Well i am going with Vems at EFI Express $790 this included ECU , Connectors & Maps for the 4.2 V8 http://www.efiexpress.com/catalog/index.php I thought i would list what i have spent and need to spend
1998 Fiero GT T-Top $1300 1998 Audi A8 4.2 engine with 2001 passat transmission with wiring harness and ecu $1000 Vems ECU $790 90 inch long transmission cables ? Porsche Boxster transmission brackets $300 bought on ebay with cales for $75.00 034 Motorsports flywheel insert $400 shipped Clutch disk $69 stock pressure plate from passat $0.00 cut and weld Axles ?
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-18-2012).]
well i have a few things to clean up and a few parts to wait for befor it really gets put in but hear is a few pictures of what it kinda will look like
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-17-2012).]
I like what i have I am sure the W8 would be right at home but i bet you would pay more for just the engine than i did for all that i got and she is going to be a sexy beast. I will post some more pictures when i get a bit further along
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-19-2012).]
In the pic looking at the rear on, is the cradle hard up against the frame with the trans sitting in the position it is in the pic or is there more work to get it a bit further up so the trans is a bit more behind the rear bumper?
Looking great. I have a Ferrari 355 3" stretched frame that i wanted to do this with so I am following this to see how it all turns out.
Keep the updates coming.
Cheers Don
quote
Originally posted by engine man:
well i have a few things to clean up and a few parts to wait for befor it really gets put in but hear is a few pictures of what it kinda will look like
no 355fiero it is not all the way up to the frame i am going to get some pictures today with it all in place and the end of the transmission is just shy of the back of the trunk by about an inch . with a 3 inch stretch like you have it would work out really nice your axle offset would be about 2 inches or less mine is just under 5 inches . thanks BV motorsports it feels good to do an original
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-20-2012).]
pictures of it all the way in and needing to go forward 1 inch i need to modify the tunnel that go's across the fire wall but this is where the engine will sit other than that back cradle pads are touching the frame . oh ya the rear deck hinges are gonna need about 1/2 inch trimmed from the inside. I hope this helps 355Fiero or any body who is thinking of doing it I am kinda at a stand still now gotta wait for parts and some more money to really go further
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-20-2012).]
Thanks for pushing it up the rest of the way. Looks like I will be swapping my 3.4 dohc against a Getrg to a setup like this. Btw, I agree with the other member that you will most likely have issues using only the 1x2 to support the trans end at the back of the cradle. Motoracer (Joe) did a slightly different setup at the rear using 2x2 I believe that looks a bunch stronger.
what i am thinking is to weld some 2 X 2 1/4 thick channel iron to the bottom side to stiffen it up
You'll need to do a lot more than that.
The loads on the lateral links in the suspension will try to fold each cradle side rail under the car. The mounts from the rail to the frame on the same side will not be able to withstand the moment. The rear crossmember needs to be *triangulated* well enough that loads on one rail can be shared by all four mounts.
Think about how beefy the stock rear cradle crossmember is... you'll need something at least that stiff in vertical bending. Ideally it should be stronger because you'll be applying greater loads to it than stock.
Did you get a before weight for the car or a before/after weight for the cradle + assembled powertrain?
I think your right engine mount is going to need triangulation also.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 08-20-2012).]
i think i don't under stand what you are say but let me try . now do you want me to triangulate from the center of the crossmember to the side rails horizontally or do you want me to do a gusset on the crossmembers that reach up higher on the mounting points or just do all the above
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-20-2012).]
Will i think i understand what you are saying is that when the side load while cornering is going to try or will fold the mounting pad legs in the back up an under so i need to triangulate from the mounting pad down to the crossmember
Will i think i understand what you are saying is that when the side load while cornering is going to try or will fold the mounting pad legs in the back up an under so i need to triangulate from the mounting pad down to the crossmember
Yes.
You'll need to build what will be in essesnce a truss ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truss ) that connects the two mounting pad legs. This makes each mounting pad leg triangulated against the mounting point on the opposite side of the body.
However, your truss needs a hole in it for your transmission.
Ya i agree that it needs to be fixed i need to get the transmission linkage so i know where to put the pipe's .thanks i wasn't thinking of that side load and the long like legs going up and the leverage it was going to have on all of it
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-21-2012).]
well the transmission linkage showed up with cables it is from a 97-99 Porsche boxter it fits perfect oh ya it should Porsche boxster , Audi a4 and VW passat all used the 012 getrag transmission and the price was right $75
just stock i don't see any need to do anything to it , first you must exceed it's limits before needing any more and i don't think to many drivers even come close to it's limitations . I took some pictures of the transmission linkage
Well it was a nice day today but i did not work on the car and need to get back at it tomorrow along with repair my truck brake line that blew out due to being old and rusted i hope to have the engine all bolted in place and rear suspension back on by the end of the week then i will have to wait to get enough money to buy my Vems ECU to run it and i don't think i will have enough money before October at the earliest .
The engine looks like it sets really low in the engine bay but I noticed that you dont have the cradle bolted up. It would be sweet to have a flat 6 Porsche in a Fiero.
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 08-27-2012).]
Thanks Erik it will be all bolted in by the end of the week and i will take pictures of it the but the last pictures i posted it was at the right hight just needed it to go forward . the only thing that is holing me up right now is the nub that the clutch fan screw on to on the water pump i need to cut it off and saws all blades aren't touching it need to get some cut off wheels .
Originally posted by Erik: The engine looks like it sets really low in the engine bay but I noticed that you dont have the cradle bolted up. It would be sweet to have a flat 6 Porsche in a Fiero.
Hmmm i have heard the Subaru transmission is really strong but mine bolts right up and the 6 speed 01E fwd from a 05-08 A4 is just as strong and Kennedy engineering makes engine adapter kits
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-28-2012).]
Alright, don't keep us guessing, what year would you suggest and what are that's engine's stats?
Any WRX (2.0) or STi (2.5) 4 cylinder or the 3.0 flat 6 from Outbacks and such (there are even some JDM versions of this engine that are pretty hot right out of the box--like 270 HP from a N/A 3.0. The STi six speed converted to 2WD is the only realistic transmission option, though. It's the only Subaru stick strong enough to take abuse.
The 2009 WRX came eqiuped with a 5 speed box, (same as previous gen STI) and the 265HP 2.5 Turbo 4. That box is pretty stout, and easily convertable to 2wd with parts from subarugears.com. I am not aware that the 6 speed box can be converted with easy to order parts at this time.
wow that transmission is so long you would have to use the 4 cylinder and even then it might be sticking out past the bumper. I worked on the car a bit today and just cant seem to get it to go that last inch forward and cant see what is holding it from going in dam i just thought of something that stupid trunk spring hangs down next to the hinge.
Great build diary. I was looking through Joe's (motoracer838's) frame build up for the longitudinal engine orientation and his rear end framing would work very well in your application. You wouldn't lose any ground clearance as the tube running across is the same height as the original cross tube.
As for the Porsche shifter cables, I have seen lots of replica builders put a connection setup several inches forward of the oem locations where the stock cables reach and connect the trans levers to the extensions. The connection setup pretty much replicates the normal setup and uses straight rods to extend the position enough required to hook it all up.
Wow i got it but there is a hole now just behind the passenger seat for the cables thay will come out from the center console to exit out just behind the seat the carpet will cover it then they go between the alterator and alternator bracket the bracket need relieving for the cables . i have to relieve the hump that the fuel filler hose hides behind because the pulleys hits. 1 inch should be more than enough then it should all fit . it's not really hard to do but just allot of test fitting and cutting things out of the way
