quote Originally posted by engine man: i bought this Mustang dyno it was used for emission testing but i will convert it to what i want not sure if it will need just software or hardware or both . sime videos of it

Cool project. I work for a dyno manufacturer (not Mustang). I think the biggest hurdles you will encounter are: these dynos have low inertia, so measuring power through inertial testing alone is tricky. And the small rolls will make traction under power difficult, but nothing that cant be overcome to some degree.

I agree the small rollers have a traction problem and the eddy brake on it is good for about 500 whp one guy told me as he has the exact same model dyno and i can control the load manually with a potentiometer as t just needs a 0-5v signal but i would like the computer to do it all. what do you do design ,assemble or write software for them ?

quote Originally posted by engine man: I agree the small rollers have a traction problem and the eddy brake on it is good for about 500 whp one guy told me as he has the exact same model dyno and i can control the load manually with a potentiometer as t just needs a 0-5v signal but i would like the computer to do it all. what do you do design ,assemble or write software for them ?

I am a project engineer, I design everything. Water Brakes, Eddies Systems, AC Regen Systems, Gen-sets based systems, Chassis Dynos, Transmission Dynos, Engine Dynos, Pump Testing, Flow Benches, Heat Exchangers, I've done it all there so far, Design, Service, Assembly, Installation and Testing.

Eddies can absorb lots of torque very quickly, but for sustained running, depending on the model used, the top end units peak at around 100HP-150HP continuous absorption. If you have the tag on the eddy I can tell you what I might now, so long as it isn't a Chinese model, we don't touch those,.

I know there a few companies out offering third party controls systems, and the control system is what makes or breaks the quality of the dyno system. Each company does it all a little differently in chassis dynos,which is why results vary so much between companies. Keep in mind, Garbage in = Garbage out, so having qaulity signals, and qaulity data, is the first step to an accurate and repeatable test. -

The only tag could see said mustang dyno eddy brake 72Vdc and 40 amps and i am not sure how they are figuring torque arm length as i would think it would be from the center out to the load cell and that is like 8 inches bt the dyno tag said 24 inches so that is a bit confusing to me but i was thinking it might be due to drive belt gearing and inertia weight ? and is a mustang dynamometer md a-sm-97. Wow i am sure happy to have someone like you tell me what you can and understand that it maybe not that much due to you build and sell dynamometers and can not give info away

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-19-2019).]

quote Originally posted by engine man: The only tag could see said mustang dyno system 72Vdc and 40 amps and i am not sure how they are figuring torque arm length as i would think it would be from the center out to the load cell and that is like 8 inches bt the dyno tag said 24 inches so that is a bit confusing to me but i was thinking it might be due to drive belt gearing and inertia weight ? and is a mustang dynamometer md a-sm-97. Wow i am sure happy to have someone like you tell me what you can and understand that it maybe not that much due to you build and sell dynamometers and can not give info away

I would assume 24" would be the length they use for a calibration arm? But to determine the torque acting on the load cell from the eddy, it is center line of the pivot (usually the eddy axis, although not always) and the load point on the load cell, but if they use any drive ratio, it would require a correction factor. Inertia load is usually accounted for during acceleration and other dynamic events.
I am not very familiar with the construction of the Mustang emissions dynos. They are a bit outdated in the US, so I haven't come across any functioning units.

Thank you for the info that you could tell me and i know the computer to it works but it is so old windows 98 and it will only do emission check and not do any other testing i have not yet tried the big control box that has the power supply to the brake but am told buy the guy that has the same dyno i can control the power absorber by using a variable resistor am assuming he is talking about a potentiometer but i would like to control it with a automatic computer control

quote Originally posted by engine man: Thank you for the info that you could tell me and i know the computer to it works but it is so old windows 98 and it will only do emission check and not do any other testing i have not yet tried the big control box that has the power supply to the brake but am told buy the guy that has the same dyno i can control the power absorber by using a variable resistor am assuming he is talking about a potentiometer but i would like to control it with a automatic computer control

Eddy brakes are pretty easy to control, depending on the wiring. If it's wired for 72V DC, I would find a DC motor power supply capable of its rated amps. A variac will no provide a DC signal.

thanks i know there are 3 wires that control the eddy brake module I-con, I-sig & I-pow ground, power & signal , then i need to just get data from the load cell and from the engine rpm and roller , 02 and a few more

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 10-20-2019).]

i have power to the dyno control box

quote Originally posted by engine man: Thanks Rickady88GT as i also think it is cool . I just bought a labjack u6 pro to run it now i just need to put it all together

I don't know much about that dyno, but I do know that you should replace that drive belt and have one or two on the shelf, just in case.
I am totally waiting for a video; )

yes i need to figure out what the belt as i do not see any numbers on it

well today i canceled the labjack order as i felt it just was not going to be any cheaper and it was going to be more work as i would need to learn how to write code so i ordered the YourDyno controller and software so the dyno should be up and working in about 2 weeks

Since i bought the dyno i have been feeling like a little kid as i can't wait to get the fiero up on my new toy to tune it

i have not worked on the car for some time now but i have almost everything to get the dyno up and going i am just waiting on a computer that will be for the dyno only and that should be in tomorrow then i just need to get the rest of the camper off the trailer frame so can mount the dyno on it and do the wiring then i will test it with my truck first then put the fiero up on to see what she has after i do some tuning on it

the dyno is ready to use other than it needs to be mounted on the ground or like i am doing on a trailer so it is mobile

today i got after it on striping the camper body off the trailer it is now off and just the floor is left but i think that will rip right off with the truck in 4 wheel low and a strap hooked on and just rip away it will be dyno ready soon

Happy Thanksgiving everyone as there is so much to be thankful for i just hope you all had as good or better a year than i did and i had a great year and expect another great year and i hope you have a great year

Wow I just looked back through my thread from the start to where we are right now and i have to thank everyone for the help of pointing me and pushing me in the right direction even those who i did not agree with helped me move forward and rethink so thank you all and sorry if i seemed grumpy to your ideas as i know everyone in the Fiero community wants everyone to succeed so thanks again for the help and support

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 12-06-2019).]

ok today i din't work on the car but did see if my boring bar that i bought back a year or so worked so i mounted it up on a block that is cracked to see if it was going to work and it did for about a half inch then the gear that was thought to be bad ended the boring so now i need to disassemble it and repair that and then it will bore nicely as the half inch it did bore looked good.

That looks like a fun toy! How goes the dyno project?
Happy new year
shem

dyno is on hold until winter is over due to the trailer that it is going to be mounted on is in the field and i am working on building a 6 DOF motion simulator https://www.youtube.com/wat...__gkwK0rwqBL9G9qbK70

kinda bummed out as Rottler is not making the gear i need for the boring bar anymore and i contacted one place they wanted $3500 for one i can buy a used bar for that in great condition i was thinking maybe having a 3D printed gear but not sure they have a material that can handle the load but the gear i have is not metal it is some sort of plastic i think with fiber in it it is brown in color so i am asking what do you think about 3D printing a new one is there good strong printing

If it is a plastic gear it is probably delrin or some other structural plastic.They make some amazing things with printers now but sorry I have no idea where to look. Good luck with it, following along as always. Missed the part about the colour might be made out of phenolic resin? Nylon is a popular plastic for gears too.

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86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms

[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 01-13-2020).]

it looks just like a phenolic resin carb spacer for the race cars

If ycou can get me a cad file, I can print it for you. I can print it solid for strength from abs, petg, or pla plastics. Lemme know

shem

Thanks shem but i have no idea how i would or could get a cad file for this but i did talk to one place and they said they would scan it and print it in nylon but not sure it would be the strongest but i know nothing about 3D printing

A8 Fiero is for sale $9900

quote Originally posted by engine man: A8 Fiero is for sale $9900

Really? After all the work you put into it? This was a massive project, and you've gotten further with it than most people who try things so dramatic!

Did you have some life situation changes? I hope it isn't a loss of motivation thing!

it has been a challenge to build this but it has burned me out and i am trying to get my house done and sold so i can move back to FL but i do not expect it to sell as that price is firm and i will not budge one penny as i have to much time and money in it to sell cheap

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-18-2020).]

in about a month i will be taking the fiero down and start working on it again as i know i will get working on it and get back into it and have fun with it i do want to get to the drag strip this year and now have a trailer to take it i do not need to worry about breaking something and getting it back home but i do need some better rear tres than the pair of stones i have on it

yesterday i had a visitor in the shop i didn't get much time to talk to onesexyfiero and he was the one who sold me this car i turned into what it is now and it sure looks allot different then when they brought the 88 4 cylinder coupe chassis to me . i know it was good to see a fellow fiero person as they are pretty rare in NH and VT as we have zero fiero groups but i do think there is a club for all of new england but they are in massachusett and maybe southern NH and when i go to a car show i am the only fiero thier

Hey, look what I found.

who is that ? this is me

He's a guy who got dinged right near the eye or so it looks.

i am not sure why you posted it or is it you ? i need to get my car down off the lift and start working on it so i can start on another project the W12 non stretch fiero

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-07-2020).]

And that will be a cool one.
That is Marks73TA as used to be known on other forums.. He looks older in my pic than yours. Thought he was you.

[This message has been edited by sourmash (edited 04-07-2020).]

nope not me i am waiting for my $1200 check so i can spend it on something and i have the passat w8 going up for sale as have it done but just need to get a title in my name and i have a 6.0 chevy Ls truck engine that i have a set of new aftermarket heads i think i can get around $3500 for when done

Hello everyone this morning I finished rebuilding the left rear caliper as it was sticking and i think that was causing a pull to the left when shifting kinda uncomfortable feeling when accelerating hard ,I also fired the old girl up for the first time in over 6 months turned the key on a few times to get fuel pressure then cranked it over and she fired right up with that sweet music out the tail pipes

well today i finally took the car out and it feels like the water / methanol injection is to much as when i stood on it hard she stumbled i am going to need to see what is going on by data logging but it seems to pull hard to about 4500

Good to see that it is running, though. I've been waiting to see a post about one of your projects.