darn i wish i had the new fuel pump i just want to start the car again i think it will run a whole lot better with the right fuel pressure i really want to take it out on the road . tomorrow i will do the exhaust if i have some free time

Looks cool but that X pipe wasn't designed to have the exhaust gasses cross each other going the opposite direction.

They are for the exhaust to flow in the same direction and allow a small amount to cross over between the two sides.

With the way yours is plumbed both banks will collide and be forced through the small hole between the two sides... certainly not good for flow.

I agree it wont flow as good as having them go in 1 end and out the other but i am trying to save space and i plan to put a turbo on it for more power so that will be gone and replaced with a Y pipe but this should be fine for the stock 300 HP i think

I have a VR/DIS system on my '62 Falcon with a stock inline six, and it doesn't have any problems idling at 500rpm. I can't imagine VR sensors having any sort of issue on a modern engine.

I don't know what i am doing wrong but it seems to lose signal ijust cant seem to adjust it right on the megasquirt you put a crank trigger on and running megasquirt

The air gap is critical as is the relative height/depth of the trigger wheel teeth. You also need to account for things around the trigger wheel that could compromise the signal and the wiring to the VR sensor needs to be reasonably shielded - you can't just run two wires to it and call it good. My trigger wheel was made by a guy in Texas (Miller's Mule machine shop) who makes a lot of trigger wheels, and I used salvaged wiring from a Taurus to ensure it was adequately shielded. It's been running for about a year and a half flawlessly and even with a 1bbl carb and a terribly unbalanced (factory) intake manifold, it's rock-solid.

you are right you need to do all that for the vr sensor and a hall sensor air gap is not as critical and noise is not a issue you don't have pots to adjust

quote Originally posted by engine man: I agree it wont flow as good as having them go in 1 end and out the other but i am trying to save space and i plan to put a turbo on it for more power so that will be gone and replaced with a Y pipe but this should be fine for the stock 300 HP i think

I'm curious about why you think that, because it won't.
Saving space isn't an excuse... I built my X-pipe the right way with a Northstar and didn't cut my trunk.

quote Originally posted by Will: I'm curious about why you think that, because it won't. Saving space isn't an excuse... I built my X-pipe the right way with a Northstar and didn't cut my trunk.

Heck, a longitudinal Audi V8 in a Fiero is like the perfect thing to just run true duals with, if you want to save space. I'd just go with duals to get it running, and if it really needs a crossover later or a single turbo, worry about it then.

true duals would be fine but i would need to put dual O2 in and like i said i want to turbo it next summer and this is just to get it running plus i suck at welding so building a x pipe would look really bad

quote Originally posted by engine man: true duals would be fine but i would need to put dual O2 in and like i said i want to turbo it next summer and this is just to get it running plus i suck at welding so building a x pipe would look really bad

Excuses, excuses. That exhaust configuration is terrible and it will REALLY hurt performance (and fuel economy). MS only has one O2 sensor input?

Get some of these and build a decent setup:



http://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/6206/

They have mild steel also if you get sticker shock from the stainless.

Donuts are the CHEAPEST way to get 1D bends.

If you're not confident in your welding, just tack it together and take it to a shop for finish welding.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 09-12-2014).]

excuses or not it is what i have for now

engine man you need to look closely at your datalogs, do you see any little spikes in intake air temp ? or coolant temp ? you need to zoom in all the way and look for the odd tiny jumps . Another good place to look is TPS , TPS dot and RPM dot, if you have any spikes then you have noise and need to check your grounds. Make sure you dont have any high current grounds bundled with sensor grounds, everything your describing with your VR sensor sounds like noise.

best of luck

I think the air gap is the problem but since i am putting it in a stock location there isn't any adjustment in the transmission and the transmission never was matted to this engine so there the problem lies i feel . i have rewired the Megasquirt for the hall sensor so it will be all good and i am sure the VR senso works great when set up with the right air gap . i will check all my grounds thanks for the tip

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-13-2014).]

Megasquirt has been reconfigured and checked for the Hall sensor now i just need the sensor and it should show up by mid week

Well Will you shamed me into making the exhaust right so i am going to use that x pipe but it will be turned 90 degrees with the exhaust flowing like it should through it i think i am going to end up with a different muffler but i will never get the trunk back due to the transmission running through it.

I figured that the fact that you could do better would creep up on you

I recognize that you can't put the trunk back because of the trans... my point in mentioning the trunk was to say that creative packaging can put a lot of stuff into an unexpectedly small space.

ya some times we all need a good kick in the back side to do better so thanks for giving me a kick

My pleasure

Ok a look at the new better way the exhaust is being laid out i will need to buy a walker Dynomax X flow muffler oh no comments on the bad welding

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-17-2014).]

Looks WAAAAAY better than what you had before!

With the O2 sensor in that position, you'll emphasis the left bank AFR over the right bank... The sensor is still exposed to gas from both banks, but it sees the left more than the right. I don't know if or how much this will affect your tuning.

Did you have to cant it over like that to clear the new trunk floor?

quote Originally posted by Will: Looks WAAAAAY better than what you had before! With the O2 sensor in that position, you'll emphasis the left bank AFR over the right bank... The sensor is still exposed to gas from both banks, but it sees the left more than the right. I don't know if or how much this will affect your tuning. Did you have to cant it over like that to clear the new trunk floor?

Agreed.

Or can you not just run two O2 sensors with the ECM you're using?

Good use of flex couplings. Be sure to use a flexible hanger to support the exhaust behind the X-pipe.

thanks guys , from what i have read they want the O2 at an angel with the tip facing down but i have seen them straight up in down i need to make a need to put the new crank position sensor in but i need to make a 1/4 inch spacer then wire it up and put the new fuel pump in and try starting it . the tip of the O2 is closer to the center than it looks

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-18-2014).]

Well i worked on the car and got the ignition working better it is not dropping signal but i do need to change the fuel pump to get it running i have a new pump but just haven't had much time and i need to rebuild the diff on my DD so that will happen tomorrow after work

quote Originally posted by engine man: CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

Lookin much better

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 09-23-2014).]

today i played with the car and found i have 2 plugs firing good 4 weak and 2 nothing at all it is cop and switching coils around changes nothing not sure if the ignition modules are bad or need to do some work on the MS ecu

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-23-2014).]

If your plugs are new, and each coil that's not firing in the bad pot fires well in the good pot, that sounds like a problem with your trigger or supply wiring to the coil. It could also be your MS settings or wiring.

Are they smart coils? (IE, built in coil drivers?)

I got it to run i had to make some changes to the set up info like going high inverted but it still #1 is not firing and i am not sure if the cylinder that is paired up with it is firing but i now have good spark on at least 6 cylinders and it is running allot better than the first time i ran it

Ok so i came to the shop plugged the megasquirt in and that same light on the front stops blinking so i unplug it and test it with my test board it test all right so i unplug the ignition modules they are warmer than i think they should be and i plug the ecu back in and crank to see what happens and all the lights blink so there is something wrong with the modules nut what i dont know is if the trigger's from the ECU have to much voltage and burned them up or did it just fail

call DIYautotune and talk to Matt or Ben they can help

I have emailed matt and he ask how i have the board wired and i sent a email back telling him Logic level ignition output but i just looked at the info and it is looking like i need to rewire the megasquirt and use some 680 ohm resistors so i will do that tomorrow night i should have just come off R 26,27,29 & JS11 and put a 680 ohm resistor on each

Matt said i should wire my megasquirt VAG i dont know exactly what he is talking about but this is how i did it

well i started the car with 1 of the new ignition modules that 1 seemed fine but the other got really hot i mean burn your hand in less than a minute of running time so i will change that one out then i think i will back down the dwell time to 3.2 milla seconds

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-27-2014).]

I am not sure what to think right now i bought 2 new ignition modules i plug them in car wont start i replace just 1 of them with a old module car starts and runs but after a short time the old module over heats and car runs bad and stalls