I think after i finish this car I might sell it but only to do another with a Pontiac V8 like a stroked 400 to 501 CI or maybe i will just keep this one and build the Pontiac powered one and i will keep the same longitudinal configuration

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-01-2015).]

wondering what you think the Audi V8 car is worth when done all up and running let me know what someone should pay

quote Originally posted by engine man: I think after i finish this car I might sell it but only to do another with a Pontiac V8 like a stroked 400 to 501 CI or maybe i will just keep this one and build the Pontiac powered one and i will keep the same longitudinal configuration

Wow..Pontiac V8 that's ambitious! What type trans are you thinking about? TH425 or 325..something like that? There is a cam belt drive kit out there that might shorten the overall length somewhat. Aluminium Edelbrock or KRE heads will lighten things a little..I will follow closely if you do, I have a 400 on an engine stand in my garage.

BR's,

Mark

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86 SE V6 4 speed
86 SE V6 Auto
2008 G6 GT "Street" Coupe
2005 Buick 3.6 Rendezvous
2001 Olds Silhouette (AKA The Band Van)

i would use a ZF6hp26 from a Audi and a US shift trans controller . First i need to finish this to be a driver then sell it to fund the next project

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-04-2015).]

So it's the journey and not arriving that you enjoy?

I do like to drive them but it's more fun to try and figure it all out

any one know the length from the Bellhousing surface to the front of the cylinder head or block of a Pontiac V8 ?

For the cost of building a Poncho to decent power, you could likely afford the new Audi twin turbo V8 that makes 600+...

I am sure that is true Will but it is not all about the power some times plus if i want power i can put a turbo on the Pontiac

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-10-2015).]

Winter is to long i just keep thinking of builds i would love to do

had fun the last 2 day as i took the engine out of a 2008 Subaru put new head gaskets and timing belt i really enjoyed doing it it took me longer than most but it was my first time doing a Subaru i like how simple they are to work on

quote Originally posted by engine man: my first time doing a Subaru i like how simple they are to work on

LOL WUT?

I've done an engine-in head gasket job on a Subaru... NOT my definition of easy to work on, although other than the engine being itself complicated and a tight fit between the frame rails, the cars themselves are simple.

Here's a 6 cylinder rebuild and swap into a Subaru: http://www.corner-carvers.c...owthread.php?t=31494

Also NOT easy to work on...

Will that Subaru is not hard to work on compared to allot of cars i have worked on there is room for me to get my hands on the bolts try changing a alternator on a 2000 Chrysler Sebring or change a starter on a Honda element the Honda you have to take off the intake

I've done a torque converter on 2002 A6 3.0 (C5 body). I know what hard to access is...

I just dint find it that hard but i pulled the engine and put it on a stand it took me 17 hours but i know i could cut that down to about 12 hours out repair and back in

My WRX is fun to work on, everything is designed to come apart, not just to go together on the assembly line, a lot of thought went into that design.

quote Originally posted by zkhennings: My WRX is fun to work on, everything is designed to come apart, not just to go together on the assembly line, a lot of thought went into that design.

It's designed to go together easily on an assembly line. That also just makes it easy to take things apart as well, and if you're changing a timing belt, head gasket, etc… you're dropping the engine out.

I've been pondering getting another car as a daily driver, so I don't have to drive my truck that only gets ~13-14MPG around town all the time, and have been looking at three cars mainly: Subaru Legacy, BMW M3, and Lexus IS 300. The IS 300 is by far the easiest and cheapest to work on out of all three.

Of all the cars I've ever owned, my Honda del Sol is probably the easiest to work on. The whole interior in it, except for the dash, can be taken out in about 30 minutes, including seats and carpet. The head gasket can be replaced in about 2 hours in a parking lot if you've got the tools on hand. The only really annoying thing on it is the brakes, due to it being an early model of ABS, which requires special tools and a painful bleed procedure.

well they are calling for more snow like a foot and the car is really buried and i am ready to have some fun working on it and i decided to not sell it but also build another few . I have now had my shop open for 11 months and thing's seem to be going good and looks like i will make it so i am pretty happy

Just looked at the 10 day forecast looks like 1 day it is going to be warm enough to melt some snow and by now most of the days are above freezing but it is 6 out right now and calling for -12 tonight .It's time to warm up and get the toys out and play

quote Originally posted by dobey: It's designed to go together easily on an assembly line. That also just makes it easy to take things apart as well, and if you're changing a timing belt, head gasket, etc… you're dropping the engine out. I've been pondering getting another car as a daily driver, so I don't have to drive my truck that only gets ~13-14MPG around town all the time, and have been looking at three cars mainly: Subaru Legacy, BMW M3, and Lexus IS 300. The IS 300 is by far the easiest and cheapest to work on out of all three. Of all the cars I've ever owned, my Honda del Sol is probably the easiest to work on. The whole interior in it, except for the dash, can be taken out in about 30 minutes, including seats and carpet. The head gasket can be replaced in about 2 hours in a parking lot if you've got the tools on hand. The only really annoying thing on it is the brakes, due to it being an early model of ABS, which requires special tools and a painful bleed procedure.

It's really easy to do the timing belt in the car. Headgaskets are more annoying since you have to be under the car, but no need to take the engine out. And the rest of the car is so clever. A couple screws and suddenly the interior trim pops out real easy. I took the cluster apart the other day and they super oversize all the snap features so they are both easy to undo without tools, as well as they do not break and get as brittle over time. I have worked on lots of car brands, and never have I worked on a car where less stuff breaks as it comes apart than the Subaru.

Wheel bearings suck to replace however.

[This message has been edited by zkhennings (edited 02-27-2015).]

I had to go watch my video now i really want to get going

quote Originally posted by zkhennings: It's really easy to do the timing belt in the car. Headgaskets are more annoying since you have to be under the car, but no need to take the engine out. And the rest of the car is so clever. A couple screws and suddenly the interior trim pops out real easy. I took the cluster apart the other day and they super oversize all the snap features so they are both easy to undo without tools, as well as they do not break and get as brittle over time. I have worked on lots of car brands, and never have I worked on a car where less stuff breaks as it comes apart than the Subaru. Wheel bearings suck to replace however.

Come back in another 30 years and let me know how brittle that plastic hasn't become. All plastic will dry out and become brittle over time.

Easy is also a very relative term. It may be easy to do, but it's still quite a lot of work to replace a timing blet on a Subaru.



Draining the radiator so you can pull the front bumper off to access the front of the engine might be relatively easy, but it's a lot of work, is rather time consuming, and does require replacing the drained coolant.

I am sure it seems like allot of work to some but no matter what i am working on for a car i love it , it is better then running a cash register ! sure i get dirty even tired and upset but in the end it is fun for me

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-28-2015).]

I have been working on a 72 Mercedes 350SL in the shop all i can say is Wow mice can really do allot of damage

Have any of you used Dakota Digital speedometer signal corrector ? was it easy to use did it work good pleas let me know

quote Originally posted by engine man: Have any of you used Dakota Digital speedometer signal corrector ? was it easy to use did it work good pleas let me know

All of the F40 swaps with Archie's kit are using one. Once you get it set right it should work well, but they can take a bit of tweaking to get the signals matched right.

edit: I said LS3 before, but it's the F40 kit where it matters. If you use the stock Fiero trans, the speedo will just work, but I think you'll need the Dakota device to get the signal right for the ECM.

[This message has been edited by dobey (edited 03-04-2015).]

I will have to order 1 and i need to take the tach and do the mod to get that to read correct

i have ordered what i need for the speedometer and it looks like we are starting to warm up so i think in a few weeks i will be back running the car . i am thinking i might need some resonator tips to quiet it down some more how well do the Corvette tips work?

moved the snow of the top i plan on driving by next week at the latest

shoveled the snow around the car today so she is ready to come out maybe tomorrow at lunch i can drag it out and fire it up . the speedometer recalibration box came in today and i just ordered some resonator exhaust tips to help i hope

Well things have been slow the last 2 days so i took the Fiero in and found my mat sensor was not working due to the wires got melted so i repaired them and calibrated it so now it reads correct . i put the blower up on it just to see how it's going to look it made me smile but i wont install that till late summer

Looking for some info i need the dimensions to the heater blower fan i need just the cage info

Just did a quick scan of the whole forum, nice work with the swap. I remember reading a VW TDI swap that was sweet!

thanks it is a work in progress

today i checked timing and it was dead on i dint need to adjust it 1 degree this is due to finding TDC and marking it . i put the exhaust tips on and i still need to do a bit of adjustment so they are where they will look good .

Need some help i am looking at the VSS wires on the C203 yellow is high purple is low and there is a vss ground i am trying to figure out what go's where on the Dakota digital and what i really need to know is the output wire to the speedometer

quote Originally posted by engine man: i will be putting these exhaust tips on they have resonators

Any further info on those tips?

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86 SE Convertible 3800sc 4t65e HD(2002), Gen V, 3.3 pulley, SD headers

not sure what type of info you are looking for on the tips but they are on the car and need a bit of adjustment . i bought this 1x Spartan Lambda Controller 2 - Spartan Lambda Controller with LSU 4.9 Wideband O2 sensor what adjustment's are needed to the megasquirt other than wideband is there calibration needed