It's easier to unplug the harness from the ECM and pull it through the firewall than it is to unplug it from everything on the engine.

Also not necessary to remove the intake manifold to remove the engine.

i was trying to sell the intake thats why i took it off, the harness would have been easier to do like you said but the engine is out now

Let me say one thing YOU CAN NEVER USE TO MUCH NEVER SEEZ gosh dam it it would have been better if he never took it apart and put the red Polly bushings in the back i think he use salt water to put it back together

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-31-2012).]

I find it amusing that I use anti-seize when reassembling things that GM assembled with Loctite.

quote Originally posted by Will: I find it amusing that I use anti-seize when reassembling things that GM assembled with Loctite.

From my experience, especially in WI, even loctite allows for the possiblity joint seperation, but the use of penetrating oil usually leaves the joint so dry after evaperation they joint just rusts together. Especially when reusing bolts, as subsequent uses slowly remove the zinc plating.

well i can start doing some work to put the Audi on the cradle tomorrow but need to work on the house also so do a Little hear and a Little there

I dint get as much done as i wanted but this is the position on the cradle as far as front to back and it shows the angle of my axles i could go more if i want to cut the fire wall . i still need to work on the back cross member so the transmission sits right

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-02-2012).]

What is the measurement from the transmission bell housing to the center-line of the axle? Curious to see if it matched the 7.87" you had found in your previous thread https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/122938.html . How far back from the wheel center-line is the axle center-line?

[This message has been edited by seajai (edited 08-03-2012).]

quote Originally posted by engine man: I dint get as much done as i wanted but this is the position on the cradle as far as front to back and it shows the angle of my axles i could go more if i want to cut the fire wall . i still need to work on the back cross member so the transmission sits right

Starting near the bottom of page one, see how I dealt with modifying the cradle to get the transaxle down where it needed to be and solve a matinence problem. tour axle angle looks very much where I wound up.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/086876.html

Cheers Beers n Gearz. Joe

if i remember correctly the axle centerline to bellhousing face is about 6.75 on the 012 transmission and 7.87 on the 016 i have the 012 transmission seajai. thanks for the help motoracer838

034 motorsports flywheel insert and a F1 ceramic clutch disk no springs

Has any one used these VEMS ecu it seems all the audi guys use them http://www.vems.us/

just posting a picture of a newer Audi A4 transmission i would love to have it has the axle moved forward a whole bunch as you can see i found this one on the UK ebay it is a 6 speed standard

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-07-2012).]

quote Originally posted by engine man: just posting a picture of a newer Audi A4 transmission i would love to have it has the axle moved forward a whole bunch as you can see i found this one on the UK ebay it is a 6 speed standard

What year audi was this transaxle from?

quote Originally posted by FieroWannaBe: What year audi was this transaxle from?

It is from an A4 A5 2.0 Tdi around the 150bhp mark.

diesel right so higher torque

My first thought was that if it was made for a diesel engine, it might be geared a bit low for the engine you are using...but after research, the ratios are:

Final: 3.693
1st: 3.778
2nd: 2.050
3rd: 1.321
4th: 0.970
5th: 0.757
6th: 0.625

Outside of 4th gear being a tad quicker, those are almost identical to the 2006 F40...but with a 3.693 final rather than the F40's 3.55. The only other question is...what rpm is that transmission rated to spin to? Although you can probably get away with over-revving the tranny some, the engine it came with gets it's peak power at 4200rpm as opposed to your engine's 6500rpm.

Does your engine have the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the newer transmission?

What is the clutch and differential layout as well? the differential look to be right where the clutch would normally be.

ya from what i could see the clutch is the problem looks like it takes some special stuff so to make it work like a small triple disk and i think it would cost so much $$$$ it wouldn't be worth it . the gearing would not be to bad since the engine stock red line is 6600 rpm and they bump that up to 7000 rpm but if i had the R8 engine it has a red line of like 8200 rpm

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-08-2012).]

quote Originally posted by engine man: ya from what i could see the clutch is the problem looks like it takes some special stuff so to make it work like a small triple disk and i think it would cost so much $$$$ it wouldn't be worth it . the gearing would not be to bad since the engine stock red line is 6600 rpm and they bump that up to 7000 rpm but if i had the R8 engine it has a red line of like 8200 rpm

With the R8 engine your looking at a "Lambourghini" AWD Transaxle, and a drivetrain value that exceeds almost any Fiero's value.
But I do wonder if the latest manual transaxle there is a dual clutch unit.

Well just gotta add 1 more pipe and finish welding and make it look prettier

whoa!? you're actually building this?

yes i felt it was worth doing

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-10-2012).]

Im looking forward to hear this run..probably sounds great

This should help with inspiration:


Here's the whole crazy long thread: 4.2l Audi V8 6speed in a Lotus Esprit
I hope this thread, as well as contacting the builder will help you complete your project.

I wanted to go work on the car but my back was killing me after work so i must wait till Monday when my buddy is open so i can finish welding it all up

How did you determine forward engine placement on the cradle?

I measured from the top of the frame to the top of the firewall then from the top of the frame to the top of the engine so i could measure down the firewall to where the top of the engine would be . knowing that from the very top of the firewall to axle center is 20 inches i measured down to where the top of the engine would be then took a plum bob and measured how far forward the fire wall kicked forward to see how far forward i could move the engine then i measured from the front cradle mounts to the axle center line and that was 22 inches this gave me something to measure off on the cradle to position the engine. it just happen to be i could put the front pulley right even with the front cradle mount bolt hole when all said and done

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-10-2012).]

quote Originally posted by engine man: I measured from the top of the frame to the top of the firewall then from the top of the frame to the top of the engine so i could measure down the firewall to where the top of the engine would be . knowing that from the very top of the firewall to axle center is 20 inches i measured down to where the top of the engine would be then took a plum bob and measured how far forward the fire wall kicked forward to see how far forward i could move the engine then i measured from the front cradle mounts to the axle center line and that was 22 inches this gave me something to measure off on the cradle to position the engine. it just happen to be i could put the front pulley right even with the front cradle mount bolt hole when all said and done

So what did your axle offset end up being from the trans to the hub? How tall is the Audi V8?

about 4 3/4 inches since from the from the front of the pulley to the center of the axle on the transmission was 26 3/4 inches and from the front cradle bolt hole it is 22 inches to the hub centerline so 22 from 26 3/4 = 4 3/4

the cradle all done ! it could be prettier but oh well

Any one use Mitchel's online auto repair manual is it any good i am going to try it for the wiring schematics http://www.eautorepair.net/...ult.asp?VID=&Count=Y

quote Originally posted by engine man: ? is it possible to read and copy all the tables from a stock ecu and put them on a aftermarket ecu as a starting point

Yes and no. It is possible to copy and paste the information, but there are a couple of issues.

The size/shapes of the tables might be different and require interpolating data for points you don't have or you might need to lose resolution to fit in a smaller table.
The second and more important aspect is rarely is a single or multiple table all you need. For example a stock speed density computer uses values across multiple tables to control the fueling at a given load, rpm, throttle opening, engine temp, air temp, voltage and O2 feedback (not including all the constant values). So when you swap computers, you can lose or gain additional contributing tables for the fuel/timing control which will alter the numbers in the tables across the board.

When going from one GM ecm to another GM ecm, I have copy/pasted/manipulated the tables as a closer starting point (like using the LT4 map/rpm table for my Ramjet setup), but once the tuning starts most values needed some minor tweaking anyway.

thanks Fieroguru I am still up in the air about weather to run the stock ecu with chip and immobilizer or do the Vems V3 or meegasquirt MS3x no matter what it is $700 but with the Vems and Megasquirt i can tune and stock can be but from what i am told on this Bosch unit the chip needs to be unsolderd and burned even though it is OBD2. I just thought of 1 other thing can a ostrich emulator be used in my Bosch motronic obd2 ecu and could i copy the original maps to it modify and turn off the automatic transmission stuff ?

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-14-2012).]

Is that 1x2 rectangular tubing for the new rear crossmember?

I'm not sure that's stiff enough to take the weight + torque load from the powertrain by itself without bowing... And it's absolutely not good enough to put any kind of cornering loads on the cradle.

You need to gusset and brace the heck out of that before you start cornering hard.

Wow i opened up my ecu and not a pretty site not even sure it would work but i will get some electronics cleaner and spray it down and see what it looks like

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-14-2012).]