If you are still going with a CarPC running Win7, I can send you more info, just drop me a pm or an email.


P.S. Looks like Rob will get his parts today
Seattle, WA, United States 03/12/2013 4:23 A.M. Out For Delivery

Incredible build thread, Opie!
+ for you!

[This message has been edited by TRiAD (edited 03-12-2013).]

UPDATE:

Got the spots where he welded cleaned up and a nice coat of black rust-olum on it:




and the old antenna hole:

Dual camera's to get rid of the side view mirrors.... nice

I just realized you are in Frisco. Too bad you didn't make it out with the rest of us when we went to Cleburn and surprised DIY_Stu. We definitely could have talked shop / CarPC's and tech


Here is a thread that could keep you busy for a while, and maybe give you some ideas

John,

I will be in Fort Lauderdale last weekend of the month. My daughter is a model in Miami and my wife and I are headed down for a weekend. I will be staying in a hotel near the beach. Maybe you could take a drive on down and show me the car if you have time and its not too far!

Jim (TXOPIE)

UPDATE:

Late night E-Bay shopping...found me a set of NOS backup lights for my project:

quote Originally posted by TXOPIE: UPDATE: Ordered my replacement upper master brake cylinder feed line to the proportioning valve block to fix the snapped line when installing the new master break cylinder. Also noticed late last night that one of the AC condenser's feed lines was messed up really bad underneath...found a really nice used set on E-Bay and they are headed my way as well

How did you like Inline Tube? I bought all my brake lines from them. It helps that they are two miles away. They even have my rear 84 line to use as a model.

Bob

quote Originally posted by TXOPIE: UPDATE: Just saw that someone posted an awesome deal on C6 Corvette exhaust tips : Thanks for the heads up...I just grabbed me a set

SERIOUSLY?!?!?! That is less than half what I paid

Don't anyone get me wrong ...I am still on mark to do the 308/MERA body starting April 1st.

But instead of doing the front & rear fascia that I have shown in combination with Archie's wide body in the fall.

I think I am going to see if EVM_Rob will do this entire re-body for me...give me your thoughts everyone:

[This message has been edited by TXOPIE (edited 03-14-2013).]