I keep looking at swaps and i see really nice swaps and cool ideas on how to get them to work but i keep hearing is how hard it is to do a swap even i thought it would be harder than what it was but i have not found my swap to be hard to do so i cant imagine what could be hard about some of the swaps maybe its just me and it's just the norm for me
I let my friend and his son take my Fiero yesterday to try it out and so i could hear what it sounded like when he got after it getting on the highway and i do have to say it has one of the best exhaust notes i have heard so i cant put a turbo on the car and mess that up so i will use the supercharger i have
I just replaced 4 coils 1 i knew that was bad due to checking it and the others i suspect where week due to the spark plug color now she sings on all 8 . now i have 6 new coils and 2 original coils
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-22-2015).]
? to those who do tunning as i am driving on the highway at around 2500 rpm the engine seems to cut out or buck what do you think is happening to lean or what
went to the car show today had some fun i all so got the new wideband O2 and i had to cut the plug off the old O2 and the new O2 and wire the plug on and i plugged it in to test it now it works it shows full lean with key on engine not running now i just need to solder the wires up from the old plug and new O2 . I got the coolant expansion tank and i need to install that so i can get rid of the coolant hose across the top of the engine
thought i would show how i was shown how to solder wires together . ok you don't twist the wires together like this the right way is wrapping them around each other like this then solder them together getting the wire hot so it will melt the solder it should look something like this when done and finished with shrink tube on it remember to cut out any bad corroded wire and splice in good wire
I used to do that, but nowadays I use uninsulated crimp butt splices and clear shrink tube. It's much easier on your fingertips than twisting and bending lots of wires and has a much lower likelihood of getting burned... and seals/lasts just as well as a soldered connection without the risk of fatigue failure due to solder wicking.
I take regular insulated connectors (I have a ton of them), wire wheel the plastic off, crimp and solder along with shrink wrap. Fantastic connections.
I'm curious about soldering the wires together on the O2 sensor. I just bought a universal O2 for my Subi that came with a convoluted splice mechanism. I wasn't going to use it, and was just going to solder them like you did, but the instructions that came with the sensor specifically stated that you should use their splice system, saying there needs to be air flow around the wires, and to not solder splice with heat shrink. That sure didn't make any sense to me, but I took their word for it and went ahead and used their splice thing. Anyone know anything about that?
[This message has been edited by Taijiguy (edited 05-11-2015).]
I'm curious about soldering the wires together on the O2 sensor. I just bought a universal O2 for my Subi that came with a convoluted splice mechanism. I wasn't going to use it, and was just going to solder them like you did, but the instructions that came with the sensor specifically stated that you should use their splice system, saying there needs to be air flow around the wires, and to not solder splice with heat shrink. That sure didn't make any sense to me, but I took their word for it and went ahead and used their splice thing. Anyone know anything about that?
Do you have a picture of the splice? I'm intrigued...but can't see any reason why that would be better than a heat shrunk / solder connection.
That looks better, now you need to work on that intake hose. If you move the battery up front, you could use that area to route the intake hose and filter.
Funny you saying that i was just talking to my brother how i need to do something with the intake as i feel the stock one is restrictive i can see the hose contracting when i rev it up like it is under vacuum
Funny you saying that i was just talking to my brother how i need to do something with the intake as i feel the stock one is restrictive i can see the hose contracting when i rev it up like it is under vacuum
I used 3-1/2" exhaust pipe to build mine. I pie cut pieces and welded them together to make the curves. The connectors are shielded rubber plumbing pipe connectors.
Well i would like some new wheel but cant afford them so i am fixing up the old wheel i have done striped the old clear coat off and started to sand and polish the outer lip i will also repaint the centers maybe the same color as the car
I went to Newport NH Cruise Night put on by Car Nutz and met the parents of OneSexyFiero the where nice and i am sure i will be calling them for a few parts and i hope to see there Fiero out at the cruise nights
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-25-2015).]
Heard you ran into my parents. Said you've got a pretty nice setup. I've got a ton of parts down at my parents place, so let me know if you need anything. I'll definitely need to hit a Newport cruise night or two this summer.
ya i am going to need the driver side round trim from the back of the door to the wheel opening do you have that if so how much and can you have your parents bring it next week to Newport and i hope to see you there with a car it will be fun
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 05-28-2015).]
Well i started to work on the car body today and got the driver side rocker on right and i removed the GT panels on the bottom of the doors now i need to fill the holes
well Will Beauty is in the eye of the beholder as they say i think it looks good and thats all that matters just like the rest of this build it really doesn't matter what any one thinks as i have proven i could do what allot said could not be done and the axle would not work with that much angle but they do so i get the last laugh to those naysayers
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 06-06-2015).]
I tried to lean my idle mixture out but the idle starts hunting it seem to work best at 11.5 AFR as soon as i start leaning it out then it all turns to sh!t. I did take it out on the high way and let the computer do its thing and lean out at cruising speed so it should be better on gas but it really needs to go on a dyno so it can be tuned through out the full rpm
Sequential? Have you played with injection timing? Since air velocity is low at idle, getting good atomization depends on introducing the fuel when the air velocity is highest.
Did you try setting fixed ignition timing (e.g. 10 degrees for idle tuning) before you play with the AFR?
Also... does that engine have variable cam phasing? The 3.0 V6 from 2002 does, even though it uses a timing belt as well.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 06-07-2015).]
no variable cam phasing and is batch fire with the megasquirt and i have done it like they said and they say if you get to lean the idle will hunt it just is what it is i get a nice smooth idle at the 11.5 just thought i might be able to go leaner
? do any of you know of a way to repair the bumpers on the fiero mine has a bunch spider cracks is there something i can paint it with to cover them after i get all the old paint off or do i need a whole new rear bumper cover due to the cracks will just come back up through the paint
If you move the battery up front, you could use that area to route the intake hose and filter.
