Hi Roger Yes as you can see from the start of my build I was using a different foam, I still use sheet foam from fiberglass foam core doors for flat surfaces, but for curved surfaces the two part foam is the best. although it is expensive!!
[This message has been edited by dobie1 (edited 11-26-2014).]
So when I was building the Gill vents in the rear clip the glassing was terrible and I ended up having to rebuild them to get the clean lines I needed. So when I started the front vents in the chin and spoiler I decided to glass the spoiler whole with out the chin vents other and only the two larger spoiler vents, then cut the chin vents in later for a cleaner look. Once that was done I clead them up with some bondo and then glassed the vents with one layer of 1 1/2 oz matt. I think it turned out much better and easier than the gill vents. Plus it bonds the whole spoiler to the old 308 kit. I also cleaned up the wheel arches and the underside of the front spoiler for the transition to the underside. The following pics show up to the glassing which I did today and hope to get some more pics tomorrow. enjoy!!
[This message has been edited by dobie1 (edited 11-26-2014).]
Here is the update for today ,the glassing turned out great. The weather is terrible right now rain and wind the rain is ok but unable to do anything right now with the wind.
Here is the update for today ,the glassing turned out great. The weather is terrible right now rain and wind the rain is ok but unable to do anything right now with the wind.
Man....that much block sanding would kill me at my age, lol.
Here is a bit of a update for those that are interested. I started working on the hood that I had cut earlier, I needed to modified the stock brackets as I had to move the attaching points to the inside of the hood so they wouldn't bind on the modified top fenders yet still attach to the car in the stock mounting points I plan to glass the sides of the hood to finish off the hood's underside molded sections. Once I attach the top fenders permanently I'll build a "L"edge that I can attach a rubber seal for the hood to seal to. It will also give me attachment points to secure the top fender, to the new frame I need to build underneath. I'll eventually take some sandpaper and clean up the hood!!!
I for one can really appreciate the amount of time and labor you are putting into this; keep it up, this is surely going to be something very special when you get it "finished."
I've done work like this before (on an all-fiberglass Lotus Europa) and I have an observation. Just think about it....
Now that you've essentially got new surfaces on every single inch of the fenders, bumpers, and quarters etc, you should think about just using the to pull molds from and making all new parts. My reasoning is thus: First of all your body is going to be rather heavy. It is obviously two bodies now. Plus the surfaces you build are going to be thicker with more glass and resin and all that kitty hair required to get a presentable surface. You'll have captured foam and air pockets you'l need to make sure are vented or you'll get problems with heat expansion. I would expect a lot more unwanted print-through of the glass fibers, stress cracks and whatnot. If you made new parts based on the stuff you've done, you'd have thin, light, and cleaner parts. I'm not even sure it would put the project back that much time-wise because you could build the plugs for looks rather than durability/function. You'd also be able to reproduce any parts that were damaged, or even make another car if you felt the need. I'm sure you've already thought about all this, but you obviously have the talent to do it either way.
I've done work like this before (on an all-fiberglass Lotus Europa) and I have an observation. Just think about it....
Now that you've essentially got new surfaces on every single inch of the fenders, bumpers, and quarters etc, you should think about just using the to pull molds from and making all new parts. My reasoning is thus: First of all your body is going to be rather heavy. It is obviously two bodies now. Plus the surfaces you build are going to be thicker with more glass and resin and all that kitty hair required to get a presentable surface. You'll have captured foam and air pockets you'l need to make sure are vented or you'll get problems with heat expansion. I would expect a lot more unwanted print-through of the glass fibers, stress cracks and whatnot. If you made new parts based on the stuff you've done, you'd have thin, light, and cleaner parts. I'm not even sure it would put the project back that much time-wise because you could build the plugs for looks rather than durability/function. You'd also be able to reproduce any parts that were damaged, or even make another car if you felt the need. I'm sure you've already thought about all this, but you obviously have the talent to do it either way.
Thanks for the comments guys very much appreciated! To CharlieHorse; Yes I have thought about doing molds, as I have had a couple of guys PM me that are interested in me building a body kit of my car. Not sure I really want to go in that direction, as far as the current body goes I did cut out most of the old body and foam on the rear clip,so I don't think I will have a problem with gases from the foam. I did however over build the rear clip!!!! Probably gained 75 lbs over all. As far as the front goes the spoiler section is made from foam used in fiberglass doors so it is inert of gasses as far as the front fenders I may cut out all the old glass and foam as I did on the read clip, but may just vent it as I want to gain the weight on the front to balance the rear weight gain. I'm trying to maintain the 50 50 balance as much as possible, but with the break upgrade "13" Vette on the front I may have gained enought all ready,Those rotors and calipers are heavy!!!!! I want to finish the front hood and build the new Ferrari style headlights and bumper before I decide to mold it or not.
I worked on the front bumper and got the look I needed, now I just have to build the bumper metal structure underneath to mount it to I had to move the bumper up to allow the four 5x7 driving lights the vertical space they need, all the photo research I've done showed the bumper runs straight across not like other 308's with the curve at the ends.
This is what I'm trying to accomplish
The bumper I got from EVM Rob will work with some modifications, I hope they turned out ok!
[This message has been edited by dobie1 (edited 12-15-2014).]
Nice work, now get outta my head, it's almost scary to see you building what I see in my head for my 308, even worse you have a massive head start... Keep the updates coming.
FAR AND AWAY one of the most beautiful Ferrari designs ever built. I applaud you for doing such a good job so far with it and I hope to see it in reality at some point finished and painted. Beatiful car and work. Peace
Pete
------------------ "May the grins begin when you turn the key and hear the engine roar over your shoulder" ......Gall57 (slightly modified LOL)
Pete Matos A&N Precision Machine CNC Machining and prototyping Maryville, Tennessee
I haven't gotten very much done on the car body lately as I have wanted to get he big brake upgrade complete before I glass in the fenders tops. I went with Corvette 13" on the front and 12" back upgraded bigger booster and Corvette Master Cylinder I also added an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear brakes. The actual brake conversion went well but turned into a nightmare while adding in the adjustable proportioning valve when I found out that GM in all their wisdom mixed metric and standard fittings and hydraulic lines, try and find a fitting to join the two together all metric fittings are bubble joints and all standard are double flare. After a bunch of head scratching I was able to modify the 6mm on the bubble flaring tool with a 45 degree flare two use a standard flare fitting. I I plan on installing the front callipers and bench bleeding and installing the MC an bleed the lines tomorrow or the next day. Here are a few pictures of swap.
I have same c4 hd 13" rotors but with dual piston camaro calipers, I ran into issue at full turn the banjo bolt hits the shock even after relocating the shock further back, this summer I plan on changing to the 13" mustang rotors,, they are same thickness and diameter with a shorter hat to allow more clearance. It also should help with fitting the 13" on the rear also as the hat is way to deep on the c4hd to make work on the rear of mine , doesnt look like you had an issue at all Looks like a great project you got there ..
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87GTseries 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft) (series II swap in progress) 85GT Northstar/ 4t80e 86GT 3800 n/a---sold Northstar Rebuild
[This message has been edited by jb1 (edited 01-15-2015).]
Thanks for the input guys, to JB1 it is making contact with the banjo bolt but I haven't made any mods to the lower shock mounting point. I'll let you know how it turns out once I do the mod hopefully it will be ok. To leezard if only there was a build thread on Pennock's with the WRX rotors and calipers I probably would have gone that route. Also the wheels arrived I hope to get them soon and will post some pics, thanks.
I finally finished the brake upgrade everything turned out pretty good , it does appear that I will have move the bottom shock mount location as the two front banjo bolts do contact the shock.(see attached picture) I'm hoping that once the suspension is loaded and the car is back on the ground it may not, we will wait and see.
I've finally got the fenders glassed on the front clip and have been modifying the forward part of the of the head light area as the new Ferrari light buckets need a bit more space.
Well I got the lips built yesterday and installed them today on the fenders , when I take the clip off next I'll glass them from the under side at the same time I'll add a couple more layers of glass. I hope to start working on the front bumper steel frame over the weekend and install the glass bumper over the frame.
[This message has been edited by dobie1 (edited 01-23-2015).]
Some alignment of the hood and and securing of the lower portion of the fenders to the front hood and things are taking shape. I have to fill in on both sides of the head light bucket and vent . I'm rebuilding the front hood hinges as I do not like the way they are torquing the hinge and at the same time I will re-glue the inner Fiero hood panels and fibreglass top. Any one know what glue you are suppose to use on the Fiero panels?
Here is a sneak peek at the Ferrari head light buckets and aluminum fender vents as
Its sure nice having the finished Fender Vent and Head Light buckets to build the extensions to everything fits perfectly. I'll glass all the extensions in tomorrow, then start to finish the front bumper modification. I also moved the hood vents 4" to lineup with the fender vents, this is where the real Ferrari's are located. The finished look is making it all worth while , Enjoy!!
You have the vision, tenacity, energy and time that I remember having a "few", (like 20? ), years ago!
We are cheering you on and applauding your efforts thus far, what a humongous undertaking. You have met the challenge head on and are gaining ground, kudos to you!
Looking forward to every step you take and every improvement you make.
Hi Sage I'm glad to see your still around, you must be busy going through all the molds and stuff you brought down from Canada. Thanks for the kind words, being retired and having a understanding wife has allowed me to go at this full-time. Of course having Don to answer my build questions when I come up against something I haven't come across before helps to keep on schedule.
Wayne
[This message has been edited by dobie1 (edited 02-08-2015).]
Hi Bob Long time since we've heard from you, I'm looking forward to seeing more progress on your project. I hope you find some time and the weather improves soon!! My new wheels and tires I got from Leeezard should be here soon, they are going to look so sweet. Wayne
Hi Bloozberry Yes it will be a couple months of sanding to get it to primer. I have a couple more weeks of getting the front bumper finished and installed, then a few more days to fit the driving lights. Then I'll pull off the front clip and flip it upside down to cut out as much of the old 308 body and foam as I can, there will be a bunch of cleaning up of the mods I've made then I'll glass the two bodies together. Hopefully by that time the weather will have improved so I can flip it over and start sanding the outside. Stay tuned!! I'm loving your build though i'm subscribed!
Hi Bob Long time since we've heard from you, I'm looking forward to seeing more progress on your project. I hope you find some time and the weather improves soon!! My new wheels and tires I got from Leeezard should be here soon, they are going to look so sweet. Wayne
Always lurking, Wayne... Always lurking....
Those wheels should look fantastic. Get those pics up asap.
Some more progress this week but slow progress. I finished off glassing and adding the 45 degree top edges of the headlight vent extensions. then got work on the front bumper. The bumper turned out to be a lot of work due to a number of factors first was trying to make it fit and look like the 288 second and most important was that it was functional (could actually offer some protection)and thirdly I was using the steel from a used ready made 308 bumper that Don had given me. The biggest constraint I had was the thickness had to be no more than 2 1/2" thick to make room for the four 5x7 driving lights in the grill. Second,(hard to describe) the bumper actually has a 3/4" recess which allows it to sit 1/4" below the hight of the top of the front facia grill opening. Confused yet? Once it was built, because of the above constraints the steel had a wicked angle coming out of the bumper where it meets the plate that attach to the car. I will have to add some gusset supports to strengthen it due to the angle. Here are a few pics of the progress I still need to finish the turn signals and cleanup all the edges but it works and looks right.
I also needed to cut out the lower outside grill cheeks to 90 degrees for the driving light outer edges to fit properly as the real 288 was modified to fit the driving lights.
I was busy the last two days, I came up with a plan on how to beef up the bumper to give more strength.
Then I decided I needed to build the mounting system for he four driving lights
I was working with the turn signals housings, trying to mount them in the bumper. I'm close I but still need to play with with them. If I use some panel glue and mount the housing permanently it would be solve the problem. The lens are taken off with two screws on the front so bulb replacement wouldn't be a problem. I'm trying to figure out the negatives to this approach. Anybody have any thoughts on this.? I needed to do a trial fit with he driving lights mounted and the bumper installed to ensure there wasn't any conflict.
Here is a sneak peak at where I'm going with the build!!
And this is my inspiration !!!
[This message has been edited by dobie1 (edited 02-16-2015).]
Just a short update I finally finished the front bumper. The reason for the outside mounts was due to how much flex there was in the up/down movement. It is rock solid now. The two plates one on each side are for the 4 driving lights. With the clip off I welded up everything permanently, I'll start the build on my headlight buckets and facia next week then onto finishing the front clip.
), years ago! 
