The fenders in the kit are cut in a strange spot...definitely not where they should be cut. So I've now fiberglassed the fenders to the rear bumper so that I can make the full fender seamless like the real Aventador. I also don't plan on cutting the fender in the oem spot to separate it from the bumper....easier just to keep the fender and the bumper as a single piece
Make sure you grind down and add at least 1 layer, preferably 2 on the outside as well or you run a chance of a crack showing up later on.
I actually started the process by aligning and clamping the panels in place on the car, grinding them down and adding two layers of 1.5oz glass to the outside. Once that set, I was able to take the full bumper - fender setup off the car, flip it over and add four layers of glass (which is seen in the pic above).
I'm now working on getting the final alignment of the fender/bumper unit so I can install the bonding fasteners.
Slow week. Didn't get into the garage until today. I took some time to cut the fender wheel well lips to the correct thickness and then started to drill holes around the framing. The holes are required for securing the bonding fasteners that get adhered to the panels. Lots of holes to be drilled! For some reason, I can't seem to drill the holes using my plug in (corded) drills. Not sure why, but when using my cordless drill I can drill right through the metal quickly. When using one of my corded drills, the drill bit just spins on the metal and doesn't even scratch the surface. Even if I match the speed of cordless drill, they just doesn't seem to do anything!?! I'm at a loss as to why it would make a difference... And of course I only have two batteries for my cordless drill, so I can only drill so many holes at one time.
Slow week. Didn't get into the garage until today. I took some time to cut the fender wheel well lips to the correct thickness and then started to drill holes around the framing. The holes are required for securing the bonding fasteners that get adhered to the panels. Lots of holes to be drilled! For some reason, I can't seem to drill the holes using my plug in (corded) drills. Not sure why, but when using my cordless drill I can drill right through the metal quickly. When using one of my corded drills, the drill bit just spins on the metal and doesn't even scratch the surface. Even if I match the speed of cordless drill, they just doesn't seem to do anything!?! I'm at a loss as to why it would make a difference... And of course I only have two batteries for my cordless drill, so I can only drill so many holes at one time.
With the coilovers set for the correct tire to fender gap, there would have been possible interference with the rear frame rails. So....I have been forced to do a little modification to them. I notched them and added a 3/16" thick plate along the bottom. Driver's side is finished. I'll work on the passenger side later in the week.
Both rear frame rails have now been modified for the extra clearance...lots of wheel clearance now I'll install the fender/bumper unit tomorrow and check the fit between the wheels and the fenders. At some point I'll need to get the wheel alignment done as well. I've left the coilovers loosely bolted to the spindles, so right now the camber is off a bit.
Originally posted by Neils88: At some point I'll need to get the wheel alignment done as well. I've left the coilovers loosely bolted to the spindles, so right now the camber is off a bit.
It suddenly occurred to me that with 28" of rubber, even a small change in the camber will have a great effect on the alignment of the top of the wheel with respect to the fender. Since I'm trying to align the panels, this is probably a good time to have everything where it should be. I've adjusted the camber and toe of both rear wheels to as close to the final settings as I could. I'll need to do a final 4 wheel alignment later just to be sure. After installing the rear bumper/fender unit and adjusting the panels, the edge of the wheels are about 0.5" inset from fenders. This was my target...so I guess I'm pretty happy. I was actually worried that I was going to require extra wheel spacers...which would suck after having a custom suspension made...
Sometimes it seems like I jump around in my activities...but there is always a reason. So today I built the emergency door handle unit for the passenger side (driver's side was done previously). I need this, plus the main door latch unit (taken from a Santa Fe) installed inside the pillar before I get the panels put in place. Unfortunately, there isn't a easy way to install things after the panels are in place. The emergency door handle unit and lock are hidden under a cover plate and only needs to be accessed if the battery is dead, or the door popper fails. The door itself uses an electronic switch (oem Lamborghini) to trigger the popper rather than a mechanical cable. Inside the car, the release handle and door lock are mechanically connected so I don't get trapped if the battery dies.
I'm taking some time to build the air conveyors that are located just behind the rear side windows (these are the primary airflow paths for the engine intake). I've got the basic scoop fiberglassed for the driver's side conveyor, and the about 2/3 of the passenger side scoop glassed. They are tougher to build than I expected (I redesigned and rebuilt the first scoop three times...) I'll try to take some pics later.
Been away for a bit. Had to deal with a sick puppy for a week, and it kinda took the wind out of my sails...
I'm starting to get back to work now. Started by drilling the holes in the frame for some of the panel mounts. Then bonded the "bonding fasteners" to the panels using 3M Panel adhesive. Finally added a couple of layers of fiberglass to help stop the fasteners from popping off. Ran out of resin, so I'll carry on once I get a chance to pick up some more.
I received a majority of the front suspension today. 3.5" widetrack kit from Arraut Motorsports (375 lb springs, with adjustable shocks). I'm missing the 1.5" drop spindles though....they were ready and back from powder coating, but somehow didn't make it into the box....damn... I was hoping to get the front suspension installed this weekend, but obviously I'm stuck without the spindles. The coilovers would get me most of the way there, but the drop spindles should improve the geometry.
Taking a little bit more effort than I had planned to get the front suspension changed. I managed to get everything unbolted on the driver's side. Just need to heat up the upper control arm bushings to get the upper control arm removed. I also decided to order new ball joints, tie rods and swaybar link kits. The stuff on the car is basically original...time to change it all. I also noticed that I am missing one thing from the suspension widening kit....need extension pieces for the tie rods. I'll have to machine a couple of 3.5" extenders.
I had a really hard time getting the upper control arm off (still just working on the driver's side right now). Broke a socket trying to unbolt the securing bar. Fortunately there was access to the nut bar so I was able to heat the nuts up nice and hot. After that I was able to get it unbolted. I burned the bushings off allowing the control arm to be removed. The new widetrack upper and lower control arms have been installed, along with the coilover. The new ball joints, tie rods and sway bar links should be in this week.
Just received the 1.5" drop spindles and some tie rod extenders from Arraut Motorsports. I picked up the new tie rods earlier this week, and the new ball joints and sway bar links will be delivered tomorrow. Unfortunately I won't have time to install anything until the middle of next week.
Back to work today. I finally got the driver's side suspension put together. Everything fit well except the drop spindle....the upper tapered hole wasn't drilled deep enough for a stock upper ball joint. It took a bit of work to correct the problem but I got everything installed eventually. I'll contact Richard at Arraut Motorsports and make sure future spindles are drilled properly.
The wheel looks great installed. The panels are just sitting loosely in place, still in need of alignment and securing to the frame.
I had a much easier time today disassembling the front suspension on the passenger side. I've removed both control arms, shock, spring, sway bar link, spindle and tie rod ready for installation of the widetrack kit. ...of course things come off easier when you use a grinder with a cutoff disk instead of trying to unbolt everything...
I so wanted that wheel gap on mine, but it doesn't look like that's possible. I have that HF jack Guru has and I had to raise the suspension up an inch to get it out from under the cradle.
I so wanted that wheel gap on mine, but it doesn't look like that's possible. I have that HF jack Guru has and I had to raise the suspension up an inch to get it out from under the cradle.
Looks great, Neil...
Bob
Thanks Bob! I'll definitely be upgrading my jack. Mine is probably 25 years old.
Thanks Bob! I'll definitely be upgrading my jack. Mine is probably 25 years old.
Why can't you set yours up for a tighter gap?
The 308/Mera kits have very high wheel archs, similar to the actual 308. I can't get the body low enough or move the suspension high enough without dragging the frame on the ground. The only alternative would be to reshape the arch, but then it wouldn't look like a 308 anymore. I already have 18" wheels, so i will go to a taller tire to make up some of the room.
The 308/Mera kits have very high wheel archs, similar to the actual 308. I can't get the body low enough or move the suspension high enough without dragging the frame on the ground. The only alternative would be to reshape the arch, but then it wouldn't look like a 308 anymore. I already have 18" wheels, so i will go to a taller tire to make up some of the room.
Bob
Ok...I understand now. When I set the body kit on the Fiero, I tried to set it as low as possible (you can see from how much height I removed above the dash. This made sure that I could get a full 5" of clearance under the car. The lowest points on my car are the side rocker structures, and the suspension (coilovers at each corner) gets set so the rockers are at the OEM Aventador height. This leaves me with about 1.5" around the tires....since I'm using basically the same OEM tires/rims that are used by Lamborghini. The tough part with the suspension comes from using 19"/20" rims front/rear respectively. This raises the car 1.5" - 2" over the stock Fiero 14" rims. That's a lot of extra height to have to deal with when you are trying drop everything a few inches to begin with. That's why I needed the drop spindles in the front and raised towers in the rear in addition to using coilovers.
Not too much done today. I managed to install the new lower control arm and coilover. Unfortunately, I broke my ratchet installing the lower ball joint (too much force with the press fit clamp). I really should invest in a few more ratchets. I always get stuff with lifetime warranties...but it still takes time to go out and get the replacements.
I've completed the front suspension. Just need to do an alignment....I'll get to that eventually. It's great to finally have the car sitting on all four wheels.
I am doing a little bit of finish welding for the roof structure (adjusting a cross beam and adding some curvature to the sides to match the curved oem door glass). Once I get this done then I will be able to paint everything and then permanently install the fiberglass roof panel.
Finished all the extra welding on the roof structure and managed to get it all painted today. I also adjusted the upper door openings to properly fit the OEM door glass seals.
(bad picture...but shows the fit of the upper door seal)
I have now permanently installed the roof panel to the frame. I'm using a urethane adhesive that ensures it is properly secure, while allowing some flexibility for movement and expansion. This also ensures critical areas are sealed.
A depressing day on the car yesterday....I needed to adjust the front coilover height. I wanted to add an inch on the passenger side (I will need a little extra on the driver's side too). Unfortunately, even with the weight off the front end, my coilover tool doesn't seem to want to do it's job (it appears to be slightly too small to work properly) so I needed to completely disassemble the suspension in order to change the height. It took quite a while to get it all apart, but I finally made the adjustment. Got everything put back together and then discovered that the ride height hadn't changed any... Turns out that when I measured it (after initially installing the suspension, wheel and fender), something was interfering and it wasn't actually sitting properly on the spring. Everything is clear now and sitting correctly...but I'll have to take everything apart again and set the height properly.
Well after making a new coilover wrench that works great, I almost got everything to the right height but now have to deal with some stripped upper ball joint nuts. I had been fiddling around with the front suspension and had everything apart a few times. Unfortunately, in the process the nuts decided to commit suicide. Of course they are an annoying size to get locally...so I had to order them. I probably will take a break until those come in.
And of course I only have two batteries for my cordless drill, so I can only drill so many holes at one time.
I'll install the fender/bumper unit tomorrow and check the fit between the wheels and the fenders. At some point I'll need to get the wheel alignment done as well. I've left the coilovers loosely bolted to the spindles, so right now the camber is off a bit.
I've adjusted the camber and toe of both rear wheels to as close to the final settings as I could. I'll need to do a final 4 wheel alignment later just to be sure. After installing the rear bumper/fender unit and adjusting the panels, the edge of the wheels are about 0.5" inset from fenders. This was my target...so I guess I'm pretty happy. 
(need an emoji of sitting back in a lounge car sipping a beer) 
I was hoping to get the front suspension installed this weekend, but obviously I'm stuck without the spindles. The coilovers would get me most of the way there, but the drop spindles should improve the geometry.
Turns out that when I measured it (after initially installing the suspension, wheel and fender), something was interfering and it wasn't actually sitting properly on the spring. 
)
